When she’s not out riding trails, bikepacker Kate is creating her own bike bags. From custom frame bags to beer carriers, she shows how making your own gear can elevate your adventures. Follow her step-by-step guide to DIY a feed bag and add a personal touch to every ride.

 

There’s something empowering about making your own gear (MYOG). What started as a way to tweak things to fit my setup turned into something much bigger. Maybe the pockets weren’t quite right, or the fit didn’t sit with my bike. But once I started, it became more than just customisation – it became about creating with intention, and earning a sense of pride from making something with your own two hands.

It’s less about perfection and more about the satisfaction of designing gear that is tailored to your exact adventure, with a bit of your own personality woven in.

 

Matched my DIY feed bag to my handlebars

Where It All Began

I’ve been sewing since I was a kid, but I never imagined I could merge my love for making clothes with my outdoor obsession. That all changed on a rainy weekend when my partner, Josh, suggested we try sewing a bikepacking frame bag together.

I jumped at the chance to share my passion with him, and suddenly, it opened the door to so many possibilities. Since then, we’ve made custom frame bags for all of our bikes, bum bags, feed bags, and even a beer carrier (highly recommended for those post-ride brews).

Fabric Selection

When it comes to making your own bikepacking gear, choosing the right fabric is key. Your bags need to withstand rugged terrain and protect your gear from rain, mud, and debris. You can definitely choose the upcycling path – an old rain jacket or tarp works well – but keep in mind, bikepacking gear takes a beating. I prefer to use durable, waterproof materials to make sure my bags hold up and protect whatever’s inside.

X-pac VX21 is a popular fabric for bikepacking gear, known for its raised diamond laminate pattern. It’s highly durable, waterproof, and holds its shape while remaining lightweight. For lining, I prefer PolyD 300 (also known as Hyper D), which is softer and more flexible without compromising waterproofing.

Both fabrics come in a range of vibrant colours, adding a fun touch to your bike. For those who prioritize sustainability, ECOPAK – made from 100% recycled polyester with a C0 DWR finish (fluorocarbon-free) – is now available in Australia and is fully recyclable after use.

 

Choosing your colours is a great way to make something unique, or get matchy matchy with your bike

 

I source all my fabrics and hardware from Make Your Own Gear Australia (formerly Monkey Puzzle Fabric), a small DIY supply business based in the Blue Mountains. Graham, the owner, is incredibly friendly and always up for chat. When I placed my first online order, he even called me to ask about my sewing project!

Since then, he’s been a huge support on my MYOG journey; offering fabric advice, sending samples, and sharing sewing patterns (this isn’t sponsored – he’s just a legend).

How to Start Making Your Own Gear

Before you get ahead of yourself and start tracing the inside of your bike frame, it’s a good idea to start simple with something like a stem bag or feed bag. As the name suggests, these bags are perfect for stashing snacks to munch on throughout the day (get it, feed bag?), but they’re also ideal for holding all the essentials like sunscreen, lip balm, PLB, and a multi-tool.

I use my Nalgene bottle as a template so I can also use it as a water bottle carrier when needed. With two lines of webbing (one horizontal and one vertical), the bag easily attaches to both your handlebar, stem or frame. Once you’ve made one, you’ll be eager to whip up a matching set – they’re just that handy to have on the bike!

 

As you progress through each step it’s a good idea to check that your sizing is correct with a few tests like this

Step-by-Step Feed Bag Instructions

Skill level: Beginner

What you need

  • Water bottle (for size)
  • Fabric (I use VX21 Mulberry for the main piece and PolyD 300 Orange for the top opening)
  • Cord Elastic (any width as long as it fits through your eyelet)
  • Webbing
  • Eyelet
  • Toggle/cord end
  • Velcro (to attach to bike)
  • Binding (optional, for professional finish)
  • Clips

 

Getting everything together before you start makes it easier

A few tips before you start

  • Make a practice piece – Before cutting into your expensive fabric, sew a ‘toile’, basically, a practice version using scrap fabric like an old sheet or T-shirt. You’re bound to make a few mistakes on your first try, and that’s totally okay. The goal is to avoid putting unnecessary holes in your fabric that could affect waterproofing.
  • Use clips, not pins – Pins can leave tiny holes that mess with your bag’s waterproofing. Hold your fabric together with clips instead.
  • Start with a fresh needle – It makes sewing through these tougher fabrics so much easier. Trust me, you’ll thank me later!

 

Use clips not pins

Step 1: Cut Out Your Fabric Pieces

First, measure the diameter and height of your water bottle. I like to cut the main fabric (VX21) so it reaches just below the lip of the bottle. Add about 2cm to the height for seam allowance, and add 4cm to the diameter – 2cm for some wiggle room and 2cm for seam allowance. Cut out a rectangle using these dimensions; this’ll be your main piece.

 

Measure twice to be sure you’ve got it correct from the start

 

Next, trace the base of your water bottle onto the fabric. Add 2cm around the outline for seam allowance, then cut out the circle. This’ll be your base piece.

For the top piece, cut another rectangle from your top-opening fabric (PolyD 300). The width should match your main piece, and for height, measure from the bottle’s lip to the top and double it

 

Remember, measure twice and cut once!

Step 2: Assemble the Top Piece

Fold the top piece in half lengthways and mark 1cm below the fold in the centre. Insert your eyelet at this mark for the drawstring. Sew the rectangle into a tube by sewing the short sides together, with right sides facing each other.

Fold the fabric in half again, this time with wrong sides together, and insert the elastic into the fold, feeding it through the eyelet. Stitch around the top, about 2cm from the fold, to hold the elastic in place. Add your toggle and tie off the elastic. The top piece is now complete.

 

Now’s the time you can really see it begin to come together

Step 3: Assemble the Main Piece

Sew one piece of webbing horizontally and another vertically onto the main rectangle, using a zigzag stitch to reinforce the attachment points. I like to sew every 5cm, allowing for multiple velcro attachment points to secure it to the bike. To prevent fraying, lightly burn the edges of the webbing with a lighter.

 

The black is the webbing

 

Sew the short seams of the main rectangle with right sides together. If you want a clean finish, sew binding over these seams.

Now, the fiddly part – sew the circle base to the main tube with right sides together. Again, you can sew binding over this seam for a professional touch.

 

Inside out main piece with binding

Step 4: Sew Top & Main Piece Together

Carefully align the top and bottom pieces with right sides together, making sure the toggle and eyelet are on the inside. Sew them together, and add binding over the seam if you like.

Flip the bag right-side out and voilà, your feed bag is done!

 

Top and main piece are sewn together now

Optional: Add Lining or Interfacing

This bag is unlined and has no interfacing, to keep it simple for beginner sewists. If you want a more structured bag, consider adding foam or interfacing to your fabric pieces before assembling.

You can also fully line the bag to hide internal seams (see chalk bag instructions for tips on this). If you go for lining, I recommend using a bright colour – it makes it much easier to find small items in the depths of your bag.

 

And that’s a wrap!

Get in Touch!

If these steps feel a bit overwhelming or you’d rather have something custom-made, feel free to send me a message on Instagram @katealiice for custom orders. I’m also happy to answer any MYOG questions, or you can reach out to Monkey Puzzle Fabrics for extra advice or fabric samples.

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