Cocos (Keeling) Islands is Australia’s most remote territory, covering a mere 14km² in the Indian Ocean, and is closer to Indonesia than mainland Australia. The blend of holidaymakers and Cocos Malay culture makes the idyllic islands a unique destination to explore at your own pace.

About Cocos (Keeling) Islands

‘Postcard-perfect’ gets thrown around a lot, but the description is apt when exploring Cocos (Keeling) Islands. The under-explored paradise is sprawled across 27 low-lying islands in the shape of a necklace, formed by coral atolls. Most are covered with coconut palms and fringed by golden beaches and all shades of blue waters.

Below the surface, its warm waters are abundant with marine life and colourful reefs.

The islands remain largely untouched, with only two out of 27 islands inhabited by around 600 people. West Island is where holidaymakers descend, with room for only 144 visitors at any time. The island’s hub includes an information centre, three casual eateries with outdoor dining, bars, and one supermarket.

Cocos is hardly a bustling place, which makes it so appealing: it’s unruffled, exudes laidback charms, and is easy to get around.

 

You’ll enjoy the slow, tropical rhythm

 

Cocos’ other main island, Home, is the heart of Malay culture. It’s reached via a 30-minute ferry from West Island. The village is home to 450 residents, with locals getting around by golf carts, dining out at two eateries, and practising religion at a local mosque.

But what do locals do for fun? Gratification is found in nature – and of course, some ‘toys’ help to aid that. Scuba diving, snorkelling, kayaking, e-biking, fishing, and golf are some local pastimes in the ‘lagoon’.

Cocos (Keeling) Islands History

There’s a good reason behind the islands’ fruitful name…

It’s believed that Captain William Keeling was the first European to sight the islands in 1609 while en route from the Dutch East Indies. But it wasn’t until the 19th century that the islands were settled. After a brief visit, Scottish trader Captain John Clunies Ross decided to call the islands his home.

He moved with his family to settle the islands in 1827. The family, dubbed the King of Cocos, ruled the islands for over 150 years. They were at the helm of the island’s principal industry source – coconuts – mainly exporting to South East Asia.

 

Look how many coconuts we had to dodge on this track

 

Cocos became an Australian territory in 1955, with Australia purchasing all the land – except the Clunies Ross family home – in 1978. The United Nations stepped in in 1984 when the Cocos-Malay population voted to become Australian citizens. Since then, Cocos has been headed by the Australian Government.

How to Get to the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Virgin Australia operates two flights weekly – on Tuesday and Friday – from Perth. Flights are under five hours, with the outbound flight stopping at Exmouth to refuel.

 

 

It’s possible to double dip on the island getaway with flights stopping at Christmas Island too, making it the perfect opportunity to explore Australia’s distant territories.

Read more: Top Tips For Travelling Faster (and Comfier!) With Carry-On Only

Getting Around Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Although considered a relatively small island at 10km2, hiring a car is the best way to get around the West Island.

A handful of car hire operators are on the island, with prices starting from $85 per day.

 

Jump in the car and get ready to go troppo | Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association

Essential Gear for the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Read more: Remember to leave no trace!

Where to Stay in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

The Cocos (Keeling) Islands have a few accommodation options on both islands, however, most options are located on West Island. Resorts, high-rises, there’s none to be found here. Cocos can only accommodate 144 people at any given time, with most options simple digs.

Cocos Cottages

Cost per night: $400 per night (max five guests)
Suitable for: Couples, families, friends
Facilities: Fully self-contained cottages with two bedrooms, kitchenette, bathroom with washing machine and outdoor seating

The comfortably modish Cocos Cottages overlooks the runway and golf course and is a short stroll to West Island’s hub.

Breakers

Cost per night: $310 per night (two guests)
Suitable for: Couples
Facilities: Fully self-contained bungalows with kitchenette, bathroom, and outdoor deck. Guests have access to shared laundry, BBQs, and sporting equipment

Treat yourself to a plush island getaway with a stay at the West Island’s Breakers. Moments from the airport, the accommodation offers ten bungalows surrounded by tropical gardens.

Cocos Kampong Homestay

Cost per night: $160 per night (two guests)
Suitable for: Couples
Facilities: Choose between a master or twin bedrooms. Rooms can be combined to offer a three-bedroom stay.

Immerse yourself in Cocos Malay culture with a homestay on Home Island. The simple accommodation offers bedrooms with bathrooms and access to a private lounge and kitchenette. Traditional Cocos Malay cuisine is available upon request.

Looking for something different? Check out more accommodation options on Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

 

You’ll be sleeping among the coconut trees | Photo by Karen Wilshaw

Where to Eat in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Indecision on where to eat out doesn’t really exist in Cocos. There are a handful of eateries available across the islands. With most options available on the West Island, here are the best places to eat.

West Island

Surfer Girl Brewery

Chase good vibes at Surfer Girl Brewery. Sit in the alfresco area to watch an ocean sunset and enjoy its themed cuisine nights. The brewery is open Monday to Thursday and from 7.30am Sunday for weekend brekky. Book a table on the signage board outside the restaurant.

 

Horizons and watery sunsets around here are endless | Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association

 

Salty’s Bakery + Grill 

Head to the hole-in-the-wall takeout for a hearty feed. It’s open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday nights, offering daily specials such as stone-grilled pizzas, locally caught fish and chips, and Indonesian-inspired cuisine.

Need a morning pick-me-up? The eatery has got you covered with coffee, toasties, and other delicious baked goodies available from 7.30am.

The Big Barge Art Centre & Sula Sula Servery Café 

The island’s most quirky café comes in the form of a beautifully restored barge. The multi-purpose boat is an art gallery, souvenir store, and coffee shop in palm tree coastal surroundings. The Big Barge Art Centre has multiple areas to enjoy a cuppa or iced tea – think swinging chairs, boat decking or under the trees – and watch the waves slowly roll in.

The café is open Tuesdays and Wednesdays only, 9am – 11am.

Tropika

For an authentic taste of the islands, head to Tropika, opposite Cocos Club. The eatery serves Halal-certified Cocos Malay and Aussie bites with indoor and outdoor seating. It’s open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Make sure to check out the $12 lunch specials to save some coins.

Cocos Club

Join in local revelry at Cocos Club. Open every day from 5pm, the no-frills bar is the hub of all social happenings after a day out on the big blue. Grab a drink at Happy Hour (5:30-6:30pm) and mingle with locals in the outdoor undercover area. If you’re feeling peckish, grab a takeaway from Salty’s Bakery + Grill and Tropika and eat it on premise.

There’s a bottle shop onsite selling duty-free alcohol and spirits if you prefer to make the most of your island accommodation.

 

Home Island

Features a bunch of other eateries including:

  • Seafront Restaurant Pop-up
  • Kampong Café & Restaurant
  • Shamrocks Supermarket
  • Cocos Club
  • Co-Op Supermarket

 

The Big Barge Art Centre on the West Island

Things to do in Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Cocos (Keeling) Islands is hardly a place to stay idle. Get active both on land and in the water, discovering its colourful universe moments with these activities to do in Cocos.

 

Cocosday Fishing & Boat Tours

One of the best things to do in Cocos is to hop on a boat. But instead of a tour, why not steer the boat yourself? Besides offering fishing and boat tours, Cocosday also offers dinghy hire with no skipper ticket required.

Cruise around the south end of the lagoon and take your pick of the island to relax and snorkel offshore.

 

The water’s so clear you’ll know what’s taking the bait! | Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association

 

Cocos Dive

It’s better to get to know Cocos’ underwater residents by scissor-kicking alongside them. The island’s only dive centre, Cocos Dive, offers dive trips in the famed lagoon, home to clear, warm waters and pristine and vivid reefs. Let dive instructor Dieter Gerhard show you around soaring coral gardens. Feast on a picnic lunch at Direction Island, where you can also attempt to snorkel the famous drift snorkel, The Rip.

In between dives, there’s even a chance to swim alongside Manta rays (they’re easy to spot in clear waters!), making it an exceptional day out at sea.

Read more: A Beginner’s Guide to Scuba Diving

Ferry to Direction Island

A public ferry journeys across the lagoon to the local playground, Direction Island, twice weekly – Thursday and Friday – from West Island and Home Island. The island has an eco-toilet, wood-fired BBQs, walking trails, and shaded picnic tables. It costs $5 for a return ticket with only one departure and return time available.

The island is perfect for lazing on the sand or completing the drift snorkel, as the rip passes over an underwater ridge teeming with marine life.

Please note: Only confident swimmers should attempt to complete this drift snorkel, as its fast current can be dangerous.

 

Phat Tours Cocos

Explore the West Island on two wheels. Phat Tours Cocos offers E-bike tours and bicycle hire if you want to give your leg muscles a proper workout.

 

Bike 🤝 beach

 

Ossie’s Cultural Tour

Uncover Home Island’s unique Cocos Malay culture on a tour with local, Ossie. The Home Island and lunch tour includes a guided exploration around the main village and demonstrations of coconut husking and basket weaving.

Savour the taste of Cocos Malay cuisine with a meal prepared by locals and enjoyed along the foreshore.

 

Witnessing magic being weaved

What It’s Like to Visit the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

It’s easy to fall in love with the unique laidback lifestyle of Cocos (Keeling) Islands. And even though it’s technically part of Australia, it has its quirks that make it different from visiting any other domestic destination via flight. Visitors must bring their passports and complete an immigration form upon arrival in case of a forced emergency landing in Jakarta.

You’ll also quickly realise how safe and trustworthy island locals are. For car rentals, it’s advised to leave your key in the vehicle. This avoids losing the key, a headache for all to get a spare sent to the island!

Tips For Visiting the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

  • The Cocos (Keeling) Islands only have accommodation for 144 people at any time; therefore, booking accommodation when booking flights is strongly encouraged
  • The minimum stay is four nights, followed by seven nights due to flight timings. I recommend staying at least seven, as you’ll quickly realise just how much of a paradise Cocos really is!
  • West Island’s only supermarket has a limited grocery range and prices are more expensive than on the mainland due to freight costs, so it’s advised to bring your own groceries as it’ll also help maintain local food supplies

FAQs of Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Do Australians need a passport for Cocos (Keeling) Islands?

Technically Aussies don’t need to bring a passport as it’s an external territory of Australia. However, it is strongly advised that you do and complete an immigration form upon arrival in case of a forced emergency landing in Jakarta.

What is the best time of year to go to Cocos (Keeling) Islands?

The dry season, May to October, could be a great time to visit as it’s more likely to be sunny with cooler temps and lower humidity (less chance of cyclones too!).

What language do they speak in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands?

The main spoken languages on Cocos (Keeling) Islands are Cocos Malay and English.

How many people live on Cocos (Keeling) Islands?

According to the 2021 Census, about 600 people inhabit the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

 

Julia D’Orazio was a guest of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association.

Feature photo by Ryan Chatfield & Table of Contents photo by Karen Wilshaw

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