Maria Island: The Windswept Beauty of Tasmania’s ‘Other’ Island

Whether a rugged escape for the self-reliant traveller or a pleasant day trip for families, Maria Island is one of Tasmania’s best kept secrets. Stu has visited the island twice, summiting Mt Maria, peering over the edges of windswept cliffs, and even sitting front row at a wombat fight!

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Puthikwilayti people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Quick Overview

Often overlooked in favour of the more glamorous and instagrammable Bruny Island, Maria Island has its own unique charm. Off the southeast coast of Tasmania, Maria Island abounds with wildlife, while its hiking trails lead to some of the state’s best views. 

About Maria Island

Exploration of Maria Island is only possible by foot or pedal, and its charm lies in this simple nature and unspoiled environment.

On a day trip, visitors can explore the colonial settlement of Darlington, the dazzling sandstone rockfaces of the Painted Cliffs, or the epic Bishop and Clerk track which traverses the windswept northern edge of the island. 

Read more: Sunrise to Sunset on Tassie’s Maria Island

The famous painted cliffs display myriad reds and yellows

If you opt to stay longer, summiting Mt Maria is achievable in a day, and there are campgrounds at Darlington, Frenchs Farm, and Encampment Cove.

Maria Island’s History

The Puthikwilayti were the original custodians of wukaluwikiwayna, and the surrounding area known as Oyster Bay. For tens of thousands of years, the Puthikwilayti made regular visits by canoe to explore and hunt on the island.

In 1642, wukaluwikiwayna was dubbed Maria’s Eylandt by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, in honour of Maria Van Aelst, the wife of Anthony Van Diemen, Tasman’s sponsor. 

Following British colonisation, the name was adjusted to Maria Island. The pronunciation – and this is important when speaking with locals – is Mariah (as in Carey), not Maria (as in Sharapova).

In 1825 the British administration used Maria Island as a penal colony. Yet, it proved ineffective, with many prisoners rioting or escaping, taking their chances on the frigid waters of the Mercury Passage. In 1850, after rebranding as an agricultural workcamp, the penal concept was abandoned. For the next hundred years there were attempts at launching industries on the island, without success. In the early 1960s plans were floated for a flora and fauna reserve, then in 1971 Maria Island was declared a national park.

After half a century as a national park, Maria Island is home to a famously-huge wombat population

How to Get to Maria Island

Maria Island is only accessible by ferry, with no cars permitted. Daily ferry services operate from Triabunna, a 70 minute drive from Hobart, or 2.5 hours from Launceston. Timetable and booking information is available on the Encounter Maria website. Encounter Maria also runs a daily shuttle bus between Hobart and Triabunna from October to May.

Exploration of Maria Island is only possible by foot or pedal, and attractions such as the Painted Cliffs are only accessible at low tide. Planning your activities is the key to maximising your time on Maria Island.

Maria Island Commissariat Store is now its reception and visitor centre, worth stopping in!

Where to Stay on Maria Island

Accommodation options on Maria Island are limited and basic, and all overnight visitors are expected to be self-sufficient. There’s nowhere to buy food, and all water sourced on the island should be boiled or treated before drinking.

In Darlington there’s the option of a tent campground or bunkhouses, inside the old Penitentiary. Neither have electricity, though the campground does have free gas BBQs, while toilets at the penitentiary are located outside the building. Booking and fees apply to both, and information can be found on the Parks Tasmania website.

There are additional campgrounds at Frenchs Farm and Encampment Cove, both of which are free with a valid Parks Pass.

Read more: Hiking Frenchs Farm Circuit on Maria Island, Tasmania

Where to Eat on Maria Island

There’s one fabulous place to eat on Maria Island, and it’s called Café You!

That’s right, there are no cafés, coffee shops, or even snacks to be found anywhere on Maria Island, so whatever you bring, that’s what you’ll be eating!

At Darlington Campground there are free gas BBQs, otherwise campers are required to bring portable stoves to cook meals. No fires are allowed anywhere on the island.

Read more: 10 Tips on How To Leave No Trace in Our Wild Places

Part of Maria Island’s charm is its wild beauty. No cars, carparks or roads here

Things to Do on Maria Island

Maria Island has something for everyone – from history buffs to wildlife lovers, families, and outdoor Explorers;

• Darlington: The port of Darlington is the starting point for Maria Island and is home to the remains of Maria Island’s colonial settlement, including stores, a cemetery, and administration blocks. Meanwhile visitors can get a taste of convict life by staying a night in the old penitentiary bunkhouse
• Wildlife: A short walk from Darlington, past Millers Cottage towards the fossil cliffs, is one of the best spots for wildlife viewing. The island is home to wombats, pademelons, kangaroos, and a wide variety of birds. All visitors are required to stay two to five metres away from wildlife. There’s also a free nightly wildlife walk with park rangers which I found fun and educational.
• Hiking trails: There are numerous hiking trails on Maria Island. Trails to the Painted Cliffs, Bishop and Clerk, and the summit of Mt Maria are the most popular, while there are overnight hikes to campgrounds at Encampment Cove and Frenchs Farm

Bishop and Clerk is a must do day hike for fit walkers

• Cycling: Navigating Maria Island on two wheels is a great way to explore, with many of the walking trails also accessible by bike. Riding allows you to pack more in if you only have a short timeframe, but remember to bring your own repair kit, as there’s nothing available on the island

Read more: Bikepacking on Maria Island in Tasmania

• Snorkelling and diving: In the warmer months (unless you’re an acclimatised local), Maria Island is a nice spot for snorkelling and diving. The northern and western shores of the island are protected as marine nature reserves, with plenty of underwater activities, including a network of caves in the limestone cliffs at Fossil Bay
• Fishing: Fishing is only allowed in the northern (blue) section of the marine reserve. There are strict protections around in the western (red) section, and anglers should check the Parks Tasmania website for up to date info before casting off
• Hunt for Fossils: The Fossil Cliffs house 300 million year old fossilised shells and corals, all on display after a brief period of mining limestone for cement. You’ll lose track of time as you walk past thousands of fossils – fair enough too, it’s one of the densest displays of them anywhere in the world.

Essential Gear for Maria Island

All visitors to Maria Island should be self-sufficient, as there are little to no facilities available on the island. I’ve made a helpful checklist for day hikes and multi day hikes, while Encounter Maria also has a list on their website.

Some essentials that everyone should bring include:

• Food & water: Bring enough food and water, or water treatment, for the length of your stay. There’s nowhere to buy food, and no potable water on Maria Island.
• Warm and windproof clothing: Tasmania’s weather can change quickly, at any time of year, and there’s little shelter on Maria Island. Winds, especially on the coastal walking tracks can be extreme, both in strength and temperature. Pack to the conditions and prepare for them to change
• First Aid Kit: Even if only visiting for a day, bring a first aid kit. Maria Island has few visitors, even in high season, and there are limited resources on the island to respond to medical incidents
• Walking shoes: You’ll be walking a lot on Maria Island, sometimes on uneven surfaces, so it’s essential to have stable and comfortable walking shoes
• Rubbish bag: Whatever you bring onto the island, you must also take out. Following the ‘Leave No Trace’ principles are critical to maintaining the unspoiled beauty of Maria Island

What it’s Like to Visit Maria Island

While the crowds flock to Bruny Island, all to take the same picture atop the isthmus, Maria Island is just there doing its thing. Unbothered and unhurried.

The charm of Tasmania’s ‘other’ island is found in its disconnection from modernity. I found that Maria Island allows a reconnection to nature, embrace of back to basics travel. If you need something on Maria Island, you bring it, otherwise, you go without.

The trails on Maria Island are windswept and wild, I have walked for hours without encountering another soul. The Painted Cliffs, only accessible at low tide, are a dazzling display. The carved cliffs are decorated with ice cream like swirls of vanilla and caramel and the rock pools home to crabs and crustaceans. Meanwhile, a scramble across scree leads to the summit of Mt Maria, with views of its own isthmus (unspoiled by a car park) and the southern reaches of the island.

Cliffs above fossil bay at the start of the Bishop and Clerk track

Then there’s the wildlife. The wombats, pademelons, and Cape Barron geese are indifferent to visitors, nonchalantly munching on grass and leaves while you pass by. 

One of the highlights on Maria Island, if you’re as lucky as I was, is seeing a wombat fight. Yep, those cuddly little creatures can really brawl! Wombats are ferociously territorial and during mating season they headbutt, bite, and scratch in bloody bouts of wombat combat!

Finally, wherever you set down for the night, Darlington, Encampment Cove, or Frenchs Farm, the evenings on Maria Island are a blissful soundtrack of natural sounds. There may be winds blowing in, light rain on your tent, or possums wandering in the campgrounds, while the night sky is a magnificent canvas of glittering stars.

On a clear day you can see Schouten Island and Freycinet to the north

Tips For Visiting Maria Island

• Stay a night: Maria Island has so much to explore, and if possible, it’s best to stay overnight
• Plan your time: Especially important for day visitors is to plan your activities. The ferry won’t wait for you, so make sure you have enough time to complete all your exploring and return to Darlington
• Unplug: There’s no electricity on Maria Island, and limited phone connection. Embrace the disconnection by bringing a book, a crossword, or the weekend newspaper and live like it’s the 20th century!

The only reminder of the modern world, don’t miss it!