Jack and the gang spent ten days testing the legs across some of the Northern Territory’s most spectacular walking tracks.

 

We Are Explorers acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of the Countries on which these adventures take place who have occupied and cared for these lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

During our travels, we passed through the lands of the Arrernte, Pitjantjatjara, and Luritja peoples. I pay my respects to those past and present, offering my deepest thanks for the time we spent on their lands. We are so grateful.

 

My favourite childhood memories are ones of bushwalking with my family. Over the years, we lost that a bit, until my folks met my partner Carrie and me in Australia’s Red Centre for ten days of hiking. Reconnecting with family in the heart of our stunning land was a true privilege, and seeing my parents push themselves, embracing physical and mental triumphs, was a highlight of our year on the road.

Mparntwe/Alice Springs has been home to the Arrernte people for thousands of years. The town is centred in the Tjoritja/MacDonnell Ranges, with its sheer cliffs and breathtaking ridges pulling you into their deep colours and ever-changing shadows.

Acknowledging the history and significance of where you are is the first step to getting the most out of your visit, and being respectful

Read more: Why the East MacDonnell Ranges are The Red Centre’s Best Kept Secret

Carrie and I’s journey started months before, but in the back of our minds, we’d flagged this part of the trip as potentially unpredictable, possibly confronting. It’s hard to write about Mparntwe as an outsider, especially as a white city slicker, while doing justice to its complexity.

We were asked to listen, learn, and absorb all we experienced during our time in what became one of the most special places we’ve visited. A place of deep trauma, but also of flourishing creativity and community. A place you can’t truly comprehend without resting in the shadows of the crooked Ghost gums that line the streets.

Plenty more of this to come

Make sure your I-Spy skills are on point – you’ll need them

Mparntwe

We arrived at the airport early, anticipation building in the cold arrivals air-con. After big hugs, Mum and Dad jumped in their rent-a-van, meeting us for lunch at The Goods Coffee Shop, one of the many quality cafes to choose from. We wandered to Red Kangaroo Books and hid from the baking sun, enjoying the treasure trove of locally published paperbacks.

Working our way through the plethora of art galleries and cultural hubs, we found time escaping us, the small town delivering on some very big experiences. From Yuba Napa to the Desert Park, it’s worth allowing plenty of time to explore everything Mparntwe can offer.

 

Highly recommend sticking around for a cultural talk at the Desert Park

Heading South-West

Vans packed, the road waiting, we began ticking down the kilometres. First stop Yulara, a 450km drive into Pitjantjatjara Country to reach the tourism base for Uluru. Pulling in mid-arvo, sand whipping around us, Carrie and I set up camp and waited for our travel buddies.

With a late Field of Lights booking, but no sign of Mum and Dad, our little jokes about them getting lost became increasingly less funny. Despite them being old hands at distance travelling, they were a long way from the tight roads of Sydney’s Inner West.

Read more: 6 Reasons to Make Your Visit to Uluṟu a Road Trip

While waiting for the people you care about, the last thing you want is a call from an unknown number. Dinner was cold, and anxiety had well and truly made its place at the table.

‘Hey mate, your folks have a flat tyre’, said a voice on the other end of the line.

Absolute relief washed over me.

An hour later, they rolled in. Starving, sweaty, but smiling. A reminder of why travelling with your parents is such an education in rolling with the punches. A water bottle shower for Dad and a sprint to get to the bus on time.

Trust me, you don’t want to miss this! | Shot by Caroline Kingsford

When we returned to camp, we crashed into our chairs for a near-midnight dinner, already laughing about our pre-dawn alarms for the next day.

As first light broke through the Walpa Gorge at Kata Tjuta we simply stood and stared.

 

It’s a ‘pinch me’ kind of moment

 

It’s a place of grand serenity. We took our time, knowing the high winds and 40+ temperatures would limit us to card games and naps, careful to save our energy for the first glimpse of Uluru that afternoon.

Read more: Is Valley of The Winds at Kata Tjuṯa More Impressive Than Uluru?

Two naps and a dust storm later, we were back on the road, craning our necks for a better glimpse of the iconic wonder of Uluru. The wind was dropping and the plan was to settle in for sunset and watch a show only some are fortunate enough to witness. As the sun fell, the supermoon rose. What a day to be there, witnessing a truly once-in-a-lifetime spectacle.

Uluru supermoon

Another day, another early start. Bleary-eyed and looking out for roadside roos, we made it to the western side of Uluru to watch the sun creep up the wall. Our sense of adventure grew as we gathered our walking gear for the Base Walk, exhilarated to stand under the rock, overwhelmed by its magnitude.

My parents are a testament to just getting out and having a go. With newly bought walking packs with bladder storage, borrowed walking poles, and a childlike enthusiasm, they were laced up seconds after hitting the car park.

While the walk is mostly flat, the heat proves a challenge no matter how fit you are

As the heat grew and the kilometres added up, small refuge stops in the shaded nooks around the monolith became more essential. Finishing the loop was a humbling feeling, and with my parents passing their first real walking test with flying colours, we put into action a plan to properly wear them out.

Please note! It’s important to note the deep spiritual significance that Uluru and its surrounds hold to the Aṉangu People. While in the area be mindful that certain locations shouldn’t be photographed. There are clear signs helping visitors respect these wishes.

The walk is exposed

Don’t forget sun protection and layers to shed as the temp rises

Watarrka National Park

Watarrka National Park was our next stop, home to Kings Canyon and some very bold dingoes. The campground pool was the perfect place to rest our legs and plan for the Rim Walk early the next morning.  

Read more: Camping at Discovery Parks – Kings Canyon, Petermann NT

 

Remember to leave no trace and give animals space to remain wild

 

Leading up to the trip, I worried about how Mum and Dad might go pushing their bodies in such a harsh climate. By the time we hit the halfway point of the huge sandstone staircase, my mind was at ease. They were charging, taking each step with gusto, drinking in the incredible views earned with sweat and determination. My childhood memories of climbing rocky headlands came flooding back, the warmth of being with family in nature returning after so many years away.

Leaving here without taking hundreds of photos is basically impossible

I mean, look at it!

The Rim Walk is spectacular – a winding route working its way around a natural crack in the deep red earth. At roughly the halfway mark, the Garden of Eden offers a peaceful and cooling sanctuary before you make your way back to the start of the loop. There’s no swimming allowed, but the cathedral-like walls and tranquil stillness are worth allowing an extra hour to fully immerse yourself in this sacred space.

Read more: Kings Canyon Rim Walk is Spectacular, Especially at Sunset

Please note! Due to extreme weather, there are both time and temperature cut-offs to start most walks in NT national parks.

Watching your feet is key for safety so don’t forget to take regular breaks to enjoy the view

Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Creek Big Hole

Our journey hiking in Australia’s Red Centre continued with six hours in the car (on a 2WD-friendly route), arriving at Ormiston Gorge Campground ready for a dip in the picturesque waters at the foot of the rocky overhang. Here we sat, sharing stories of the road and watching the famously shy Black-footed rock wallabies dance across the sheer rock face.

Ormiston Gorge Campground is an absolute gem of a spot. Hot showers, cool dips, and the perfect starting point for the Pound Walk. The view from the highest point stays with you forever, a rich and varied tapestry of golds and greens, so grand I almost expected to see a trio of Hobbits clambering over the ridge in the distance. 

The LOTR theme song is playing in my head right now

Oh, how grand!

The last few kilometres along the pebble-lined creek bed are a real test on the ankles, and the big days were catching up with Mum and Dad. Our pace was slowing and the day was rapidly getting hotter. Chipping away at the metres, the calls of local kids playing in the swimming hole reverberated around us. We were close, nearly able to soak our battered feet in the cool water. 

Read more: Ormiston Pound Walk – A Stunning Introduction to Hiking in The Red Centre

Our convoy was not done for the day, though, and with cozzies still wet, we set off to Ellery Creek. Naps and swims filled our afternoon, DIY rice paper rolls on the water’s edge, and a brisk night swim to finish the day. We slept like logs, letting the shooting stars play above us while our legs recovered.

Factoring in time for a dip is a bloody good idea!

Friendships and Tired Legs

Our last night hiking in Australia’s Red Centre was spent at Standley Chasm, sharing burgers and stories of back home. We said goodnight with big hugs, embracing the inevitable sadness that comes at the end of such an adventure. 

 

Many good memories made

 

As the plane lifted, beginning Mum and Dad’s 2000km journey to Sydney, we stood and watched. Travelling with your parents isn’t without its challenges, especially as an adult. But building friendships is truly rewarding. They left with a restored passion for the trail. The tiredness in their legs would fade, but hopefully not their enthusiasm for a good, hard slog through the bush. 

Our little gang well and truly broke the mould that all holidays have to be done with a book by the pool, and I bloody loved it.

Hopefully it’s the first of many more to come! | Shot by Caroline Kingsford

FAQs Hiking In Australia’s Red Centre

Can you road trip the Red Centre in a 2WD vehicle?

Absolutely! While some tracks are 4WD-only, most major routes (like to Uluru and Kings Canyon) are 2WD-friendly and well signed.

Is hiking in Australia’s Red Centre suitable for older travellers?

Yep! With early starts, plenty of water, and shaded rest stops, newbies can easily go hiking in Australia’s Red Centre, especially on trails like the Uluru Base Walk and Walpa Gorge. Make sure to check difficulty levels of other walks before heading out. 

What cultural etiquette should travellers follow when hiking Australia’s Red Centre?

Respect is key when hiking in Australia’s Red Centre. Don’t photograph sacred sites where signs ask you not to, and take the time to learn about the Traditional Owners — start at the Cultural Centre near Uluru.

Is it safe to swim in Red Centre waterholes like Ellery Creek?

Yep, many are safe and stunning for a dip – just always check local signage and keep your eyes peeled for slippery rocks and strong sun.

Read more: Waterfall & Swimming Hole Safety

More Adventures in Australia’s Red Centre

This piece was brought to you by a real living human who felt the wind in their hair and described their adventure in their own words. This is because we rate authenticity and the sharing of great experiences in the natural world – it’s all part of our ethos here at We Are Explorers. You can read more about it in our Editorial Standards.