Isthmus Peak is the Quieter Neighbour of Wanaka’s Famous Roys Peak

Want to escape the masses of Roys Peak but still keen for a spicy day hike in Tititea/Mount Aspiring National Park with 360º views? Look no further than across The Neck at Isthmus Peak.

Quick Overview

The out-and-back Isthmus Peak track is 16km that can be hiked or mountain biked. Set in the Otago region of Aotearoa/New Zealand, the track is only a 25 minute drive from Wānaka.

Isthmus Peak Facts

Distance: 16km return
Duration: 4-5 hours return
Elevation gain: 1,155m
Nearest town: Lake Hāwea and Wānaka

About Isthmus Peak

Whether you hike or mountain bike, the Isthmus Peak track will reward you with views of Aotearoa’s classic mountains and lakes in every direction. The zig-zaggy trail is close to Wānaka and Lake Hāwea townships but doesn’t seem to receive as much attention as its famous neighbour, Roys Peak. This makes it the perfect day hike for those seeking some quiet.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Isthmus Peak History

Waitaha people, Ngāti Mamoe and Ngāi Tahu communities had set up kāinga nohoanga/settlements along Lake Hāwea’s shores. The eastern side of the narrow isthmus that separates Lake Wānaka and Lake Hāwea, known as Manuhaea/The Neck, was a culturally significant kāinga nohoanga. It was an important mahinga kai/food gathering place and wāhanga/school of learning for Māori passing by seasonally. 

Now, Isthmus Peak lies next to the Matatiaho Conservation Area, which was negotiated in 2008 with the Glen Dene Station, a working high country farm. 

How to Get to Isthmus Peak

There are two small car parks at the beginning of the Isthmus Peak track – Isthmus Peak Track parking and Isthmus Peak Trail small parking. The car parks are a 15 minute drive from Lake Hāwea township and 25 minutes drive from Wānaka along State Highway 6. Cross the road safely to access the trailhead. 

Where to Stay near Isthmus Peak

Camping isn’t permitted on the Isthmus Peak trail. If you do the Glen Dene Ridge track, camping is allowed once you hit the Matatiaho Conservation Area boundary.

One of the many beauties of the Isthmus Peak trail is its accessibility from Wānaka. There are plenty of campsites, caravan parks, hostels, and hotels to suit every budget in the popular town. Lake Hāwea township is a lot smaller, with a couple of Airbnbs and hotels, and a picturesque holiday park by the lake’s shore.

Skill Level

Intermediate

Aotearoa/New Zealand’s Department of Conservation rates the hike as an ‘advanced tramping track’ (challenging day hike for people with moderate to high levels of fitness and backcountry skills) while the mountain bike trail is rated as ‘expert: Grade 5’ (technically challenging with difficult obstacles).

While the hike up will have you puffing at times, the track is clearly marked with parts of it following a well-graded 4WD track used for the farm. You’ll be upright the whole way (no rock scrambles required) and the switchbacks make the hike up manageable.

The track isn’t wheelchair accessible. There aren’t any water sources along the way so pack plenty of water.

Essential Gear

• Hiking boots or shoes
• Sun protection (hat/long sleeves)
• Waterproof jacket
• Water
• Snacks (can’t go wrong with a Weka bar and Whittaker’s)

What It’s Like to Hike Isthmus Peak

Flat, lazy beginnings

It was a lazy start to the day as my husband and I grabbed an Australian standard coffee at Mo’s caravan before pulling into the parking lot around 10am. With a few cars already parked, I was worried that Isthmus Peak would be as crowded as its notorious neighbour. But as we began walking along the flat path that overlooked a farm, there wasn’t a person in sight.

Rocky Forest

Around 1km in, the soft paddocks gave way to a rocky climb up through a forest. I could hear birds tittering and the distant swooshes of Dinner Creek flowing in the gorge. I also heard whooping – a couple of mountain bikers were having the time of their lives on their way down.

Sheep and Bunkers

We reached a flat section through a farm, watching the seemingly teeny sheep gather in the paddocks below and wondering who on earth owned the futuristic, bunker-looking house down there. This narrow path led to a 4WD track, as some of the trail is on private land. Normally a vehicle track would bore me, but this one was wedged between dense gnarly trees with deer occasionally rustling through. 

Zig-Zagging Our Way Up

Once we were out of the woods, the zig-zags started. With no shortage of viewpoints on the exposed switchbacks, I stopped many times to take in the view of Lake Hāwea glittering in the valley (and also to catch my breath from the unrelenting upward climb). The razorback ridge to the right reminded me of a dinosaur’s back, ancient, massive, and intimidating.

The zig-zags tightened as it got steeper, lulling us into a false sense of hope with a false summit. We started to see a couple more people scattered along on the trail, and gave them all an obligatory hiker’s hello.

T-Junction Views

The trees started to disappear to make way for tufts of shrubs. Just past the drop toilet, we approached the T-junction on the ridge. 360º views of awesomeness greeted us.

To the north was our destination, Isthmus Peak, to the east lay Lake Hāwea with Corner Peak and Breast Hill looming in the background. The south revealed the 12km Glen Dene Ridge track and the west looked onto the majestic Kā Tiritiri o te Moana/Southern Alps. 

Summit Success

A couple of tiny uphills later, and we reached the summit. As per our tradition, my husband and I ate a celebratory summit Snickers while we paused to take inventory of our magical surroundings.

It was peaceful; there was only one other couple around. No lines to grab a snap for the ‘gram, no hordes making a racket (looking at you Roys). Even though the wind battered down on us, we were able to enjoy a solid bit of reflection time without any interruption.

Treat Yo’self

We braced our knees for the downhill action, knowing that we had to go down the way we’d come up. As we descended, our bodies started to feel the heat of the stunning bluebird day, which made Lake Hāwea look deliciously enticing. 

Giving into temptations, we drove 15 minutes south to the Lake Hāwea boat ramp and jumped straight in, squealing as we hit the frigid water. Nothing beats a refreshing dip after a sweaty hike. Except, maybe, chicken wings. We quickly dried off at our Airbnb and headed to Winging It for dinner. These were hands down the best wings I’ve had in my life. Now, nothing could truly beat that day. 

Tips for Hiking Isthmus Peak

• The track crosses private land on Glen Dene Station. Respect the landowner’s livestock and property by staying on the designated track and leaving gates as you find them
• Glen Dene Station allows for safari hunting. Be alert during the March to May hunting season
• The track is closed from the 20th of November to 20th of December for fawning each year
• Most of the track is exposed so pack sun protection and a waterproof jacket to hold off the elements
• There are two drop toilets along the trail, one at the beginning and one along the top ridge, so there’s no need to hold it in
• Indulge in a sauna sesh after your hike at The Secret Sauna, only a 15 minute drive from the trailhead. Book well in advance as it’s a not-so-secret spot!

FAQs Isthmus Peak

How long does it take to walk the Isthmus Peak?

The walk to Isthmus Peak and back takes around 4-5 hours.

Is Isthmus Peak or Roys Peak better?

Both mountain peaks offer comparable 360º views across New Zealand’s stunning mountains and lakes. Roys Peak is more well known and busier, so if you’re looking for a less crowded trail and view point, Isthmus Peak is the better choice.

Is the Isthmus Peak track any good?

Absolutely! The Isthmus Peak track grants beautiful vistas across Lake Hāwea and the surrounding mountain range. On a clear day, the views are amazing.

Where to start Isthmus Peak hike?

The Isthmus Peak hike starts just across the road from the Isthmus Peak Track parking and Isthmus Peak Trail small parking on Makarora Lake Hāwea Road, outside of Lake Hāwea town.

Photos by Chagi Weerasena and Kieran O’Loughlin