Have you ever thought that ‘Guidebook Writer’ might be your dream job? Getting paid to check out different hikes and tell everyone how awesome they are? Wendy’s done it and is ready to share the goss.

 

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Gamilaroi, Wiradjuri, and Wailwan peoples, who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

 

I recently took on the challenge of writing a guidebook and – joining forces with my photographer friend Julie Gill – we created a guide to walks in the Warrumbungles, Kaputar, and surrounds. We chose this area in consultation with Woodslane Press – an Australian publishing company responsible for a heap of regional walking guides. They wanted a guidebook for the area, and we wanted to do a hiking trip there. Win win!

Want a copy? Use code ‘WAE15’ for 15% off Best Walks around the Warrumbungles and Mt Kaputar 

If you’ve never heard of the place, you’re not alone. While many of the trails are remarkably well-maintained, it’s a remote and rugged part of the country. Located around 500km northwest of Sydney, the Warrumbungle and Kaputar ranges rise from the western plains of NSW, shaped by ancient volcanic activity. 

Strikingly different from the surrounding flatlands, the walking trails here take in lush woodland, towering rock spires, rocky ridges, and views that stretch for kilometres. The hiking is varied and spectacular, with plenty of shorter walks to accessible lookouts alongside full-day hikes, and even a couple of multi-day options. 

Julie and I set out with 22 walks to cover.  We allowed ten days to cover it all, our accommodation was our tents, and we bought most of our food with us. It sounds hectic, but we planned the trip meticulously, creating a day-by-day itinerary, and it actually went pretty smoothly. Naturally though, there were a few learnings along the way. 

1. I Learnt an Awful Lot About Ancient Volcanic Activity

The Warrumbungles, Mount Kaputar, and the Pilliga region showcase a diverse geological history shaped by volcanic activity, sedimentation, and erosion over millions of years. The jagged peaks, domes, and towering dykes that define the landscape of Warrumbungle National Park are the remnants of a large shield volcano, active between 13 and 17 million years ago.

The park’s iconic features are these volcanic formations, including lava domes and dykes, primarily composed of trachyte and basalt. As the surrounding land eroded over millions of years, the hardened magma intrusions remained, slowly revealed as the towering structures we now call The Breadknife, Belougery Spire, Tonduron Spire, and many more.

 

 

Mount Kaputar National Park shares a similar volcanic origin, with eruptions dating back even further, 17 to 20 million years ago. The area was covered by thick basalt flows, which cooled and fractured into distinctive hexagonal columns, a feature clearly seen at Sawn Rocks. Over time, weathering and erosion have shaped the landscape, leaving behind dramatic volcanic plugs and rugged escarpments.

2. The Value of Patience

When you slow down, you see more. Ten days to walk 22 trails isn’t much time, and it’s easy to miss the details when you race through, hastily recording voice notes. But when you stop, you’ll spot the wildflowers, watch eagles circling overhead, and witness how the landscape unfurls into the distance with 100 shades of green. 

Part of the reason I learned this is because photography takes AGES. Julie is an absolute professional in everything she does – something I’ve known since we worked together with UNICEF in northern Iraq more than 10 years ago – and photography is no different. 

When we arrived at the top of Split Rock at 2pm, Julie casually mentioned to me that the best light wouldn’t hit until around 5pm, so we might need to wait a bit. She was happy to settle in for as long as it took to get the perfect shot. 

Personally, I’m not renowned for my patience, and without Julie, I could easily have powered through the trails at full speed. But with a reason to stop, I started to appreciate the smaller moments, to hear the different bird calls, the murmur of the wind, to really see the gnarled trunks of weatherbeaten shrubs, the bees zipping among the wildflowers, and the red, grey, and orange hues of the rocks changing as the sun moved. 

3. Night Photography

In addition to the park’s walking trails, the Warrumbungle National Park is a Dark Sky Park – the first in Australia. Recognised for having some of the clearest and darkest night skies in the country, the park is a premier destination for stargazing.

The combination of high elevation, low humidity, and minimal light pollution makes it an exceptional place to view (and photograph) the Milky Way. The Siding Spring Observatory, located just outside the park, is a world-class astronomical research facility, open to the public with guided tours available.

Within the park itself, there are plenty of options for stargazing and photography. Julie and I spent one night high up, beyond the main campgrounds, at Balor Hut – near Grand High Tops, the peak location for spectacular views. With the hut to ourselves and no artificial light, Julie was able to photograph the Milky Way with the Breadknife in the foreground. I’d never realised night photography relied on so many exact circumstances for ideal conditions.

 

4. There Are People of All Experience Levels Getting out There

I usually tend towards longer hikes, so exploring some shorter trails and meeting other walkers along the way was a reminder that people walk for different reasons. For some folks, a 5km trail is a wild adventure.

Chatting to other less-seasoned walkers along the way reminded me how exciting it is to try something new when you’re a beginner. It was also a reminder that guidebooks can be an important avenue for newbies to find inspiration or develop the confidence to attempt something previously beyond their comfort zone.

With that reminder came the realisation that my less-hikey friends might be more keen to join me in the future if I propose an afternoon stroll instead of a four-day wilderness adventure.

5. Writing Guidebooks Probably Won’t Make You Rich

Okay, so I kinda knew that already, but it’s a way to experience an area with purpose – to push yourself a little harder and look a little deeper. Reflecting on the shorter walks I might have skipped, the lookouts I would have rushed past, and the history I would have skimmed over if I hadn’t had a reason to slow down inspires me to consider another book far more than the thought of payday.

Want to support Wendy’s hikes? Use code ‘WAE15’ for 15% off Best Walks around the Warrumbungles and Mt Kaputar 

Top 3 Walks in Warrumbungle National Park

Grand High Tops Circuit

Duration: 5-6 hours
Distance: 14.5km loop

This is the classic walk of the Warrumbungles, taking in awe-inspiring views of the iconic volcanic spires and domes from every angle – view them from a distance as you ascend, then admire them up close as you near the Grand High Tops. 

 

 

The track takes you from a shady valley along Spirey Creek to rugged, rocky terrain as you approach the summit of Lughs Throne. There are several options for side trips along the way, as well as campsites and a hut to turn it into an overnight adventure.

Read more: Grand High Tops Walk and Bluff Mountain in Warrumbungle National Park

 

Belougery Split Rock Circuit

Duration: 2-3 hours
Distance: 4.6km circuit

This challenging walk, with some steep scrambling, leads to 360° views, taking in some of the best features of the Warrumbungles. It’s a little off the main circuit of walks in the park, but is well worth the effort to explore the unusual rock features and see some of the defining peaks from a new angle. 

The optional side trip to the summit requires nimble feet but is a highlight of the walk, adding just 800 metres and around an extra hour to your journey.

Read more: Belougery Split Rock Walking Track

 

 

Tara Cave Cultural Walk

Duration: 1 hour 30 minutes
Distance: 3.8km return

For tens of thousands of years, these landscapes have been home to the Gamilaroi, Wiradjuri, and Wailwan peoples. This is one of the walks that offers visitors the opportunity to learn more about the history and significance of the area, and view ancient artefacts.

Beginning by the remnants of The Old Woolshed – a shearing shed built by leaseholders in the 1920s or 1930s, and burnt in the devastating Wambelong Fire in 2013 – this is an easy bush walk with views of the Warrumbungle’s spectacular volcanic formations. 

The trail takes you to Tara Cave, which was used by Aboriginal people for shelter and to manufacture stone tools.

Read more: Best Warrumbungles Hikes & Walks

Top 3 Walks in Mt Kaputar National Park

Yulludunida Walking Track

Duration: 3-4 hours
Distance: 3.1km out and back (additional 1.1km to the summit)

This steep but stunning walk starts in thick greenery, taking you through layers of woodland and bush to a stark, rocky landscape reminiscent of Central Australia.

Beginning with wildflowers, birds, and gnarled trees the landscape soon opens up with views of rocky peaks and panoramic vistas. Eventually, you reach the curving rock expanse of Mount Yulludunida’s crater, a rare example of a ring dyke.

Read more: Yulludunida Walking Track

 

Mount Coryah

Duration: 2 hours
Distance: 4km return (with a loop at the summit)

A pretty walk, enjoying dramatic views in every direction across the Nandewar Range as you follow the ridgeline, then loop around and over the rocky summit of Mount Coryah. The track is interspersed with colourful wildflowers, grass trees, and gum trees. Along with other birdwatching opportunities, a section along a steep cliff line gives you the chance to spot eagles circling below.

Read more: Mt Coryah Walking Track

 

Lindsay Rock Tops

Duration: 30 minutes
Distance: 1.8km out and back

This is an easy walk that takes you through woodland with majestic snow gums and over eroded ancient lava flows. The lookout at the end of the track gives sweeping views across to New England and the Liverpool Range. Keep an eye out for the rare Kaputur rock skink, as well as the plentiful kangaroos and wallabies that live here.

Read more: Mt Kaputar National Park is a Bushwalking Mecca

 

Use code ‘WAE15′ for 15% off Best Walks around the Warrumbungles and Mt Kaputar or any other walking guides by Woodslane Press.

 

Photos by @juliegill_photography

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