I Found My 5-Year-Old Film Photos From Japan’s Most Magical Island

An Island Lost in Time

Rising out of the ocean mist, the island of Yakushima suddenly appears like a figment of long lost folklore.

And this isn’t far from the truth. The whimsical island is the inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki’s Studio Ghibli masterpiece, Princess Mononoke.

Read more: How I Slowed Down and Found Joy in the Little Things in Japan

Even on the old ship taking us there I feel like we could be surrounded by invisible spirits from the Ghibli universe on a metaphorical journey to somewhere else.

And reliving five years later through a few rolls of 35mm film really adds to its other-worldly appeal.

Yakushima, which translates to ‘medicine island’, is located just off mainland Japan’s most southern tip and is home to (arguably) the world’s oldest tree called Jomon Sugi, an enormous Yakusugi (Japanese cedar) estimated to be up to 7,000 years old.

No, that isn’t a typo. This ancient being is tucked deep away among an entire forest of cedars, many of which are over 2,000 years old themselves.

Walking amongst these knotted, twisted testaments to time, I can feel the deep knowledge and understanding that come with long life.

Ancient Yakusugi roots

A local tells us the wood has unreal capabilities. It can be felled and left buried under the earth for hundreds of years without rotting.

These days that’s the only legal way to use the wood, since logging was banned in 2001 after Yakushima became Japan’s first Natural World Heritage site in 1993.

Sugi wood is used for almost everything in Japan, including chopsticks and almost all the houses. But the Yakusugi is special, as it only grows on Yakushima, is particularly long-lived, and incredibly strong, thanks to its evolution in the harsh, windy, rainy conditions of the island.

How to Get to Yakushima

To get to Yakushima, we caught the ferry across from the port city of Kagoshima, famous for its pork dishes, and for living in the shadow of Sakurajima, one of the most active volcanoes in the country. But being on the mainland’s most southern tip, it’s 1,350km away from Tokyo.

Yakushima rising out of the ocean

Instead of flying, we opted to catch the slower, more expensive Shinkansen, which in my opinion is a much better form of travel. Not only does it remove the stress of flying, you get to see the amazing countryside in between, and if you book the right ticket (not express) you can jump on and off at the cities and towns it passes through.

Read more: 8 Best Small Towns to Visit in Japan

For us, it was a fun seven hours on the train which cost about $300. But you can fly for about $50AUD and it only takes about two hours – which we did on the way back to Tokyo.

What to Do on Yakushima

Speaking of rain, we really lucked out with the weather, as Yakushima is Japan’s rainiest location, getting around 10,000mm a year on the mountains. But there wasn’t much more than a drizzle the five days we were there.

Water is obviously abundant here and the island is packed with waterfalls, rivers, and swimming holes filled with clear, clean water, which is a real blessing in the tropical climate.

Blessed with outstanding tropical sunsets

Small trails weave through the forest almost wherever you stop and plenty of them lead past or through rivers and streams worth stopping and cooling off in. Since wild swimming doesn’t seem popular for locals or domestic tourists, it means all the swimming spots were empty!

Read more: Waterfall & Swimming Hole Safety

The main trails are in Yakusugi Land, the national park home to Jomon Sugi and the other particularly ancient parts of the forest. You’re not allowed to drive anywhere near Jomon Sugi or much of this forest yourself.

As the road is so narrow they only allow public shuttle buses that run on loops, so you have to try and time some of your hikes with this.

Anywhere you hike in Yakusugi Land is magical.

Walking amongst ancient trees

The mist that hangs in the air every day seems to have the power to freeze time, and the gnarled limbs and roots of the Yakusugi feel older than the earth itself.

I was waiting for the Kodama (tree spirits in Princess Mononoke) to appear in the trees at any second – visitors had left little toy versions hidden in trees just in case you couldn’t imagine it.

What’s really great about Yakushima is there’s only one road around the outside of the island and only a handful that go up the mountain. So despite no English signs, it’s impossible to get lost.

Read more: 5 Beautiful Day Hikes in Japan

Always found a quiet lunch spot in the trees

Micro-Van Camping on Yakushima

Despite being a tiny island that can be driven around in about three hours, its highest peak is almost 2,000m – like a cartoon depiction come to life.

The roads are narrow, steep, and windy. So the island is home to tiny cars only, known as ‘Kei-car’ in Japan.

I’m 6ft tall, but the ‘kei’ van camper isn’t really big enough for me to drive comfortably and is certainly not big enough for either my partner or I to stretch out our legs.

But that’s part of the charm and the van is cleverly packed with all the camping conveniences like a small cooker, chopsticks, bowls, and a tiny fan that can’t move enough of the tropical air.

The motorbike-sized engine screams without complaint as we charge up the dizzying steep winding roads.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Weaving along coastal roads

We rented the tiny van from a Yakushima local called Yusuke, who was a bit of a hippy and was very excited that we were from Mullumbimby, where he’d visited in Australia. At the time it was only about $35 a day, but it looks like his business website has been down since COVID.

Like the rest of Japan, camping in your car is more-or-less legal in a lot of public places like parks and beach car parks, and there are often showers, lights, and tables. Occasionally it feels weird, as although it’s allowed, we were the only ones doing it, so I imagine it may not be the cultural norm.

Read more: The Car Camping Gear You Need for Winter

One night as we were camped at the beach, a dozen locals appeared with torches and I thought we were about to be run out of town. But being Japan, they’re a bunch of friendly locals checking the beach for laying Loggerhead turtles – as Yakushima is also the laying site of the largest population of turtles in Japan!

Keep in mind there are plenty of good accommodation options on the island and a bunch of free buses to get around on, if you can’t find a micro-van to camp in.

The one thing about booking systems in Japan is they’re often done over email, with no deposit required. As a Westerner, this took me aback at first, but it seems to be the norm, especially with small companies.

Why You’ll Get a Real Japan Experience on Yakushima

Japan is an international tourist mecca, but despite this, domestic tourism in Japan is a much bigger portion of the economy, making up 80% of the market. And Yakushima is really set up for Japanese tourists only.

Which as a foreigner is a real bonus, as there are no tricks or gimmicks and a rare opportunity to get some genuine cultural immersion.

Read more: The 5 Best National Parks in Japan

Arguably the most picturesque torii gates

Keep in mind this trip was in late 2019. So pre-Covid, pre-Tokyo Olympics, and pre-children for us. But I still think Yakushima would be pretty free of other Western tourists.

On one hot day, we pulled into a little alley after recognising the Kanji for hot spring. Despite this feeling counterintuitive, the locals were still going, and so we thought we should too.

After this we wandered around the corner (still following the locals) to a traditional lunch spot that served Bento, and better yet, cold soba – which is unreal on a hot day.

Like in the rest of the country, the food is good wherever you go. On my three trips (and a ski season) to Japan, and Maya’s two years living there, neither of us have had a bad meal.

Just look at this ramen

Now that I think about it, this has really been the experience of Japan for me – it simply does everything really well. It has the safest, cleanest, most interesting big cities. It has world-class skiing, nightlife, shopping, and endless sub-cultures to experience.

But on top of that, it has some of the most still, simple, and spiritual spots in nature I’ve ever experienced – like this magical island.

Go on More Magical Japan Journeys

• 5 Reasons to Visit Hokkaido, Japan Outside Of Ski Season
• Best Ski Resorts in Nagano and Niigata, Japan
• We Hiked & Climbed in Japan With Our 7-Year-Old – And You Can Too!
• Nagano – A Guide to the Foothills of the Japan Alps
• Why Kyushu is the Ultimate Unknown Japan Road Trip Destination
• Sake, Snow, and Silent Treks: A Week in Japan’s Central Chūbu Region