Adventure Deeply, Tread Lightly, & Sleep Soundly From the Ultimate Grampians Base

In search of a convenient, sustainable, and affordable hiking basecamp, Explorer Josh set out to explore Gariwerd/Grampian’s green spaces without costing the Earth.

 

We acknowledge that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Djab Wurrung and Jardwadjali people who have occupied and cared for these lands and waters for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Nestled in national parks and protected wilderness areas, Victoria’s trail towns are launching pads for some of Australia’s wildest experiences. Fern-lined tracks, tumbling waterfalls, and lush canopies are never far (by Australia’s expansive standards).

My adventure buddy, Emily, hails from country Victoria and couldn’t wait to show off her home state. I, a South Australian native, was keen to explore. We wanted a place where bushwalks began from your doorstep, an extended-hours brewpub, eco- and budget-friendly accommodation, and enough adventure to pad out a weekend, all within walking distance.

YHA Grampians Eco in Halls Gap, perched on the eastern reaches of Gariwerd/Grampians National Park, ticked all the boxes.

Where We’re Going, We Don’t Need Roads

We boarded the late-morning train from Southern Cross Station in Melbourne to Ararat, then hopped a bus onto Halls Gap, deep into Djab Wurrung and Jardwadjali Country. While public transport added half an hour compared to the three-hour drive, bypassing Melbourne’s abominable traffic likely added years to the end of our lives.

Read more: The Ultimate Explorer’s Guide to The Grampians

From the town’s main drag, we made the ten-minute stroll north to our weekend lodging. Right away, the accomodation felt like more than just a place to stash our bags – it was a natural extension of the Gariwerd/Grampians experience.

The property strikes a thoughtful balance between style, comfort, and sustainability. Its green initiatives are particularly impressive: solar hot water, five sizeable rainwater tanks, and reverse cycle fans make for a low-impact, high-comfort stay. Out back, there’s an organic veggie patch, food-scrap-loving chooks, and a herb garden to spice up your post-hike feast, prepared on the BBQ or in one of the two restaurant-grade kitchens (a big win for frugal foodies).

During cooler months, the communal lounges and courtyard fire pit are just as suited to trading stories as they are to sipping sleepy tea, warmed by the crackling flames.

Stashing our packs in our private room, we considered lazing around our accommodation for the afternoon, but with paths to Clematis Falls and Chatauqua Peak minutes from the back door, the wild was too close to resist.

The Gariwerd/Grampians’ hiking experience shifts with the seasons. In summer, trails are framed by a patchwork of golden grasslands and radiating rock. Early starts are essential to beat the heat, and while views are spectacular year-round, scenic waterfalls often slow to a trickle, with pools turning stagnant.

Winter transforms the region. Passing showers revive cascades, valleys glow green, mist hangs on peaks, and the crisp air makes for invigorating treks. Fewer hikers mean quieter trails, allowing for more wildlife encounters – kangaroos, emus and even echidnas emerging from their burrows. With the bonus of YHA’s cosy fireside evenings, cooler months make an adventure here feel all the more satisfying.

Having navigated our afternoon loop, including scrambling to Chatauqua Peak to take in the region’s signature ranges arching through the landscape, we returned to the YHA. Caretaker Mark was busying himself in reception, but he took a moment to share his trail recommendations – and pointed us toward the Grampians Wine Cellar, a popular spot for a Friday night drop.

Read more: Best Places To Eat In And Around Gariwerd/Grampians National Park

Rinsed and refreshed, we meandered into town, lured in by the laid-back buzz of the wine cellar deck. Locals and hikers swapped stories over an impressive selection of regional vintages, the kind of easy camaraderie that makes you feel like a regular.

Tempting as it was to linger into the night, tomorrow’s full dance card called for restraint – we kept it low-key, sipping, chatting, and letting the day settle.

Sunrise To Stars

Our 5am alarm hit like a sledgehammer, but the promise of catching sunrise from The Pinnacle was enough to drag us from our toasty beds. It meant a pre-dawn climb launching from Halls Gap’s foothills, coiling clockwise around the Wonderland Loop.

Our headlamps carved through the darkness, illuminating the 400m ascent up the craggy escarpment. As we rose, this artificial glow faded, giving way to first light’s violet hue diffusing through the gums.

We timed our climb perfectly, reaching the empty Pinnacle Lookout as the sun peeked over the distant windmill-lined ranges.

With stomachs growling and a long day ahead, we looped back through the mountain valley. The path led us through rocky outcrops and towering sandstone spires before reaching Silent Street, an eerie, wind-carved slot canyon where the world fell quiet.

We ducked under arches into Cool Chamber, the air chilling our skin, then onto Venus Baths, an enchanting chain of rock pools, their waters bubbling into Stoney Creek, which led us back to town.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Breakfast at Livefast Cafe was everything we’d hoped for – rocket-fuel coffee, smashed avo stacks, cockatoos heckling from the patio, and friendly staff that kept the good vibes rolling. By the time I’d mopped the last dribble of egg from my forearm, we were ready to bag our second summit.

A 20-minute amble south to the Tandara Road cul-de-sac, our next conquest, Boronia Peak, emerged through the stringybarks. A flurry of rosellas burst from the undergrowth as we crossed Fyans Creek, the dappled canopy tempering the day’s growing heat.

Sandy tracks climbed through subalpine forest, jumping over fractured rock and buttress roots. At the summit, 360º views fanned out to volcanic plains to the east and across the Gap.

Feet back on level ground, we made a beeline for Paper Scissors Rock Brew Co., where a round of post-hike ales awaited. The Fried Halloumi Pita Bread called our name for lunch, followed by a quick grocery run next door to satisfy our dinner cravings for pesto pasta. Back at our accommodation, tea in hand, we kicked off our boots and receded into the couch cushions.

Half asleep, I barely heard Emily calling out, pointing at two kangaroos munching away outside the window. We wandered out to join them, only to be swept into conversation with a group of friendly backpackers, also exploring the region. Over dinner, we traded trail anecdotes and the hours slipped by unnoticed. We lingered long enough to see stars poke through the clouds. Then, with a jaw-popping yawn, I slipped inside to crash, already half-dreaming about bed.

To Be Continued

Sunday marked our last day in Gariwerd/Grampians, and the reality of leaving had crept in like a dull ache. Our morning was deliberately slow, taking advantage of the piping hot showers, immaculate kitchens and toasty living areas.

We loitered by the ‘wall of knowledge’, papered with trail maps and must-see attractions, marking all the spots we’d discover with a car.

As we plotted our return, I realised that the Grampians aren’t just about the adventure – they’re about having a base that connects you to the land and people that revel in it. YHA Grampians Eco has just that – a trail-loving tribe that makes the place feel like home, even for a weekend.

We’ll be back, and next time, we’ll bring a set of wheels and several more days.

The Grampians Are Full of Great Adventures!

• Guide to MacKenzie Falls, Grampians National Park
• Major Mitchell Plateau – Hike the Best of the Grampians Over 3 Days
• Grampians Peaks Trail: The Ultimate Guide to This 13 Day Hike in Gariwerd
• The Pinnacle – Grampians National Park’s Best View
• Grampians Peaks Trail – The Pinnacle to Mt Rosea in 3 Days