Say Hello to Australian Sea Lions at Green Head on the Coral Coast, WA

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Yamatji and Noongar People who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Quick Overview of Green Head

Green Head, the traditional home of the Yamatji and Noongar People, is a tiny fishing town 300km north of Perth, surrounded by some of the most beautiful bays in WA. In fact, Dynamite Bay in Green Head once made the list of the top 101 most desirable beaches in Australia in 2017.

About Green Head

If you’re in Green Head, chances are you’re holidaying or fishing. This small town, with reefs of green and blue, rests quietly behind the dunes and has a service station, a general store, a caravan park, and some seaside accommodation options.

People come for a weekend or stay for a week, but always for the serenity! The area is home to the endangered Australian sea lion, sea eagles, and abundant bird and reptile species.

Crystal-clear waters cover colourful reefs (treacherous to the early explorers), and small nature-rich bays surround the coast of Green Head and nearby Leeman.

History of Green Head, Western Australia

A primary food source for the Traditional Owners, the Yamatji and Noongar people, the region between Green Head and Jurien Bay (30km south) has the most significant number of midden deposits in South West Australia. The entire Coral Coast stretching from Cervantes to Exmouth 1,100km away, covers eight separate language groups.

Dutch sailors en route to Indonesia in the 1600s were the first Europeans to find themselves off the coast of Western Australia. The treacherous reefs claimed several Dutch ships and many lives. In 1658, the wreck of the Vergulde Draeck saw many survivors marooned on Fishermans Island, south of Green Head. Unfortunately, no survivors were found following a rescue mission.

Fishermans Island and many other small islands off the coast are home to endangered Australian sea lion colonies.

How to Get to Green Head, Western Australia

Green Head is about 300km and 3.5 hours’ drive north of Perth. You can choose between a leisurely road trip up the Indian Ocean Drive, to enjoy blue ocean views and tiny coastal towns, or the inland trek on the Brand Highway, to experience rolling green coastal scrub all year round and wildflowers during the Noongar season of Kambarang (Oct-Nov).

If driving isn’t an option, jump aboard a TransWA Coach from East Perth Bus Station. The coach stops and drops off at towns along the way.

The next major city from Green Head is Geraldton, 166km further north.

Where to Stay Around Green Head

Camping is popular in and around Green Head. The Green Head Caravan Park is within walking distance from the beach and caters for tents, trailers, and caravans. The well-shaded park also has onsite vans and cabins available to book.

Milligan Island Camping Nodes is a short drive (4.4km) from Green Head, an eco-tourism camping ground with minimal facilities. The site has 36 campsites, long drop toilet facilities, and gas BBQs. The sites are on a first-come-first-served basis, and fees are payable to the rangers when you arrive.

Karda Campground is close to Lesueur National Park. The sites are spacious with basic amenities but no fresh water. I recommend camping at Karda during the cooler months, as it’s 26km from the ocean. This site is ideal for some night sky action!

This was a great centre point for our Green Head adventures

Looking for a relaxed beach stay? Centre Break Beach Stay offers stunning views of Dynamite Bay and a variety of accommodation options, including self-catering apartments and shared rooms. A beer on the balcony while the sun sets is not to be missed.

Leeman is 14km further north of Green Head, with camping available at the Leeman Caravan Park and holiday stays at Leeman Holiday Units for those who don’t wish to camp.

Where to Eat in Green Head

When in Green Head (or anywhere along the Coral Coast), seafood is the go. The Centre Break Beach Stay offers comfortable accommodation options, and the family-run restaurant also serves hearty breakfasts, lunches, and delicious home-cooked dinners.  Seafood features on the menu and the restaurant is fully licensed.

For those who prefer to self-cater at the campground or in apartments at Centre Break, Green Head has a typical small-town general store/petrol station. For other menu options, you can drive 30km to Jurien Bay where there’s more variety.

Jurien Bay Beach Cafe does a good coffee and brekky, with some delicious vegan and vegetarian options. The licenced venue also serves up seafood and local produce offerings.

Jurien Bay Hotel will satisfy a big hunger with pub grub and an extensive beer and wine menu.

Things to Do Around Green Head

• Snorkelling or diving
• Wind surfing – the Coral Coast is known for perfect windsurfing conditions
• Kayaking
• Swimming with sea lions on a tour
• Coastal hiking the Three Bays Walkway
• Lazing on the beach
• Bird watching – sea eagles and various sea birds inhabit this coast
• Visit Lesueur National Park for some wildflower or hiking action
• Stop and check out the Pinnacles at Nambung National Park on your way to or from Green Head
• Fishing

Read more: 8 Ways to Minimise Your Impact While Snorkelling and Diving

Essential Gear for Green Head

• Camping gear – if camping at Milligan Island, you’ll need fresh water and all food supplies
• Diving/snorkelling gear
• Kayak or surf ski
• Walking or hiking shoes
• Long sleeve shirt and pants for sun safety
• Bathers
• Sunscreen and insect repellent (the flies can be over-friendly)
• Camera and binoculars for wildlife spotting
• Fishing gear

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

What It’s Like to Visit Green Head

The Road Trip

The road trip to Green Head on WA’s Coral Coast is spectacular, whichever way you choose to go. We usually stick to the Indian Ocean Drive with a stop for coffee and ocean views. Other times, it’s straight up the Brand Highway, where rolling scrublands and wildflowers make the trip worthwhile.

On this trip, we missed the split where the Tonkin becomes Brand Highway and found a third option! We headed north towards Moora on the Bindoon-Moora Road.

This missed turn meant we got to experience Bindoon Bakehaus. After cake and coffee, we were back on the road. Recent rains made for a pleasant drive to Moora before heading to the coast. Clearly, all roads lead to Green Head!

Coastal Hiking – Three Bays Walkway

The signposted Three Bays Walkway also started 100m from our digs at Centre Break Beach Stay, making it super easy to locate. The paths take you along the coast and across dunes, where you can drop into any of the small beaches and bays for a closer look.

As far as signs go — this is pretty nice

We discovered rock pools and a myriad of small sea creatures to observe. We were informed by the owners of Centre Break that sea eagles are often sighted along the coast, so ever the bird nerd, I spent the walk gazing hopefully skyward. I saw pelicans, gulls, and a sea lion frolicking on the reef.

The distinctly Western Australian colours of green and blue in these parts are so vibrant that people see photos and think you’ve applied filters – it’s just how it is (#nofilter, I swear!).

Our walk took a couple of hours by the time we’d checked out all the bays. Seriously, Three Bays Walk should be renamed, as I lost count of the bays! It wasn’t a strenuous walk, but definitely one of discovery.

Dinner and Sunset

Wanting to stock up on beers and snacks before sunset, we wandered to the local general store for cheese, beer, and crackers. I love a country town general store – they always have the most random selection of things. Toaster, new thongs or set of binoculars, anyone?

We booked dinner at the restaurant for 6:30pm and could already smell that night’s special, Balinese Chicken Curry, wafting through the floorboards from below. We settled onto the balcony, still scanning for sea eagles and had a beer or two while the sun treated us to a stunning display over Dynamite Bay.

Dinner did not disappoint. The Balinese Chicken Curry tasted as good as it smelt! Then it was back to the balcony to see the almost full moon hanging over the ocean. It doesn’t get much better!

Swimming With Sea Lions on the Jurien Bay Oceanic Experience

The next day, we had a Sea Lion Interaction booked with Jurien Bay Oceanic Experience. Jurien Bay is around 30km south of Green Head, and the tours leave from the Jurien Bay Boat Harbour in town.

We arrived at the harbour and boarded the vessel – off to one of the many small islands on the coast. The helpful crew fitted us out with full-length wetsuits, flippers, masks, and snorkels.

We settled in for a 45-minute trip where Chelsea, the onboard marine scientist, filled us in on the area’s sea lions and other marine life. A pod of dolphins joined us for part of the journey, and when we reached the island, we could see the sea lion colony asleep on the beach. Having been informed that they can sleep for up to 19 hours a day, we hoped they’d wake for us.

There are strict rules around interacting with the endangered Australian sea lion, including not approaching the island directly and staying at least 50m away from the shore.

The Australian sea lion is unique to Western Australia and South Australia, with around 12,000 remaining in the wild; 6,500 of which are in Western Australia.

According to WWF Australia, commercial fishing endangers the Australian sea lion, with up to 350 animals recorded as being caught as bycatch each breeding season in South Australia.

Equipped with cameras, the crew got into the water with us for a 45-minute interaction. Being October, the waters were still quite cool, so the wetsuits were very welcome.

Suddenly, we were joined by a curious female sea lion returning from breakfast. She sat on the white sandy sea floor and looked expectantly at us before swimming around gracefully. Then, with a flip of her tail, she was gone. We watched as she joined the others and flopped down on the shore.

A large male was sighted in the water not far offshore – unwilling to approach the colony because the alpha male was present. The males without a colony live in bachelor colonies.

Each breeding colony has one dominant male, and the females are pregnant for most of their lives. A seal’s gestation period lasts 17.6 months, and they can become pregnant within ten days of giving birth! No wonder they sleep 19 hours a day!

We were greeted by another two sea lions returning from the ocean and they treated us to close-ups of whiskered noses. Feeling chilly, we returned to the boat for big mugs of hot chocolate and a warm shower.

Beachside Lunch & Bay Hopping

Back on shore, we stopped in at Jurien Bay Beach Cafe for lunch before heading back to Green Head for some bay hopping. The great thing about Green Head is even when it’s windy, there’s always a sheltered bay!

Bays for days

Despite my best efforts, the sea eagle eluded me the whole time, so a return journey will be on the cards. But we definitely got our wildlife fix with the sea lion interaction – I’d do that again in a heartbeat.

Tips for Visiting Green Head, Western Australia

• If camping at Milligan Island or Karda Campgrounds, take everything with you
• Plan boat outings for the morning as the wind picks up in the afternoon
• Always check before lighting fires – during the summer months, there’s a complete fire ban
• Book ahead for camping in the Green Head Caravan Park, Leehman Caravan Park or Centre Break Beach Stay
• Take photos of wildflowers only
• Dogs aren’t permitted in Lesueur National Park
• Keep an eye out for snakes – the Western brown snake and Dugite are both venomous
• Protect seabirds and wildlife – dispose of your rubbish and fishing line correctly. If you come across injured or entangled wildlife, contact Wildcare Helpline
• There are no major supermarkets between Perth and Geraldton, so shop before you leave or take your chances in the general store

FAQs About Green Head, Western Australia

What is the nearest town to Green Head?

Drive 14km north from Green Head and you’ll find the nearest town, Leeman.

When is the best time of year to visit Green Head?

Green Head can be visited all year round, as each season has its own perk! Summer months are excellent making the most of the ocean, autumn has milder temperatures and fewer crowds, in winter you can spot the whale migration from one of the many bays in Green Head, and spring is wildflower season.

What’s there to do in Green Head when it rains?

If you don’t feel like rustling around in your finest wet weather gear, there aren’t that many indoor attractions to compete with the beauty of the outdoors I’m afraid! You could visit the nautically quirky Blue Ocean Gallery which displays ocean-inspired art and sculptures, or head back to one of the restaurants and cafes mentioned in this article for a feed.