SA Murray River Kayaking – A Warm and Lazy Overnight Loop Paddle for One

Dreamy summer paddling in South Australia’s Murrary River National Park is a certified vibe. This route back upstream via Katarapko Creek ensures you do zero backtracking and end where you started – rare for a paddling trip!

We acknowledge that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Erwirung people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Highlights

• Gently paddling downstream before turning up into Katarapko Creek for an upstream paddle
• Camping among River Red gums in Murray River National Park
• Enjoying a peaceful downstream flow on your looped paddle the following morning

A Solo Paddling Adventure

An early February solo circuit. Some trips have colour themes, this one was deep red, oranges and greys, and browns – to me this symbolised deep reflection, inwardness, and sitting in darkness and stillness.

This probably had something to do with my own inner cycle too. We (the kayak and I) travelled downstream the Murray and upstream Katarapko Creek to find camp before turning back into the Murray to return.

I set off on a Friday night after work, an easy 3-hour drive from Adelaide to Loxton and camped in the Big 4 caravan park, on the river and conveniently at the beginning of my paddle the following day.

Saturday morning saw a few car-related battery problems (and solutions thanks to RAA) and an unforeseen drive to Renmark to charge my new car battery. The drive was a blessing in disguise as I managed to gain a delicious coffee from local roasters Arrosto Coffee and a fresh roll from the local bakery.

Back at the Big 4, I left my car in a nearby riverside car park and headed downstream on my kayak. My ‘second-hand-half-adventure’ kayak has one hole for stuffing items in. Here I stuffed my tent, sleeping bag, a dry bag with food and a dry bag with stove items.

Read more: Packing List for a Canoe Adventure

With me I had 3 water bottles, a juice and important snacks. I paddled downstream with the scattering of buildings on my left as I left the outskirts of Loxton, and dense bush on my right, with occasional emus and an array of birds fishing. The combination of warm early afternoon sun and a gentle pull downstream made for a relaxing four kilometres.

Turning up Katarapko Creek

After about 5km downstream I turned hard right up Katarapko Creek. I stopped on this corner for lunch and took a look at my new surroundings. Travelling upstream proved to be a bit less chill. I entered Murray River National Park and waved at riverside campers, each spread out over a distance and relaxing in the afternoon sun, fishing and bathing.

I found that paddling upstream requires a bit more exertion of the upper body muscles, but there were multiple places to pull up and have a rest (and perhaps a swear at myself for underestimating upstream paddling).

Just before Katarapko Creek reenters the Murray upstream, I came across what’s called the ‘stone weir’, a section that’s described as a strong flow of water. Luckily it was also marked as a pretty easy spot to portage (carry my kayak) around the feature.

Read more: Remember to Leave No Trace

This whole situation was way out of my league though, so I was intrigued to give it a crack. I was paddling upstream, and the water over the weir looked like whirlpools and bubbles… a little too intense for my limited experience (which I learnt to recognise based on my feelings of worry and my attempts to cross that resulted in my kayak spinning in circles like a helicopter).

I ended up exiting the river on the righthand side where I could find a little bank, taking out all of my gear, heaving my kayak up over a ledge and ‘kayak-packing’ a hundred metres upstream before re-entering the creek. The intensity of the ‘stone weir’ changes depending on water levels and on the levels of strength and experiences of kayakers.

Back to the Murray River

Camp for the night was just a short paddle from here, and I arrived with enough time to set up camp, have a wander, eat some dinner and watch the sunset and bugs come to life.

I chose a campsite right at the point where Katarapko Creek splits off from the Murray River, and was lucky to have sunset views and an easy launch point. Camp was surrounded by big River red gums and was nice and flat.

Book ahead! You can book a campsite along the river on the national park website.

The following day was a morning of easy paddling back downstream on the Murray River, passing occasional motorhomes and boats. The day was hot, and thankfully there were many places to pull up to and take a swim to cool down.

Essential Gear

• Kayak – hire is available!
• Dry bags
• PLB
• Sun protection
• Water bottles
• Mosquito repellant
• Tent/sleeping gear
• Foods
• Water – there will be no water available on the trail unless you drink the Murray River

Read more: How To Purify Water In The Bush

How To Get There

It’s a 3 hour drive from Adelaide to Loxton, where the Big 4 Caravan Park is located. You can leave your car parked at the Tree of Knowledge.

Skill Level

Intermediate

The kayaking is fairly easy but the area is quickly remote and you’ll need to have your overnight camping skills dialled.

Distance Covered / Elevation Gain / Duration

Day 1: 22km / 6 hours  – Strava

Day 2: 26km / 4 hours – Strava