Hannels Spur Trail – Climbing the Steep Western Face of Mt Kosciuszko in NSW

Quick Overview

Hannels Spur trail is a 22km one way, Grade 5 hike located in the Kosciuszko National Park in New South Wales. This is an overnight hike but can be completed in 10 hours.

It’s no coincidence that the NSW ski resorts of Thredbo and Perisher are located on the eastern side of the main range in Kosciuszko National Park. On this side of the mountain there’s more protection from the harsh westerly winds, the snow is shielded from the warmer afternoon sun, and importantly, the access from the valley to the top of the mountains is slightly easier.

So, what’s this mean for the western side of Australia’s highest mountain? What’s over there?

When Polish explorer Sir Pawel Edmund Strzelecki was searching Australia’s Snowy Mountains for the highest peak, his Indigenous guides Charlie Tarra and Jackey Tarra led him up a path the Ngarigo people had been treading for thousands of years, up the western side of the mountain on Hannels Spur.

Beginning in the beautiful Geehi Valley, Hannels Spur is a beast of a climb, winding up and up to the very top of what Strzelecki eventually proclaimed Mt Kosciuszko. It’s such a climb, at just over 1,800 metres from bottom to top, that it can claim the biggest possible ascent in Australia.

Hannels Spur trackhead – it’s all up from here!

After discovering this I was compelled to take on the challenge. I rallied a few keen hiking mates and we made plans to do the trek. But instead of waiting for the snow to melt, we strapped some snowshoes on our packs in preparation for a snowy summit.

Quick Facts Hannels Spur

Distance: 15.5km from Geehi Flats to the top of Mt Kosciuszko, and a further 6.4km to the Eagle’s Nest Café chairlift at Thredbo
Duration: Recommended over two days, but possible in one day
Elevation gain: 1,800m
Closest town: Jindabyne

Skill Level

Advanced 

Hannels Spur is steep and requires a good level of fitness. The track can be unclear at times, so navigational skills are required. Weather in the Australian Alps can be unpredictable, particularly if climbing in winter. Hikers tackling this route should ensure they have appropriate equipment for all types of weather. 

Read more: PLBs and Satellite Messengers – Everything You Need to Know About Off-Grid Safety

How To Get There

Start at Geehi Campground and head to Doctor Forbes Hut near to the trackhead. Hannels Spur to Mt Kosciuszko summit, then down to the Thredbo Village via the chairlift or the Merritts Nature Track. A car shuttle is required for this route.

Pre-Hike Admin for a Monster Climb

Hannels Spur can be a logistical effort and, unless you’re ok with backtracking, it’s going to require a car shuttle or maybe hitching a ride. After stocking up in Jindabyne on dehydrated pasta and chocolate bars we dropped a car in the overnight car park at Thredbo and continued around the mountain to the Geehi campsite.

Standing in the valley at Geehi you get one of the best views of the Aussie mountains that you’ll see from anywhere, with the imposing western fall standing tall above you – daring you to climb it.

From this angle, the Great Dividing Range certainly lives up to its name!

After a quick breakfast we slung our packs and a strong sense of adventure hit us. The kind that only comes when your bag hits your back at the start of a big overnight hike.

Shortly after setting off we faced our first hurdle; a barefoot crossing of the fast-flowing and icy Geehi River. A river crossing to begin the hike is unavoidable, but you have two to choose from and the Geehi River crossing is a bit more manageable than the faster and deeper Swampy Plains.

Crossing the icy Geehi River

After negotiating the river without incident and stopping a quick look at Doctor Forbes Hut we reached the official track head. A humble sign told us Mt Kosciuszko was 15.5km away with a vertical ascent of 1,800 metres – let’s get stuck in!

What it’s Like to Hike Hannels Spur Track

The track leads into the wilderness and immediately heads upwards, and it is relentless! The bush is thick and in some sections the trail is only faintly visible under the leaf litter, fallen branches, and new tree shoots.

The Hannels Spur was almost lost entirely after regrowth from the 2003 bushfires began to cover the footpad, but thankfully some groups of volunteers have done a great job of clearing it from top to bottom.

Despite this, some track finding is still required so only confident hikers with some navigation skills and safety equipment should attempt this walk.

Read more: Here’s Proof That Registering Your Adventure Could Save Your Life

Even after clearing the bush remains dense

Moiras Flat to Byatts Camp and Up, Always Up!

Aiming for our first milestone at Moiras Flat, we powered up the hill for what seemed like much longer than the signposted 6.5km.

Eventually the track flattens a little and the foilage starts to change before opening into a great little bush campsite with a small running creek nearby. Moiras Flat would make a perfect overnighter if you’d rather break up the hike, but we wanted to get a bit higher for our campsite. After a quick lunch we kept heading up.

Quick rest at Moiras Flat

The bush continued to change with every step and the trees began to thin out before we emerged from the tree line at Byatts Camp and got a chance to take in the view. There’s a strong sense of satisfaction as you trace the spur all the way back down to the starting point at Geehi Flats.

With the light beginning to fade and the snow becoming thicker underfoot we strapped on our snowshoes and skirted around Abbotts Peak and down into the valley, looking for a campsite alongside Wilkinsons Creek.

Snow Camping at Wilkinsons Creek

Camping in the snow isn’t for everyone but it always makes for a memorable night. After picking a spot with some protection from the wind we dug a platform for the tent and layered up before the temperature dropped. 

Read more: We Slept in an Ice Cave on Our Splitboarding Trip in The Snowy Mountains

Dug in on icy snow

Rain was forecast for Sunday and sure enough, instead of the amazing sunrise I’d envisaged out of the door of my tent I woke to thick fog and sleeting rain. After trying to wait out the rain for an hour we bit the bullet, packed up our soggy tents and carefully took a bearing on the compass.

The visibility was down to about ten metres so navigating by compass was our best option (aside from using GPS) and a very important skill to have in conditions like this.

To The Summit

The quickest and most direct route to the summit was up the steep western face. While ‘Kozi’ is often described as a fairly gentle and easily accessible mountain, your perspective quickly changes when you’re climbing it in snowshoes during a blizzard!

Navigation skills are especially important in alpine environments where views like this are common.

Eventually the terrain flattened and the rock stack that marks the summit of Mt Kosciuszko came into view. My spirits lifted and for a moment I forgot that I was soaked through, freezing cold, and the possibility of a helicopter rescue no longer interrupted my thoughts.

I’ve never been mountaineering or climbed a summit worth boasting about, but right at this moment, I could relate to the stories I’d heard when people reach the top of Everest and get a quick photo before immediately turning around to head back down.

We touched the trig to mark the summit, looked at each other and almost simultaneously said, ‘let’s get the hell out of here!’

Read more: Mount Kosciuszko Hike – Guide to the Walking Tracks to the Summit

Rawson Pass, Thredbo, and the Eagle’s Nest Café

Resetting the compass bearing, we made our way down to Rawson Pass and eventually onto the well-trodden path that would lead us down towards Thredbo. By this stage I had pools of icy water forming in my boots and my gloves were soaking wet, so we wasted no time and power walked the last few kilometres to Australia’s highest restaurant, the Eagles Nest Café.

Hot chocolates and scones were in order before we stepped back into the blizzard for the chairlift down to Thredbo village where the car was waiting.

These days most people summit Kosciuszko by walking up the iron highway, a man-made footpath on the eastern side of the mountain. But if you’re looking for a challenge then follow in the footsteps of Strzelecki and his Indigenous guides up the western side of the mountain on Hannel’s Spur. It’s a tough but very rewarding walk at any time of year, provided you’re well prepared.

Join the 1,800 club on Australia’s biggest vertical ascent!

Safety Tips for Hannels Spur Track

The below tips have been provided by Tasmania Police in response to receiving calls for help from multiple hikers on tough Tassie Trails. While Hannels Spur Track is in NSW, these safety tips apply to all hikes – not just those known to be tough.

Follow these tips to stay safe out there.

• Be prepared: Ensure you have appropriate equipment, including a map, torch, suitable clothing and footwear for all conditions, a waterproof jacket, adequate food, water, and a first aid kit, and carry it with you at all times
• Research your trip: Check the intended trip’s difficulty level and whether it aligns with your fitness and skill level. Always have a route plan, map, and check the expected weather forecast
• Inform others: Let someone know about your planned route and expected return time before embarking on your journey
• Carry communication devices: Always carry a fully charged mobile phone and a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB). Consider a portable charger to extend your phone’s battery life
• Be mindful of lack of phone reception: While mobile phones can be helpful, they should not be relied upon as the sole means of communication and navigation during a bushwalking trip as reception is often lacking in remote areas

FAQ’s Hannels Spur Track

What’s the highest point in Australia?

The summit of Mt Kosciuszko is the highest point in Australia at 2,228m above sea level.

Is the Hannels Spur Track suitable for beginners?

No. This is an advanced track. Even experienced hikers may find this difficult and weather conditions can change rapidly. Always register your trip, take a mate with you, and make contingency plans to turn around if it’s the safer option.

Why is Hannels Spur significant in the history of Mt Kosciuszko?

The first European to reach the summit of Mt Kosciuszko, Polish Pawel Strzelecki in 1840, reached the top via the Hannels Spur Track.

What are the tallest mountains in Australia?

The top three tallest mountains in Australia are: Mount Kosciuszko (2,228m), Mount Townsend (2,209m), and Mount Twynam (2,195m).

What are the tallest mountains in the world?

Oh, my friend that is a long list. All your favourites are there but we could be here all day! Everest, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua…Why don’t you start with this article about a guy who’s summited the top seven tallest peaks in the world.

Want to read about more mountain summits in Australia?

• Summiting Mt Twynam – Australia’s Third Highest Mountain
• Is the Cradle Mountain Summit Hike Tassie’s Most Adventurous One-Day Challenge?
• This Guy is Summiting the Highest Point in All 16 of Australia’s States & Territories
• Hiking the 10 Highest Peaks in Australia
• Mt Cobbler Summit Makes For a Stunning Sunrise And Overnight Hike