Heavy snowfall, fallen trees and closed roads couldn’t stop Explorer Warwick from tackling a slice of NSW wilderness during this 3 day Compagnoni Pass hike.


  • Spectacular scenery – rivers and mountains
  • An impressive camp cave
  • A challenging and rewarding walk

Welcome to Kanangra Boyd

The Kanangra Boyd National Park is a large expanse of wild and rugged wilderness on the southern side of the Blue Mountains in NSW. The area’s not as readily accessible as other destinations in the surrounding region. It’s unspoilt and often possible to walk for days without seeing another group.

This was the case on a recent adventure when our party of four embarked on a challenging three-day hike incorporating the Kowmung River, Compagnoni Pass and Mt Cloudmaker.

Day One, Kind Of

We headed from Sydney on a Tuesday evening to enable an early start, but our plans were thrown into disarray when a thick blanket of snow was encountered on the road leading up to Jenolan Caves. Our vehicle was turned around by the SES prior to the descent into the caves, and we tried the alternate access through Oberon.

Driving at a slow and steady pace, we eventually made it to the Kanangra Walls road turnoff where we made an impromptu camp on the roadside as the snow continued to fall.


Compagnoni Pass Hike Warwick Harding

The Real Day One

Kanangra Walls to Kowmung River

The following morning we tentatively crept down the dirt road still covered in snow. After removing a few fallen trees from our path, we thankfully arrived at the track head without incident.

Fog blanketed Kanangra Gorge and a light drizzle fell as we walked out along Kanangra Walls and down through Coal Seam Cave to the Gingra Range track.



This track is one of the more gentle ways to descend to the Kowmung River, as most other ridgelines plunge rapidly and steeply downwards. We covered the 19km to the river at a steady pace, with a few frustrating unplanned diversions when the faint track was lost.

We set up camp at a pleasant clearing where Gingra Creek meets the Kowmung.

Day Two

Kowmung River to 100 Man Cave

The second day involved a thigh burning 800m vertical climb up Ti Willa Spur. There’s no defined track present, however the country is largely open and easily negotiated, until the final 50m vertical. Unpleasant bush bashing through thick scrub is required to reach the cliff line.

From here, Compagnoni Pass is the way up to the top, with a chain and a few metal spikes hammered into the rock to aid the climb.

A few km of comparatively flat walking along Ti Willa Plateau leads to 100 Man Cave, a stunning overhang which provides shelter for both camp and a fire. This is a true luxury after walking in damp conditions for a few days.


Day Three

100 Man Cave to Kanangra Walls via Mt Cloudmaker

Well-worn tracks were present for the entirety of the third day, making navigation simple.

The track took us up and over Mt Cloudmaker, along the knife-edge line of Rip, Rack Roar and Rumble, Mt Stormbreaker, Mt Berry and eventually back up to Kanangra Walls.



Luckily, the fog gradually lifted as we descended Stormbreaker, revealing the spectacular views in all directions – a photographers paradise.

Essential Gear

  • Backpack and camping gear
  • Warm clothes

How To Get There

Kanangra Walls can be accessed either by a down and up through Jenolan Caves, or coming in through Oberon. The track head here is the starting point for many possible adventures. Nearby Boyd River campground is a good option to stay in the area, with basic facilities available.


  • Bushwalking
  • Camping
  • Photography

Skill Level

Intermediate to Advanced (Challenging elevations and some off track walking)

Distance Covered

Approximately 45km over 3 days


Feature photo by @patsuraseang