This Motley Crew Drove Across Western Australia to Witness the Solar Eclipse

Over 1000km, nine humans, four cars, millions of stars, and one unforgettable eclipse combined to make this road trip up the WA coastline a journey of a lifetime.

Throughout this journey, we travelled through the ancient lands of the Bibbulman, Kaniyang, Pinjarup, Wajuk, Yuat, Amangu, Nhanta and Malkana tribes. I pay my respects with my deepest acknowledgment and gratitude to those past, present and emerging and feel deeply blessed to have explored their lands. 

On the Edge of an Eclipse

The sky changed colour and everything went quiet. It felt as if the whole world was coated in a blanket of soft purple hues and there was a stillness and hush over the world. The feeling vibrated through me and for a moment nothing else mattered except that moment. It was pure bliss.

I looked up at the blazing sun, through special flimsy glasses, witnessing the moon gradually taking over in the middle of the day. Totality of this special and rare occurrence is only 58 seconds, while the moon took three hours to totally cross the sun.

The excitement to witness a full solar eclipse (many of them for the first time) added to mine. Though, this would be my third. I wondered if that was enough to be called an ‘eclipse chaser’.

A Most Motley Crew

Accompanying me were three of my closest girlfriends. We’d been friends for years, as well as housemates, we knew each other as well as any sibling does. We knew each other’s triggers, what songs each loved, their humour, and most importantly, we knew when to take space.

We were also joined by the family of one of my girlfriends, including her partner, 85-year-old grandpa, stepdad, little sister, and mum. We had an amazing adventure that stayed with us long after the dust settled, and had spent about three weeks on the road – four vehicles, nine humans, and a variety of opinions.

My friend had navigated the space with vigour and a humble quality that I so admired. Organising the needs, aspirations, and desires of nine humans had been no small feat.

Taking into account what her elderly grandpa could do, what campsites we could access without having a 4WD, what we’d eat for dinner, who’d do the dishes, how much ground we’d cover in one day, what sights we wanted to see, what sights we didn’t want to see, how fast we’d travel.

I’m not sure whose trip it was first – the family’s or our little friend pack – either way, we’d combined our journey for a bit of a modern family moment, which for the most part left us in reels of laughter and amongst the chaos, resulted in a fun, friendship-solidifying, road trip.

Heading North From Jurien Bay

We began our journey in Jurien Bay, a sweet coastal campground. We arrived late at night so I woke for sunrise the next morning and went on a huge walk along the beach, enjoying my last moment of solitude.

I’ve spent many years travelling solo, so to be road-tripping with a bunch of friends, plus the added bonus of an 85-year-old grandpa, was a new and exciting experience. Hours later I was found on the beach by the others, and we chatted about how the next three weeks were to span out. We had about two weeks on the road before we’d arrive at Exmouth, in time to witness the solar eclipse.

Our days were spent driving and chatting, walking, swimming, and exploring, while our nights were spent by the fireside with the family. We laughed and cried together and got to know each other on a much deeper and more intimate level. I’d never experienced having a grandpa, so it felt really special to be travelling with an elder, and someone who was just as up for adventures as we were.

We heard many funny stories about Jade’s childhood, the way she grew up without electricity until she was 11, fond memories from her mum and grandpa.

We swam and explored in some amazing places and stayed at campgrounds that were converted sections of massive farms. I loved these the most, seeing how people live their farm lives.

One of the best camping spots we found was Wooramel River Retreat, a campground that’s usually on a dried river bed, but the river was flowing while we were there, which only happens about once a year. We camped among striking, ancient trees, and swam in the deep, cooling river.

One day we found a huge expansive salt lake and foraged some salt, which lasted for months. We visited Kalbarri National Park and spent hours swimming naked in a rushing river, away from all the tourists. We visited Quobba blowholes, which offered stunning views of the setting sun over the ocean – a treat we never get on the East Coast.

Late one night while staying at Wooramel River Retreat we were soaking in the outdoor hot tubs under the vastness and magic of the star-filled sky. Around 11pm we saw an amazing collection of stars parading across the sky. We didn’t know what we’d witnessed, so we asked the people in the next tub if they saw it too, just to check we weren’t all going mad. After some investigating the next day we realised we’d seen a rocket launch thanks to our mate Elon Musk!

I love exploring Australia like this, road-tripping with friends, camping, cooking communal meals, story time. I’d driven this route years before, but on my own, and I remember the loneliness I felt out west, so different from any East Coast experience. I think with this isolation comes a mysterious experience that one can only have when being exposed to the desert, your only friends the cows and the stars.

On this journey, I was so grateful to share it with people. The best part was sharing meals at night time, the way dinner time should be. A mix of family members and reflections of the day.

An Exmouth Eclipse Awaits

Arriving at Exmouth, the town was heaving with people and all sorts of activities and local events. On our first night we went to a local pub and Grandad and I got down on the dancefloor. Travelling with an elder who holds years of experience, and having him share his life stories and reflections was a really special and unique aspect of this trip. Grandaddy (as I called him) and I had a really fun, playful, and endearing connection.

The eclipse occurred around 11.30am, and we had four minutes of totality in which the sun’s light was completely obscured by the passing moon.

Many people were watching but I was so immersed in my own experience with those closest to me that I hardly noticed them.

After the eclipse and a few days in Exmouth, we began the journey back south. Our last pit stop was the Pinnacles – an amazing expanse of grey, dense rocks that contrast strikingly to the bright orange sand. While there, a massive storm rolled in which added to the intensity of colours. It was a mysterious, yet beautiful place.

Friends Who Became Family (& Family Who Became Friends)

Travelling with a family unit made me reflect on my own family and our relationship. Jade’s family are a unique bunch and as outrageous as my friends and I.

It felt like we were travelling as a pack of friends, rather than with a mother you have to hide things from. Our differences and each of our unique qualities were celebrated, not needing to be hidden.

The whole journey had been three weeks, and at times was testing, but overall was a total dream. A bunch of besties, a Treasure Box for a car (that’s what we’d named it), empty roads, vast skies, stars, and a total solar eclipse to top it off!

When the trip was over, it was a real mix of emotions. The journey solidified my relationship with Jade’s family and gave me an insight into having a grandpa. Saying goodbye to some of my favourite friends was heartbreaking and as always I felt like the whole trip had flown by. I tried to capture the moments before they flitted away, to be revisited in chats of memories and photos.

We’d done well – we’d navigated and compromised and accepted and celebrated ourselves and each other. I’d loved (almost) every minute, as nothing brings me more joy than to be with friends, on a road trip, cooking on a fire, moving through the days by the sun and the moon.