Are you a beginner climber in Queensland? We’ve searched high and, well, higher, for the best rock climbs for beginners in Southeast Queensland.

Rock climbing isn’t always about pushing grades. Sometimes, the magic of being outside is enough, moving across incredible terrain to take in the view from the top!

Whether you’re a beginner, or someone looking for a relaxing day in the mountains, you’ve got to add this selection of South East Queensland’s best easy, classic climbs to your list! This diverse guide celebrates five lines with very different merits – all of which culminate in spectacular days out!

1. Zeitgeist

Location: Mt Tibrogargan
Climbing grade: 17
Type: Sport

Spanning three pitches and 115m, Mt Tibrogargan’s Zeitgeist will always have a special place in my heart as my first ever multi-pitch. The iconic two-star route is perfect for beginners looking to hone their skills, and with enjoyable climbing and beautiful views across the Sunshine Coast, it’s well worth revisiting time and again.

After the vertical crux pitch (17), cruise up two pitches of classic Tibro slab (13 and 15). An easy scramble up to the mountain’s Cave Three offers a little taste of adventure.

Hot Tip: Due to the route’s popularity, a descent of Zeitgeist by rappel may not be possible. Instead, head down Caves Route from Cave Three. The route consists of easy scrambling with optional rappelling through steeper sections. Ensure you’re familiar with Caves Route before starting your descent to avoid going off-route.

Essential Gear

  • 12 quickdraws (including some extenders to be used at the leader’s discretion). 
  • Gear for anchors
  • Rappelling gear

Read more: How To Choose Beginner Rock Climbing Gear

2. 2 for Tea

Location: Brooyar State Forest
Climbing grade: 14
Type: Sport

Eagle’s Nest is a large crag, offering a number of long and aesthetic sandstone routes with sprawling, vertiginous views of Brooyar State Forest. 2 for Tea is the easiest of these, a 35m jug haul that goes at grade 14.

There’s a consensus that the headwall may be a bit stiff for the grade, but the route is fully bolted for a top-belay setup, so it can be climbed on top rope if you’re still building your confidence as a lead climber.

Read more: Rock Climbing Slang And How To Use It

Hot Tip: Bring some shoes with you when you climb the route so that you’re comfortable when you’re walking the bush track back to the bottom of the wall.

Essential Gear

  • 10 quickdraws
  • Gear for top anchors, including large carabiners

3. Crap

Location: Kangaroo Point
Climbing grade: 14
Type: Sport

In my opinion, Kangaroo Point’s Crap is underrated, perhaps because of its slightly out-of-the-way location at the crag’s Left Main Wall. Unlike many of KP’s easier routes, Crap is free of the treacherous ledges that can psych out a beginner leader.

Contrary to its name, the route offers secure climbing with the added bonus of an inner-city location. When you reach the top, turn around and enjoy views of the Brisbane River and the CBD, especially beautiful at night, when floodlights illuminate the cliffs.

Essential Gear

  • 7 quickdraws
  • Head torch if climbing at night

 

4. Icehouse

Location: Mt Ngungun
Climbing grade: 15
Type: Trad/top rope

This Mt Ngungun mega classic is unforgettable! Enjoy 45m of airy 3-star climbing on jugs to top out on the summit and take in spectacular views of the Glasshouse Mountains, the Sunshine Coast and Moreton Island.

Icehouse is not a bolted sport route; there are plenty of gear placements, but not all of them are obvious, making it a heady and challenging lead for beginner trad climbers.

If trad climbing isn’t your speed, no worries! Bolted anchors make for an easy top belay setup, so no one has to miss out on the experience of climbing Icehouse.

Hot Tip: It may be advisable to set up a hand line when accessing the top anchor, as it’s located on a ledge at the summit. At the end of the day, rappel off the summit or walk down the hiking track.

Essential Gear

  • Lots of trad gear if you intend to lead the route
  • Gear for top anchors

 

5. Traxion Action

Location: Mt Tibrogargan
Climbing grade: 17
Type: Sport/mixed

Traxion Action is a 212m route on Mt Tibrogargan that offers a great entry into adventure climbing. Start off on the crux pitch (17), then cop a bit of bush bashing and some tricky route finding on pitch two (10). From there, it’s smooth sailing up stunningly exposed pitches three to seven (grades 12-15).

Comfortable belays provide adequate lunch stops if you’d like to make a day of it. Set up a rappel at the top of pitch seven (the second last pitch) if you’d like to avoid a pitch of mixed climbing.

Otherwise, continue through the last pitch (15) to the summit, choosing your final belay carefully as there are no bolted anchors.

Hot Tip: This route is relatively new, so be aware of loose rock.

Essential Gear

  • 10 quickdraws plus a couple of extenders
  • If you intend to climb the final pitch, a couple of additional slings are necessary
  • Head torch, in case it becomes a long day

 

 

Remember, always wear a helmet when climbing outdoors, and do your research to ensure you’re prepared with the skills you need to tackle your adventure! Happy climbing!