Bikepacking the Savai’i Island Loop, Samoa

Circumnavigate Samoa’s largest island, splitting your time between a bike and a car, starting with the port town of Salelologa.

Savai’i is Samoa’s largest and highest island, accessible from the main island of Upolu by ferry. Drive or cycle this spectacular island for a laid back, rugged, and picturesque insight into Samoan life.

Quick Overview

Samoa’s Savai’i loop is approximately 175km of good quality paved coastal roads, which takes just under 15 hours to cycle. Due to the year-round oppressive tropical heat, most people recommend at least a week to complete the journey – travelling in the cool of the mornings and afternoons, and resting in local fales while the sun is at its peak.

This can be shortened to about four days if you travel by car. You’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the spectacular, empty beaches, snorkelling opportunities, and waterfalls that dot the trail.

Once you arrive you’ll kick yourself if you went for the shorter option

About the Savai’i Bikepacking Loop

Savai’i is much less developed than Upolu, Samoa’s main island, and much of the tourism is provided by local villagers. As residents are heavily dependent on shipments of food and supplies, restaurants and shops may run out of stock if a delivery is late. Patience and flexibility go a long way on Savai’i. But what the island lacks in diversity of goods and menus, it more than makes up for in scenery, culture, and hospitality.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Phwoar, even the roads are beautiful

Savai’i History

Savai’i is the largest and highest island in the Samoan islands chain, but only about 45,000 people call it home today – around a quarter of the Samoan population. Savai’i has been inhabited for thousands of years. Prehistoric settlements have left traces behind, which can be visited today.

While its highest mountain is Mount Silisili – Silisili meaning highest in Samoan – Savai’i’s dominant feature is its active volcano, Mount Matavanu. Matavanu was formed relatively recently in 1905, when an explosive eruption created a spatter cone filled with magma, which eventually spilled over. Several villages were inundated, and people relocated to other parts of Samoa. While no lives were lost, eruptions lasted until 1911. The resulting lava fields and tubes are now one of the main tourist attractions on the island.

Savai’i’s slower pace vibes with Fa’a Samoa – the Samoan culture and way of life. The vast majority of Samoa is private property, owned by large extended families or ‘aiga. Tourist attractions typically command a small payment for entrance. There’s generally someone manning the fort at each stop, ready to guide visitors and share their knowledge.

How to Get to Savai’i, Samoa

Most tourists fly into Faleolo International Airport in Upolu. From there it’s a short drive to Mulifanua Wharf to catch the ferry to Savai’i. If leaving from the Upolu capital Apia, it takes about 45 minutes to drive to the wharf, but it’s best to budget extra time for unanticipated issues. Passengers are expected to be at the terminal at least an hour before departure.

The car and passenger ferries take 60-90 minutes to cross. Buy tickets with cash at the ferry terminal. Our ferry was quite basic, with no toilets, refreshments, or even a roof. Most people either napped in their cars or whatever shade they could find.

Where to Stay in Savai’i

Accommodation in Savai’i covers a range of price points from very expensive luxury hotels and very expensive average hotels (the consequence of needing to ship in most things), to extremely cheap, shore-front local fales.

Fales are simple, family-run, traditional open shacks found on most beaches. Most provide a mattress, pillow, and mosquito nets. Some are enclosed and lockable. A travel sheet and mosquito spray make them more comfortable, but nothing you can bring will beat the breeze and sound of the ocean lapping beneath your bed while you sleep. Breakfast and dinner are often included.

The quickest way to get in tune with island vibes is sleeping in a fale

• Kuki’s By the Harbour is within walking distance of Salelologa Wharf and has a beautiful view over the water, but no beach. Breakfast is included, and there’s a pizza place right across the road. Waking to the sound of singing from the early morning church service next door is something else
• Amoa Resort at Faga offers villas and bungalows in lush, tropical gardens, and a huge pool with a bar, which is perfect for those sticky Savai’i nights. It’s perched on the sea wall with beautiful views across the water with a vast, open restaurant on the deck. Amoa was fully booked when we went, so make sure you book in advance!
• Savaii Lagoon Resort at Fagamalo is perfect beachfront real estate, and our favourite place to stay. Run by a Kiwi-Samoan couple, it has lots of little beach shacks to choose from, and a large deck for (excellent) meals. It also hosts the best fia fia night in Samoa, with traditional songs, dances, and fire twirling. We even tried Kava as part of the experience! Along with a handy ATM, Savai’i’s only dive shop is right across the road
• Le Lagoto Resort and Spa is right next door to Savaii Lagoon Resort, so we didn’t stay here, but we used their waterfront massage service! Having a massage in a private, white-curtained bungalow open to the sea was a spectacular treat – and made us feel fancy! Le Lagoto also has a pool for guests who want a change from swimming in the open water and a more upmarket restaurant that’s open to the public

Skill Level

Intermediate 

Cycling Savai’i will require intermediate skills. This is mostly due to the heat. I strongly recommend that you only set out in the cool of the mornings, and carry a lot of potable water with you. Leave the rest of the day for snorkelling and relaxing in the shade of your fale.

Read more: How To Hike in Hot Weather (which also applies to cycling!)

The only other major hazard is dogs, which can be territorial and aggressive, especially to cyclists. Many people carry sticks to wave at them, which usually does the trick. Yelling ‘Alu!’ – which is ‘go!’ in Samoan, can also work!

If driving, it’s nigh on impossible to get lost as the main road circles the whole island, and there are very few paved roads branching off it.

Nothing on this road trip is mandatory, take the ideas you like and leave the rest

Essential Gear for Visiting Savai’i

• Cash – Booking accommodation in advance can take care of larger expenses, but most places in Savaii operate on a cash-only basis, with very few working ATMs. Smaller notes are handy for entry fees at tourist sites
• Food – Chips, sweet biscuits, and two-minute noodles are readily available, but other products can be hit and miss. Vegetarians are not well catered for but should be able to find at least one dish everywhere. Most restaurants outside of resorts tend to close on Sundays for religious reasons, so plan meals accordingly
• Sunscreen and hat – Note that high-SPF sunscreen can be difficult to find so this is worth bringing with you
• Culturally appropriate clothing – Samoan culture is conservative, and both men and women should have their legs covered to the knee. Shoulders also need to be covered so leave the singlets at home. Most Samoans also swim in clothes. At a resort, two-piece swimsuits are fine, but make sure you cover up on the beaches with long sleeves and bike pants to the knee
• Snorkelling gear and bike equipment – While sports equipment is available to rent or buy in Samoa, quality varies. If there’s a piece of kit that’ll make your trip more enjoyable (like an emergency bike repair kit!) bring it with you

Read more: A Guide To Reef & Ocean Safe Sunscreen

What It’s Like to Bikepack & Drive Savai’i Island

Exploring Savai’i with the freedom of our rental car was the highlight of our Samoa trip. The landscapes, creeping jungle and long, empty beaches are like nowhere else on earth. With prehistoric cultural artefacts literally by the side of the road, a volcano, and stunning Samoan sunsets, Savai’i is truly magical.

Even postcards struggle to look this good

Arrival – Mulifanua Wharf, Upolu to Salelologa, Savai’i

Even the 90-minute ferry ride to Savai’i is an incredible journey. As the huge boat pulled away from the wharf, the palm-fringed beaches of Upolu receded into the distance.

Only palangis (foreigners) seem interested in the view from the ferry (for the Samoans it’s routine or de rigeur), but what a view it is! The mountains fade quickly behind the boat as it passes smaller islands – the ocean stretching out ahead towards Savai’i. Every shade of blue imaginable can be found on the trip, from the lightest turquoise to deep navy and aquamarine. It’s relieved only by the deep tropical greens of the big island growing in size up ahead.

The ferry ride is the perfect start to any Savai’i adventure, which is lucky because it’s kind of a non-negotiable.

Day 1 – Salelologa to Fagamalo

Distance: 48km
Travel Time: 1 hour by car / 4 hours 20 minutes by bike

This leg of the route weaves through Savai’i villages, where you can see the influence of religion with a variety of churches that have popped up like mushrooms. Some are very grand, while others have papaya trees growing from the roof.

People take great pride in their country, with many flying the red, white, and blue Samoan flag on their homes and land. Gardens are gardening-show-worthy with neat lawns and edges. Some matais (village chiefs) decree specific days dedicated to keeping grounds as neat as a pin.

The London Missionary Church was in the path of the lava flow in the 1905 eruptions, and the bones of the church still stand, with cooled black ripples of lava surrounding it. Only the Virgin’s Grave – the burial site of either a High Chief’s daughter or a nun – was spared when the lava flowed around it.

It’s claimed that it was untouched as ‘the girl was so pure’. Entry is ten tala for adults and five tala for children. This is about $5AUD and $2.50AUD respectively.

We’re calling this dilapidated chic

Day 2 – Fagamalo and Surrounds

It’s worth staying in Fagamalo for at least two nights for an incredible turtle snorkelling experience. Head out with Olaf from Dive Savai’i, Samoa’s only active scuba shop. In the waters off Fagamalo, you’ll likely snorkel with turtles, including Tomoko, who loves to closely inspect all visitors.

Want more underwater adventures? Check Out Australia’s Cocos (Keeling) Islands

The sentinel of the sea, Tomoko the turtle | Shot by Robyn Thornley

Day 3 – Fagamalo to Asau

Distance: 40km
Travel Time: 50 minutes by car/ 3 hours 20 minutes by bike

This packed day is all about lava tubes and local legends. Source a local guide to take you to Paia Dwarf’s Cave, a tiny opening in the middle of an overgrown field. It opens up into a generous cavern, leading way down into the bowels of the earth, through pools of water. There’s some evidence of prehistoric habitation.

Another underground adventure is Pe’ape’a Cave home to hundreds of White-rumped swiftlets that use clicking noises to navigate in the dark.

Then explore the La’auolola Lava Tube Caves and forest walk, set in a gorgeous rainforest. A guide will point out different types of plants before you reach the lava tube cave.

Day 4 – Asau to Falealupo

Distance: 32km
Travel Time: 40 minutes by car/ 1 hour 35 minutes by bike

The Falealupo Canopy Walkway was closed for repairs when we visited, but the surrounding wildlife conservation area is a cool 400m stroll through dense trees, with helpful plaques identifying local plants and birds. 

Day 5 – Falealupo and Surrounds

Spend two nights in Falealupo, using your accommodation as a base while you explore ancient historical sites such as the Star Mound, the Giant’s Cave, and the Blood Well legends. These are all within a few kilometres of Falealupo.

The beaches in this area are spectacular, as is the sunset at Cape Mulinuu. The Cape is the western tip of Samoa where, according to local legend, the dead used to enter the underworld. The entrance fee is ten tala (about $5AUD), but don’t be surprised if you’re asked for more.

It’s amazing to find beaches – like this one at Falealupo – completely empty

Day 6 – Falealupo to Satuiatua

Distance: 36km
Travel Time: 45 minutes by car/ 3 hours 10 minutes by bike

Stop for a dip at the gorgeous Faiaai beach, and cool off with a fresh coconut. Or head into the centre of the island to explore the mountains and hiking options.

Day 7 – Satuiatua to Palauli

Distance: 42km
Travel Time: 30 minutes by car/ 3 hours 30 minutes by bike

The Alofaaga Blowholes are one of the most impressive natural sights on the island and are not to be missed. They are a tremendous display of nature’s force. Take a side trip to the Pulemelei Ancient Mound, a significant archaeological site.

Watch where you step!

Day 8 – Palauli to Salelologa

Distance: 30km
Travel Time: 35 minutes by car/ 50 minutes by bike

Just outside of Palauli are the Afu Aau Waterfalls, popular with the locals for a swim and picnic. Clamber up the boulders at the base and let the water pummel your shoulders for a free, nature-based massage.

On your way back to the port is the Siapo Demonstration, an interactive traditional craft experience. Also called tapa cloth, siapo is made by bashing mulberry tree fibre into a textile, and then using natural pigments to paint a pattern. Siapo are traditionally exchanged in ceremonies, marriages, and funerals.

Upon arrival back into Salelologa, don’t forget to stop by the market for handmade souvenirs and local snacks for the ferry ride back to Upolu.

Tips For Bikepacking & Driving Savai’i Island

• Be mindful that most attractions and restaurants are closed on Sundays
• Check with your accommodation if they have a fia fia night, or a traditional meal (such as an umu – where food is cooked in the ground). You don’t want to miss that!
• If you’re planning to hire a car, make sure to organise this in advance as they book out fast. It’s customary to leave your passport with the car hire as a deposit, so take a photo of it to show when you’re checking into your accommodation
• There are little to no safety precautions in Savai’i, or indeed in Samoa. Ocean swimmers can encounter rips and other dangers but there aren’t any lifeguards. Tourist infrastructure is not regulated by international standards. If you’re unsure about the safety of an activity, don’t participate
• Don’t do any of the community-based tourism activities without paying, or without a guide. The caves can be dangerous, so always explore with a guide, and bring a powerful torch. The torches provided are not strong
• A local lavalava (sarong) serves as a wrap in the cooler evenings, to cover shoulders, and as a sheet when staying in beach fales
• Check in with the tourism office to see what attractions are available during your visit. Kayaking in the mangroves and koko plantation tours are available sporadically – you may be lucky! Lots of accommodation providers have kayaks, including traditional outriggers, but bring your own snorkel and mask as quality can vary

Don’t get so caught up in ticking off your to-do list that you forget to enjoy the moments as they happen

FAQs Savai’i Bikepacking Trip

Where is Samoa?

Samoa is located in the South Pacific Ocean, pretty close to Australia, roughly halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand. It consists of two main islands, Upolu and Savai’i.

What language is spoken on Savai’i Island, Samoa?

The local language on Savai’i Island is Samoan.

Is Samoa more expensive to visit than Fiji or the Cook Islands?

Nope! Samoa is considered to be more affordable to visit than Fiji, and it’s on par with the Cook Islands.

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