The Lurujarri Dreaming Trail is a Cultural Pilgrimage in North West WA

The Lurujarri Dreaming Trail treks 95km along the Kimberley coastline on Goolarabooloo Country. Explorer Feather spent nine days walking on Country with the Traditional Owners in their annual pilgrimage.

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Goolarabooloo people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

The Lurujarri Dreaming Trail is a walk in the desert in the far north west of Western Australia that I’d heard about for years. It was always a dream of mine to go, but the distance and time frames always prevented me, as the trail is only open once a year, in August.

Finally in 2019, I flew from Brisbane to Broome (probably one of the longest flights you can do in Australia), and found myself in this iridescent land, that was so unlike my own, and one I’d never seen before.

The walk was to take place over ten days, with around 30 people I’d never met, plus all the mob that would join us, and all the children who’d turn up at camp each night, just as excited to be with us as we were to be with their people.

It took place during the season of Barrgana – the dry season and one of six seasons followed by First Nations people in this part of Australia. The elders of the Goolarabooloo led the way, for an amazing, insightful 95km trek, beginning in Rubibi/Broome and ending at Minarriny. Lurujarri means coastal dunes, which describes this stretch of country on the Dampier Peninsula.

Throughout this pilgrimage we walked through some beautiful landscapes of varying colours, with the most striking nature we encountered being the bright red pindan cliffs, known as Yanniyarri.

These bright red cliffs that fall away into the stark white sand, which itself ripples into the bright turquoise water. Through most of the journey we hugged the Dampier Peninsula, walking along the coastline, before venturing inland into the sand dunes to find camp for the night.

Arriving on Goolarabooloo Country

The journey began in the centre of town, where we gave our bags to the drivers, were introduced to the leaders of the group, including Dave whose great grandfather was one of the original people who opened this tour up to white fellas.

Everyone introduced themselves, and with open minds and open hearts, we began our walking journey. After we walked through town we headed to Cable Beach to begin walking north for what would be the longest day of 25km.

Cable Beach is for sure the most famous beach in Broome, if not the most famous tourist destination in the north west corner of Australia. Here the rules are lax around driving giant 4WDs on the beach to watch that mighty burning star set into the ocean – this area is what the elders referred to as ‘sunset country.’

As the cars arrived in flocks, the leaders of our journey explained the harm it was doing to the ecosystem and the beach under all those heavy car tyres. Needless to say, after I’d completed the walk and spent a few days enjoying the sunset at Cable Beach, I looked on at these giant cars with annoyance at their lack of awareness.

As we walked out of town, we stopped to check out a variety of plants and were informed of what they were, the botanical name, the Indigenous name, and what they’re used for. With knowledge like this shared, also comes a certain level of disappointment, as it really shows how far removed we are from living such rich and fulfilled lives in tune with nature. A way of existing in modern times that’s been mostly lost.

However, I feel there’s been an interest in recent times, for more people to understand First Nations culture. Having opportunities like this journey and other connection camps that are readily available, allows non-First Nations people to gain an insight into something so profound, magic, and in tune with the nature that surrounds us.

Literally Slowing Down

Walking on sand just about doubles the time, persistence, and energy needed for any walk. And the stretch of beach on the first day seemed to go on, and on, and on. It did feel like a pilgrimage though – one that, at times, seemed would never end. The sun had begun to set over the ocean as we finally turned into the dunes to find our campsite for the night.

Every night we slept in swags on the soft, red, barren earth, sometimes in dry creek beds, other times amongst the paper bark trees. Sleeping in swags ensured we were close to the earth, and there was the feeling of literally being held by Mother Nature as we slept.

I was visited by spirits on multiple occasions, as I could sense the land was very activated and alive. Our whole journey was through middens and areas that’d been used by the Goolarabooloo tribe for centuries, and I could sense energetic movement throughout our walk. I spoke to the elders leading the walk and they’d experienced similar things themselves, so I didn’t feel frightened.

Every night we’d gather under the stars and listen to ancient tales – tales of the law, of the Bugarregarre, the Dreamtime. There was no noise out there, no distractions, just the peaceful rustling of the leaves and the rippling of the water. Eating dinner and gathering in circles, like our First Nations people have done for years, sitting by the fire and enjoying a meal together.

Connecting to Country, Culture, and Spirits

Paddy Roe, a Njikina man, was given the privilege of being lore-keeper and established the idea of opening up the Lurujarri Dreaming Trail in 1987, as a way to inspire the Goolarabooloo community to re-immerse in their land and culture.

It’s also a way for white fellas to gain a little insight into the lifestyle of this tribe and the beauty of this ancient land.

Walking through Country, we crossed deeply spiritual places, places that held ancient stories, middens with leftover grinding stones, and sharp rocks that could only have been used for knives.

At some point along the trek I found some snake bones which I picked up and took with me. The next day I realised my Nan’s pocket watch that I’d brought with me was missing. I never found it. It was the ultimate trade and a good lesson of the consequences of not respecting the land and its ownership.

From that experience, I now really believe that every part of the Australian landscape has a deeper connection and resonance, and that we should never take anything without permission.

The Colours of the Country

Over the course of the walk, we passed through beach, reef, dunes, bush, mangroves, and salt plains. Afternoons were spent resting, reading, playing with the children, listening to stories, and crafting. While I was there I was fortunate to craft two pairs of cumbuk/clapping sticks out of red gum.

Throughout the journey we learnt about the native plants that were in flower, and the medicinal and productive uses for them, as well as different plants you can eat. We learnt about the animals that were present throughout our trip and whether it was their breeding or hunting time.

The yanniyarri/red cliffs in this area run all the way to dugal/Flat Rock in the north, before the lurujarri/coastal dunes begin again. The word dugal means red ochre, which is abundant in this area and what the Flat Rock area is named after. We also passed through lardik/freshwater mangrove, garnboor/freshwater paperbark, and gunuru/white gum trees.

We got to forage honey from the native Melaleuca trees, which I’d never done before. The trick is to follow native bees to see which tree they surround. When we found the tree, we knew that was the source of the honey and our leaders cut into it (in a way that didn’t damage the tree) and we found thick, delicious, native honey, foraged straight from the tree.

One of the campsites we stayed at was not only littered with old campfires, but also the remnants of giant sea turtles. I found this quite disturbing, but was assured that local mob from the area are allowed to hunt turtles.

While we were on the pilgrimage, we also feasted on jugan/dugon, as it was the season of Barrgana and this is when they are the fattest and therefore juiciest and tastiest. It tasted like a very chewy, very fatty steak – I did not enjoy it.

More than anything I left with a deep sense of connection to land and Country. The elders of the Goolabooroo tribe still live with deeply integrated spiritual beliefs and have a connection to this land that is very prominent.

Walmadan was a leader of a tribal group in this area and it’s believed that he still protects the area. We were instructed at the start of the journey to always use our liyan (your gut-feeling) when entering into an area. I’ll always look back at this pilgrimage with fond memories, and highly recommend it to anyone who loves culture, adventure, and walking.