Snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef Off of Townsville Blew All My Expectations

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Wulgurukaba People who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

No Ordinary Commute

How does a fast ferry boat ride from your tropical island home to work and back sound? It’s like something out of a farfetched novel or a Hollywood blockbuster, right? For some residents of Yunbenun/Magnetic Island off the stunning North Queensland coast, this is very much a reality. Only 20 minutes to or from Townsville, jetty to jetty, and not a single traffic light in sight.

I’m standing on the upper deck of our nimble fast cat with Sealink North Queensland as Yunbenun/Magnetic Island swiftly comes into view. Framed by the dazzling ocean and piercing blue sky, the dense, lush green, and sepia tones create a scene I could stare at all day.

It isn’t long before my fellow passengers and I offload onto Nelly Bay Ferry Terminal among swaying palm trees and deep cinnamon tans. That quintessential carefree island demeanour written on everyone’s face; we’re all somewhere remarkably beautiful, and the secret is out.

Face-to-Face With a Local

After a sensational sunrise dip at Alma Bay the following morning, I’m clambering aboard my private snorkelling trip with Pilgrim Adventures.

There isn’t a single cloud to be seen in the sky. The small, bright yellow, rigid inflatable boat whisks me off to our first snorkelling spot of the day at Arthur Bay, where I’m told – if I’m lucky – I’ll have a chance to meet ‘a true local’.

At 5,184ha, Yunbenun/Magnetic Island is fairly sizeable, but there’s still a discernible remoteness to it, an almost castaway feeling – minus shouting at a Wilson ball at the top of your lungs. A staggering 78% of Yunbenun/Magnetic Island is either a national or conservation park and beneath the waves, fringing coral reef and reef gardens showcase a marine environment that finds itself slap bang in the middle of one of the world’s largest, majestic natural wonders: the Great Barrier Reef.

Equipped with a rather sleek (read: not flattering) stinger suit, I hit the water off the back of the boat, and within seconds the clarity of the water brings into focus the myriad colours of coral below me.

Waving tentacles like fingers and huge disc-like formations a few feet below. Leaving the boat behind, I kick out further into the bay, slowly observing the colour show beneath me, occasionally stopping to dive down for a closer look. Mesmerising shades and intriguing nooks everywhere.

And then, a sudden movement catches the corner of my eye. My heart skips a beat — but not for long. Shelley, the resident green sea turtle, has made an appearance and glides into view, looking my way. She doesn’t hang around long; her interest in me is near zero. Still, it’s a beautiful moment to share with an animal who has called these waters her home for decades. Clambering back onto the boat, I tell my guide I saw her for a few fleeting seconds.

‘Yeah, she can be like that’, he laughs. ‘A bit temperamental.’

Read more: 8 Ways to Minimise Your Impact While Snorkelling and Diving

Secluded Bays

Back on the boat, it takes us just a few more minutes to skim around the next headland and into Florence Bay. Being a Marine National Park Green Zone and only accessible by walking path, this is as withdrawn a place as any to try your hand at snorkelling around Townsville.

We find our way down to a large coral bommie in the centre of the bay and are immediately surrounded by huge queenfish and inquisitive coral trout. It’s impressive to see these animals so close up relatively fearless; a fishing ban and an abundant ecosystem will do that to you, I suppose.

The wind picks up as we head further north, sending up salty spray from the bow. Turning into Radical Bay, our eyes are yet again met with another pristine patch of sand with a fringe of green behind it — there’s not a soul in sight. The driver sets up a cabana and presents me with a seat and an ice box full of goodies: cold-pressed juices, salad, cheeses, and freshly cooked prawns.

Talk about sublime picnic scenarios. After some food, there’s some exploring and scrambling over huge oversized boulders on our castaway cove before the boat reappears on the horizon.

The return journey feels relaxing between the sun beginning to dip over the island, the wind now on our back, and swimming appetites satiated. It’s been a memorable day out on the water.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Underwater Culture

Although I can’t visit this time around, back on shore, I sip coffee and read up on the Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA), just a two-hour boat ride away from Townsville. It’s a unique and innovative project offering visitors a one-of-a-kind experience to explore the beauty of the Great Barrier Reef and its marine life.

The museum features a myriad of artworks by internationally renowned underwater sculptor, Jason deCaires Taylor, in various locations around the lagoon of John Brewer Reef. These include the Coral Greenhouse, with its 20 reef guardians and the newly installed Ocean Sentinels Marine Science Snorkel Trail. Each installation is designed to provide a unique and immersive experience, creatively showcasing the reef’s beauty and its marine life.

The Coral Greenhouse, for example, features sculptural coral reef formations that provide a habitat for marine life and encourage the growth of new coral.

Back on land, Townsville’s iconic Strand foreshore (and also part of the MOUA cohort), you’ll find the Ocean Siren, a 3m tall sculpture that changes colour in response to the ocean’s temperature through a live data stream connected to the weather station on Davies Reef.

MOUA offers visitors an opportunity to learn about the importance of marine conservation and how they can contribute to preserving the Great Barrier Reef – a remarkable project that highlights the splendour and importance of the Great Barrier Reef in an inspiring way. It’s a must-see destination for anyone interested in marine life, art, and conservation.

Robots Raising Coral

‘What we’re doing here is offering people the opportunity to be a part of coral regeneration and have a real-life interaction with these organisms,’ says Stephen Rodan, President of the Beyond Coral Foundation and the founder of CHARM – an innovative and state-of-the-art robotic coral farming initiative, based from Yunbenun/Magnetic Island.

CHARM coral farming is a revolutionary method of coral restoration gaining popularity worldwide. This cutting-edge technique involves growing coral fragments in nurseries in a controlled environment, where they can be protected from predators and environmental stressors until they’re mature enough to be transplanted onto damaged reefs. The acronym ‘CHARM’ stands for Coral Husbandry Automated Raceway Machine.

At his facility right next to the ferry terminal, Stephen and his colleagues show me the various tanks and the robotic arm swinging over the coral pieces to clean and feed them on demand. Scenes from movies such as Terminator and I, Robot flash through my head as the mechanical limb slides over the water, except this machine doesn’t have a mandate to kill — quite the opposite.

One of the greatest benefits of CHARM coral farming is it allows for the restoration of damaged coral reefs on a large scale. By growing coral fragments in nurseries, conservationists can quickly and efficiently produce many corals, which can then be transplanted onto damaged reefs. This helps speed up the recovery process and can significantly impact the health of a reef ecosystem.

Another advantage is it can be used to grow a wide variety of coral species. Conservationists can select the most appropriate species for a particular reef ecosystem, ensuring the transplanted corals are well-suited to their new environment.

Plus, CHARM provides opportunities for scientific research and education. By monitoring the growth and development of corals in nurseries, researchers can better understand the factors that influence coral health and growth. This knowledge can then inform future conservation efforts and educate the public about the importance of coral reefs.

‘And if you feel like maintaining your own piece of coral and feeding it yourself, you can — all you need is an internet connection’, smiles Prodan.

Read more: How Global Heating Affects Our Coral Reefs and Marine Life

The public can buy a Coral Charm, enabling them to watch, feed, and care for their very own coral with the push of a button. With the use of the CHARM BOT portal and a unique ID, anyone, anywhere in the world, can take care of their specific coral inside the aquarium.

Personally, this eclipses Tamagotchi, Facebook, and TikTok all put together.

What a charming (ha) experience to be able to witness the majesty of the reef below the surface and learn how all those big-brain scientists are caring for and restoring it back on land. Damn nature, you awesome.

Read more:Islands, Reef, Rainforests, and Waterfalls Galore: The Underrated Region QLD’s Hiding from Us

Photos thanks to @ryanbaldwinnn