Best Ski Resorts in Nagano and Niigata, Japan

Japan is now the number one international tourist destination for Aussies (and WAE readers according to our survey!) and for good reason. Delicious food, immersive culture, budget-friendly and of course, world-class snow.

From December last year, I was lucky enough to pack up my life, ditch the dreadful Aussie summer and work remotely for outdoor gear retailer, Wild Earth, from a ski hill in Japan’s Nagano prefecture.

When I wasn’t on Zoom calls keeping up with the happenings back home, I was out exploring the local mountains and visiting as many ski resorts as I could during the winter season.

Read more: Packing List for Backcountry Skiing & Splitboarding

Most people have heard of Hakuba and Niseko, but did you know Japan has over 500 ski resorts? Don’t get me wrong, these resorts can be great to visit, however, they can lack the authentic feeling of visiting Japan.

Hakuba and Niseko are inundated with Aussies and you can forget that you are in a completely different country as the villages have become so Westernised.

Read more: 8 Best Small Towns to Visit in Japan

If you’re after a more authentic Japanese experience during your ski trip there are dozens of ski resorts within an hour and a half car or bus trip from Nagano city. I should mention that although these resorts can feel more ‘Japanese’, it’s good to know that many lodges in ski towns are still owned or operated by Westerners and this can have its pluses and minuses for Aussie travellers.

Also, you are bound to run into fellow Australians on holiday, particularly during peak season, so don’t expect to be the only Aussie on the hill – this goes for most places in Japan!

After spending four months in the mountains of Nagano and Niigata prefectures in Japan and exploring the smaller, local resorts, I’ve narrowed down my top picks for these prefectures.

Read more: 8 Underrated Experiences in Japan’s Nagano Region

I should preface – no, I haven’t been to all 500 resorts in Japan (I wish!), but out of those I did visit over the course of my winter season, these are my recommendations for your next trip to Japan’s snow.

Best for Culture: Nozawa Onsen

How to get there: Catch the shinkansen (bullet train) to Iiyama Station. It’s then 30 minutes by bus to Nozawa Onsen – approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo.

Nozawa Onsen is becoming increasingly popular and it has a lot to offer. As one of the ski resorts used in the 1998 Nagano Olympics, it has a great variety of terrain for first timers, kids, park riders, and experienced skiers.

Where Nozawa Onsen really shines is that it was a town before it was a ski resort destination and it shows in the village’s infrastructure.

The traditional buildings perched along the narrow, bustling streets really make you feel like you’re in Japan, rather than the Westernised influence of other resorts. The highlight of Nozawa Onsen is the 14 free public onsens (AKA hot springs) scattered throughout the town, including one outdoor onsen.

I was told by a Japanese woman, ‘Onsen warmth goes to your bones and stays with you’, which is exactly what is needed after a day on the slopes.

Go straight from the slopes to an onsen

One last thing, on the 15th of January each year, the town holds the Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival which has been running for over 300 years. A large wooden structure known as a shaden is lit on fire by men in the town and a theatrical battle is played out.

The festival celebrates good weather, health, and snow for the year to come. The festival is exclusive to Nozawa Onsen residents and guests, and is becoming more popular each year. If you’re interested, book in quick!

Best Under the Radar: Madarao

How to get there: Catch the shinkansen to Iiyama Station. Then it’s 25 minutes by bus to Madarao Ski Resort – approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo.

I might be about to spill the best-kept secret of Nagano: Madarao Kogen. Also known as ‘Madapow’ for its 10-13m average snowfall, Madarao is a hidden gem. It offers good terrain for beginners learning and also plenty of runs for intermediate and advanced skiers and snowboarders.

Madarao is one of the only ski resorts in the area where you’re permitted to ride in the trees – most resorts will take your lift pass for this so be warned! Madarao is also connected to its sister resort, Tangram Ski Circus.

Ride through the trees before you ski through the trees

You’re able to buy lift passes to both resorts on the same pass for heaps of terrain options from first to last chair. What Madarao lacks in a traditional village environment, it truly makes up for it with the variety of terrain available.

The combined ski area of Madarao and Tangram was one of the largest in the area with 45 total runs and 15 lifts. There are steep and deep runs and tree skiing (which is a rarity in Japan as mentioned) for advanced skiers and snowboarders, as well as mellow terrain for first-timers or those getting their ski legs back after some time off the snow.

The area where it lacks the most is the park which is fairly small but does feature a massive kicker by the end of the season. But when the powder is good, who hits the park anyway?

For Madarao’s size, it also tends to be less busy in comparison to the nearby resorts of Nozawa Onsen and Myoko, which means it is pretty easy to get fresh tracks in the morning at first chair.

Enjoying that Madapowpow

Best Groomers and Park: Suginohara, Myoko Kogen

How to get there: Catch the shinkansen to Nagano Station. Then catch a local train to Myoko Kogen station and take a hotel shuttle or taxi to your Myoko Kogen accommodation – approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo.

Are you a park rat? Or prefer to stick to the groomers rather than the trees? Add Suginohara Ski Resort in Myoko to your list. With super wide groomed runs, there’s plenty of room to perfect your turns or get in some deep, fast carves.

Offers some pretty nice views too

There’s a run from top to bottom which clocks in at 8.5km and is known to be the longest in Japan – talk about a leg burner!

If park riding is more your thing then don’t miss the park at Sugi – it’s great for beginner park riders with mellow rollers, all the way up to big kickers to get some serious air.

Best Pow Day: Seki Onsen, Myoko Kogen

How to get there: Catch the shinkansen to Nagano Station. Then catch a local train to Myoko Kogen station and take a hotel shuttle or taxi to your Myoko Kogen accommodation – approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo.

Seki Onsen Ski Resort is a little less known in comparison to its Myoko buddies like Sugi and Akakura, but it’s a local’s favourite spot. Seki is a small family-owned ski resort with only one two-person lift and one one-person pizza box lift.

Mt Myoko in the background there

There are four runs total and with its heavy dumps and deep snow, it’s more suited to intermediate to advanced skiers and snowboarders.

On a powder day, the runs aren’t groomed so be prepared for some of that famous, deep Japow that you’ve heard of! Set the bindings back, loosen up the DIN on your skis and you’re in for a great day!

Best Views: Togakushi Ski Resort

How to get there: Catch the shinkansen to Nagano Station then a local bus to Togakushi – approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo

Togakushi Ski Resort is the closest ski resort to Nagano station, only 40 minutes by car, making it popular for Nagano residents on weekends or powder days. Although it can be a bit busy during peak season over New Year’s, it’s normally pretty quiet during weekdays.

Picture perfect

It’s a fairly average-sized Japanese ski resort, but smaller than Canadian or even some New Zealand resorts, with 19 runs and 7 chairlifts. Togakushi Ski Resort is not on Mt Togakushi itself, it actually faces the Togakushi Mountains.

From the top of the resort, there are stunning 360-degree views of the mountains around and it’s accessible for novices with beginner runs all the way down.

Best for Families: Akakura Onsen

How to get there: Catch the shinkansen to Nagano Station, then get a local train to Myoko Kogen station. Take a hotel shuttle or taxi to your Myoko Kogen accommodation – approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo

Located in the heart of Myoko Kogen, Akakura Onsen is a great resort to visit, especially for families. It’s within walking distance of most lodges (no need to fuss with carrying three sets of skis on a full bus!) and offers great terrain for little shredders. The resort is mostly green runs with a few intermediate and advanced runs as well.

There’s a beginner slope easily accessible from the entrance of the resort and it also has a magic carpet. If you’ve been to ski resorts in America, Canada, Aus or NZ, this is pretty common, but not as much in Japan so it’s great for those not quite ready to tackle the lift.

Pretty beautiful spot to hang out for a bit

If you’re looking to explore some more challenging terrain, Akaura Onsen is connected to the neighbouring ski resort, Akakura Kanko and you can even buy a lift pass for both resorts to go between the two in one day.

Doesn’t matter if you’re a total newbie or completely snow-obsessed, there are tons of options for ski resorts to visit in Japan year after year. If your gear has seen the back of your closet for too long or if you’re in need of a fresh kit, check out Wild Earth’s complete range of snow apparel and gear for your next winter trip.

Catch ya on the hill!

Header photo by @takaokun via Flickr | License