I Spent 5 Days Road Tripping Through Wide Open Spaces in Victoria’s Overlooked Region

Few travellers make it west of the Grampians, but those that do will be embraced by the vast plains of the Wimmera Mallee. We sent Pat and Jake on a five day road trip around western Victoria and they came to know a place that really is the sum of its parts.

Whether you’re taking a road trip from Adelaide or Melbourne, this journey through Big Sky Country has plenty to offer the curious Explorer. Along the way we climbed Australia’s most iconic crag, stayed in historic homesteads, hopped between lakes of varying volumes and, most memorably, met some of the characters who call this place home.

Where to Stay in Wimmera Mallee

Most towns in the Wimmera Mallee have a caravan park. The cabins are a great – and surprisingly affordable – option, and there are a number of guesthouses scattered through the region. We especially loved staying at Arapiles Club House, Fulham Homestead, and Lake Charlegrark Caravan Park. Plenty of pubs are happy to have you camp outside, with some offering private rooms, and there are lots of places to pitch a tent – or park your vehicle – in surrounding state forests.

The gorgeous riverfront at Fulham Homestead

Day 1: Naarm/Melbourne to Kanagulk

Distance: 345km
Duration: 3.5 hours

Jake and I battled Naarm/Melbourne’s morning traffic and emerged triumphant only to collide with a severe weather warning. Hurrah! But the high winds did little to dampen our high hopes, as the Wimmera Mallee was terra incognito for us both. I’m sure many Melburnians can relate to rarely travelling west of Gariwerd/the Grampians.

We pit-stopped at Izzy’s Cafe and visited Dunkeld Arboretum for a glimpse of Wurgarri/Mount Sturgeon. We were keen to check out Rocklands Reservoir where fishing, canoeing, and camping are popular pursuits. But with a storm brewing we sought sanctuary at Fulham Homestead and added it to the list for next time.

Fulham dates back 185 years and is Victoria’s oldest lived-in homestead. Owners David and Michelle have been restoring the buildings for seven years, including the guesthouse where we stayed. There are also riverfront campsites available on the property. 

We accepted Michelle’s offer of a slow flow in the cook’s quarters, now a yoga studio. Our tight muscles appreciated the stretch, while our old bones appreciated not having to camp in a howling gale; We Are Explorers, no doubt, but we’re also partial to an electric blanket.

Day 2: Kanagulk – Harrow – Dergholme

Distance: 95km
Duration: 1 hour

We helped feed Swarv, Cordi and the other alpacas before driving to Harrow. We hadn’t expected much undulation in the Wimmera Mallee, but Harrow’s rolling hills reminded us of past adventures through the Otways and Gippsland, save for the red gums straddling the Glenelg River.

Harrow’s big-ticket item is its Discovery Centre, which tells the story of the first Australian cricket team to tour overseas. The players were Aboriginal cricketers from the Wimmera Mallee, who’d learned to play while working on western Victoria’s vast pastoral stations.

The star was Unaarrimin (Johnny Mullagh), for whom the Mullagh Medal – awarded to the Boxing Day Test’s best player – is named. It’s an incredible story that many haven’t heard. As Josie, who runs the Discovery Centre, pointed out: Harrow is a small town with a big story.

Paying our respects at the historic Hermitage Hotel

That said, there’s more to Harrow than cricket. The Glenelg River Walk is a top spot for a stroll and swim, while the Hermitage Hotel is Victoria’s oldest inland pub. The publican, Suzanne, took immense pride in her work and we took an elbow in the historic bar, having enjoyed a cracking salad sanga at the Harrow Post.

After a fun adventure clambering around Baileys Rocks, we continued to the Dergholm Hotel – AKA The Pub in the Scrub – and set up camp in an adjacent field. Having been informed that the best part of the Wimmera Mallee is the old-fashioned country hospitality, we joined the locals and enjoyed what some might consider one beer too many.

The Pub in the Scrub, The Dergy, the one and only Dergholm Hotel

Isolation is a major issue for remote communities and while pubs like The Dergy can struggle financially, they play a crucial role. As one bloke put it, ‘The job will be there tomorrow, but you might not be, so come out for a beer’. He didn’t have to tell us twice. 

Day 3: Dergholme – Apsley – Edenhope – Lake Charlegrark

Distance: 75km
Duration: 1 hour

We cruised to Apsley and took the boardwalked trail to Newlands Lake, which had all but dried up. The locals call it ‘Little Kakadu’ when it’s full – a nod to the abundant life the wetlands sustain – but the lakebed is dotted with sinkholes and the water can supposedly drain overnight. The gurgling sound, like an emptying bathtub, can be heard kilometres away. 

We tucked into a pumpkin risotto at Apsley’s Border Inn before continuing to Edenhope, where we linked up with Wayne, a fourth-generation farmer who’s deeply passionate about the Wimmera landscape.

The wetlands teem with life here, especially when it’s this green!

Wayne took us down 4WD tracks and backroads, pointing out emu chicks, swamp wallabies, and an enormous mob of roos bouncing across a distant ridge. There were turtles and Blue tongue lizards and we even visited the wetland Johnny Mullagh would retreat to between cricket matches and his work on the station. 

We thanked Wayne and pushed on to Lake Charlegrark Caravan Park, where Teresa and Dez – the caravan park’s caretakers – loaned us kayaks. A pre-dinner paddle saw us serenaded by squawking cockatoos and the splish-splash of fish. Pink skies surrounded us, while the evening brought shooting stars and a silver sliver of moon.

Day 4: Lake Charlegrark – Goroke – Lower Norton – Natimuk

Distance: 111km
Duration: 1.5 hours

Sunrise was a belter, a beatific vision after days of wind and rain. We downed two strong coffees and told Teresa we’d be climbing at Dyurrite/Mount Arapiles, but also planned to stop by Goroke to see its famous silo art, and hopefully run into legendary author Gerald Murnane.

But first, sunrise

Think of the Silo Art Trail as Pimp My Ride for grain silos. These towering canvases are decked out with murals throughout the Wimmera Mallee. Goroke’s silos depict a kookaburra and magpie, as ‘Goroke’ is the Wotjobaluk word for ‘magpie’. Two new murals are being painted at Serviceton and Rainbow as I write.

The Goroke in all its warbly glory

To our surprise, Gerald Murnane was sitting outside Goroke IGA when we pulled up for breakfast. Teresa’s sister owns the supermarket and had been instructed – without our knowledge – to ask Gerald to stick around after buying his paper.

Gerald gestured for us to sit then waxed lyrical about life and literature. Where else but the Wimmera Mallee can you sit on the deserted main drag with a Nobel Prize nominee? 

Still pinching ourselves, we met Ryan – our climbing guide from Absolute Outdoors – at Dyurrite. Rain threatened but we took advantage of a weather window, walking from The Pines – Australia’s equivalent of Yosemite’s Camp Four – to the Organ Pipes, where Ryan set up a top rope.

Pulling on some trusty Wimmera Mallee rock

As Jake and I took turns climbing, Ryan explained Dyurrite’s role in Australia’s climbing scene. This is the country’s top trad-climbing area and has long attracted not only the world’s best climbers, but also working professionals, like doctors and teachers, who move to the region to be closer to the Dyurrite massif.

Dyurrite’s draw was immediately obvious despite the drizzly conditions. The solid sandstone was a dream to climb on, with juggy holds, plenty of protection and – when we took a moment to look around – the Wimmera Mallee’s plains stretching far into the distance.

Having grunted our way up the rockface, we toasted our success at Barangaroo Wines. Owners Chris and Sheila tried to talk us into a metre-long platter but wiser heads prevailed. We paired a glass of Australia’s only sparkling vermentino with a flammekueche (Alsatian-style pizza) and tried a sparkling shiraz for good measure. 

We managed to drag ourselves away from the winery and check into Arapiles Club House, a beautifully restored cottage on Natimuk’s main street. It’d be an epic place to stay with mates between climbs, and we rinsed off and relaxed before joining a hodgepodge of locals and climbers at the Natimuk Hotel.

Our plan to catch sunset from Mitre Rock was scuppered by an approaching storm, so we indulged in an eggplant curry and cold beer (naturally). Satisfied, we returned to the Club House to light the fire, set up the projector and critique Alex Honnold’s climbing technique. 

Day 5: Natimuk – Naarm/Melbourne

Distance: 330km
Duration: 3.75 hours

And just like that, our time in the Wimmera Mallee was over. We left early in an attempt to outrun yet another storm. As rain hammered the windscreen, and lightning split the sky, Jake and I left the wild west in our rear-view mirror with plans to return soon; after all, we hadn’t even visited the Dachschund Museum.