Christmas Island: An Adventure Guide to One of Australia’s Most Distant Islands

You might only know Christmas Island for its road-crossing red crabs, but it’s so much more than that. After three months of living on the island, Benjamin is spilling all the secrets on how to have an unforgettable adventure.

Quick Overview

Christmas Island is its own territory located 350km south of Java and 2,600km north-west of Perth. It is home to a multicultural community of 1,700 people and features stunning cliffs, beaches, coral reef, and an ancient rainforest.

The stunning coastline of Christmas Island

About Christmas Island

As one of Australia’s youngest territories, Christmas Island is probably as different as you can get to the Australia you know.

The 135 square kilometre island is 60% national park and features a spectacular array of towering cliffs, picture-perfect beaches, stunning coral reefs, and untouched rainforests.

To top it off, the island is home to a community of 1,700 people of Chinese, Malay, and Australian descent. And they’re the most welcoming people you’ll ever meet.

Christmas Island is a small community of just under 2,000 people

History of Christmas Island

After rising out of the ocean as the tip of a volcano 60 million years ago, Christmas Island was discovered in 1615 and named some years after when Captain William Mynors sailed past it on Christmas Day: a classic British captain’s tale.

After discovering phosphate deposits, the British Crown took control of the island until 1958 when it was placed under the official authority of the Commonwealth of Australia at a bargain price of $20 million! Since then, the island has received attention for multiple immigration-related conflicts and the occasional David Attenborough documentary.

The vibrant community that lives here today developed thanks to the Chinese and Malay workers relocated here during early phosphate mining operations.

The remnants of previous industry are evident

How to Get to Christmas Island

To fly to Christmas Island directly, take a Virgin flight from Perth on Tuesdays, or the ‘scenic route’ on Fridays with a stopover via the Cocos-Keeling Islands. The direct flight will take you four hours and set you back anything from $800 return.

Alternatively, you can catch the supply ship from Fremantle, but that’ll take you two weeks and you might not stop at the island at all (oops).

Where to Stay on Christmas Island

While this isn’t a luxury resort island, there is accommodation available ranging anywhere from a hostel-style stay up to an all-inclusive rainforest lodge with a view and private chef.

These are mostly located in the main settlement area and will set you back anywhere from $75 to $1000 a night, so take your pick!

Camping is also allowed in certain parts of the national park, but more on that below.

Pitch a tent in a designated camping area

Where to Eat on Christmas Island

This is a tough one and requires some compromise. Groceries on-island are exorbitant ($12 zucchinis anyone?) and fresh food is often limited.

Restaurant opening times change often but as a quick guide, check out the Malay Club and the Cla Cafe in Kampong village for local cuisine and the Golden Bosun for a more western pub experience.

Hot tip! Many locals check in extra bags or styrofoam boxes with food at the airport, so if you need your protein that might be an option. However, your second luggage piece often only arrives on the next flight.

Things to Do on Christmas Island

The Dog’s Head: Swims, Sights, and Sunrise Drives

You might have noticed the island is shaped like a dog, with the main village area being referred to as the dog’s head.

Also called Kampong Village or Flying Fish Cove, this part of the island features a beautiful beach and a pier to jump straight into an untouched coral reef for some snorkelling. The drop-off is visited by dolphins, manta rays, and sometimes even Whale sharks.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

There’s also an island museum, Tai Jin House, actively used Chinese temples, and historical artwork to discover. From here you can also join a variety of tours around diving, hiking or photography.

From Kampong, you can follow the coastal road north and then east to get to a swimming hole, known as The Grotto, a golf course, a beautiful coastline, and finally to Ethel and Lily Beach. These are great spots for a walk, swim or snorkel, especially during sunrise!

The Grotto

Exploring Christmas Island National Park

So it’s Saturday morning, you just finished your Nasi Lemak at the Malay Club and you’re ready for some real adventure.

Enter Christmas Island National Park: your gateway to the wilderness and a variety of hiking, snorkelling, and 4WD adventures.

Greta Beach track

It all depends on how grubby you want to get, so here are the top spots of CINP in order of grubbiness.

Hot tip! Before you head out, make sure to let someone know where you’re going and download the maps.me app with the WA map overlay. This will allow you to track your location without internet/reception.

Soak in Sunrise at Margaret Knoll Lookout

While this lookout will only open again in early 2024, it’s only a short drive south from the village and therefore minimally grubby. Stop by during sunrise for spectacular views over the coast and rainforest.

Look Into the Past at the South Point Settlement Remains

At the southern tip of the island you’ll find South Point. This was Christmas Island’s major settlement and phosphate mining area until 1974.

South Point ruins

Take a wander through settlement ruins, past overgrown train tracks, and a Chinese temple still used today. This spot also features another stunning lookout.

Hear the Call of the Ocean at the Blowholes

Slightly north-west of South Point you’ll get to the blowholes. Come here during an incoming tide and witness the ocean and limestone cliffs conduct a symphony like only Mother Nature can produce.

Ocean waves crash against limestone karst eroded over millennia and force escaping air through narrow gaps. This results in a saltwater spray accompanied by a howling which will elicit the best kind of chills.

To top it off, the blowholes are also beautifully lit during sunset, making them the perfect spot to end the day.

Practice Your Scrambling at West White Beach

By continuing onto North-West point road, you’ll soon see the West White Beach car park. This walk takes a fit person 30 minutes each way and goes steeply downhill at times, so get ready for a sweat bath!

Accounting for heat and humidity, I recommend taking at least two litres of water and some snacks. Enjoy the picturesque rainforest and array of crabs on the way down (but don’t let them nip you!).

Once there, you have a stunning beach to yourself with opportunities for a longer walk or a snorkel on the reef!

Explore the Famous Dales (Ramsar-listed Wetlands)

Right opposite West White Beach car park you’ll find the island’s most treasured rainforest and a Ramsar Wetland of international significance!

The walks to Hughs and Andersons Dale are easier than West White Beach but can take longer. They feature picturesque freshwater streams, waterfalls, and communities of crabs on full display.

Further along from the Dales car park, you’ll also find the track to Merriel Beach, which I personally consider the hidden gem of all beaches.

Get the Full Adventure Package at Greta and Dolly Beach

This spot requires a workout but is also my favourite as it combines all major activities on-island. A few minutes’ drive south of Margaret Knoll Lookout and you can access the 4WD track to Greta and Dolly Beaches, which is the bumpiest and steepest track on Christmas Island (and the most fun).

Dolly Beach track

Greta Beach car park comes up first, with the beach only five minutes’ walk further on. Once there, descend the metal stairs and enjoy the serenity.

Dolly Beach involves a 30 minute walk each way and ducking under fallen trees. Camping is allowed at the beach and you might even spot nesting or hatching turtles at night. However, this also means fires are a no-go.

Hot tip! Behind some rocks on the right side of Greta Beach you can find postcard-worthy rock pools during low tide. Similarly, low tide reveals rock pools right in the middle of Dolly Beach.

Some Christmas Island Crabs on Dolly Beach

What it’s Like to Visit Christmas Island

It truly feels as wild as entering Jurassic Park, yet the community is incredibly warm and welcoming to visitors. There’s virtually no crime on the island, with people leaving keys in cars and front doors unlocked.

Everyone here has a close relationship with nature, as they depend directly on it. Overall, it is the perfect adventure destination, with the only caveats being cost and options for eating out.

A place where people, place and culture collide

Tips for Visiting Christmas Island

• If you’re ever unsure about road or weather conditions at the spots listed above, check in at the Parks Australia office in Drumsite for updated info
• Weather can change rapidly on the island, so pack that raincoat even if it’s sunny out.
• Travel as a group where possible and stay on the main tracks. The jungle gets incredibly thick, and I’ve become lost walking only 50 metres off the path

Lily Beach

Christmas Island FAQs

Is there phone reception/internet on Christmas Island?

There’s Telstra phone reception in the main settlement area and on some of the island’s highest points or capes. However, there’s no mobile internet and WiFi availability will depend on your accommodation.

Is Christmas Island in a different time zone?

Christmas Island is on Western Indonesia time (in summer one hour behind Perth and four hours behind Sydney)

Is Christmas Island an international destination?

Yes and no. It’s part of Australia, but you’ll depart from the international terminal and it’s also a duty-free zone, so make sure to leave space for a cheeky bottle of gin on the way home!

Are there dangerous animals on Christmas Island?

There’s nothing out here to threaten your life. However, watch out for the Giant centipede in the rainforests – its bite can hurt a tonne! Also keep an eye out for Wolf snakes (mildly venomous) and Tiger sharks (very rarely seen).