We Slept in an Ice Cave on Our Splitboarding Trip in The Snowy Mountains

Sleeping in an ice cave was just one of many highlights for Brandon and Lachie, as they traced rivers and contours to the peak of Mt Twynam on an overnight backcountry mission.

We Are Explorers acknowledge that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Ngarigo and Walgal people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Quick Overview

Guthega to Mt Twynam is an out-and-back ski or splitboard route on the Main Range of Kosciuszko National Park. The 15km return route departs from Guthega township and takes one to two days depending on whether you decide to camp for the night or not.

It’s important to check the weather forecast attentively when in the Alps, pack extra gear and food, pay attention to your location, and always check in with your group.

Read more: A Guide to Backcountry Skiing in Kosciuszko National Park

Checking the map for the 15th time to check we’re in the right place

Guthega to Mt Twynam Route Facts

Distance: 15km return
Duration: 2 days
Elevation gain: 700m to Mt Twynam Peak
Nearest town: Guthega

About the Guthega to Mt Twynam Route

Venturing beyond the resorts in the Australian Alps provides a fantastic sense of freedom and exploration rarely found among the crowded ski runs. And the Guthega to Mt Twynam route is the perfect place to scratch the surface of what the Main Range has to offer. Reaching a peak elevation of 2196m at the top of Mt Twynam, you get a 360° view of the range, looking over the snow-covered landscape as far as the eye can see, and even spotting the Guthega ski runs. 

The route provides an incredible sense of wilderness while remaining within reach of Guthega. It’s definitely possible to do the route in one day, but it’s also ideal for an overnight trip if you enjoy camping out in the snow. Make sure to pack appropriately for the cold night!

Read more: Snowshoeing From Guthega To Schlink Hut

Main Range History

Mt Twynam is the third highest peak in Australia and is situated on the Main Range, which is a part of the Great Dividing Range. The Main Range is of significance to First Nations people due to the Bogong moths, which hibernate in this region during the summer. The abundance of water networks and lakes have provided ample drinking water for generations. 

Mt Twynam forms part of a larger network of Australia’s tallest peaks on the Main Range. The range is a historic alpine landscape that brings with it ample opportunities for adventure such as hiking, climbing, skiing, touring, mountain biking, trail running, and even ice climbing (yes we have climbable ice in Australia!).

Read more: Need to Know Before You Go Backcountry Camping

It’s a scenic overload

How To Get to Guthega

The route is out-and-back so you’ll start and finish in the same place. However, Guthega is high up the Main Range so you’ll need a car to get there. The last 10 km is dirt road (sometimes pothole riddled) but a 2WD is completely capable. Just take it slow!

Where To Stay Along the Guthega to Mt Twynam Route

Ultimately, anywhere!

That’s the beauty of the snowy landscape, deciding where to pitch a tent – or build a snow cave! – is more about reading the environment, the wind, and the sun rather than finding a cleared opening. A few tips would be to stay within reach of significant landmarks, camp at the base of the Mt Twynam climb so you can rip in early, avoid camping under trees, poo responsibly, and respect other people out there.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Skill Level

Advanced

The physical effort falls in the intermediate range but the aspect of camping overnight in the alpine region requires an advanced skill set. The Main Range is well connected so you should have reception most of the way but be aware that the negative temperatures can drain your battery quickly. I recommend bringing a portable charger for emergency use.

Navigating in the snow can be a challenge, and you’re not necessarily going to be able to rely on a GPS if the batteries die. Make sure you’re comfortable navigating with a map and compass before you head out.

Knowing how to prepare for the cold, reading the weather forecast, staying dry, having enough calories, and conserving energy are all key to enjoying your time in the backcountry during winter. 

Top tip! Don’t forget to fill out a Trip Intention Form before heading out! NSW NPWS Intention Form

Want to level up?

Nearby Island Bend Campground (1330m altitude) is a good place to practice cold camping! 

Guthega to Mt Twynam Essential Gear

• Splitboard
• Ski poles
• Ski goggles
• Snow gear
• Water bottle
• GPS device (phone with a map app, Garmin)
• Physical map (in case your devices run out of battery)
• Portable charger
• PLB
• Insulated sleeping mat
• Sleeping bag with low-temperature comfort rating (minimum -1 degree)
• Stove for a warm cup of tea or coffee to warm up your hands!
• Extra layers (long johns, spare socks, beanie)

Read more: Packing List for Backcountry Skiing & Splitboarding

And obviously don’t forget your skis or boards! | Photo by Lachie Bluett

What It’s Like Exploring the Main Range

The Main Range is simply spectacular. It serves up an endless variety of landscapes. From intimate journeys through snow gums, to crossing wide open snow covered plains, and feasting your eyes on views beyond imagination at the top of each peak.

The people you meet out there are always willing to help and share their recommendations. Inevitably they leave you wanting to experience everything they did for yourself! That’s exactly how we visited an igloo from which three buddies were basing their daily tour adventures.

That led to us ditching the idea of sleeping in the tent we were lugging around (boring!) to build a snow cave instead. And what a way to get inspired!

Welcome to our humble snow cave

Day 0 – Sydney to Guthega

We left Sydney on a Friday after work, rolling into Guthega around midnight to spend the night sleeping in the car ready to set off at first light. I remember it being a restless sleep. The wind had picked up and was barrelling into the car constantly.

At around four in the morning, I heard the loud beeping of a snow plough and thought it must be snowing pretty heavily. It was as good a reason as any to be woken up!

Day 1 – Guthega to Base of Mt Twynam

Distance: 7km
Time: 5 hours
Navigation: Follow the Snowy River to the suspension bridge, then use the FatMAPS app to navigate towards Mt Twynam

Day one started at 6am. We woke up to a fresh blanket of snow, clouds still stuck to the mountains, and the wind had died down. It was cold. We grabbed a coffee at Guthega, did our gear check (GPS, layers, equipment), analysed the forecast, and ensured the Garmin GPS was working should we need it. 

The start from Guthega Dam was tough going in wettish snow, but we both embraced the process. The first couple of hours followed the river west on its south side, loosely following contours through the snow gums to the Snowy River suspension bridge. By now the sun was peeking out and we ripped into our chicken wraps. Yum!

The trip is worth it for the views alone. Phwoar!

We met a couple of people here who told us about an igloo that we must check out close by. Filled with excitement, that’s exactly where we headed next. The igloo was incredible, with a timber stove, ‘bedrooms’, and bench, and the people temporarily living there were beyond inspiring. We spent the next part of our day dreaming about what else was possible out here!

We unloaded our gear at the base of Mt Twynam and got our shovels out. We decided we’d spend the afternoon building our own snow cave. We dug, smacked shovels triumphantly, shaped, and refined. Voila! We had our home for the night.

To wrap up the day, we toured up Little Twynam to enjoy a small descent, leaving fresh lines all the way back to camp. After a cup of hot chocolate, and another wrap, we were straight into our warm sleeping bags! 

Read more: 6 Reasons To Ski Out Of Bounds

If you’re claustrophobic this might not be the accommodation style for you!

Day 2 – Base of Mt Twynam to Guthega via Mt Twynam Peak

Distance: 9km
Time: 5 hours
Navigation: Towards the peak of Mt Twynam by sight from the base following the ridgeline, before returning to the bridge and following the river back to Guthega

We watched the day break through the little opening of our snow cave at our feet. The night was comfortable, but cold feet called for a makeshift hot water bottle from the Camelback halfway through the night. It worked a treat!

Sunrise – snow cave edition

The plan for the day was to leave our camping gear at the base, pack our day packs and head to the peak of Mt Twynam to enjoy some untouched snow back to camp. We headed off, following the ridge line, climbing slowly but gradually, stopping at times to take in the breathtaking views of the alps. What a place to have to ourselves!

We dug into some lollies and muesli bars at the top, shared our joy, and sense of accomplishment before setting out to reconstruct our splits into boards. The descent was all ours with no one in sight! Lachie dropped in first and I watched in awe at his choice of line. I followed, enjoying some of the best turns of my life. It wasn’t that it was knee-deep powder, but more the fact that we’d earned these turns. And man did it feel good!

The descent was definitely worth the long slog uphill

We stopped by home base (snow cave!) to grab our camping gear and began the tour back towards Guthega, tracing our steps from the previous day. As we neared Guthega, we could almost taste the beers on offer at the inn, but our hard work wasn’t done. With about one hour to go, we both felt our legs start to burn as we pushed through the now wet midday snow. We pushed on for the promised reward of beer.

But there was one more twist to the story. The Guthega Inn didn’t open until 3pm and we had to start the long drive home. We didn’t spend long indulging our disappointment. Reminiscing on the great adventure we’d just had was still good even without a beer. Plus, Jindabyne wasn’t that far away and we may or may not have stopped in at a pub on the way through!

10/10 would recommend this Main Range route to anybody looking to experience the wild beauty of the backcountry. We can’t wait to get back out there and build another snow cave!

Read more: How To Build an Igloo You Can Sleep In

FAQs Guthega to Mt Twynam Route

How long is the route from Guthega to Mt Twynam?

It’s 15km return between Guthega and Mt Twynam

Is the Guthega to Mt Twynam route suitable for beginners?

The Guthega to Mt Tynam route is considered more of an intermediate-advanced adventure, simply because of the length and the requirement to be confident camping in snow. It’s not recommended as a first-time trip unless you’re headed out with someone more experienced. Consider practising snow camping somewhere closer to civilisation before attempting a trip like this one.

Are there snow caves that we can stay in at the base of Mt Twynam?

No. There are no established snow caves for accommodation on this trip. The Explorers built their own snow cave after seeing other backcountry tourers do the same. Please always take a tent with you as a backup if you want to attempt something similar.

Table of contents photo by Lachie Bluett