Hidden in Japan’s Kii mountains, the Kumano Kodo is an ancient trail network once walked by emperors and nobles. It weaves through mossy forests, quiet villages, and sacred shrines, all leading to Kumano Hongu Taisha. Explorer Kiera shares her five-day journey along the Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, the most well-known path.

Quick Overview

The Nakahechi Route of the Kumano Kodo sits in Wakayama, about two hours south of Osaka. The whole route is about 70km long, and I say about because there are multiple routes you can take. But for me, an average-paced hiker who likes to stop to look at the trees, it took five days. Get ready for majestic shrines, friendly locals, and a path that waves up and down like the ocean.

 

Jump to Section

Kumano Kodo Quick Facts

Distance: 68-72km (depending on chosen route)
Duration: 5 days
Total elevation gain: 4,160m

 

About Kumano Kodo

There’s something different about walking a pilgrimage; it’s not just another hiking trail. The difference is found in the culture, spirituality, history, and quiet moments in between. As I walked the forested paths of the Kumano Kodo, I was greeted by friendly locals, and was once even invited to stay in the home of a shrine master. There aren’t many places left in the world like this.

I’ve hiked the Kumano Kodo four times and keep coming back to help guide others along the trail. The deep connection with the land and people makes this trail unforgettable.

 

 

The Nakahechi Route, once walked by emperors, now draws travellers from all over the world. With UNESCO status and the Dual Pilgrim program, it’s become a path for those seeking nature, culture, or a bit of peace. The Dual Pilgrim program connects the Camino de Santiago with the Kumano Kodo and offers a unique ceremony at Kumano Hongu Taisha for pilgrims who have completed both trails.

 

Kumano Kodo History

People have been walking the Kumano Kodo for over a thousand years. Emperors, samurai, and everyday travellers all made the journey to the three sacred shrines of Kumano. It isn’t just a hike, it’s said to be a path of renewal.

The trail is rooted in Shinto, where nature is sacred. Trees, rocks, waterfalls, even the mist, are believed to hold spirit and meaning.

The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage trails in the world with UNESCO status, alongside Spain’s Camino de Santiago. These two ancient paths are miles apart, but both are walked for the same reason: to reconnect and move forward.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

@farahkhad

How to Get to the Kumano Kodo

By Public Transport

Getting to the Kumano Kodo trailhead is easy enough. I jumped on the train from Osaka and rode south for about two hours to Kii-Tanabe. Right outside the station, there’s the Kumano Kodo tourism office where I picked up a free map and pilgrim passport, which can be stamped at different check points along the trail.

From there, I caught a local bus to Takijiri-oji, the trailhead, where the path kicks off right behind a small shrine and heads straight uphill.

There are many options for which bus to take (91 Rapid [Kumano Kodo], 81 Kumano Hongu line, 85 Kumano Hongu line, 95 Kumano line), but check times beforehand as they’re not particularly frequent. They all leave from right outside the Kumano Kodo information centre at the entrance of the train station.

@farahkhad

Where to Stay Along the Kumano Kodo

There are a few ways to stay overnight on the Nakahechi Trail, like campsites, homestays, guesthouses, and traditional ryokan. Minshuku, the cosy family-run spots, are my favourite, but they book out fast, so I had to plan 3-6 months ahead to book those.

Wild camping isn’t allowed here as it’s a protected UNESCO site, but there are three paid campsites along the trail. They’re spread out, so when I camped the trail, I had to factor in quite long hiking days to reach the campsites before sunset.

My favourite accommodation on the trail is Kiri No Sato Organic Lodge in Takahara. It has the perfect combination of Camino vibes and Japanese hospitality.

 

 

Even though I love camping, staying in family-run guest houses is the best option for the Kumano Kodo. You’re welcomed with a bow, shown to a tatami room, and treated to an onsen soak and home-cooked feast. Sashimi, tempura, miso, pickles, and a warm futon to end the day. It’s the Japan you imagine in the storybooks, and the perfect way to get a personal experience of Japanese culture.

Skill Level

Intermediate

Don’t let the short distance fool you; the climbs make this trail tough. The Kumano Kodo is full of steep ups and downs that surprise a lot of hikers. It’s best for those with some hiking experience. You don’t need to be a hardcore hiker, but you should be comfortable hiking on uneven terrain and experienced on multi-day trails. Good shoes are a must, as is being ready for wet weather.

Essential Gear for the Kumano Kodo

Packing for the Kumano Kodo really depends on when you’re going. Winter can hit with snow and icy mornings, while summer brings sticky humidity and heat. And since Wakayama is one of Japan’s rainiest prefectures, rain gear is a must no matter the season.

My favourite time to hike is definitely spring and autumn. Think cherry blossoms in bloom or golden-red leaves lighting up the forest, crunching beneath your feet.

Here’s my go-to packing list for the Nakahechi Route:

  • Lightweight rain jacket, rain pants, day pack rain cover
  • Waterproof hiking boots
  • Hiking poles (trust me, they’re needed on the downhills)
  • Warm fleece or jumper
  • Extra socks (stash an extra dry pair in your day pack)
  • Blister wool
  • 2 x 1L water bottles or a hydration bladder (Japan’s tap water is drinkable)
  • Sun hat
  • Rubbish bag (there aren’t public bins in Japan, so take rubbish with you)
  • Snacks or trail mix
  • Thermals if you’re hiking in early spring or late autumn
  • Bear spray
  • First aid kit
  • Japanese SIM card or emergency device

You don’t need to pack loads because guesthouses have towels and toiletries. But having the right hiking gear makes all the difference between a tough hike and an enjoyable one.

 

How much does it cost to hike the Kumano Kodo?

Hiking the Kumano Kodo doesn’t require any permits or entry fees, but there are some costs to consider along the way. Here’s a quick breakdown of the average expenses:

  • Accommodation (Japanese-style room with full board including dinner, breakfast, and packed lunch): $170-250 AUD per night, depending on where you stay
  • Onsen visits: $5-10 AUD
  • Bus fares along the trail: $3-$9.50 AUD (don’t forget to board from the back of the bus and grab a numbered ticket from the machine when you enter)
  • Vending machine treats: $1-$3 AUD each
  • Stamp book and map: Free from the Tourism office in Kii-Tanabe
  • Tips: Not necessary – tipping is considered rude in Japan

What’s it Like to Hike the Kumano Kodo

Imagine this: a long day on the trail, followed by a soak in a hot onsen, dinner made with local produce, and a futon on tatami floors waiting for you. Can you think of a better way to end a hiking day?

Walking the Kumano Kodo feels like stepping back in time. Picture quiet mountain villages, old timber homes, and lush rice paddies. It’s a slice of Japan that feels worlds away from the usual modern tourist spots. I’ve walked this trail four times and it keeps calling me back. It’s tough at times, the climbs are steep, and the trail can be challenging, but that’s part of what makes it so rewarding.

Even though more international hikers are now discovering the Kumano Kodo, it still holds onto its traditional nature. Locals still walk the path and visit the shrines to pray.

 

5-Day Kumano Kodo Hiking Itinerary

Day 1 – Takijiri-oji to Takahara

Distance: 4km
Duration: 2-3 hours
Total elevation gain: 430m
Total elevation loss: 200m

My highlights:

  • Crawling through the rock cave at Tanai Kaguri
  • The view from Takahara
  • Sitting by the fire watching the stars

Where to Stay

This night I stayed at Kiri-no-Sato Organic Lodge, and I highly recommend trying their house-made plum wine!

 

I started bright and early in Osaka and took the two-hour train to Kii-Tanabe. First stop was the Tourist Information Centre to grab my map and stamp my passport. I was going to collect as many stamps along the trail as I could. They’re often found in cute, wooden, shrine-shaped structures at the main shrines and sites along the trail.

After a bus ride to the trailhead, I got off in Takijiri and started a steep climb towards Takahara. After a few kilometres, I came to Tanai Kaguri, a rock tunnel believed by locals to bring rebirth. So of course, I climbed through, pushing my backpack in front of me.

 

 

From there, the trail got more and more uneven and was full of exposed roots. From the first viewpoint, I could see the bus stop I’d just climbed from. Reaching the top of the incline felt great as I walked into Takahara, a small village of just 75 people.

 

Day 2 – Takahara to Chikatsuyu-oji

Distance: 13km
Duration: 6-8 hours
Total elevation gain: 830m
Total elevation loss: 650m

My highlights:

  • Watching the clouds roll in the valley at sunrise
  • Crossing little handmade wooden bridges
  • Seeing the 300-year-old Sakura tree lit up at night

Where to Stay

The most beautiful place to stay is at Nonagase Guest House, home to a 300-year-old cherry blossom tree and a cosy beer garden. And for my campers, there’s a campsite called Iris Park Auto Camping Ground.

 

I woke early to watch the sea of clouds roll into the valley and see sunrise over the Hatenashi mountains. After a delicious breakfast, I grabbed my bento lunch and hit the trail. The day started with a steep climb through a forest, passing honesty stalls and a dilapidated teepee that used to be a pilgrim rest stop.

The scenery changed as I walked, with ponds and different trees leading me to the remains of the first teahouse.

 

 

I saw plaques marking the graves of pilgrims who didn’t make it through the mountains. The Three-Fold Moon viewpoint was overgrown, so I skipped it.

I stopped at the Michi-no-Eki for a lunch break and grabbed freshly made ice cream. Before I knew it, I’d collected my last stamp and reached Chikatsuyu village. I hit up the local supermarket for snacks, then continued to my homestay.

 

Day 3 – Chikatsuyu-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha

Distance: 25km (17km with the bus)
Duration: 9-12 hours (6-9 hours with the bus)
Total elevation gain: 780m
Total elevation loss: 980m

My highlights:

  • Seeing the largest torii gate in Japan
  • The dual pilgrim ceremony
  • Soaking in the mineral-rich Yunomine onsen after the longest day
  • Eating Onsen Tamago (eggs cooked in the hot spring)

Where to Stay

There are many great places to stay in Yunomine, but I love Minshuku Takiyoshi. If you’re camping, there are two campgrounds near Hongu: Otonashi-no-Sato and Tanabe-Kawayu Camping Ground.

 

Day three brings two options: either hike the whole trail or skip the first section of road walking with a bus. I chose the bus and hike combo to ensure I had enough time to explore Kumnao Hongu Taisha shrine before it closed.

The trail had a few steep climbs and felt the wildest today. My last climb through dense forest up to Hosshinmon-oji was tough, but it was all downhill from there, and what better way to do it than with an ice cream in hand from the vending machine.

 

 

In the late afternoon, I reached Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three main shrines on the Kumano Kodo. I received my last stamp and visited the tourism office behind the bus stop to get my certificate. I then had to reclimb the stairs to the shrine and present my certificate to receive a golden shell and complete my drum ceremony. It was such a special way to end a big hiking day.

That night I caught the bus to Yunomine village to bathe in the miraculous healing hot spring waters of Yunomine. Before getting the bus, I walked over to the largest torii gate in Japan to get an iconic photo.

 

Day 4 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Koguchi

Distance: 13km
Duration: 4.5-6 hours
Total elevation gain: 670m
Total elevation loss: 690m

My highlights:

  • The trees!
  • Endless views of the Kii mountain range

Where to Stay

Campers, you’re in luck as you can camp in the garden at Koguchi Shizen-no-ie, and the owner can arrange meals for you if requested early in the day.

 

If I had more days, I’d have taken a rest day in Yunomine village to explore the extra trails around Hongu. But with only five days, I made the most of my morning by waking up early to dip my feet in the sulphur-smelling water that runs straight through the centre of Yunomine village.

After breakfast, I jumped on the bus to Ukegawa to start the trail to the second grand shrine, Kumano Nachi Taisha. The trail started with a steady incline, winding through forests with stunning views. Along the way I passed smaller oji’s (subsidiary shrines) and noticed the numbered trail markers going backwards, because all trails lead to Kumano Hongu Taisha.

 

 

This night I stayed at a small guesthouse in the village of Koguchi. Koguchi Shizen-no-ie Lodging was once a schoolhouse and was then converted to a guesthouse to house pilgrims. The rooms are traditional, and the sound of the river passing by is the perfect soundtrack for a great night’s sleep.

 

 

There’s only one supermarket in town, and it’s in a local woman’s house. She was so excited to meet me, and when I gave her a little Australian koala as a gift, she beckoned me towards her display cabinet that had a whole shelf dedicated to all the koalas she’d received from past Australian hikers. If you’re visiting, make sure to bring her a small token from your country to add to her collection.

 

Day 5 – Koguchi to Nachisan

Distance: 14km
Duration: 7-9 hours
Total elevation gain: 1260m
Total elevation loss: 930m

My highlights:

  • The conch shell send off
  • Seeing the tallest waterfall in Japan
  • Walking through the camphor tree

Where to Stay

If Mitaki Sanso is booked, head down by bus to Kii-Katsuura instead, where there are many accommodation options. Make sure to wake up at 6am to check out the tuna auction in Kii-Katsuura and enjoy fresh sashimi by the sea.

 

In the morning, I woke to friendly Japanese aunties making breakfast in the converted school cafeteria. As I was walking out of the guest house, the owner blasted the Kumano conch shell as a salute to the hikers heading to the trail and the biggest climb of the pilgrimage.

The trail started with a steep climb that went on for about two hours until we reached Echizen-toge pass. I sat at the pass for a while, amongst the fog and tall skinny trees, eating all my snacks. The trail continued up and down, but nothing like that first climb.

And then I saw it. The ocean.

 

 

From the viewpoint before the descent, I took a break for lunch and stared at the ocean that I hadn’t seen in days. I knew I wasn’t far. I walked down the hill as fast as the slippery rocks would let me to reach Kuamno Nachi Taisha.

And then suddenly, after countless zig zags down the mountain, I arrived at the first shrine of the complex and saw the traditional rope pilgrim shoes hanging below the shrine. I had arrived. A few more steps revealed the largest single-drop waterfall in Japan, Nachi no Taki, and then the iconic red three-story pagoda, Seiganto-ji Temple.

 

 

I wrote a wish on a wooden plaque and placed it inside the ancient camphor tree near the grand shrine before hiking down to the waterfall. Afterwards, I headed to my guesthouse for the night, Mitaki Sanso, the only guesthouse available. It was peaceful, but the food was average.

Tips For Hiking the Kumano Kodo

  • Book your accommodation 4-6 months in advance. Guesthouses fill up fast
  • Campgrounds are on a first-come, first-served basis
  • Wild camping is illegal in Japan and goes against local customs
  • Pack rain gear every day. This is the wettest part of Japan
  • This trail isn’t for first-time hikers
  • Don’t just look at the distance; Elevation makes the days longer than expected
  • Bring proper hiking gear (hiking poles recommended)
  • Get a Japanese SIM card or satellite communication device for safety
  • Bears are rare but possible, if you see one back away slowly without turning your back. If it’s close, raise your arms to appear bigger and speak firmly. Bear spray is a good back up
  • Learn a few Japanese phrases; the locals really appreciate it
  • Use the luggage forwarding service to lighten your load or leave your big bag in Osaka and hike with just the essentials (guesthouses provide toiletries so you can pack light)
  • If you care about getting a clear pilgrim passport stamp, bring your own red ink pad (many pads run dry)
  • In Japan, the custom is to be quiet and respectful in public. Avoid loud talking or playing music on the trail – it’s a pilgrimage, and locals walk these trails to pray
  • ‘Gambatte’ is the Kumano Kodo version of ‘Buen Camino’, you can say it to fellow pilgrims along the way. It means, ‘Do your best’ and ‘You’ve got this’

So my final words to you, from one pilgrim to another… Gambatte!

FAQs Kumano Kodo

How long does it take to walk the Kumano Kodo?

The Kumano Kodo can be completed in anywhere from 4-6 days, depending on your pace.

How difficult is the Kumano Kodo?

The Kumano Kodo is best for hikers with some hiking experience. Although the distances each day aren’t long, there’s a lot of up and downhill over quite uneven terrain. However, you can stay at guesthouses, allowing you to lighten the load of your pack.

Can you walk Kumano Kodo by yourself?

Yep! You can walk the Kumano Kodo independently, and it can also be walked in tour groups.

What is the best time to walk the Kumano Kodo?

Kumano Kodo is best walked in spring, for the cherry blossoms, or autumn, for the stunning changing colours of the leaves. This also means you’re not hiking at the height of summer’s heat or the low temps of winter.

Can you do Kumano Kodo in two days?

It’s not recommended to walk the Kumano Kodo in two days, as there are many stops along the way worth visiting that there would not be time for on such a short timeframe. Also 70km over two days on uneven and undulating terrain would be quite strenuous.

Find More Hiking Trails in Japan

This piece was brought to you by a real living human who felt the wind in their hair and described their adventure in their own words. This is because we rate authenticity and the sharing of great experiences in the natural world – it’s all part of our ethos here at We Are Explorers. You can read more about it in our Editorial Standards.