‘I Can’t Take Much More Of This CRaPT’ – Tackling the Cathedral Ranges Peaks Trail in a Day

You might be totally pooped after bagging all six of the highest peaks in the Cathedral Range in a single day, but by the time you’re dunny, this hike will surely go from number two to number one on your bucket list.

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Taungurung People who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Quick Overview of the CRaPT

The CRaPT or Cathedral Ranges Peaks Trail, isn’t a singular walking trail (yet), but rather it combines the Northern and Southern Circuits, plus their side-quests, in Cathedral Range State Park, Victoria. This is a totally maxed-out but doable day hike that starts and ends at Cooks Mill Camping Area. Walking clockwise is highly recommended, as the inimitable ascent through Wells Cave is one-way only.

Dropping Some CRaPT Facts

Distance: 21.4km
Duration: 10-12 hours
Elevation gain: 1,133m
Nearest town: Taggary, Buxton (home of the famous burger)
Navigation data: Strava Link

Still walking off that burger

About the CRaPT

Cathedral Range is one of the busier parks near Melbourne, and for good reason, as there’s lots to praise about it. The sanctimonious messmate and Manna gum forests, the penitent sandstone peaks, the reverent birdsong, and the galvanizing waters of the Little River are all keystone features of the CRaPT– as well as the infamous traverse of both the Razorback Ridge Track and Wells Cave. It’s got everything that makes Aussie bush a spiritual experience, so it’s best to just let it move through you, and accept that you’ll probably eat shit at least once.

Read more: How To Identify an Australian Native Plant

Cathedral Ranges History

Known in the Taungurung language as Nanadhong, the Cathedral Range was grazed by settlers into the 1930s until wild dogs became too problematic. Later, much of the area was logged until the 1970s when it was made a state park. Cooks Mill Camping Area still contains some rusty heirlooms of the logging area – as does the nearby pine plantation.

Seriously who put those there?

How to Get to Cathedral Range State Park

Cathedral Range State Park is about two hours northeast of Melbourne on the B360/Maroondah Highway near Buxton.

By Car

Take the Maroondah Highway northeast through Healesville and the Yarra Ranges until you pass Buxton. Then find the turn-off 4km later on your right, which leads down an unsealed road into the park. Pass Neds Gully Campground and follow the Little River until you reach Cooks Mill.

There’s a lot of easier & flatter bushwalking around Cooks Mill if that’s your jam

Skill Level

Intermediate-Advanced

Navigation is pretty straightforward, as are most sections of the CRaPT, but unless you’re trying to turn your friends off hiking forever, this probably shouldn’t be your first day hike. That said, there’s some great Type 2 fun to be had, such as:

• Hand-over-foot clambering
• Very hot, exposed, rocky ridgelines
• A claustrophobic cave traverse
• Steep ascents/descents to some of the peaks
• Probably at least one slithering comrade sunbathing on a rock

Read more: How to Keep Yourself Safe Around Snakes in the Outdoors

A very, very close call because this guy was just a lil too camouflaged

Essential Gear For a Nice CRaPT

• First aid kit
• Hat
• Sunscreen
• NOT hiking poles – they’d mostly be a burden on this trail, too much rock scrambling
• A narrow pack that can fit through very slotted rock faces
• 3L of water (at least!)
• Map or a .gpx of the Northern and Southern Circuits or my Strava

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Don’t stay thirsty, stay hydrated my friends

How to Enjoy All the CRaPT

In dereliction of our city duties, we hit the CRaPT at mid-morning on a Saturday – although it would be equally possible to stay overnight at Cooks Mill and start out at your leisure the next day. This is great because most of the climbing gets out of the way before the sun is too hot, and you’ll probably also beat most of the crowds having a go at Wells Cave.

Sugarloaf Peak

This is the first peak of the CRaPT, and the highest point in the park. It’s a very prominent and aptly named summit that’s reached after a meditative morning bushwalk, clambering up lots of vertical rock slabs, shimmying through Wells Cave, and then getting spit out right at the apex. The peak itself is on the trail so it’s an easy and rewarding start to this arduous day.

Hard to fully capture how vertical some of this ascent is

South Jawbone

After Sugarloaf, you’ll hit the side trail for South Jawbone after picking your way through the boulder fields along the Razorback. South Jawbone is a steep 300m scramble up from the junction with the Farmyard, which is a nice campground to have a break or top up water from a spring 400m east down trail.

Pondering with trepidation and extreme hunger the next peak over

North Jawbone

Just east of the Farmyard Junction, you’ll quickly see the sidetrail for North Jawbone, which is another 300m scramble up to multiple protruding outcrops with panoramic views. Take your pick for lunch, as there are plenty of options and each one offers something different.

The trick is to tastefully crumble the muesli cookie over the peanut butter

Cathedral Peak

After the Jawbones, more rock-hopping along the ridgeline leads you up and over Cathedral Peak, which is a not-so-prominent summit where you’ll barely even notice you’re at the top. The peak is just north of the junction for Neds Saddle, which we’re skipping for now, as there’s still another peak to be bagged.

A lady on the PCT once told me there was no way this Spongebob Shirt would ever make it to Canada. Maria wherever you are I hope you see this

Little Cathedral

This feels like the unloved little brother of the ranges. Most folks poopoo on Little Cathedral since the sidetrail is somewhat tedious and the name is a bit diminutive. But let this be my argument for the peak, as I think it’s got some of the most prominent outcrops and underrated views of the whole range. Plus we got INSANELY close to a lyrebird near the top.

So much Australian beauty I could sing a Slim Dusty tune about it

Neds Peak

Last (and probably least tbh) is Neds Peak, which is a decidedly more…subdued peak. No jawbone dropping views from the top here, since it sits lower in the range than the previous five peaks.

Nonetheless, it’s the feeling of accomplishment that’s the best part about this one – since, now that you’ve bagged all six peaks, means you can make your way leisurely down to Neds Gully. After this, it’s a cakewalk along the Little River until you find a lovely and secluded spot to wash off all of the CRaPT before returning to the car at Cooks Mill.

This photo from the summit is mostly just proof that we actually did it – since there’s not much else to take in. Poor Ned

FAQs About CRaPT

Are dogs allowed at Cathedral Ranges State Park?

Parks Victoria says dogs are not allowed in the park. Moreover, it’d be insanity to try and bring your dog on a hike that requires hand-over-foot rock scrambling.

How dangerous is Wells Cave?

It seems like SES Marysville spends most of its days rescuing people from around Sugarloaf Peak. Yes, it’s a very narrow passage, and yes, the ascent to the peak afterwards requires a bit of negotiation. But as long as you’ve got proper footwear, a reasonable level of fitness, and a good sense of your own mortality then you should be fine.

Is Cooks Mill/CRaPT 2WD accessible?

Despite the trailhead/campground being about 10km down unsealed roads, they’re not too washed out and are very navigable for any car.

What shoes should I wear?

Anything with a closed toe is great, trail runners are especially great. Sandals would be murder on some of the more slippery rocks, and a big hiking boot is cumbersome for how many of them can twist your ankles.

Is there an FKT for the CRaPT?

No but there totally should be. Maybe you can set it.

What does ‘leave no trace’ mean?

As pooped as you might be from this trail, it’s even shittier to poop on this trail. That’s why you’ve gotta leave no trace. Don’t cut the CRaPT, pack out all rubbish that you take in, and use the ample toilets provided (at Sugarloaf Saddle, Neds Gully Campground, and Cooks Mill Camping Area).

It’s your doodie to leave the CRaPT as beautiful & sublime as you found it