As Girraween’s bigger and lesser-known sister, Sundown National Park is a treasure trove of remote and relatively undiscovered hikes. Saphira made the four-hour trip from Brisbane to check out one of the park’s multi-day hikes, the Mt Donaldson Circuit.

 

We Are Explorers acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of the Country on which this adventure takes place, who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Mt Donaldson Circuit Quick Facts

Distance: 31.2km return to the summit of Mt Donaldson and back
Duration: 3 days
Elevation: This is essentially a flat walk with 600m elevation up Mt Donaldson

Mt Donaldson Circuit Highlights

  • Red, rugged landscape
  • Heaps of wild swimming spots
  • Wild camping
  • Remote and uncrowded
  • Super challenging 

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

About the Mt Donaldson Circuit

Located a four-hour drive southwest of Brisbane, Sundown is known for its rugged and serene landscape, with red gorges and deep waterholes reminiscent of the Kimberley or Northern Territory. The north side of the park can only be accessed by 4WD, but there’s plenty of 2WD-accessible hiking to be had from the south side.

 

Sun-up to Sundown National Park – The Mt Donaldson Circuit (QLD), Saphira Schroers, Wallaby Rocks, valley, rocks, hiking, hiker, cliff

 

When I walked the Mt Donaldson Circuit, a navigationally difficult multi-day hike, I didn’t see a soul for four days. The hike passes by several waterholes and features some hella good views from the top of Mt Donaldson. Best of all, Queensland Parks offers ‘bush camping’ permits for Sundown National Park, so you simply pay the usual fee and camp wherever you want.

Skill Level

Intermediate-Advanced

If you’re in any doubt about your physical fitness, navigation skills, or bush bashing experience, do not attempt the route down the summit to McCallisters Creek – return the way you came. You won’t miss any views, but you’ll miss a lot of sketchy, exposed terrain, and overgrown bush.

The multi-day hikes in Sundown National Park are extremely challenging and can be very dangerous. Information is deliberately limited, and the walks aren’t encouraged by rangers. Don’t rely on these track notes as your sole source of information for route planning!

Don’t forget! Fill out a QLD Trip Intention Form before you head off.

 

Sun-up to Sundown National Park – The Mt Donaldson Circuit (QLD), Saphira Schroers, Early Morning at Wallaby Rocks Waterhole, river, cliffs, gumtree

How to Get to the Mt Donaldson Circuit

From Brisbane it’s around a four hour drive to the national park via National Highway 15 and then State Route 89. You can park at The Broadwater camping area for the duration of the hike. Avoid driving the last hour at dusk, unless you want to drive half the speed limit trying to avoid the hordes of roos.

Check out this map of the national park for more details.

Essential Gear

  • Tent
  • Sleep system 
  • Lightweight food & snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Two water purification devices: a filter and either a UV wand or tablets (the waterholes are brown and have a lot of algae, and there’s no other water sources, so you need to be able to filter out debris and then zap/kill bacteria for good measure)
  • Detailed topographic map or app, preferably with the intended route marked in – don’t depend on these track notes alone to plan your route! Give a copy to a ranger or trusted friend with a return day
  • PLB as there’s no reception
  • Ankle-supporting boots (we hiked in low-rise boots and regretted it)
  • Gaiters (for snakes and ticks)
  • Tick tweezers (Sundown was infested with Kangaroo ticks when we visited in April 2019)
  • Don’t bother bringing camp shoes, the whole place is covered in small cacti which will skewer your feet

Read more: Comparing Different Methods of Treating and Purifying Water on the Trail

What It’s Like to Hike the Mt Donaldson Circuit

Day 1 – The Broadwater to Wallaby Rocks Waterhole

You’ll be starting from The Broadwater, a traditional drive-in campsite. Just a kilometre in you’ll have to schedule your first break at Permanent Waterhole, a sweet little spot where you can try your hand at fishing for carp, take a dip, or just chill out. We spotted a little waddling echidna we called Edna, and a very old wallaby at the water’s edge. 

Read more: Staying Safe Around Swimming Holes and Waterfalls

 

Sun-up to Sundown National Park – The Mt Donaldson Circuit (QLD), Saphira Schroers, photo by Mitchell Quinn, Floating on Permanent Waterhole, swimming, rocks

Floating on Permanent Waterhole | Photo by Mitchell Quinn

 

Continue on, following the Severn River as it winds through the open landscape. Keep an eye out for kangaroos and gargantuan goannas. The Severn River is wide and obvious, so this part is navigationally straightforward, even though it’s not a true track.

Read more: How To Hike Off-Track

A good lunch spot is Red Shelf Waterhole, a ridiculously beautiful red rock outcrop with pools of water. Someone’s done the hard yakka here and set up a stone couch and bench. There’s a fire pit too, and fires are permitted in Sundown as long as you carry in your own wood and keep it small and sensible. 

 

Sun-up to Sundown National Park – The Mt Donaldson Circuit (QLD), Saphira Schroers, photo by Mitchell Quinn, Painting at Wallaby Rocks, river, rocks, painting

 

After lunch, keep meandering along the Severn River until you get to Wallaby Rocks Waterhole, a great spot to pitch for the night. You’ll need your topo map and/or app towards the end, as it can be a little difficult to figure out where you’re going next. Wallaby Rocks is another lovely spot for a dip and to paint, if you’re so inclined. 

Read more: Navigating With a Map & Compass

Day 2 – Summiting Mt Donaldson

The next morning, back-track about an hour and then head up the ridge following the dingo fence towards a saddle. It’s a hard 200m ascent up 30º incline terrain. You’ll be following the dingo fence most of the way.

After about an hour, veer left and follow the ridge to the summit. There’s a series of three mini ascents totalling 400m elevation, before the final push for the summit. This takes up most of the day and there aren’t any good lunch spots, so stop wherever.

 

Sun-up to Sundown National Park – The Mt Donaldson Circuit (QLD), Saphira Schroers, Mountains

 

The more beautiful part of the day is at the end, with stunning rocky outcrops speckled with orange lichen. There’s a sheltered spot beneath a tree on the summit which has just enough space for a two-person tent.

With plenty of spots around the summit to look over Sundown, you’ll be sitting back with a hot chocolate in no time, watching the sunset over panoramic mountain vistas. Try to spot Blue Gorge in the distance; it’s the destination of another multi-day hike in Sundown.

Read more: How To Poo in The Bush

Day 3 – Mt Donaldson to The Broadwater via McCallisters Creek (or the way you came up)

If you decide not to backtrack the way you came from the summit and plan on completing the loop down via McCallisters Creek, you’ll need to seek out further information from rangers, forums, bushwalking clubs, other hikers who’ve walked the track, and track notes online. In the interests of limiting information of this route to experienced hikers only, I’ve decided not to include detailed track notes of this part of the hike, but here’s the general gist.

The vegetation here is thick, intense, and scratchy, with lots of spiders! There are several massive and sheer drops you need to detour along precarious scree slopes. It took us eight hours without a break to get back to the car. Luckily, there’s a couple of open clearings where you can pitch your tent if shit hits the fan. After a long day, you’ll be back at The Broadwater.

 

 

Now start picking off those Kangaroo ticks – we had about five on us a day, so be warned. I recommend setting off a Mortein bomb in your car with all your camping stuff inside before coming home.

Read more: How to Remove Ticks and Prevent Tick Bites

Mt Donaldson Circuit Tips

  • Seek out further info and get in touch with park rangers before setting off on you trip. This is a remote hike and they’ll be able to give you more up-to-date information
  • Make sure you have all the appropriate safety equipment with you and that you know how to use it

Mt Donaldson Circuit FAQs

When is the best time to walk the Mt Donaldson Circuit?

Because of the limited vegetation cover, temperatures can really soar. Between May and September is best.

This piece was brought to you by a real living human who felt the wind in their hair and described their adventure in their own words. This is because we rate authenticity and the sharing of great experiences in the natural world – it’s all part of our ethos here at We Are Explorers. You can read more about it in our Editorial Standards.