Explorer Sian embarked on a four-day, self-guided hike to visit the Incan ruins of Choquequirao near Cusco in the Peruvian Andes. Only accessible on foot, the awe-inspiring site is incredibly well preserved and largely unvisited by crowds that flock to nearby Machu Picchu.

Jump to Section

Quick Overview

The Choquequirao Trek is a 42km out-and-back trail with over 3,000m descent and 3,000m ascent over 3-5 days. The Grade 5 hike is located around 4.5 hours from Cusco, Peru.

 

View of the main plaza and upper plaza behind

About Choquequirao

Choquequirao is often called the sister site to the famous Machu Picchu, and before I arrived in Peru, I’d never heard of it. It seems many hiking enthusiasts stumble upon Choquequirao the same way.

I’d originally wanted to hike to Machu Picchu along the Salcantay Trek, but as I made my way to Cusco along the backpacker’s route, I heard other travellers recount their Salcantay experience and ‘crowds’ and ‘tequila in water pistols’ were two experiences I wasn’t looking for.

After some Googling, I discovered Choquequirao, an Incan site larger than Machu Picchu and so remote that most of the site hasn’t been excavated.

 

Plenty of switchbacks

 

It’s actually possible to trek all the way from Choquequirao to Machu Picchu over a remote seven-day adventure, however I chose to do the four-day out-and-back option since we were carrying all our gear and going without a guide.

Choquequirao History

Choquequirao has an incredibly rich history that I won’t attempt to cover in detail here, but know this – there’s zero information en route. If you’re interested in history, make sure you do your research before you depart.

It’s widely believed that Choquequirao was built in the 15th century by the Incas. In its prime, Choquequirao was a bustling citadel, with places of worship, abundant terraces for agriculture, warehouses, houses and mansions, and a place of political, economic, and social importance.

 

Me at the top of the sacred platform in the background

How to Get to Choquequirao

By Bus

From Cusco, it’s a four-hour bus ride and a 30-minute taxi to the trailhead. You’ll need to go to Terminal Terrestre, the main bus terminal in Cusco, and look for buses going towards Abancay. It’s important that when you purchase your ticket, you ask them if they can stop at the turn-off to Cachora to drop you off.

We missed this step, and instead had to spend an extra night in Abancay and backtrack the next day. We ended up with Turismo Ampay, who happily pulled over for us. The ticket costs around 50 soles.

Once you arrive at the turn off to Cachora, there should be a taxi waiting as they expect travellers. Ask them to take you to Cachora to spend the night or straight to the trailhead to get walking. The taxi cost 80 soles for the two of us.

Getting back to Cusco we expected to do the same in reverse, however Inti (the Inca God of the sun) must have been looking out for us, because the moment we finished the hike and sat down in the dirt to wait for – well, we weren’t sure – a minibus arrived, dropping off a small tour group and a guide.

The driver opened the door, looked at us and said ‘Cusco?’. For 50 soles each, we had a comfy, direct ride back. Just make sure you’re up early. We were back at the trailhead at 9am that morning.

 

Entering the archaological area of Choquequirao

Skill Level

Advanced

Choquequirao is considered advanced due to the sheer amount of ascent and descent over a short period of time. The trail itself isn’t challenging. There’s no climbing or specialist equipment required, and you won’t get lost. It’s just gruelling. You’re also at altitude. The highest point is just over 3,000m, which isn’t crazy, but sea level dwellers will feel it.

Water access isn’t a problem as there are small shops selling water and Powerade if you don’t have your own filtration system.

Get ready for some altitude

Make sure to take rests

Essential Gear for Choquequirao

We rented all our gear in Cusco as we didn’t have our tent and usual supplies with us. There are a few stores, but we went to Speedy Gonzalo Camping Equipment, and the gear was decent quality and price. You can also do this hike without bringing a tent! There are two towns along the way that offer lodgings, Chiquisca and Marampata. You’d have to adjust your route to only stay in these towns, but it’s possible.

This was our essential packing list for Choquequirao:

  • Tent
  • Sleeping mat 
  • Sleeping bag (0 degree is fine as it’s subtropical, unlike other areas of the Andes)
  • Hiking pack
  • Hiking shoes
  • Hat
  • Sunscreen
  • Water filter
  • Cash! You’ll need it for any purchases, including your entrance ticket to the site, which is 60 soles
  • Passports – Officials wanted to see ours at the trailhead
  • Portable charger pack
  • Trekking poles – These were a total knee and ankle saver for me
  • Towel – You can take a cold shower in the towns
  • We brought food that didn’t require cooking, but up to you on this one

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

 

Oh, and twiggy sticks

What It’s Like to Hike to Choquequirao

Day 1 – Capuliyoc to Santa Rosa Baja

Distance: 11.5km
Descent: 1,500m
Gain: 830m
Duration: 7 hours
Navigation: AllTrails Segment 1 Choquequirao

After our blunder with the bus, we needed to get to the trailhead from Abancay on day one, and it was 11am before we actually started walking. At the trailhead, there’s a little office where you can buy your ticket to the site for 60 soles.

Keep this safe because if you lose this, they won’t let you look around the ruins when you arrive. If the office is closed, don’t worry, you can buy them from the ranger on site.

This walk is unique as you can see the entire trail and ruins on the mountain opposite (if you know where to look) from the get-go. We were blessed with incredible weather. The sun lit up the Apurimac canyon and river below and roasted the exposed rocky path ahead of us. The cacti didn’t provide much reprieve from the sun. If you can start much earlier than we did, I highly recommend it.

 

View of the bridge as we began to ascend up the other side

 

Other than a couple of mules hauling palettes of Coca-Cola and other essentials down to the remote villages, we didn’t pass any other hikers. It took us four hours walking downhill to reach the first town, Chiquisca. The heat was zapping me, and as we descended on Chiquisca, a pool appeared like an oasis below.

Arriving in town, we realised it was part of some sort of camp, and if it hadn’t been closed, I would’ve gladly offered up my soles for a dip. If you want to hike slower, you can stay in Chiquisca as your first night, but after a break and some lunch, we pushed on to Santa Rosa Baja.

 

Donkeys and mules at Chiquisca having a break

 

The next 5km took us three hours. We reached the bottom of the canyon quite quickly and crossed over the raging Apurimac River on the suspension bridge. Then it was up, up, up along a series of endless switchbacks. On this side of the canyon, there’s more vegetation, so it was a nice change of scenery. Alarmingly, it was nearly dark and we still hadn’t reached camp, but we carried on and made it just as we turned our head torches on.

We knocked on the owner’s cabin, paid our five soles each for camping, and bought some Gatorades from her. There’s a cold shower, toilet, somewhere to fill up water, and massive avocado trees and papayas surrounding the lush site.

Day 2 – Santa Rosa Baja to Choquequirao, then back to Marampata

Distance: 15km
Descent: Almost none today!
Gain: 1,000m
Duration: 10 hours
Navigation: AllTrails Segment 2 Choquequirao will take you to the ruins, then just backtrack to Marampata

Keen to avoid the heat today, we got up at 5.30am and were walking an hour later. With fresh legs, the ascent was much easier and we crested the top of the incline by 10.30am, arriving in Marampata. Marampata is a proper little village with lots of locals living, farming, and hosting travellers up here in the clouds. We picked a campsite with grassy terraces and an incredible view of the mountains across from us, and set up camp for ten soles.

 

Campsite in Marampta

 

After a little break, we continued on to Choquequirao, practically bounding there free from the weight of our packs. It took us around two hours to reach the ruins, and we explored them for an additional two hours before heading back to Marampata for the night.

On our journey to the Incan ruins, we were accompanied by two shepherds walking with a pig. It dawned on me that this pig was either dinner or a sacrificial offering (we’d already seen a llama meet this fate). We never did see the pig again, so I’m unsure of her destiny, but either way, I figured it was a pretty nice place to walk the green mile.

Experiencing the ruins of Choquequirao is hard to describe. The site is immense and lost to time, overgrown and swallowed up by the mountain like lost cities in fairytales.

The main plaza of Choquequirao

View across the valley of the lower terraces of Choquequirao

One of my favourite parts was the Llama Terraces, which are around a 20-minute walk from the main square. The Inca built llama shapes into the stone walls, thought to be an offering to the sun God in place of real llamas.

While we marvelled at the sight and wandered around freely, we only saw about six other people in the two hours we were there, plus one lone ranger.

 

The Llama terraces

Day 3 – Marampata to Chiquisca

Distance: 8km
Descent: 1,500m
Gain: 400m
Duration: 8 hours

Up bright and early again this day, we started our journey back the way we came. We stopped at Santa Rosa Baja to make some avocado rolls and play with the little girl who lived there, then carried on all the way back down the river. Sweaty from the humid air, we opted to swim in the calm river eddy. The river itself is violently rapid, so stay clear of the main current unless you want to end up in the next village.

 

Cooling off in the river before the final ascent

 

The 20 midge bites I left with were fair payment for the healing effects of the cool water on my aching body. Feeling refreshed, we started our ascent to Chiquisca, which was a hard and hot climb.

We paid six soles to set up camp, which we had all to ourselves, bought some Oreos from the snack shop, and enjoyed our last night immersed in the mysteries of the Incan empire.

Day 4 – Chiquisca to Capuliyoc

Distance: 7.5km
Descent: 0m
Gain: 1,100m
Duration: 4 hours

Our earliest morning yet, we were on the trail by 5am, partly due to wanting to avoid the sun on the most exposed section of the incline, and also thanks to the rooster that decided 2am was a good time to sound the alarm.

 

Isaac nearly back up the top

 

As the darkness faded, peachy pink fairy floss clouds swirled above us, protecting us from the sun until it broke through at 9am, exactly when we reached the end of the trail. Looking back now across the canyon, we could see each town we’d stayed at, and off in the distance, parts of Choquequirao jutting out from the mist and trees.

Tips for Hiking Choquequirao

Going alone?

  • You can definitely do this route without a guide, there’s only one track and villages along the way should you need assistance
  • You can go with a tour group, but it’s expensive. They will, however, have a mule to carry your pack, which would make things a lot easier

 

Me wishing we had mules to carry our gear

Hiking Choquequirao FAQs

How long is the Choquequirao Trek?

The Choquequirao Trek covers 42km, out-and-back, over 3-5 days.

How difficult is the Choquequirao Trek?

The Choquequirao Trek is best for advanced hikers, particularly if you’re planning on walking it unguided, as there’s altitude to deal with, as well as a decent amount of elevation gain and descent.

Is there a guided version of the Choquequirao Trek?

Yes, there are tour groups that hike the Choquequirao Trek, which often have a mule to help carry your gear. However, they can be expensive.

Challenge Yourself Abroad on More Multi-Day Hikes

This piece was brought to you by a real living human who felt the wind in their hair and described their adventure in their own words. This is because we rate authenticity and the sharing of great experiences in the natural world – it’s all part of our ethos here at We Are Explorers. You can read more about it in our Editorial Standards.