The Victorian Government has announced amendments to the draft Management Plan for Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park, which aims to protect cultural and environmental values in the park, but will consquently see numerous rock climbing sites close to the public.

 

In addition to the amended management plan, $1.7 million will be invested in the park to improve the facilities, tracks, and access points. Minister for Environment, Steve Dimopoulos said, ‘We want as many Victorians as possible to enjoy the great outdoors. This investment allows more visitors to appreciate the park’.

Dyurrite/the Mount Arapiles region is recognised internationally as a premier climbing destination with secure quartzite rock faces, natural beauty, and over 2,000 established climbs that cater to beginners and experts alike.

Inside the Management Plan

Archaeological and environmental surveys were conducted between November 2020 and February 2023 by Parks Victoria with the support of Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC), to assess the impacts of recreational activities such as rock climbing on the cultural and environmental landscape.

The study area included 153 rock climbing areas with thousands of rock climbing routes and more than 35km of informal walking tracks leading to and between these rock climbing areas.

Through the surveys, significant discoveries included:

  • one of the largest Indigenous stone quarry complexes found in Australia
  • rock art with evidence dating back at least 3,000 years
  • threatened plants including the Skeleton Fork fern (Psilotum nudum) and the Western Pellitory (Parietaria australis)

Cultural heritage in Victoria is protected under legislation such as Victoria’s Aboriginal Heritage Act 2006. Therefore, Parks Victoria as the land manager is obligated to protect cultural values from harm.

Under the amended Management Plan, rock climbing is banned in Zone 1 (conservation), which will see only 80 of the original climbing sites remain open to the public. Prominent climbing sites that will close include:

  • The Pharaohs
  • Yesterday Valley
  • Mitre Rock
  • Tiptoe Ridge

Whilst, the amended management plan has the primary aim of allowing rock climbing to continue within Dyurrite in a way that doesn’t harm cultural and environmental values, Climbing Victoria has stated that ‘despite 90% of the parks‘ visitors being climbers, the climbing community has not been engaged in the development of the management plan’.

Instead, Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network (GWRN) provided a report, from a rock climbing perspective, to assist decision-makers in forming policies and conclusions.

As this is a draft of the Management Plan, public consultation and feedback are open until the 1st of December, although it should be highlighted that this consultation will not be reviewing any changes to the areas that need to be protected.

 

pat corden, climbing, top rope, arapiles, victoria, lachie thomas climbing

Can culture and climbing co-exist?

This isn’t the first time climbing and culture have been seemingly at odds in Victoria, with the closure of climbing routes in the nearby Grampians causing huge upset amongst the Victorian and broader Australian climbing community. And it’s little different this time around.

Many Victorian climbers are outraged by the news, with some expressing their disappointment on social media with one commentator adding, ‘This is just heartbreaking. Mt Arapiles isn’t just a climbing spot – it’s home for so many of us….To see the Victorian government impose sweeping closures without even talking to the people who love and care for this place is a real slap in the face’.

In a statement about the changes, Climbing Victoria has urged the Victorian government to consider the impact these proposed changes will have, not only on the Victorian community, but on the nearby towns of Natimuk and Horsham which benefit from the large amounts of tourism climbers bring.

Minister for Treaty and First Peoples, Natalie Hutchins said, ‘It’s important we get the balance right, respect cultural heritage and allow Victorians to continue to visit and enjoy the outdoors in the Dyurrite Cultural Landscape’.

Meanwhile, the Victorian National Parks Association has stated its support for the proposed changes, deeming them essential in reducing the impact on cultural and natural values, with Parks and Nature Campaigner Jordan Crooks stating, ‘the park is being loved to death’.

Should the proposed amendments go ahead as planned, radical changes within the park will be underway and the first thing to go will be the fixed protection points where climbing is no longer allowed.

 

Images thanks to @patcorden

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