Walking the Lycian Way – Does Türkiye Have the World’s Best Coastal Thru-hike?

On this trail it’s your choice! Wild camp from sea to summit or ritz it up in homesteads – this trail has something for everyone. 

Quick Overview

The Lycian Way is an approximately 450km point-to-point thru-hike that spans 24 to 30 days from Oludeniz to the town of Geyikbayiri, outside Antalya, in Türkiye. The trail is intermediate to advanced, with options to wild-camp or stay in pansiyons (homesteads) along the way. Many people walk sections rather than the whole thing – I tackled about 350km of it!

The Lycian Way Facts

Distance: 450km – 700km
Duration: 24 – 30 days
Elevation gain: 24,400m
Nearest town: Oludeniz (start), Geyikbayiri (end)

About the Lycian Way

Pack your bathers, puffer jackets, and history books for an extended tramp along Turkey’s coastline, via the spectacular Taurus Mountain range. The walk traces historical Lycian and Roman ruins and can be completed in its entirety in 24 to 30 days. You’ll encounter jagged limestone cliffs, crystal blue waters, and Turkish hospitality that’ll make you feel at home. 

Typically walked in spring (April – June) and autumn (September – November), hikers trek the Lycian Way for its scenic beauty, long-distance challenge, and historical significance. 

The walk is way-marked and maintained by the non-profit Culture Routes Society. While this mostly kept me on trail, a GPS app is critical to getting where you need to be. I downloaded my path through Wikiloc – there are guidebooks and paid GPS route options as well.

A quaint village while descending to Aperlai

The Lycian Way History

While I walked this route for its elite scenery, the path was originally paved by English-Turkish historian Kate Clow in the 1990s in an attempt to retrace Lycian history. 

Consequently, many people who walk the Lycian Way do so for heritage reasons. This means you’ll meet a diverse range of walkers on trail, as the trek winds its way through UNESCO world heritage sites, such as Olympos, Patara, and the impressive Myra ruins. 

How to Get to the Lycian Way

Most hikers begin their walk at the official trail head in Oludeniz. The trail can also be walked in reverse, from east to west. This makes particular sense for those who fly into Antalya.

By Bus from Dalaman Airport

The closest airport to the official starting point In Oludeniz is Dalaman. From here, many hikers take a bus to Fethiye, where they gather supplies and information from fellow hikers.

From Fethiye I reached the official trailhead via minibus (dolmus). It costs about 80 Turkish lira (paid by card), and I caught it from just outside the main bus station in Fethiye. 

The bus will have a sign saying ‘Oludeniz’ on it; be sure to flag it down and tell the bus driver to stop when you’re close! Locals were very friendly and helpful in showing me where to go – so if you get stuck, ask!

Where to Stay Along the Lycian Way

The route can be entirely wild camped or you can stay in pansiyons. There is a section on the trail with no accommodation between Demre and Finike, walkers without a tent can opt to take a half hour bus between these cities.

During my walk, I wild-camped and also stayed in a few pansiyons, none of which I pre-booked. The rooms were clean, cosy, and typically came with a delicious traditional Turkish breakfast the following morning. 

If you’re walking in peak season, check towns like Cirali and Adrasan ahead of time; these vacation towns book out in peak season.

Read more: 10 Tips on How To Leave No Trace in Our Wild Places

A town mosque with mountain views was a great source of fresh water

Skill Level

Intermediate to Advanced

With days ranging from 12km to 28km, including some serious elevation, the Lycian Way will have you huffing, puffing and cursing the sometimes unclear way. On the flipside, there are also days which are relatively flat, comfortable, and serene.

Previous hiking experience is recommended, with parts of the walk requiring careful planning. Towards the eastern end there are intense days of over 1000m elevation gain and over 20km travelled. 

Most people with good fitness can walk this route, but don’t underestimate the trail; I met many who were walking the Lycian Way after completing the Camino and said the Lycian Way had been significantly harder.

Read more: Navigating With a Map & Compass

This walk does cross through farmland, meaning at some point you’ll come across barking dogs and have to remain calm and hold your ground (keep some hiking poles handy). While most dogs are friendly, this can add an additional mental challenge to your walk.

Lycian Way Trip Costs

The cost to walk the Lycian Way can look entirely different depending on where you choose to stay. For wild-campers, budget around $30 a day for food, supplies and the odd pansiyon. For those staying in accommodation, budget around $80 a day. 

Essential Gear for the Lycian Way

For Everyone

• Hiking poles – don’t leave home without these
• Water filter – clean springs and mosques are along the route; however, some parts have wells that will require filtering
• Sunscreen and a hat
• All-weather clothes, warm for nights in mountains and light for hot days and beach swims

For the Wild Campers

• 3-season tent
• Sleeping mat
• Sleeping bag (rated to 0 degrees)
• Stove and burner
• Headtorch

What It’s Like to Hike the Lycian Way

For me, walking the Lycian Way meant getting a bit lost in rural Turkish life. Think goat trails, small villages, and traditional food on a quiet path. I walked in the shoulder season and had days where I didn’t see anybody.

On the way, I found myself wandering through some of the best mountain and coastal views I’ve ever seen, followed by busy greenhouse sections where I was barked at by dogs. 

Importantly, you don’t have to walk all of it – the way is very customisable and can change daily. At times I found myself thinking, ‘I should have taken other walkers’ advice and skipped this bit!’ Nevertheless, I walked a pretty direct route. For a full overview, check out this great page.

The trail can be broken into eight sections, starting with four breathtaking days of undulating coastal climbing that diverts into an expansive delta. Walkers tramp inland mountains, followed by sublime coast beyond the seaside town of Kas. 

There’s a remote mountain section between Demre and Finike. The most popular section passes spectacular islands and a famous lighthouse, before a final push through the walk’s tallest mountains brings you home.

The author on Section 5 – Demre to Finike

Section 1 – Oludeniz to Letoon

Distance: 60km
Time: 4 days

From day one the walk served up crisp Mediterranean seas and rugged mountains, which were a perfect tasting plate of the extended trek to come. 

I averaged about 16km a day in this section, including constant elevation gain and descent between towns. This was also a great section to enjoy a cooked lunch or dinner before setting up camp just out of town. Look out for one epic campsite just outside of Alinca on a cliff’s edge. 

Alinca to Bel (Day 3) was the best of the lot, but be careful in the wet – there are some steep drop-offs. Also watch out for goats above that might be kicking rocks down. I felt like Indiana Jones weaving between tumbling stones (but definitely didn’t look as cool).

Section 2 – Letoon to Kalkan

Distance: 60km
Time: 3 days

Being brutally honest; while I walked the majority of section two, it was easily my least favourite. This is because the region is a busy, endless sprawl of greenhouses in the midst of a delta. Many walkers opt to skip it entirely.

There are famous UNESCO ruins, particularly in Patara, so if that’s your shtick, walk right ahead. If you’re a nature enthusiast like me, don’t let your ego stop you from catching a ride from Letoon to Kalkan. 

I initially planned to walk every kilometre of the way, hence my venturing into this section, but was barked out of town by some angry dogs. 

There are some nicer moments, particularly towards the back end, like the coastal route from Patara to Kalkan. This can be a little tricky and technical, so for those walking, be prepared to add on some extra hours to do this day – you’ll be rewarded with the lovely coastal town of Kalkan at day’s end. 

Greenhouse sprawl in the delta

Section 3 – Kalkan to Kas

Distance: 55km
Time: 3 – 4 days

Most walkers are keen to return to the mountains following the Letoon to Kalkan section. I was a bit turned off by the aforementioned dogs, so I decided to hitchhike to Kas and walk part of this section in reverse. For those going straight through, once out of Kalkan, expect quaint Turkish villages and peaceful rolling hills. 

The stretch between Gokecoren and Cukurbag was a long one, with high elevation and descent.

All worth it for the legendary postcard-like sunset viewing as you descend down from Cukurbag into Kas. If you want to take a night off, you can opt to take a bus from Cukurbag into Kas. 

Up to this point of the walk, this is the most remote section, so be sure to plan your food and water refuels between towns.

Section 4 – Kas to Demre

Distance: 61km
Time: 3 – 4 days

If cuddling coastlines and soul-cleansing swims are what you’re after, then this is the section for you. I enjoyed plummeting into refreshingly cold Mediterranean water at the end of every day – often with my tent parked directly alongside. 

While I felt this section was more cruisy than others, don’t be fooled by a low elevation profile, as one constantly ascends and descends while traversing the coast.

I found water sometimes hard to come by, so carry a bit more than you need, particularly in the first half of this part. Between Limanagzi and Bogazcik, look out for a little caravan along the beach serving cold peach juice. I think about that juice often. Thirst quenched.

There are also some cool ruins in Aperlai, which was a significant port during the time of the Lycians.

Section 5 – Demre to Finike

Distance: 44km
Time: 3 days

A bit of a notorious section in Lycian Way Facebook groups, Demre to Finike has no accommodation options and often limited water. For me, this part felt more like hiking in Australia, where you have to be self-reliant for food, water, and shelter. 

I met one older Australian who decided to just walk this whole section in one day because he didn’t have a tent. I really don’t recommend this; I just thought it was pretty legendary.

Expect to grind it out with big back-to-back elevation days but be rewarded as it feels remote and special. There were some beautiful scree-drenched grass plains, where I found my favourite campsite of the trip.

Some hikers choose to take a half hour bus between the two towns.

Section 6 – Finike to Cirali

Distance: 65km
Time: 3 days

The first day of this section is 30km along the road through the greenhouses. After section two, I learnt my lesson and took a taxi from Finike to Karaoz.

From here, the following days averaged around 18km with some elevation. With strong hiking legs I found I sped through this section quite quickly – aside from slowing down for some flash flooding in the town of Cirali. 

Walking days will end in the popular tourist towns of Andrasan and Cirali. This was a great chance to enjoy some tasty Turkish food and a pansiyon for comfort.

Hot tip (literally) – outside of Cirali there are rocks with flames protruding out; they have been burning for thousands of years. Grab some marshmallows in town and head on up around sunset for an ultra-rare experience.

Section 7 – Cirali to Goynuk Yayla

Distance: 68km (costal path)
Time: 3 days

Decision time! Are you a beach person or a mountain person? 

Based on choosing the coastal route, I would have to say I’m a beach person. This stretch took me across some striking black-sand bays in a day and a half before cutting back into the mountains via some elevation to reach Goynuk Yayla. This is where the trail rejoins with the mountain route.

Having already been blessed with my amazing coastline, this route didn’t stand out massively – perhaps spoiled by a forecast of five days of downpours. Along with some other hikers I smashed through this part, averaging just over 20km days to begin the big dance back to Antalya in the final section.

In the shoulder season, it appeared accommodation options were quite limited, so do keep that in mind, particularly at Goynuk Yayla.

Shelter after a wet 22km

Section 8 – Goynuk Yayla – Geyikbayiri

Distance: 56km
Time: 3 days

At times on the trail, I didn’t think I would make it to the end, but despite the rain in this section, it felt like a homecoming!

This remote, mountainous region was my favourite of the entire trek. It had immense variety, from boulder hopping down Goynuck Canyon to mountain passes with over 1000-metre elevation days – it was the most breathtaking part of my walk.

The final day into Geyikbayiri was sun-soaked and topped off by a burrito from a caravan at the official end of the hike. Legendary!

This region was remote, with steep drop-offs and higher altitude. Be prepared to carry 3 days worth of food, and while accommodation options are available, you might have to do your research. There was even some April snow for me.

The official end of the Lycian Way

Tips For Hiking the Lycian Way

• Cash is king out on the way. For food, accommodation, and supplies, it’s mandatory. ATMs are available on the trail but can be sporadic. 
• Hiking poles are a lifesaver! For stability on steep trails but also as a barrier between you and potentially angry dogs.
• Hitchhiking was fairly easy and safe. I used it to get off trail and skip some sections. I waited a maximum of 10 minutes for a ride – including one stretch on a tractor. Of course, always keep your traveller’s sixth sense about you.