GRR2: Hike Réunion Island Top to Bottom on the Grande Randonnée R2

An ten day hike from top to toe of Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean saw Explorer Karolina summit mountains, scramble up volcanos, and soak in sunrises for 145km on the Grande Randonnée R2.

Quick Overview

The Grande Randonnée R2 AKA the GRR2 is a 145km point-to-point trail located on Réunion Island, a French overseas department in the Indian Ocean (check out the history section to find out what that means!). The trail can be walked in either direction over 8-12 days.

There are multiple optional side trips – these are very much recommended and are included in this itinerary. If you complete them all, expect to hike around 170km in total.

GRR2 Quick Facts

Distance: 145km/170km including side trips
Duration: 8–12 days
Elevation gain: 10,000m
Nearest town: Saint Denis in the north, Basse Vallée in the South, Cilaos in the middle
Navigation: GPX file

About GRR2

The GRR2 is part of the French Hiking Federation’s Grande Randonnées – a series of long-distance hiking trails spanning all of France and some of Europe. The second R stands for Réunion, our island location. But don’t be fooled, this is no ordinary island paradise, and no ordinary long distance hike. 

You’ll be treated to lush forests, breathtaking views, and fresh croissants as you traverse (with varying degrees of pain) the steep volcanic contours of the island’s interior. 10,000m elevation is no joke. 

The best time to hike is during the cooler months between May and October. Avoid July and August – the island is filled with tourists from Europe.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Réunion Island/GRR2 History

Réunion Island is a small 2,512 km² parcel of land located in the Indian Ocean between Mauritius and Madagascar. Originally uninhabited, Arab traders, Portuguese navigators and Malay sailors all charted or visited the island before the French state officially took possession in 1649.

The next 200 years were that of a plantation colony; slaves were imported from Eastern Africa and Madagascar to farm sugar cane, coffee and tobacco. After the abolition of slavery in 1848, indentured workers from India, China and the Asia Pacific were also brought to the island.

Today, the diversity of the Réunion is people is a point of pride for many and reverberates through the island’s cuisine, spirituality, language, and music.

The island is a haven for outdoor sports enthusiasts. Surfing, canyoning, and of course, hiking, are all extremely popular. There are over 900km of hiking trails here. 40% of Réunion is classed as a national park and listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Run out of things to do, you will not!

How to Get to the GRR2

Via Plane

Air Mauritius operates a connection to Réunion via a Perth-Mauritius flight. Given the island’s far-flung location, buying your tickets as early as possible for the best price is a good idea.

Then Bus

The best way to get to the start point of this hike is via bus.

From Saint Dénis, you can take a bus to the southern terminus, where our journey begins. Tickets are available at the gare routière (bus station) or on the bus itself (2€ ($3.50 AUD) at time of publishing). Catch the O1 or the O2 to Saint Pierre, then the S1 to Case Basse Vallée. The trail begins 60m east of the bus stop.

This journey can take up to 3 hours, so it’s best to be at the gare (station) before 6am and catch one of the first services. Confirm timetables before you leave.

Where to Stay Along the GRR2

It’s possible to complete the entire trail by staying in gîtes (that means accommodation!). All bookings must be made beforehand. Expect to pay 17-20€ ($30-35 AUD) a night, and 20-30€ ($35-52 AUD) more for a dinner/breaky deal. Book well in advance if hiking during peak season.

It is however, more adventurous (and budget-friendly) to bivouac along the trail. This itinerary is based on 2x gîte nights and the rest in a tent. Many gîtes also permit bivouacking on their grounds for free, and for a few extra euros, a shower.

Note: Camping in France means setting up and staying multiple nights. To bivouac means setting up at sundown, packing up the next day and leaving no trace. Camping is only permitted in specific places and is paid. You can bivouac anywhere, and it’s free.

Skill Level

Advanced

This itinerary sits on the advanced end of the scale, and fits everything there is to see into ten days. The days are long but manageable, with a few water carries. However, this is a very flexible trail logistically and can be planned to fit many itineraries and skill levels.

Despite the mindboggling amount of elevation for such a small island, the risks of very remote hiking are somewhat reduced. You pass through settlements where there’s a limited supply of groceries/snacks available. Water is available at regular intervals. The trail is also very well-marked and easy to follow.

Be mindful that there’s no vehicle access within the Cirque de Mafate (Day 5 -8), so any rescue will be by helicopter – don’t skimp on travel insurance here.

Read more: How To Poo in The Bush

Essential Gear for the GRR2

• Hiking poles (your knees will thank you)
• Water filter like the Katadyn BeFree
• 6L water-carrying capacity
• Puffer jacket, beanie, and neck warmer for the summits
• Tent, sleeping bag, liner, and sleeping mat appropriate for sub-zero temperatures
• Hiking first aid kit with an emergency space blanket inside
• PLB
• Hiking stove – Gas can be bought at Decathlon on arrival
• Dehydrated meals – I recommend bringing your core meals from Australia. There are some available at Decathlon, but supply is limited, and they are 30-40% more spenny. Bars, oats, Babybel, lollies etc can all be bought on arrival
• 70-100€ in small cash to spend at little shops along the trail. There are no card facilities within Mafate

Read more: What Actually is a Space Blanket?

What it’s Like to Hike the GRR2

Day 1 – Basse Vallee to Piton Rick

Distance: 10.2km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation: 1900m
Water: Carry enough for 1.5 days

Before beginning your journey in the chirping forest, grab a bite at the Campaillette, just west of the trailhead. You’ll need it, as today you’ll ascend over 1900m.

The climb begins gradually, through fern and moss-filled forest, before angling upwards with a steep staircase of rocks, roots and mud. After a gruelling few hours, you’ll reach a rock escarpment with low-lying shrubs – volcano territory.

Clouds descend onto the mountains by 11am, so don’t be alarmed if you’re hiking through fog. At Piton Rick, there’s a flat spot to pitch your tent near the edge of the crater.

Day 2 – Piton Rick to Gîte du Volcan/Pas de Bellecombe

Distance: 22.7km
Duration: 8 hours
Elevation: 1100m
Water: Available at Gîte du Volcan
Side Trip: Piton de la Fournaise

Have the alarm ready for 5am. Mornings are usually clear of clouds and the sunrise here is visible from the ocean. It’s a pretty spectacular way to start the morning. You’ll climb a bit more before reaching Puys Raymond, a grouping of erupted old cones, which feel like something from a Jurassic Park movie.

I wouldn’t have been too surprised to turn a corner and see a velociraptor.

After a few more kilometres along the Foc-Foc plateau, Piton de Bois Vert and a view like no other awaits you. Rising from an immense caldera, filled with veins of cooled lava is Piton de la Fournaise, a 500,000-year-old volcano.

The trail along the escarpment to Pas de Bellecombe is cruisy, and feels very Mad Max-esque.

Once you arrive at Gîte du Volcan, leave your big bag, fill your water, and descend into the Enclos Fouqué, the caldera of Piton de La Fournaise for the first optional side trip of the trail. When inside, make sure to follow the path markings as there are many crevices and active lava ducts!

Note: It’s possible to bivouac along the escarpment of Pas de Bellecombe, however, there are no reliable water sources. You’ll have to source water at the Gîte.

Day 3 – Gîte du Volcan/Pas de Bellecombe to the foot of Piton Tortue

Distance: 27km
Duration: 9 hours
Elevation: 703m
Water: Fill up at Bourg Murat over lunch

The first hour is through volcanic Mad Max land.

Then a steep yet satisfying climb onto the Plaine des Remparts. The trail follows the cliff edge leading to Nez de Boeuf (2136m).

You’ll pass grassy rolling plains filled with cattle, very reminiscent of the French countryside in Europe. Makes you wonder – are we really on some little island?

Unfortunately, there’s some road hiking here on the way to Bourg Murat. Keep spirits up by thinking of lunch. There are many options in town, I recommend Le Cilaosien for a burger and Chez Grondin for ice cream and pastries afterwards (take some with you).

After a bit more road hiking you hit the National Forest, which with the afternoon fog can feel quite eerie.

There’s a brief section where the trail is sandwiched between two paddocks, before turning left and re-entering the forest. Here is our campsite. You’ll find a tent-sized patch of grass sheltered under some trees. Plonk yourself down and have a pre-dinner croissant.

Day 4 – The foot of Piton Tortue to Piton de Neige

Distance: 13km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation: 1600m
Water: Fill up at creeks along the trail or at the Refuge

Today is summit day. Leave as early as you can to grab a good spot on Piton des Neiges. I was there by 3pm, and there were already a handful of hikers setting up. There’s plenty of space, but if you’re lugging yourself and all your gear up a 3070m peak, you want a good spot.

From camp, you quickly emerge onto another plateau. Mountains zigzag in all directions. Piton des Neiges is easy to see, the pointy peak of the massif rising in the distance. Towards it you’ll head the rest of the afternoon, like the proverbial North Star.

There’s a steady creek bisecting the trail near the Cavernes du Bras Chansons. Fill up here. When I hiked the trail in October 2024, there was a water shortage at Refuge de la Caverne Dufour (the gîte before the final ascent), and water cost a whopping 5€ ($8.80 AUD) a litre. It definitely pays to have your own water filter!

The air gets noticeably lighter during the 500m ascent from the Refuge. Fret not, your efforts will be rewarded with 360° views of the entire island and a sunset that will stay in your top five.

Day 5 – Piton de Neige to Cilaos

Distance: 11km
Duration: 5 hours
Elevation: -2100m
Water: Available along the trail and in Cilaos

There’s no rush today, a 2100m descent lies ahead. Prepare your knees with a yummy breakfast overlooking a mesmerising sunrise.

Take the same path down to the Refuge, and then follow the hairpin-turn trail down and down and down into the valley of Cilaos. Bask in the shade of the Piton.

This is a day of rest and resupply. There’s a supermarket in Cilaos, as well as many bakeries and restaurants. Kaz Métisse is a favourite.

I recommend booking a gîte. While it would be possible to find a spot to camp, it’s always a bit awkward tenting it around day-hikers and other muggles. After sleeping atop the highest peak in the Indian Ocean, you deserve a shower and a warm bed.

Day 6 – Cilaos to Marla

Distance: 11km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation: 1650m
Water: Available at all settlements

The trail continues quite pleasantly down into a valley. You’ll reach a river and some waterfalls, a nice spot for a snack.

Then, the ascent begins. The trail is carved into the side of the mountains. Keep your wits and hiking poles about you, one wrong step will send you tumbling into the valleys below.

Have lunch at the Tisanerie des 3 Salazes, a very quaint coffee shop with running water and a drop dunny that will make you miss home.

From there is another ascent to the Col du Taibit, the razor-like pass between the cirques of Cilaos and Mafate. The only way into (and out of) Mafate is on foot.

Mind the knees during the 500m descent into Marla. Stay or bivouac at Chez Jimmy, a gîte that has gained quite a reputation for its lively atmosphere. The drinks flow and the music thumps here.

Day 7 – Marla to Ilet des Orangers

Distance: 15km
Duration: 8 hours
Elevation: 1330m
Water: Available at all settlements

Today is a big day. The trail goes up, comes down, and goes up again over the precipitous landscape. There are stunning views on the way to the village of la Nouvelle.

Soon begins the most psychologically and maybe even physically demanding part of the trail. In the space of less than half a kilometre, you’ll descend to Rivière des Galets, an altitude loss of more than 500m.

What makes this whole ordeal worse is seeing the trail on the other side of the river, climbing all the way back up. It’s a very Sisyphean experience. Once you make it down, take off your shoes, bask in the water, let it flow through your toes. Anything to distract you from the climb ahead.

Once (eventually) at Roche Plate, refill your water at the school and regain your sanity. The couple of kilometres until la Brèche treat you to a wonderful view over the cirque, however, the last push through the valley to Ilet des Orangers will be another test of mental fortitude (and ankles).

You can bivouac for free near the school, but I recommend camping at Ti Piton for a warm shower and a stunning sunrise view worth the 13€ ($23 AUD).

Day 8 – Ilet des Orangers to Les Deux Bras

Distance: 18km
Duration: 9 hours
Elevation: 1650m
Water: Available at all settlements and Rivière des Galets

Another Sisyphean day (this hike has many of those, I’m afraid). You’ll climb, you’ll descend, and you’ll climb again, navigating the innumerable cliffs and declivities of Mafate. It all feels very alpine. By now, you’ve been hiking for more than a week, so the kilometres should pass with a bit more ease.

In Aurère, pop into Les Délices de Cassie for a fresh pain aux raisins (snail pastry). From Aurère, hug the rocky mountainside as you once again descend to the mighty Rivière des Galets. Admire the scraggy peaks and ridges rising left and right.

There is a spot to bivouac just after the right turn to Ravito de 2 Bras (where you should totally get a drink), but a more private spot is before the last river crossing before the helipad. Enjoy a dip in the river before bed.

Day 9 – Les Deux Bras to La Roche Ecrite

Distance: 18.2
Duration: 8 hours
Elevation: 2300m
Water: Fill up at Gîte de la Roche Ecrite

After a peaceful sleep at 260m altitude, today’s present is one last climb back to 2276m. What was it that Camus said about Sisyphus?* The shady and scraggly path to Dos d’Âne is enjoyable despite the 650m elevation gain.

There’s an hour-ish of road hiking, but once at Roche Verre Bouteille, you’ll see all of Mafate, including last night’s campsite. Surreal.

*He said ‘One must imagine Sisyphus happy’, for those of you playing at home!

The next few kilometres were some of my favourite – undulating through mossy fern forest along a cliff edge.

When I got to Gîte de la Roche Ecrite, it was raining. Not a downpour, but enough to dampen the spirit. No matter. I refilled my water, had a snack, and marched the remaining 4km to the summit.

Day 10 – La Roche Ecrite to Saint-Denis

Distance: 21km
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation: -2180m
Water: Refill at Gîte de la Roche Ecrite before descending.

The sunrise here was special. Salazie and Mafate sprawl under the towering Piton des Neiges, where I was just six days before. Relish this moment, drink two teas instead of one, tighten your hiking poles and calmly start the 2200m descent down to Saint-Denis.

In the forest between the Gîte and Mamode Camp, keep your ears peeled for the tuit-tuit. You may even encounter a group of birdwatchers from overseas too.

From Mamode camp, follow the road, which slowly brings you back to civilisation. There is one section of peaceful forest after Le Brûlé, where in between trees and shrubs, the sprawling urbanity of Saint-Denis comes into view.

Once in town, pop into La Parisienne for a sweet treat or three to celebrate your achievement!

Tips For Hiking the GRR2

• Prepare for elevation: The GRR2 involves a total elevation gain of 10,000m, so be ready for steep climbs, especially on summit days. Hiking poles will be your best friend
• Bring a water filter: Water sources are available regularly, but it’s smart to bring a portable water filter like the Katadyn BeFree to stay hydrated without the hassle of carrying too much water
• Pack for the weather: The weather can vary drastically, so ensure you pack a puffer jacket, beanie, and neck warmer for the summits, and be ready for cool mornings, especially if you’re summiting Piton des Neiges
• Plan rest stops: With a mix of bivouacking and staying at gîtes, it’s crucial to book accommodation well in advance if hiking during peak season, and have a good idea of where to rest after long days of hiking
• Take side trips: The trail offers optional side trips like Piton de la Fournaise, which are highly recommended for stunning views and unique experiences
• Eat local: Enjoy the island’s traditional Creole food in gîtes and towns like Cilaos to enrich your hiking experience with local culture
• Look out for rare birds: Spot one of the rarest birds in the world, the Réunion Tuit-Tuit, in the flourishing forest leading to La Roche Ecrite. There are less than 30 breeding pairs left

FAQs Grande Randonnée GRR2 Hike

How long does it take to hike the GRR2?

The GRR2 takes 8-12 days to complete, depending on your pace and chosen side trips.

Is the GRR2 suitable for beginners?

The GRR2 is an advanced-level trail, requiring good fitness due to its steep climbs and long days of hiking.

What is the best time to hike the GRR2?

The best time to hike is during the cooler months of May to October, avoiding the peak tourist season of July and August.