Nothing’s better for your climbing than a few days camping out at the crag. If you’re in or around Brisbane, Saphira knows just the place where you can level up on some real rock routes with some…interesting names – Brooyar State Forest.
Brooyar State Forest
Brooyar State Forest is a 2.5 hour drive north of Brisbane, near Gympie. It features 10+ crags suitable for beginner to intermediate/advanced (13-25) lead climbers. Trad climbers may also find their fix here but as I don’t currently trad climb, I can’t advise on good crags or routes for this type of climbing.
Brooyar features some stellar views, particularly from Point Pure, which is also a popular abseiling spot.
Note: This article is aimed at experienced climbers or those going with them. Rock climbing can be dangerous if done incorrectly so don’t head out without proper instruction and the skills required. New to rock climbing? Here’s how to get started.
Camping at Brooyar State Forest
Glastonbury Creek camping area is a large and pretty campground with toilets (how luxurious!) It’s around $6 a night through the Queensland National Parks Booking Service and fits up to 120 Explorers. Make sure you BYO firewood (and marshmallows) for the designated fire pits.
If you’re overcome with the sudden need to climb, Hungry Jacks, Home Of The Whopper, is just across the creek to satisfy you (grades 15-21). Make sure to think carefully about the safest way to belay from some of the routes here! To get to the crag you are crossing private property. Be respectful, pack out your rubbish, and say ‘Hi’ if the (friendly) owner comes by!
The most popular crags are Point Pure, Black Stump Buttresses, and Eagle’s Nest. Point Pure lookout is the main spot to park, and it puts you close to both the Point Pure crag and Eagle’s Nest crag (back a little towards the campground from where you parked).
Black Stump Buttresses are another 600m on the road, marked by the burnt black tree stump (grades 13-25). Park appropriately for this crag (i.e. don’t block the road).
Detailed info on approach and climbs from the South East Queensland Climbing Guidebook 2018 Edition.
Great practice here at some longer climbs, even at beginner grade levels. I would recommend Coco Pops (15, and 30m!), Cold Fusion (16, and 25m!), and The Great Devoid (22). Super easy access, central location.
Eagle’s Nest Crag
Eagle’s Nest is beautiful! It’s got some absolute classics but you’ll need to make sure you have enough quickdraws for some of these climbs! Beginners should try Miss Kandy Kane (15), Miss Manners (15), The Pioneer (16, 40m!), Free Range Heggs (17), Send me an Angel (17, 40m!) and 2,4,5 T (17, 42m!).
Intermediates climbers can go for Prima Diva (18), Celluloid Hero (21), Johnny Gun (22) and Blinky Bill’s American Breakfast (23) and Fatman Scoop (23).
Advanced climbers: try Central to Blackheath (24), The Great Knut (25) and The Time is Right (26). Eagle’s Nest is the site of my first and only ground fall lead climbing, so I’m obliged to advocate especially safe climbing here!
Black Stump Buttresses Crag
If you’re here, you’re probably going to want to climb My Brother’s Crack Whore Girlfriend (15) just to say you’ve done it. Sun Chaser (16), The Enticer (17), Annabelistic, (18), Beyond The Black Stump (19), Dreamcatcher (20) and Little Wednesday (25) are all popular climbs here and form a nice climbing progression in grades.
Hammerhead Rock is an aesthetically pleasing crag which may be a bit quieter for you and your crew, though the climbs are only up to around 10m and only go up to a grade 20. Watch out for wasp nests in some of the holds!
Most of all, have fun and be safe!
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