Hike Hut-to-Hut on Rakiura’s Stunning 125km North West Circuit in NZ

Have you heard of New Zealand’s third island? It’s also the most southern inhabited island and it’s home to a tough 125km loop that lets you take it all in.

We’ve all read about the scenic spots on the North or South Island of New Zealand, but you don’t hear as much about New Zealand’s third-largest island. However, with 85% of the island being protected as a national park and 33 times more kiwi (the birds) than kiwis (the residents), Rakiura/Stewart Island is well worth a visit. Myrthe explains why hiking the North West Circuit is a great way to experience this special place. 

North West Circuit Facts

Distance: 125km
Duration: 9-11 days
Elevation gain: ~5,000m
Nearest town: Oban 

About the North West Circuit

The North West circuit is an advanced 125km tramping track. The full loop takes most people 9-11 days to complete, but there are options to shorten the loop. 

It is not easy (or cheap) to make your way to Rakiura, so going for a multi-day hike is a great way to make the most of it. The North West Circuit allows you to explore a large part of the island and its different types of terrain, varying from sandy beaches to rocky beaches to rugged mountains and the greenest fern-covered forests you’ve ever seen. 

Rather than seeing how fast you can do this loop, aim to spend as long as you can. There are some great side tracks to add on and most of the huts along the way are in stunning locations. Plus, the longer you spend on the island, the greater the chance you will see a kiwi!

From beach to summit and back again!

Stewart Island History

Based on archaeological finds, Maori have been inhabiting Rakiura/Stewart Island as early as the 13th century. Captain Cook and his crew initially mapped the island as part of the South Island and their reports of seals and whales quickly drew more pākehā* to the place. Besides sealing and whaling, the island’s history includes gold and tin mining, sawmilling, and (oyster) fishing industries. 

*European New Zealanders

How To Get to the North West Circuit

Your first hurdle is to get to Rakiura/Stewart Island. You have two options: an hour-long ferry ride or a 20-minute flight. Either can be rather uncomfortable (or cancelled altogether), depending on the weather conditions. 

The North West Circuit starts within walking distance of Oban. If you are short on time or want to skip a section, you can book a water taxi to Freshwater Hut, Port William Hut, Bungaree Hut, or even all the way to Christmas Village Hut. 

Which Direction Is Best When Walking the North West Circuit?

The Department of Conservation (DOC) recommends walking the North West Circuit in an anti-clockwise direction. Walking in this direction means you have a few easy days to begin with and fewer hills while your pack is at its heaviest. It also means that if you have to bail due to bad weather, injury or gear malfunction, you have cellphone coverage and the ability to book a water taxi. 

Reasons to go clockwise would be to get the hard part done and finish with a few easy days. It’s also more likely you will have different hut buddies every night (as most people will walk anti-clockwise). But above all, walking clockwise means you will have a good idea whether you have the time, energy and food supplies to add on a side trip to the summit of Hununui/Mt Anglem. 

Whichever direction you hike, expect the weather to come in during your journey

Where to Stay Along North West Circuit

There are a whopping 13 DOC huts along the North West Circuit, along with five DOC campsites. The first and last hut are on the Rakiura Great Walk and need to be booked in advance, the other ones are first come, first serve. It might be worth considering a Backcountry Hut Pass if you plan on staying in multiple huts.

Skill Level

Advanced

The trail is marked and easy to follow in most places. However, there are a lot of ups and downs and the distances between some huts make for fairly long days. The tracks on Rakiura are also famous for being very muddy all year round.

You will need good balance, as you will negotiate mud, tree roots, and rocks. On top of that, there are a few sections which are inaccessible at high tide. Be aware that most streams are bridged and heavy rainfall can quickly make them impassable. 

Essential Gear for North West Circuit

• Hiking boots or trail runners with plenty of grip
• Gaiters
• Poles
• Decent rain jacket
• Lots of (warm) layers – the weather on Stewart Island can change rapidly and is rarely good for multiple days in a row
• Sleeping bag
• Sleeping mat – you don’t need a tent if you’re staying in huts, but with a mat you can sleep on the floor if the hut is full 
• PLB
• Lots of food – you will get hungrier after a few days of hiking
• Swimming gear
• Sandfly repellent (and head net)

Check out this DOC brochure to read more about what to bring and how to prepare for walking the North West Circuit.

What it’s Like to Hike the North West Circuit

GPX files available for download here

Day 1 – Freshwater Hut to Mason Bay Hut

Distance: 15km
Time: 3-4 hours

Putting our full packs with nine days worth of food on our back, we were very pleased with our decision to skip the first section of the trail and take a water taxi to Freshwater Hut. All we had to do today was walk for three hours on a flat trail, which would be a great way to ease into things. 

Despite (or maybe because) this section is so flat, it’s also very wet. One section of the trail has the nickname ‘chocolate swamp’ which gives a bit of an idea what to expect. We were briefly tempted to take our shoes off to avoid getting them wet, before realising how futile that would be with eight more days of muddy hiking ahead of us. 

Questioning our life choices as we enter the ‘chocolate swamp’

Mason Bay Hut has a great layout, with separate bunkrooms, a large kitchen and a great deck to spend the afternoon lazing outside. There are plenty of options to go explore, checking out the beach, climbing Big Sandhill or looking for kiwi around Island Hill Homestead, but we decided to save our energy for what lay ahead.

Arriving at Mason Bay Hut

Day 2 – Mason Bay Hut – Big Hellfire Hut

Distance: 17.5km
Time: 6-8 hours

The far end of Mason Bay beach becomes inaccessible at high tide. There is a detour through the dunes, but it adds extra time and effort to an already long day. 

With low tide being at an awkward 5am, we thought we were doomed to take the detour, but as we found ourselves lying awake at 4am listening to the gale blowing outside, we decided to just get on with it. 

The fierce headwind made crossing the dunes pretty interesting, but once we made it to the beach and headed north it was okay. We got around the headland just in time, after which our pace dropped considerably as the flat, sandy beach morphed into a jumble of boulders and driftwood. 

Practising our balancing skills on the rocky end of Mason Bay Beach

At the far end of the beach, the trail presented its next challenge: the biggest climb of the Circuit. We made short work of the steep, 280m ascent through the forest before giving up all the hard-earned elevation by dropping down to Little Hellfire Beach. 

Because of our early start, it was now only 8am, so we decided to take an extended break in the hunters hut. The rest of the day was filled with another climb and a beautiful section through the forest on the ridge, before arriving at Big Hellfire Hut. 

Along the ridge to Big Hellfire Hut

Day 3 – Big Hellfire Hut – East Ruggedy Hut

Distance: 15km
Time: 6-8 hours

After a gorgeous sunrise, we continued to follow the track through the forest, dropping down onto the beach to only climb straight back out. We would soon learn that this is a classic feature of the North West Circuit. 

Amazing views after waking up at Big Hellfire Hut

By now, the predicted rain had started, which made for a soggy crossing of the Ruggedy Mountains. Popping out onto West Ruggedy Beach was a welcome variation after the hours spent walking through the forest, but we were less amused by the realisation this beach also has a point which becomes uncrossable at high tide. One very steep sand dune scramble later, we headed back inland where it didn’t take long to find East Ruggedy Hut.

Read more: 10 Tips on How To Leave No Trace in Our Wild Places

Day 4 – East Ruggedy Hut – Long Harry Hut

Distance: 10km
Time: 5-6 hours

After two big days, we were glad to have a slightly shorter day ahead of us. It started off alright, as we walked through beautiful dunes and spotted our first kiwi. But then the rain started again, and it did not stop. 

Crossing the dunes to get to East Ruggedy Beach

After climbing up and descending back down, we found ourselves on a beach full of big boulders. We took our time carefully picking our way up and over the slippery rocks. At first, we were happy to be back in the bush, especially when we got a glimpse of the hut in the distance. But the steep gullies we had to climb down and back out nearly killed us before we finally arrived at the hut, drenched to the bone. 

Read more: 7 Tips For Rainy Day Hiking

The relief when you spot the hut after a long, rainy day

Day 5 –  Long Harry Hut – Yankee River Hut

Distance: 9km
Time: 4-5 hours

What a difference a day makes! With the sun in full force and only a half day of hiking, today ended up being one of our favourite days. As we left the hut, we entered a beautiful section of forest, followed by some stunning scenes at Smoky Beach. 

It didn’t take much longer to get to the swing bridge across Yankee River, which meant the hut was just round the corner. What a spot! We had a quick wash in the river followed by a blissful afternoon in the sun, soaking in the ever-changing views of the tidal river flowing in and out to sea.

Yankee River Hut on a good day

Day 6 – Yankee River Hut – Christmas Village Hut

Distance: 12km
Time: 6 hours

After such a fun day yesterday, we didn’t have high expectations for today. It looked like we would be in the forest for most of it, with few distractions along the way. It ended up being better than expected though, with our second (and much closer) kiwi encounter and a surprise descent down to.. yep, you guessed it, a rocky beach. 

More fun scrambling to cross a rocky beach

We could definitely feel the hiker hunger kicking in by now, and barely made it to 10.30am before stopping for lunch. The rest of the walk did feel a bit like a trudge, but our arrival at Christmas Village Hut quickly boosted our spirits. Another gem of a hut location, and the first time we were brave enough to go for a swim in the sea. No better way to feel fresh after six days of hiking!

Laundry day at Christmas Village Hut

Day 7 – Side trip to the summit of Hununui/Mt Anglem

Distance: 12.5km
Time: 6 hours return

When we planned our trip, we decided to add in a spare day, in case we needed extra time due to bad weather or injury. We were stoked to still have this spare day up our sleeve, as this meant we could do a side trip up Hununui/Mt Anglem, the highest point of Rakiura/Stewart Island. 

Gaining height on Hununui/Mt Anglem

The weather couldn’t have been better, and we were both buzzing with excitement. It felt as if we were flying up the steep track with only day packs on our back. The views got better and better as we gained more elevation, and once at the top we could see the full extent of just how much distance we had covered in the previous six days.

Letting it sink in just how far we have walked in the past week

Our high was slightly dampened on arriving back at the hut, when we realised that with the start of a holiday weekend our quiet days on the trail were over and we would be sharing the hut with 18 other people that night.

Day 8 – Christmas Village Hut – Bungaree Hut

Distance: 11km
Time: 4-6 hours

We got up early to get on the trail ahead of all the other hikers. It was another sunny day, which made walking the length of sandy Murray Beach a real pleasure. After a muddy section back in the forest, we made it to Bungaree Hut which is once again in a stunning location. 

Shortly after we arrived, the sun disappeared and it started raining. We had a little explore on the beach but mainly stayed close to the hut, chatting to other hikers as they arrived.

Day 9 – Bungaree Hut – Lee Bay

Distance: 15km
Time: 4-6 hours

Our last day! We were ready to wrap up our amazing adventure and enter the world of hot showers and fresh food. We had a slightly bigger distance to cover today, but the motivation to get to Oban before the cafe closed – as well as the fact that half of today was part of the much better maintained Rakiura Track – meant we boosted through the kilometres. 

Even on a cloudy day, the views along the North West Circuit are pretty neat

After a quick snack stop at Port William Hut, we started on our final section to the trailhead at Lee Bay. By now it was raining pretty hard, so we decided to call a taxi to skip the final 6km road walk back to Oban. The hot shower, fish and chips. and beers at the pub were everything we had been dreaming of for the past nine days!