Please note! Unfortunately, there was a recent death in Tongariro National Park. This is a remote national park that is both an alpine and active volcano area where conditions can change quickly. All Explorers are encouraged to check conditions before heading out and to hike to their abilities. 

 

As one of the ten Great Walks of Aotearoa, the Tongariro Northern Circuit circumnavigates the active Mount Ngāuruhoe. Helen explored this breathtaking region in a three-day solo hike, passing through panoramic alpine landscapes, lush beech forests, and martian-esque terrain.

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Quick Overview

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a 45km loop, located in Tongariro National Park, central North Island, New Zealand. A 4-5 hour drive from either Auckland or Wellington, the intermediate hike takes two to four days to complete.

There are options to camp or stay in huts for each night. Bookings are essential for either option during the tramping season, which runs from late October to April.

 

Quick Facts Tongariro Northern Circuit

Distance: 45km
Duration: 2-4 days
Elevation: 1750m

About the Tongariro Northern Circuit

The circuit is an extended variation of the highly popular Tongariro Alpine Crossing, allowing hikers to take extra time to enjoy the rewarding scenery. 

The trail passes through a diverse range of environments, including rocky volcanic terrain, alpine herb fields, and mossy beech forests. Geology fans will be thrilled with plenty of aged lava flows, sulphurous smoke vents, and vivid blue lakes to ogle.

There are optional side walks on offer at various parts of the 2-4 day hike, including the Taranaki Falls, Tama Lakes, Blue Lake, and Soda Springs.

 

History of Tongariro National Park

Tongariro National Park is home to the active Ruapehu, Ngāuruhoe, and Tongariro volcanoes, all of which are regarded as tapu (sacred) to local Māori. 

The site became the first national park in Aotearoa in 1897, highlighting the importance of this area. This was followed by its entry into the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1993 due to its cultural and natural value.

 

How to Get to the Tongariro Northern Circuit

The trailhead begins and ends at Whakapapa Village, located within the national park.

By Car

Day and overnight parking is available within Whakapapa Village, which can be organised at the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre.

By Train/Bus

Train and bus services to and from Auckland and Wellington pass through National Park Village, 15km from Whakapapa village. 

The Northern Explorer Train has services running north and southbound, three days per week. The trip takes approximately five hours from either big city.

Intercity buses have services running northbound four days per week and southbound five days per week. The trip takes approximately six hours from either Auckland or Wellington.

Local shuttle bus services between the National Park and Whakapapa Villages are available.

 

Skill Level

Advanced

This track requires some hiking experience and gear for overnight camping. 

Although some parts of the trail are boarded and generally well signposted, the overall hike is undulating and uneven, with a steep climb and descent at the Red Crater. Some sections are muddy and slippery, especially during wet weather.

The entire route is exposed, and the weather can be highly erratic. Volcanic risk is always present.

Outside of Whakapapa Village, there’s little to no phone reception. 

 

Essential Gear for the Tongariro Northern Circuit

  • Cutlery
  • Lighter
  • Food for the entire duration of the hike
  • 3L water bladder
  • Sleeping bag
  • First aid kit
  • Hat, sunnies, and sunscreen
  • PLB
  • Clothing for all potential weather (thermals are a must!)
  • Rain gear
  • Hiking boots or trail runners. Lightweight gaiters are also useful
  • Hiking poles – not essential but a godsend for the knees
  • Earplugs – for those sleeping in huts. You’ll get why
  • Rubbish bag – there are no bins along the walk

If staying in the huts, sleeping mats and gas stoves are provided.

Water is available at the huts and campsites, and requires sterilisation.

Read more: Overnight Hiking Packing List with 20+ Essentials

 

What it’s Like to Hike the Tongariro Northern Circuit

Day 1: Whakapapa Village to Waihohonu Hut (travelling anticlockwise)

Distance: 15.4km
Duration: 4-6 hours

I departed from Tongariro National Park via the shuttle bus with nervous anticipation for my first ever solo multi-day hike, and got to the trail head at Whakapapa Village. It was a cool and quiet start, through a small, shady Beech forest, before the walk opened up to a wide expanse of tussock and shrubland. The boardwalk meandered through Wairere Stream, with Mount Ngāuruhoe and Mount Ruapehu casually hanging in the background.

 

 

An hour in, the path forked, giving me the first side quest of the trip to see Taranaki Falls. The track descends to the falls, which tumble over an old lava flow from Ruapehu, casting a cool, fine mist over onlookers. 

Climbing back up to the fork, I continued onwards until I met another side quest – the Tama Lakes. It was a stunning view of both lakes from the top of the upper lake, with each having a varying shade of bold blue.

Back on the circuit, the boardwalks had turned into dirt trails. It was now early arvo, and the sun was razoring down. It was a bit of a slog, so I had several snack breaks along the way to brighten my mood. 

Three hours later, I reached my first abode for the night – the newly constructed and luxurious Waihohonu Hut. I’d spotted some familiar faces chilling around the hut – faces I’d met along the trail – who now became my hiking comrades.

I relished the feeling of kicking off my sweaty hiking shoes, slipped some sandals on, and strolled to the historic Waihohonu Hut and Ohinepango Springs. The springs are tapu, but the sight of the crystal-clear, gently flowing water was plentifully refreshing for the soul.

 

Day 2: Waihohonu Hut to Mangatepopo Hut

Distance: 20.1km
Duration: 7-9 hours

A bleary-eyed, 7am departure began with a trudge through several barren and annoyingly windy valleys and hills, before reaching Oturere Hut, three hours later. If you’re doing a four day hike, you can stop here for a relaxing day exploring the surroundings.

I left the hut after a good rest and long yarn with the hut ranger. The scenic Oturere Valley was scorching hot with the sun right above me. I’d passed through some monstrous, yet stunning, clusters of ragged lava rockforms, which had been slung out from past Red Crater eruptions. 

Then began the painful but picturesque ascent up to the Emerald Lakes. Some parts were a bit scrambly – which was a bit daunting with a heavy pack – but I was rewarded mid-way with fuming yellow sulfur vents.

 

 

I made it to my lunch spot by one of the Emerald lakes, and took in the scenery, watching the ant-like Tongariro Alpine Crossing hikers descending from the Red Crater far in the distance. Thanks to my (deliberately) slow pace, the tail end of the crowd was leaving, which allowed me to take my time to walk up the part I’d feared the most – the steep, loose scree mountainside.

This slope was actually why I decided to hike anti-clockwise, as I knew I’d almost certainly be uncontrollably tumbling with my pack had I approached it from the top of the hill heading down. I began to shuffle up, stopped to catch my breath, then repeated this over and over, until it finally plateaued out. 

I was absolutely buzzing once I reached the top, both for the milestone that I’d achieved, and the epic views I could see of the Emerald and Blue Lakes, the very suggestive Red Crater, and even Lake Taupo in the far distance. The wind up here was no joke though, and within a few minutes I was chilled to the bone. I took this as a sign and began my descent.

 

 

Passing through the Mangatepopo Saddle and into the South Crater valley, I felt very grateful for some flat terrain. The track then became a descent down part of Mount Ngāuruhoe, with the trail floor transitioning to uneven and jagged lava flows.

Eventually I was reunited with tussock landscapes that followed Mangatepopo Stream, all the way to Mangatepopo Hut. I was the last to arrive but was warmly welcomed by a hut full of equally tired but happy hikers. High on adrenaline, a group of us had a high-spirited dinner sharing our stories so far on this little adventure.

Day 3: Mangatepopo Hut to Whakapapa Village

Distance: 9.4km
Duration: 4 hours

I was given a heads up by the clockwise hikers about how muddy and eroded this part of the circuit was, as not only does it cross streams, but the soft, soil path had been worn down by footsteps over time. 

Most sections were fine as I trudged through the undulating, boggy trail, but some parts had eroded nearly two metres down! This required some not-so-strategic butt slides that resulted in a ripped hole in the back of my pants.

 

 

I entered a large, mystical Beech forest, which I knew meant I’d reached the final stretch of the walk. I took this moment to appreciate the hardy plant life growing around me, before arriving back at the trailhead. I was thankful that this muddy section was the last part of the hike, as a warm shower was waiting for me back at my hostel.

Tips For Hiking the Tongariro Northern Circuit

  • Book campsites or huts well in advance during tramping season. Spaces can fill up as early as three months prior
  • Slip, slop, slap! There’s little shade for the majority of the circuit. The nape of my neck learnt that the hard way
  • The weather can be erratic. Layers of clothing are your friend here
  • Take your time. Finishing the circuit is a great accomplishment, but also savour the epic views, geology, and wildlife up close
  • Have fun! Be corny. Say ‘hi’ to your bunk or campsite mates. You’ll be laughing and lamenting about your adventures together in no time!

 

FAQs Tongariro Northern Circuit

What’s the difference between Tongariro Alpine Crossing and Tongariro Northern Circuit?

The most obvious difference is that the Alpine Crossing is a single-day hike, while the Tongariro Nothern Circuit is at usually a three-day hike. Because of this, the Alpine Crossing starts and finishes in different places, which means someone will have to pick you up or you’ll need to do a car shuffle. The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a loop hike which means that you start and finish in the same location (Whakapapa Village).

How long is the Tongariro Northern Circuit?

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is about 45km long.

How hard is the Tongariro Northern Circuit?

The circuit covers difficult terrain, requires overnight camping, and reception is unreliable. It’s recommended for intermediate to advanced hikers. If you haven’t done an overnight hike before, this shouldn’t be at the top of your list.

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