9 Things You Oughta Know Before Walking Tasmania’s Western Arthurs Range

Local hiker Ben Wells has spent years exploring Tasmania’s most rugged terrain. He shared with us a comprehensive guide to the Western Arthurs Range – home to some of the hardest hiking in Australia – so that you can tackle it the right way.

We acknowledge that this is the traditional homeland of the South West Nation of tribes. We pay respect to Elders, past, present and emerging.

The Western Arthurs is an extremely rugged mountain range located deep in the south west of Tasmania. The 18km long ridgeline is home to no less than 20 peaks over 1000m and some two dozen alpine lakes nestled in the steep valleys between. 

The area has long been renowned for its wild beauty, perhaps best known to the broader public through the iconic image of pandani overlooking Lake Oberon by late photographer Peter Dombrovskis.

Pandani overlooking Lake Oberon in the same location as Peter Dombrovskis’s famous photo

Once the domain of only the toughest and most determined bushwalkers, the Western Arthurs has become increasingly popular in recent years, with hikers the world over drawn to its magnificent quartzite peaks, glaciated lake bowls, and staggering views into Tasmania’s remote South West Wilderness. 

Read more: A Solo Journey Across The Western Arthurs Traverse

Its reputation as Tasmania’s – and possibly Australia’s – toughest officially tracked bushwalk is, however, very well deserved. The growing numbers of less experienced and often poorly-prepared walkers attempting the track is concerning, as failed attempts due to underestimating the weather and challenging terrain are quite common. Groups frequently need rescue too. 

Here are nine key considerations before attempting the Western Arthurs. They can also be applied equally to the adjoining Eastern Arthurs Range – including Federation Peak – for anyone considering trekking through to the other end of the Arthurs Range.

1. Know what you’re undertaking & make sure you’re prepared – both physically & mentally

This can’t be stressed enough – walking the Western Arthurs is tough. Really tough. It’s a substantially more difficult undertaking than typical Tasmanian multi-day walks like the Overland Track or through the Walls of Jerusalem. It’s definitely not a walk for beginners, nor those inexperienced with Tasmanian alpine conditions.

Much attention is focused on the Beggary Bumps, the infamously broken section of rocky peaks and deep gullies situated between High Moor and Haven Lake. Yet between the full length of Moraines A and K – the traditional in and out points of the range – lies a seemingly endless series of extremely steep climbs and descents, consisting of rock or rooted vegetation. When not going straight up or down a ridgeline or gully, the rarely-marked track is often narrow, covered in wet exposed roots and hemmed in with vegetation. 

A mate once described the Western Arthurs as a jungle gym disguised as a bushwalk. That’s an apt description.

Throw in the additional considerations of exposed campsites (there are no huts), scarcity of water in some sections, creek crossings that are hazardous in flood, and the risk of becoming tent bound due to bad weather, and it’s clear that the Western Arthurs suffers fools and the ill-prepared poorly. 

Read more: How To Ruin Your Hike (I Learned The Hard Way)

The Mt Pegasus climb

It’s strongly recommended that would-be walkers have successfully completed both the Overland Track and one or more of Tasmania’s more difficult multi-day walks – Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne offer similar challenges, but over shorter distances – before attempting either the standard Moraine A-K traverse, or the full Western Arthurs Range out to West Portal and Lake Rosanne.

Take the time to study the notes in Bill Wilkinson’s The Abels and John Chapman’s South West Tasmania. There are countless blog posts and YouTube videos too, that’ll give a good indication of what to expect out on the track.

Lesser experienced walkers doubting their abilities on such terrain – or the forecasted weather – should limit their trip no further than Lake Oberon and return via Moraine A. This is still quite a steep and testing walk – with views to match – but avoids much of the technical scrambling and exposure that commences from Mt Pegasus.

2. Book your spot & get your transport in order

In addition to the usual Tasmanian National Parks Pass, you’ll also need to register your party’s starting date with the Overnight Bushwalk Booking System. Registration is free and is used to manage walker numbers. The primary campsites along the Western Arthurs are quite limited and tent space on a platform isn’t guaranteed, so registration is essential to prevent overcrowding, particularly over summer.

All available spaces filled at the High Moor Campsite

Scotts Peak Dam is, to be blunt, in the middle of nowhere, about an hour’s drive from the nearest town of Maydena and two and a half hours from Hobart. There’s no public transport to the trailhead at Huon Campground. For walkers without access to private transport, Tasmanian Expeditions provides a shuttle service during the peak season. 

If you’re travelling from interstate or overseas, be aware that flights, accommodation, and hire cars tend to be in short supply in Tasmania over the summer months, and are typically booked out months in advance. If you’re planning on visiting during the peak season, be sure to lock in your plans as early as possible.

3. Keep a close eye on the weather & have a flexible itinerary

Wild euphemisms about Tassie’s weather abound to the point of cliché, but when it comes to Western Arthurs, they’re no exaggeration. The region is notorious for its volatile weather patterns year-round, and bushwalkers need to be prepared for all seasons, regardless of the actual time of year.

Read more: 7 Tips For Rainy Day Hiking

Exposed sloping rock ledge near Lovers Leap

Bitterly cold and wet southerlies can blast up from Antarctica to the exposed ridgeline throughout the warmer months and snow isn’t unheard of too. Rain not only renders much of the track a deep muddy mess, but can make steep rock gullies slippery and dangerous to traverse. Heavy rain will quickly flood the creeks along the Arthur Plains, with the major crossing of Junction Creek impossible to safely cross while high. 

Conversely, summer can also bring stifling hot and dry temperatures, with the potential for limited water between lakes. The sun has a real bite, thanks to the less-dense ozone layer at lower latitudes, and is merciless on exposed skin. There’s also the increasing risk of bushfire in the region, typically caused by dry lightning strikes. Another concerning sign of our changing climate.

Walking Arthur Plains

What all this means is: be prepared! I’ll discuss what to pack shortly, but just as crucial is to carefully evaluate the weather forecast for the week and plan accordingly. A spare day or two should be built into your plans – especially if you’re flying out soon after your hike – to allow for any unforeseen delays.

Case in point: at Lake Cygnus we came across a couple from interstate who’d been tent-bound for two days due to bad weather. They ended up having to abandon the rest of the traverse to return back via Moraine A to avoid missing their flight home.

4. Pack Carefully – Don’t Skimp – But Definitely Don’t Take Too Much (or You’ll Suffer!)

Ah, the bushwalker’s paradox!

Unlike the Overland Track or Frenchmans Cap Track, there are no huts along the Western Arthurs to shelter in when the weather turns feral. This means every bit of protection and warmth you’ll require to stay safe from the elements will need to be carried by you.

Packing set up for the Western Arthurs

The following should be considered essential:

• A good quality waterproof jacket and overpants. Both will get a thrashing from the vegetation and rock, so err on the side of durability. Ultralight shells will likely get shredded
• A well-thought-out layering system. Enough options for warm and cold weather, and managing wet clothing. Always keep a dry set of clothing for camp at the end of each day, and protect from the damp at all costs
• Durable footwear. The Western Arthurs have literally destroyed not one but two pairs of essentially brand new lightweight synthetic boots of mine within single trips, thanks to the constant abrasion against rock and the acidic mud. I’d recommend well-broken-in leather boots and gaiters to keep the mud and snakes at bay
• A warm, dependable sleep system. The primary camps over the range lie between 850m and 950m elevation, and temperatures usually drop into the low single digits overnight even during summer. A -1°C (comfort) sleeping bag, R3+ insulated mat and cosy merino thermals (including beanie) are a solid starting point for the warmer months 
• A sturdy three or four-season tent, with additional cord or hardware to securely fix it to timber platforms when needed. Please don’t take cheap department store tents – they won’t last long in south west Tassie winds
• Plenty of gloves. Not only for warmth, but also to protect your hands. You’ll be using them a lot! Expect them to wet out so pack several pairs of differing weight
• Gas or liquid fuel cooking system. As part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, the Western Arthurs is a Fuel Stove Only zone. Fires of any size, anywhere, are strictly forbidden
• Map (Western Arthur 1:50,000) and compass. GPS can be helpful for pinpointing your location and ensuring you’re on track, but be aware of the technology’s limitations in extremely steep terrain and (often) clagged-in conditions. Don’t expect great accuracy at all times
• A PLB, and a comprehensive first aid and repair kit. There’s zero mobile phone reception across the track so some form of emergency beacon (one per group minimum, preferably two or more) really should be considered a must if things turn for the worst. Even if your trip goes perfectly to plan, a week of tough bushwalking will invariably test your body and your gear hard. So make sure you’ve got the means to make running repairs on either!
• Plenty of food, including emergency meals in case your trip is extended by weather. This should be obvious, but there are absolutely no shops, refuges, or chances to re-supply along the way. A week’s worth of food equals significant weight and bulk to your rucksack; dehydrated meals and energy-dense snacks can really be your friend here
• The ability to carry 4-5 litres of water if necessary. Between Lake Oberon and Haven Lake there are no permanent water sources, and during extended dry spells the small creek at High Moor camp can run dry too. An extra bladder or a couple of soft bottles are a lightweight and compact option that can be buried away in your rucksack until needed. Filtering water is more of a personal preference. We typically don’t – nor do most local bushwalkers we know – however we did treat the water source at High Moor with sterilisation tablets as it was barely flowing and (unfortunately) showed signs of minor contamination from careless hikers
• A length of rope, cord or webbing for pack-hauling. This one isn’t an absolute necessity, but has long been suggested by various guidebooks and is highly recommended if anyone in your group isn’t super confident scaling steep rocky descents with a full pack on. Strictly speaking, the only section of track that requires pack-off scrambling is the well-known ‘hole in the rock’ leading up Mt Pegasus. Solo walkers or pairs will find a ~10m length of cord useful for getting themselves and their packs up and through. Further along across the Beggary Bumps there are many exposed and steep rocky descents which can be intimidating, especially in damp conditions. A couple of people in our group were happy to use a rope and makeshift harness to descend part of the Tilted Chasm in very wet conditions

So that’s the basics of what you need. What don’t you need? Unnecessary weight in your pack!

Packing flat lay for for a 10 day trip to the Eldons, though it’s not far off what a full Western Arthurs trip would require

If it isn’t abundantly clear by now, most days on the Western Arthurs track will involve considerable amounts of climbing up and down very steep terrain. Climbing through wet, slippery vegetation or exposed rock is not only exhausting with a heavy pack on your back, but can be awkward too, and increase the risk of injury.

Trust me, by the third or fourth day you’ll be cursing every excess gram on your back!

There are no magic hacks to shedding weight off your pack – it comes over time through cumulative experience. Suffice to say, your eventual packing list needs to be road tested and refined on other, shorter trips beforehand. This is not a trip for untested, unproven gear.

Read more: How I Got Into (And Out of) a Particularly Sticky Hiking Situation

Technical descent down Beggary Bumps

5. You’re Gonna Be Moving Slowly a Lot of the Time

Viewed on a map, the overnight camps of Lake Cygnus, Lake Oberon, High Moor and Haven Lake look comically close together – a mere handful of kilometres per day to cover. However what even the densely stacked contours fail to convey is the sheer verticality of the route. At times you’ll feel like you’re spending more time climbing up or down than making forward progress – because you are. It isn’t unusual to be covering less than a kilometre an hour at times. 

As such, early starts are wise, especially if conditions are damp or you plan on taking one or more side trips up the various peaks along the way.

6. There Will Be Mud & You Will Get Wet

It rains on average 250 days or more a year in south west Tasmania, and certain sections of the Western Arthurs track never really dry out. Track braiding (where people avoid mud and create new trails) is a huge issue and only makes the problem worse, creating waterlogged scars upon the land. Do the right thing: accept you’ll have wet boots from day one, and plough through the middle. You’ll appreciate your dry bed socks even more at the end of each day!

Even if it isn’t raining, brushing against or climbing through damp scrub along narrow sections of track will quickly wet clothing and increase the risk of hypothermia, especially if it’s cold and windy. Again, a quality waterproof jacket and pants are essential. Being well-practised in managing damp clothing is critical too. It may be several days before you get a sunny afternoon to dry out your gear.

Drying out after 24 hours of rain at Lake Cygnus

7. Toilet Etiquette & Leave No Trace

This one is really, really important. 

Bad toileting behaviour by bushwalkers is arguably the biggest direct threat to water quality in Tasmanian wilderness. All catholes need to be dug at least 150mm/6” deep, 100m from campsites and water sources, and 100m away from all lake catchment areas and watersheds.

Herein lies the problem: the Western Arthurs Range is literally a couple of dozen alpine lake bowls slammed together in one big line! Finding a suitable spot to dig a hole that meets that criteria can prove very difficult.

Read more: How To Poo in the Bush

Because of this, all the main camps – Junction Creek, Lake Cygnus, Lake Oberon, High Moor, and Haven Lake – have a single full-capture toilet. These all-in-one, fly-in/fly-out units are basic and ‘airy’ to say the least. Use them – even if they gross you out! – and crucially, plan to use them morning and evening to minimise the need to dig a cat hole while out on track. 

Read more: Long Live the Poo Tube! – Why It Might Be Time We Start Packing Out All of Our Turds

Local’s tip: The toilets have no doors (or walls) so place a stick, walking pole or item of clothing over the walkway to signify to others the WC is ‘in use’ and save potential embarrassment.

The toilet at High Moor

Now, IBS, tummy bugs and bad reactions to dehydrated meals do happen, so be smart and plan ahead. A couple of WAG bags add little bulk to your toileting kit, but will give you a fast and responsible option if ‘Nature calls’ at an inconvenient time. 

Read more: Best Products for Burying or Packing Out Poo in the Outdoors

Speaking of water quality, if you must take a refreshing dip in one of the lakes, please thoroughly rinse off any sunscreen (well away from the lake) beforehand and absolutely do not use any soap when washing yourself. A vastly better option is simply to collect water and have a wipe down, well away from the lake. 

Lake Oberon, for example, is the last refuge for the critically-endangered Pedder galaxias freshwater fish. It’ll also be your water source too, if the inflow creeks aren’t flowing.

As always when walking in wilderness areas, Leave No Trace principles should be adhered to rigorously. Limit group sizes (max eight, four to six is better), stick to the footpad (trail) to prevent further damage to vegetation and pack out all rubbish – yours and anyone else’s you find along the way.

Don’t accidentally feed the wildlife by hanging your food in dry bags or packing it deeply within your rucksack. Like most popular camps around Tasmania, the critters have figured out that humans equal food: thankfully the curious Dusky Antechinus around Lake Cygnus kept a respectful distance, but stories of rats and mice chewing their way into tents are all too common.

One particularly peckish Dusky Antechinus

8. Be Respectful of Others’ Needs at Camp

This one should go without saying anywhere, but is particularly relevant along the Western Arthurs. The tent platforms and hardened spaces are very limited at the overnight camps and often fill completely when the track is at capacity over the summer months. It was disappointing to witness some less-than-civil conversations between latecomers trying to find space and others unwilling to shift their setups.

Always be considerate of other campers

Always pitch tents so that the available spaces are fully utilised – don’t park right in the middle of a platform – and make room for others if required, even if that means taking down your clothesline, shifting guy ropes or even moving your tent a bit to create more space for others. Smaller tents are definitely an advantage here: if you’re sleeping solo, a compact freestanding 1P tent will squeeze into the tightest of spaces and give you more options.

Western Arthurs camps are usually close-quarter affairs, so be a good neighbour and keep the noise to a whisper after 8pm. Everyone wants and needs a good night’s sleep!

9. Embrace the Challenge!

The Western Arthurs is hard – that’s kinda the point! It’s a legit challenge that rewards experienced, well-prepared and tenacious bushwalkers with a week-long experience that has few equals anywhere else on the planet. 

Accept you will be wet, muddy, stink to high heaven, bruised all over and wonder if your knees will ever recover from the endless climbs and drops. It’s a small price to pay to experience the immense wildness of Tasmanian wilderness!

View south from the Western Arthurs