Howmans Gap Circuit is a 74km Showstopper in the Victorian High Country

Despite its proximity to nearby developments, you won’t have to dish out big bucks for busy campsites on the 74km Howmans Gap Circuit in alpine Victoria. Taylor shows us how to tackle this trail in four days.

We Are Explorers acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of the Countries on which these adventures take place, who have occupied and cared for these lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Quick Overview

The Howmans Gap Circuit is a 74km loop hike that starts and ends just outside Falls Creek in Victoria. It’s your ticket to ride the high plains. It’s your front row seat to the sunset over Mount Bogong. It’s your chance to bag six of Victoria’s ten highest peaks. It’s got my favourite valley in all of Australia. How lucky!

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Do other people not keep lists of their favourite valleys?!

On top of this, a delectable mix of dispersed camping and historic huts denotes a movable feast of free, panoramic camping options the whole way. Get in while you can.

Quick Facts

Distance: 74km loop
Duration: 4 days, 3 nights
Elevation gain: Approximately 1,800m
Nearest town: Falls Creek, Victoria

About the Howmans Gap Circuit

They paved over paradise and put up a camping platform. At least, in some of paradise. But not quite all of it.

If the logistics and costs of the Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing aren’t your bag, then this nearby route is the remedy. It utilises many of the same tracks as the F2H, as well as the Australian Alps Walking Track, but opts for some of the quieter, lesser-frequented stops along the way. Plus you get to bag a few peaks and don’t have to worry about car shuttles either.

The views from Mt Nelse might be my favourite in all of the High Country

History of the Howmans Gap Circuit

This circuit is nestled in the heart of the High Country; a place riddled with its own legacy. It’s a patchwork of historical efforts – both to conserve, conquer, and convert it in every direction.

The broader High Country area is the ancestral home of many First Nations groups including the Yorta Yorta, Duduroa, Pangerang, Taungurung, Minjambuta, and Jaimathang peoples and Mt Bogong in particular was long a meeting place for many groups who gathered to trade, perform ceremony, and feast of Bogong moths.

While the eponymous gap of which the trail takes its name, also nods to this history, however no amount of my internet sleuthing could even disclose who this fabled ‘Howman’ – who has both a waterfall AND this gap named after them – even is (please comment below if you have any related information).

This circuit also has a curious ecological history. In the very aptly named ‘Pretty Valley,’ picturesque braided streams were formed by ancient Pleistocene glaciers. It’s home to a bunch of super-nerdy yet super-interesting microtopographies.

And it’s also home to one of Australia’s longest-running ecological experiments: the exclusion plots that Maisie Fawcett erected in the 1940s to document the detrimental impact of cattle grazing in the High Country. The fences still stand today, and now serve to exemplify what the native ecosystem of the Bogong High Plains would look like if cattle, and now deer, weren’t present.

Wetland habitats like these are particularly susceptible to trampling by our hooved amigos

How to Get to Howmans Gap Circuit

Assuming you have a car, the most natural starting point for this hike is 4km down the road from Falls Creek, at the Howmans Gap Alpine Discovery Camp. There’s plenty of parking around the complex, and you can always check with staff if you’re wondering where to park.

If you don’t have a car, then this is another entry in the long-running list of beautiful places in Australia that are essentially inaccessible by public transport. Still waiting on that summer bus line to make someone a millionaire.

Where to Stay on the Howmans Gap Circuit

Part of a great adventure is experiencing the entire spectrum of discomfort, right?! You can always ball out for a cabin at the Howmans Gap Discovery Centre or like, a condo or something, in Falls Creek; but the adventurous budget option, and my recommendation, is to leave your car parked at the Pretty Valley Pondage and Hut. That way, if you’re arriving late, you can simply camp for free at the Pretty Valley Hut and start your hike from there. Double bonus means you get to experience Pretty Valley twice.

Looking back at the pondage…longingly

Once you’re on trail, the route passes by multiple backcountry huts every day that have glorious clearings for a night under the stars. No bookings required.

Otherwise, one of my favourite parts about Alpine National Park is that dispersed camping is still legal anywhere more than 200m from a road. Find a nice little hill, maybe one that’s named after a guy named Jim, and set up for sunset.

Skill Level

Intermediate-Advanced

A bit of backpacking experience is recommended for this one. There are some serious climbs that are nothing to sniff at. Rocky Valley up to Spion Kopje starts at an essentially vertical angle. The ants had reclaimed the majority of that trail as well, so it was tough to find a place to have a break.

Otherwise, part of the fun of this circuit is bagging a few peaks along the way, and although they’re treeless and open, there’s not a real trail up to many of them. On top of this, the route cobbles together a few different twists and turns along different fire trails, so it’s best to have a bit of navigation/backcountry knowledge under your belt already.

Read more: Navigating With a Map & Compass

No trail needed to find your way up most of the peaks

Essential Gear for the Howmans Gap Circuit

• Waterproof jacket (you’re lucky if it rains only once)
• A solid map and this handy .GPX on Gaia or Caltopo
• SPF50, hat, and fun sunglasses
• First aid kit
• Water filter and at least 4L carrying capacity
• A warm sleeping bag even in summer
• PLBs are always a win. Although Telstra providers get decent reception for most of this hike
• Microfibre towel for secret, clandestine cold plunges
• Shovel

Read more: How To Poo in The Bush

What It’s Like to Hike the Howmans Gap Circuit

This hike has as many entry/exit points as a mixmaster in Texas. It’s got so many campsites and huts that you can adjust your mileage and days to fit your own starting point. For the sake of staying true to the route’s name, I’m choosing to start from Howmans Gap, but you could just as easily start from Pretty Valley and make the same campsites.

Read more: Alpine Back Country Winter Safety

Day 1 – Howmans Gap to Edmondsons/Johnstons Hut

Distance: 15km
Duration: 5-7 hours (this factors in the side-quests for peak bagging and swimming)
Elevation gain: 850m

The day wastes no time, and begins with a sharp descent down to Rocky Valley Creek, where a stoic log offers the safest crossing. I know what you’re thinking, but trust me: it doesn’t matter how early it is, you know you should swim. Just do it. You won’t regret it.

You may as well be on a Stairmaster as you climb the other side of the creek. But it’s not too long before joining the Spion Kopje fire trail. This is a slightly-more-forgivingly graded trail that dumps you above treeline with the diminutive and superlative Spion Kopjes. Take your time because it’s as brutal as anything you’ll do on this whole circuit.

Crossing the log over Rocky Valley Creek

From the top of Spion Kopje you stand equally between the summit cairn of Mount Bogong and the sauvignon blancs of Falls Creek. Truly between two worlds.

From this point the high plains start and hardly end again. The ridgeline meanders like a senile uncle all the way to the three Nelses. These are peaks whose summits are, although extremely un-taxing, extremely rewarding. Each Nelse summit is nestled among the epicentre of Victoria’s other highest peaks (and are 3rd, 5th, and 7th on their own).

After a bit of bagging and a bit of snacking, make your way down to either Edmondsons or Johnstons Hut for a warm dinner (or sad, austere cold-soaked dinner if you’re an ounce-counting sociopath like me) in the clearings of either campsite.

Both huts are ridiculously quaint, but in a very…tiny…way. So it’s better to just plan on maximising that meadow time.

Read more: Victorian High Country Huts Association

Johnstons Hut still holding the award for most cottagecore place in all of the High Country

Day 2 – Edmondsons/Johnstons Hut to Pretty Valley Hut

Distance: 20km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation Gain: 208m

Interestingly, according to the topo map, Johnstons Hut and Pretty Valley Hut sit at the EXACT same elevation. So it doesn’t matter which way you’re walking, it’s 208m up and 208m down.

Leaving Johnstons Hut, the trail presently joins the AAWT and Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing and suddenly there’s a noticeable uptick in both human presence and development. Can’t complain too much though, because it’s easy walking all day. Wallaces Hut, Bogong Rover Chalet, Cope Hut, and Cope Saddle Hut are all quite scenic in their own respects. But my favourite part of this day was the side-quest off towards Wallaces Hut, where you can visit Maisie’s Pretty Valley Plot.

It’s actually easier to find than this photo would have you imagine lmao

From Cope Saddle Hut, another fire trail cuts down the main artery of Pretty Valley. Braided streams reflect the afternoon light below. Herons, egrets, ducks, and all kinds of precious waterfowl abound. Gazing down the sloping walls of the valley towards the pondage, it’s almost easy to imagine the giant glacier that once sculpted this area.

Pretty Valley Hut has 2WD access so it’s very possible you’ll have some neighbours at your campsite, but the spot is so idyllic that you can’t blame anyone for wanting to enjoy such a beautiful place. Plus the camping area is extra large, so you can snore like a chainsaw in peace.

Make sure to share your solar charging space with the resident skinks

Day 3 – Pretty Valley Hut to Bogong Jack Saddle/Hut

Distance: 20km (side trip up Jaithmathang included in this)
Duration: 6-8 hours
Elevation Gain: 522m

Long climbs are always easier when they’re beautiful. When you can see the goal at the end it somehow makes it more obtainable, doesn’t it? Imagine if you couldn’t see the carrot dangling in front of you. It’s easy to forget you’re even going uphill on the way to Tawonga Huts and the side trail up Jaithmathang. This area, to me, feels like the true beating heart of the high plains. People probably elegised the exact spot where you’re standing in at least one bush ballad. Banjo Patterson definitely wrote about that cloud. How could anyone resist?!

A dude probably definitely wrangled a brumby here once

Tawonga Huts are situated in a small saddle at the foot of Jaithmathang. Each hut is extremely small but aesthetically 10/10, and the clearing itself makes for unlimited camp potential if needed. It might behoove you to fill up your water for the rest of the day here as well, because there isn’t anything reliable between Tawonga Huts and Fainter Creek.

Read more: Comparing Different Methods of Treating and Purifying Water on the Trail

How’s the day looking? If the weather and time are permitting, then I highly recommend another side quest. If your nav skills are dialled in, it’s time for a fun bit of wayfinding. From the summit of Jaithmathang it’s probably just as easy and feasible to make your way across the Fainters ridgeline as it is to descend back down the fire trail.

The ridge stays above treeline, with drinkable views of both Feathertop and Bogong on either side. You can pop over to The Dulugar, The Rook, and The Bap on your way over to Fainter South and North. Tread lightly though; because if you don’t they might be obliged to put a boardwalk up here one day.

After surviving the Fainters, a short descent takes you down to Bogong Saddle where Victoria’s saddest little hut is hidden. It’s barely more than a cube of corrugated aluminium. You’re effusively greeted by a permanently ajar, hingeless door. The wind rustles some shredded insulation and old tarpaulins. A three-legged, somehow burnt, plastic chair lays on its side like a beached whale. This is Bogong Jack Hut.

The wabi-sabi part of me loves it to death. Regardless of how this piece of history makes you feel, the clearing at the saddle is substantial, and has great camping and views back towards Spion Kopje and Bogong.

Bogong Jack in the snow

Day 4 – Bogong Jack Saddle/Hut to Howmans Gap

Distance: 19km
Duration: 5-6 hours
Elevation Gain: 273m

Sometimes it’s less about the moment and more about finishing the hike. Getting the thing done. That’s kinda how this section feels, as it’s a pretty uneventful descent from Bogong Jack down the Fainter fire trail. The same can be said for the long, winding Mackay Creek Fire Track, which crosses good water at both Fainter and Pretty Valley Creek. Let your enthusiasm carry you forward as you link up with the Power Station Road and, eventually, Bogong High Plains Road.

A short, sorta dangerous, walk on the shoulder of the BHP Road closes things out as it brings you back to Howmans Gap. Now you can finally crack that finishing beer that’s been staying cool under your front seat, just waiting for this extremely opportune moment!!! Go on!! May your car’s engine turn over on the first try. May you remember where you put your keys.

Even the Fainter Fire Trail has pretty sweet views though

How Much Hot Beta Can You Get for the Howmans Gap Circuit

• If you’ve put in your time in the High Country before, I’d say this hike is a very manageable three day/two night haul. One way to do it is Howmans -> Cope -> Bogong Jack ->Howmans
• Wayfinding and wild camping are still legal in Alpine National Park. Please help keep it that way by leaving no trace, because the wild aspect of this hike is precisely what sets it apart from its nearby counterparts <3
• Swimming is permitted in Pretty Valley Pondage. If it’s sunny, you know what that means
• On that note, I’d say it’s possible to sneak in a cold plunge at Cope Saddle Hut too. You know what? I think I’m just gonna put a microfibre towel as an essential item

Not sure you could dry off inside Cope Saddle Hut though, so hopefully it’s more sunny for you

FAQs Howmans Gap Circuit

When is the best time to hike the Howmans Gap Circuit?

A weekday.

(Just joking, but also…seriously. The drawbacks of a 9-5).

To maximize fun and swimming and wildflowers, hit the circuit sometime between December and February. The snowless season runs from about November to April though, if you’re trying to avoid crowds.

The only place you can really expect to be busy will be along the F2H and at Pretty Valley Hut on weekends. Otherwise I wouldn’t expect too many intrepid walkers to be out on most of this track.

If you’re lucky, there’ll probably still be some snowy peaks in November

How do I get to the trailhead?

You could start this hike from at least five different spots. Wallaces Hut, Cope Hut, Howmans Gap, Pretty Valley Hut, and Big Hill car park all have overnight parking options. Maybe even Bogong Village. All of these are also 2WD accessible as well. No excuses!

High Country Hikes to Keep the Party Going

• The Bogong High Plains Traverse – 5 Totally Maxed-Out Days Through the Heart of the Victorian Alps
• Mt Bogong – A Guide to Hiking The Huts and Spurs of Victoria’s Highest Peak
• The Hotham Huts Walk is The First Walk I’ve Finished That I Immediately Wanted to Start Again
• The Viking Circuit is a 40km Hike Across VIC’s High Country