Rachel didn’t expect to find an untouched, rambling rainforest in Europe, let alone in Bosnia. But after exploring Sutjeska National Park, an untouched, breathtakingly wild corner of Europe, she believes it deserves a place on your adventure list.

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Quick Overview

Sutjeska National Park is just a two-hour drive from the tourist haven of Dubrovnik. But, cross the mountains from the coast into the rainforest and you’ll enter a whole new world. Sprawling lakes, mountains, and forests so thick they’re impossible to navigate without a guide: welcome to Europe’s last rainforest. 

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About Sutjeska National Park

Bosnia is fast becoming one of Europe’s most talked-about destinations. Sarajevo, its capital, was named one of the World’s Greatest Places by Time Magazine in 2025. But beyond Mostar’s iconic bridge (thanks, Hamish & Andy for putting this on the map!) and Sarajevo’s museums, Bosnia is keeping Sutjeska National Park a tight-lipped secret.

Best accessed through Foča (a 1.5-hour drive from Sarajevo), Sutjeska is a hub for Explorers to try white water rafting on the Tara and Drina Rivers, climb Maglić (Bosnia’s tallest mountain), and visit the site of one of Yugoslavia’s most iconic battles.

Inside the boundary of Sutjeska National Park, you’ll find Perućica, one of only two remaining primeval forests in Europe. A primeval forest (it’s ok, I had to Google it too) is what we most often refer to as old-growth forest; a forest that’s had little to no human intervention. In some areas of Perućica, the forest grows so thick that you physically cannot walk through it.

 

 

The forest reserve is only 3,500 acres, but it holds so much magic. The UNESCO-recognised site is home to trees over 300 years old, with the forest celebrating its birthday over 20,000 times.

If you’re squeezing Sutjeska in around your European summer, 3-4 days should be enough to explore this natural wonderland.

Sutjeska National Park History

Sutjeska has been a national park since the 1960s. It’s the home of one of Yugoslavia’s (Bosnia and Herzegovina was formerly part of the Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia before its fall in the 1990s) most significant World War II battles. On your drive through the park, you’ll find iconic socialist Spomeniks (monuments) dedicated to the battles and soldiers who fought them.

How to Get to Sutjeska National Park

Despite how remote Sutjeska feels, getting there is relatively easy.

By Bus

Buses to the park run from Sarajevo. You can take a direct bus to either Tjentište (the town within the park) or Foča. Foča is a town just across the river from the park and home to many white water rafting camps.

By Car

My advice is to fly into Sarajevo, pick up a hire car at the airport, and drive there yourself. This is what I did, and it meant I was free to explore the area as I pleased. Compared to Australia, it’s relatively affordable to hire a car in Bosnia. Plus, the drives are beautiful. Hiring a car is also an option if you’re staying in Dubrovnik. Just be sure you’re able to drive your car across borders when picking it up.

Where to Stay in Sutjeska National Park

Where to stay in Tjentište

The most popular place to stay (and where we stopped by for a bite to eat) is Camp Sutjeska. Here you’ll find basic bungalows right on the doorstep of the park. Hotel Mladnost is another popular yet basic spot.

If you book a guide through the national park website (I’ll get to this later!) the hotel will most likely be your meeting place, which helps if you don’t have a hire car. Don’t expect luxury, but do expect an excellent location to base yourself for your hikes.

Where to stay in Foča

If you don’t mind being further away from the park (like me!), Foča’s rafting camps make great bases. We stayed at Rajska Rijeka Rafting Camp and can’t recommend it enough. We stayed in gorgeous bungalows overlooking the forest and the snaking, aquamarine Drina River.

 

 

You’ll need to drive in and out of the park each day if you decide to base yourself here, but it means you can take advantage of the rafting. Plus, you’re between Sutjeska and the nearby Durmitor National Park in neighbouring Montenegro.

Where to Eat in Sutjeska National Park

As for where to eat, options are pretty limited. You’ll be eating dinner most evenings at your accommodation (delicious, hearty Balkan fare) and packing your own lunch when you venture out each day. Don’t forget to grab snacks on your way in.

Essential Gear for Sutjeska National Park

  • Water bottle
  • Hat
  • Sunscreen
  • Passport
  • Good quality gear for mountain scaling
  • Whistle in case of bear sighting (rare, but they do pop up here!)
  • Snacks and BYO lunches for your days exploring
  • Some essential phrases in Bosnian like thank you, hello, and asking for help

Things to Do in Sutjeska National Park

Climb Mt Maglić

Duration: 4 hours each way – allow a full day, pending chosen route

Mt Maglić (2,386m) is the hero attraction and the reason most people visit the park. This is Bosnia’s steepest peak, so avoid the winter months when the mountain is blanketed in snow and ice. It’s a steep, challenging hike, but the views are insanely rewarding!

There are multiple routes to the summit, so do your research and choose the option best suited to your ability and expectations. Advice in English is hard to come by, so if you aren’t up for some research, this may not be the hike for you. Or at least not to walk without a guide.

We chose to take the longer but less scary route from Tjentište that climbs up through the forest rather than pure cliff face like the Montenegro routes, one of which includes a via ferrata. This route is longer, yes, but much more suited to my hiking style.

Read more: Italy’s Iron Way Via Ferrata Routes Aren’t as Straightforward as Expected

The hike up took us just over four hours with stops for coffee, snacks, and pictures, and another four hours back down. For most people, it takes around three hours; I just love a scenic coffee or snack break. It’s a full day hike, so leave enough time to make it home before dark.

Wander Through Perućica Primeval Forest

Perućica Primeval Forest needs to be on everyone’s bucket list. As the area is so special, it’s well protected, meaning access is tightly controlled and comes with daily visitor caps. Because of this, your only option is to visit with a guide. You can book a guide via the national park website and explore the forest alone or as part of a mega tour that includes all the hikes mentioned here.

 

 

Personally, we fell in love with the family running our rafting camp and booked to go with them on a Jeep tour. We booked this the night before in person because the weather wasn’t in our favour, so we didn’t want to book in advance. The guides are local and spin yarns about the area’s history and nature, so it’s well worth the extra money.

One of the most popular sites is the Skakavac Waterfall. The forest is thick and without signage to protect the area, so do this hike with your guide.

Visit the Valley of the Heroes

It’s impossible to miss the Valley of the Heroes when you arrive in Sutjeska. Here you’ll find a museum and the iconic Battle of Sutjeska Yugoslavian spomenik. Follow the steps up the hillside to take a look at it close up. You’re also treated to views of Maglić from here. It’s one of my favourite views in the world! I visited during pretty intense rain and felt like I was staring out into a Jurassic landscape; it’s just magic.

Read more: 7 Tips for Rainy Day Hiking

 

Photo by Jakob Jazvic

Hike to Trnovačko Jezero (Lake)

Distance: 20.5km
Duration: Allow 8 hours

Second in popularity to Maglić is the Trnovačko Jezero (lake) hike. This hike takes you through green meadows and the shadows of Maglić and the surrounding mountains to reach the lake. The lake is elevated, so don’t be fooled – this isn’t an easy stroll through the meadows (but it’s much, much easier than Maglić)!

This hike also ventures into neighbouring Montenegro, so be sure to bring your passport along, though there’s no official border crossing. The hike takes around 5-6 hours in total.

As with most things in Sutjeska, it can be difficult to find helpful English information, so my advice is to share your plans with your accommodation and get their advice and local tips. For example, you can actually descend Maglic via this route but we had no idea at the time!

Make sure you snap a picture of the map before you leave the car park as we didn’t see any maps along the way but were able to refer back to our picture.

 

White Water Rafting

While technically not inside Sutjeska National Park, it’d be remiss to visit the region without taking a trip down the Tara and Drina Rivers via white water raft.

During my visit, I stayed at Rajska Rijeka, which is run by a local family. They’ll gear you up, and your trip will finish right on the doorstep of your accom. Your guide will drive you into Montenegro (bring your passport again!), where you’ll enter the river and raft down the most breathtaking aquamarine waters back down into Bosnia.

Drink fresh water straight from waterfalls as you float in the shade of mountain peaks and ancient forests. Just note that depending on when you visit, the rapids will be faster or slower. I visited in September and the rapids were moving quickly, but paled in comparison to the water in May when the mountain snow is freshly melted and causes wild water.

The best part? After your raft, sit on the banks of the Drina and watch clouds roll through the mountains with a beer or Bosnian coffee back at your accommodation, trading stories with your guide.

 

What it’s Like to Visit Sutjeska National Park

Visiting Sutjeska is a truly magical experience. It’s such a hidden gem that it’s incredibly unlikely to run into crowds, and we had most hikes to ourselves. We were the only guests at our accommodation for two of the four nights.

The mountain peaks and dense rainforests are just breathtaking, and so incongruous with the dry, rocky cliffs of nearby Dubrovnik. Plus, we also found it a great spot to enjoy the local food and characters. Given most signs are in the local language and most tourists are from neighbouring Balkan countries, I felt like I’d slipped into another world.

Tips For Visiting Sutjeska National Park

  • The weather can change quickly, so be prepared for all kinds, especially when trekking Mt Maglić. If in doubt, book in with a guide. It’s an affordable option and helps with learning the local lore
  • The area isn’t overly busy and lacks a large grocery store. Pack the food and drinks you’ll need on your adventures, and then eat your remaining meals at your accommodation
  • Tourists are mostly local, so people’s English can be limited. Be sure to learn key phrases and words in Bosnian. We found it helpful to learn how to order and greet people, and it was hugely appreciated by the locals who often didn’t speak English
  • Booking a guided tour is a popular option in Sutjeska, as park signage and online information aren’t as prolific as in busier parks. Guides are affordable (and sometimes required to enter) and are so knowledgeable about the area

FAQs Sutjeska National Park

Are there bears in Sutjeska National Park?

Yes, there are bears in Sutjeska National Park, it’s advised to carry a bear whistle with you for safety.

How do you get to Sutjeska National Park?

Buses to the park run from Sarajevo. You can take a direct bus to either Tjentište (the town within the park) or Foča.

Alternatively, you can fly into Sarajevo, pick up a hire car at the airport, and drive there yourself. It’s about a 1 hour and 50-minute drive from Sarajevo.

What to do in Sutjeska?

In Sutjeska, there are lots of walks to do, with one of the most difficult being the summit of Mt Maglić. Visitors can also see the Valley of Heroes, where you’ll find a museum and monument dedicated to the Battle of Sutjeska. There are also tour options to white water raft and visit the rainforest.

What animals are in the Sutjeska National Park?

Sutjeska National Park is home to a variety of animals, including Brown bears, wolves, chamois, lynx, marten, foxes, goats, boar, and wild cats.

 

Feature photo by Jakob Jazvic

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