Mt Buffalo National Park is the High Country’s Quiet Achiever – Especially in Summer

Mt Buffalo National Park is best-known as an attraction for day trippers who flock to The Horn and historic Mt Buffalo Chalet, but venture beyond the well-worn paths and you’ll likely have the place to yourself, as Lisa discovered.

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Taungurung people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Quick Overview

Mt Buffalo National Park is the quiet achiever of the alpine region. Its mountainous expanse sits above the bustling tourist towns of Porpunkah and Bright in North-East Victoria. Here you can choose your own adventure, with camping, kayaking, caving, and hiking just some of the activities that await. Not just for winter, it’s a place where scenic wonders appear around every corner – and it’s closer to Melbourne than you think.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

About Mt Buffalo National Park

In winter, Mt Buffalo is one of Victoria’s most accessible alpine parks for snow play, camping, and cross-country skiing. But in the green season, it truly comes alive. 

You can camp for days at Lake Catani, kayaking, swimming, and exploring. Its boulder playgrounds are perfect for abseiling and rock climbing, and there are several quiet trails and remote campgrounds to take you away for a few nights of hiking. 

If you’re game (unlike me), you can ride from Bright up the (very steep) Mt Buffalo Tourist Road or take a guided adventure through the Underground River and its granite caves. 

The Cathedral looking speccy in the snow | Photo by Kristine Brown

Mt Buffalo’s History

Mt Buffalo is on Taungurung Country, traditionally known as Bulla Bulla, ‘Two Mountains’, for the dominant peaks that tower above the landscape below. 

Its underground caves – formed by waters from Lake Catani stripping back the granite boulders over thousands of years – were explored by European cavers in the 1900s and gained a reputation as one of Victoria’s most interesting and challenging cave systems. You can still explore these caves with a licensed adventure operator. 

The Mt Buffalo Chalet, opened in 1910, was once one of Australia’s grandest alpine hotels. It closed in 2007 (I stayed here in the early 90s as a teenager, giggling down the halls at night with my brother, terrified by memories of The Shining), but works to restore this old beauty are well underway, with plans to re-open it to guests this year. You can still wander the ornate gardens, which are a stunning juxtaposition to the looming mountains beyond the manicured lawns.    

The area is also well-known for its waterfalls and (very cold) swimming holes, like Eurobin, Ladies Bath Falls, Rollasons Falls.

How to Get to Mt Buffalo National Park

By Car

Mt Buffalo National Park is 350km from Melbourne via the Hume Freeway – a lot closer than Falls Creek and Mt Buller with the same alpine feel. If you’re coming from the north, it’s around two hours from Albury-Wodonga. The mountain is a short drive from Porpunkah and around 30 minutes by car from Bright. 

In winter you might need snow chains for the tourist road.

By Public Transport

From Melbourne, you can jump on the V/Line train from Southern Cross to Wangaratta and then a V/Line coach to Bright. Getting to the national park is trickier, unless you have a bike, and will require local transport or rideshare. Some hotels in Bright run shuttle services, but this is sporadic and only in winter. 

Where to Stay at Mt Buffalo

Lake Catani Campground is a great base to explore the park. It has 47 campsites, some suitable for bigger groups and caravans, smaller sites for tents and cars and a few ‘walk-in’ sites with tent platforms.  

The sites are spread out so when I visited, I still had my own space, and there are plenty of picnic tables and fire pits. The amenities block has toilets and showers with hot water (luxurious) and there’s easy access to the lake from camp. 

In winter the main gate is closed, but you can still park at the lake and drag your gear in on a toboggan. Sadly, there are no hot showers in winter, with the amenities block locked, but there’s a pit toilet. 

There’s no drinking water at Lake Catani. There are taps, but you need to treat the water or bring your own. 

If you’re off on a hike, there are two small remote campgrounds with room for five tents. 

Mount McLeod camp is 8km from the Reservoir Picnic Area, with water accessed from a nearby stream. 

Rocky Creek camp is more remote, and appears seldom used, if you like to be by yourself. There’s plenty of water in the nearby creek. Both sites have pit toilets.  

Camping at the secluded Rocky Creek Camp

All campsites at Mt Buffalo need to be booked in the green season via the Parks Victoria website.

There are several accommodation options at the foothills of Mt Buffalo in Porpunkah, with some right on the river, and activities for kids. You can camp on the banks of the Buckland River at River View Caravan Park. The kids can cool off in the water play area at Mt Buffalo Caravan Park after a day of bushwalking.

If you’re feeling lux, The Kilnhouses offers stays in converted historic building, including the adults-only Sorting Shed that has a sauna, fireplaces, and sweeping views over the Ovens Valley. 

Where to Eat at Mt Buffalo

A visit to the Porpunkah Pub is almost mandatory in this area, especially after a weekend away hiking. The perfect place for a post hike feed and beer, or to unwind after a day of exploring.

The George coffee van is in the main car park at Mt Buffalo, offering a welcome caffeine hit for biker riders and hikers.

Mt Buffalo Activities

Day Walks

The Horn is Mt Buffalo’s highest peak, with 360-degree views of the alpine region. At sunset watch millions of Bogong moths heading out on their nightly quest for food.

The Gorge Heritage walk is a 6km track with clifftop views over the Buckland Valley.

Overnight Hiking

The Buffalo Plateau Circuit is a 34km loop from The Gorge car park. It takes in rocky icons like The Monolith, Cathedral, Mollisons Gallery, Mt Dunn, and Og, Gog, Magog. I recommend dropping your pack at the base and side-quest up short trails for views as far as Mt Feathertop. 

From the top of Mt Dunn!

The hike is a hidden, High Country gem, and once I got past the day tracks, I barely saw another soul.. The track gets sketchy after the main attractions, and it’s obvious not many people venture this far out, which makes it all the more appealing.  

We stayed at Rocky Creek camp, which is very isolated. The night before we swag camped at Lake Catani Campground, where we enjoyed a mug of pinot next to one of the many fire pits. While the camp was busy, it was easy to find our own piece of nature, with well-spread sites and plenty of trees (and ducklings!) 

Caving and Rock Climbing

Explore the 350m granite caves of Mt Buffalo, where you can see glowworms and wade through the underground river. 

Caving must be with a licensed operator. Bright Adventure Company will provide wetsuits, lights, and other gear you’ll need to tackle this once-in-a-lifetime experience.  

These caves truly feel other-worldly, as we waded through water and squeezed between rock. We spotted glowing spiders (not as horrific as it sounds) and emerged feeling like true adventurers.  

The granite cliffs are the perfect playground for rock climbing and abseiling adventures. There are beginner level scrambles to the advanced, vertical North Wall. 

Kayaking and Swimming

Paddle peacefully on Lake Catani or enjoy a bracing swim at the waterholes dotted around the national park. 

Best enjoyed in summer – did I mention this water is cold? – take a dip at Rollasons Falls or the stunning Ladies Bath and Eurobin Falls, easily one of the best swimming holes in Victoria.

Read more: Staying Safe Around Swimming Holes and Waterfalls

Cycling

The ascent to Mt Buffalo is a grueling 21km with a 4-5% gradient. But if you’re game, you’ll be rewarded with epic views and temperatures ten degrees cooler at the top.

I’m not a cyclist, and judging by the faces I saw on those who’d ridden to the top, I’m unlikely to start anytime soon.

Essential Gear

• Rain jacket and puffer jacket – It’s an alpine environment so be prepared for weather changes, even in summer
• Water or bring a something to treat water
• Food to sustain your adventures
• Bathers and towel
• First aid kit
• PLB if overnight hiking
• Shelter for camp – the campsites don’t have shelter so consider a tarp if you’re hiking or marquee if you’re at Lake Catani
• Long pants or gaiters – Mt Buffalo is snakey in summer
• Logs for the fireplaces at Lake Catani
• Kayak or stand-up paddle board

What it’s Like to Visit Mt Buffalo

Mt Buffalo is often overlooked in the green season in favour of the big boys, Mt Buller and Falls Creek, but when I’m after my own private piece of alpine heaven, there’s no better destination.

One of my favourite adventures is the overnight hiking loop, with boulder scrambles, ladders that lead to epic clifftop views, and wild plains dotted with colourful flowers in spring. 

With no powered motorsports on Lake Catani, and room to find your own secluded space, you can wile away the hours swimming, reading, or simply doing nothing at all.

The beauty of this national park is its variety of activities – it really is nature’s playground – somewhere you’ll want to return to time and again.

Tips for Visiting Mt Buffalo

• If you’re doing the overnight loop, the trail becomes an overgrown goat track as you leave the main attractions, which adds to the sense of isolation of the area, but consider long pants as it’s scratchy
• High octane exploring like caving and rock climbing needs to be done with a licensed tour operator. You can find the full list of operators at Mt Buffalo on the Parks Vic website
• This is a remote, alpine environment, so come prepared and be self-sufficient
• Lake Catani’s waters hide snags and branches, so only go swimming or kayaking if you have the skills to get out of trouble

Feature photo by Rose Aldridge

FAQs Mt Buffalo National Park

Is Mt Buffalo free entry?

Yes, it’s free to enter and visit Mt Buffalo National Park.

Can you drive up Mt Buffalo?

Yep you can drive up to the top of Mt Buffalo via the sealed Mt Buffalo Road which passes many of the parks’ attractions along the way.

How long does it take to hike Mt Buffalo?

The trail from the national park entrance to the Gorge Day Visitor Area is known as The Big Walk, and is 11.3km and takes between4-5 hours.

Can you stay at Mt Buffalo?

Yes! There are multiple campgrounds to pitch a tent at in Mt Buffalo National Park, including the most well-known Lake Catani Campground. There are also a handful of caravan parks closer to town and The Kilnhouses offers stays in converted historic building if you prefer four walls.