New Zealand’s Heaphy Track stretches a very runnable 78km through towering trees, tussock wetlands, and nīkau palms, finishing alongside the wild waves of the West Coast.

 

The Heaphy Track has long been on my wishlist, but between the trail’s remote location, the expensive huts that need to be booked months in advance, and the fact that both trailheads are a 7-hour drive apart, it always felt too hard to attempt. 

When a friend mentioned she’d be running the track in two days, I begged her to let me join. Did I have any fastpacking experience? Nope. Did running the track make the logistics any easier? Nope! Did it make for one hell of an adventure? Heck yeah!

 

The iconic West Coast

 

Note: At the time of publication there was a landslip on the Heaphy Track near Crayfish Point that makes the trail impassable. There’s a diversion available that should only be attempted within two hours either side of low tide. Check the tide tables and deduct 30 minutes from the time for Westport tides. Check the DOC website for updates before setting out.

Heaphy Track Facts

Distance: 78.4km
Duration: 2-3 days to run, 4-6 days to hike
Elevation gain: ~1,600m
Nearest town: Takaka or Karamea

 

20 minutes feels like a minimum at a spot like this!

About the Heaphy Track

The Heaphy Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks, all of which make for great fastpacking trips! With their well-maintained tracks and fancy huts featuring gas cookers, these hikes are the perfect place to start your first fastpacking adventure. 

The Heaphy Track is the longest Great Walk and usually takes four to six days to walk. The scenery along the way is changing constantly and will have you in awe for the whole duration of your trip. 

History of the Heaphy Track

The Heaphy Track follows the route Golden Bay Māori used to travel to the West Coast, where they gathered pounamu/greenstone which was used to create tools, weapons, and ornaments. Around 1860, Europeans started using the route and it was soon developed into a pack track for gold prospectors. 

Around 1900, the track was falling into disuse and becoming overgrown. It was cleared again for public use in 1970, when the former North-West Nelson Forest Park (now Kahurangi National Park) was established.

How To Get to the Heaphy Track

Both ends of the Heaphy Track are a long way from anywhere. The Golden Bay trailhead is two and a half hours from Nelson and one hour from Takaka. On the western end, it takes an hour and forty-five minutes to drive to Westport. 

You can reach both trailheads with shuttle bus and taxi services from nearby towns. There are local operators offering vehicle relocation services as well as flights to return by air. We used Facebook to organise a car swap with someone doing the trail in the other direction.

 

The Heaphy Track is so runnable that mountain bikes also ride the trail

Where to Stay Along the Heaphy Track

There are six huts and nine campsites along the Heaphy Track. The bigger huts have gas cookers and usually a few pots and pans. 

If you’re doing the trail in two days, it’s best to stay at James Mackay or Saxon Hut. Staying at both Saxon Hut and Heaphy Hut would make for a really nice three-day trip. I’d also avoid Gouland Downs Hut as it doesn’t have gas cookers and isn’t a very inviting hut. 

 

Frequent DOC huts make running the trail with minimal gear possible – this is Saxon Hut

Skill Level

Intermediate

As the Heaphy Track is a Great Walk, the track is in good condition, which makes it great for running. From the 1st of May until the 30th of November, you’re also allowed to bike the trail. 

Don’t forget to fill out a Trip Intention Form before heading out!

Essential Gear for Fastpacking the Heaphy

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

What it’s Like to Fastpack the Heaphy Track

Day 1 – Brown Hut to Saxon Hut

Distance: 29km
Elevation: 1,000m uphill, 400m downhill
Time: 4-6 hours
GPX file

This is it. After months of anticipation, preparation, and an attempt at training, we’re about to run the Heaphy. I’m equally excited and nervous, as I’m not sure whether I’m able to run 78km over two days, or whether I’ve brought enough food.

 

Heaphy Track

Feeling a mix of excitement and nerves at the start of the Heaphy

 

I remind myself of the plan: take it easy on day one, walk the steep hills, and don’t think about the total distance. Instead, just focus on getting to the next hut. And with that in mind, we start off on a 12k run to Aorere Shelter. 

Starting at the eastern end of the trail means we have almost all of the elevation on our first day, and most of it in the first 15km. And so, after running 2k, we slow down and walk. The gradient is gentle and would be easy enough to run, but we know walking is the right call with what still lays ahead.

 

en route to perry saddle hut

Silly shenanigans on our way to Perry Saddle Hut

 

At Aorere Shelter we have a quick snack, fill up our water bottles, and continue on our way. Only 5km to the next hut, too easy. It feels good to be finally running, and the trail is flowy and fun. Before we know it, we arrive at Perry Saddle Hut where we snack on lollies to celebrate being over halfway. 

We thoroughly enjoy the next few kilometres weaving downhill through the forest and out onto Gouland Downs, an eroded plain filled with red tussocks. It’s nice to have a change of scenery, and it feels like we’re flying down the track. We all agree that this is our favourite stretch so far. 

 

Entering Goulands Down was a nice change after a few hours in the forest | @rocketronnie_nz

 

After 7km, we rock up at Gouland Downs Hut. The hut itself is quite old and dark, and there seem to be a million sandflies. We quickly use the toilets, fill up on water, and drag ourselves back on the trail for the final 6km of the day. 

The mossy forest straight after the hut comes as a surprise and distracts us from our aching legs. The downhill gives way to flat running and then the trail is climbing again. When we see a bench, we all plop down for a rest, even though we only have 2.5km left to go. We fuel up on sugar one last time and finish off our run for day one. 

 

Arriving at Saxon Hut – sweet relief!

 

Saxon Hut is one of the smaller huts on the Heaphy Track, and often skipped by people hiking the trail. The next hut, James Mackay Hut, is closer to the middle of the trail, but with this hut fully booked months in advance, we’d settled for Saxon. Arriving there now and only sharing the hut with four others, we were pleased to not be surrounded by dozens of people.

We take turns skinny dipping in the stream to wash off the day’s sweat and grime. Before long we’re tucking into our dehy meals and forging new friendships with our hut mates for the night. 

Day 2 – Saxon Hut to Kohaihai

Distance: 48km
Elevation: 600m uphill, 1,340m downhill
Time: 6-9 hours
GPX file

We all feel rather stiff when we crawl out of bed the next morning. But the sunrise reveals a glorious bluebird day and after breakfast and coffee, we feel ready for another day of running. 

 

Gearing up for another day of running

 

We have 12k to get to James Mackay Hut and are passing through a mix of open flats and forest, with the occasional viewpoint along the way. A ruru/morepork is eyeing us curiously from his perch in a tree just above our heads. The running feels effortless and I’m trying to soak up the experience as much as I can. 

Arriving at the hut gives us a chance to stop, stretch, eat, and drink. We put on sunscreen and use the facilities before tackling the next stretch, another 12k to Lewis Shelter. Even though this section is all downhill, it’s so gradual that it doesn’t really feel like it. 

Lunch time at Lewis Shelter

Crossing the Heaphy River

Lewis Shelter turns out to be the lunch spot for all trampers heading in either direction. We find a spot on the deck and eat our sandwiches, but it’s weird to suddenly be surrounded by so many people, so we don’t linger long. 

The following 8k to Heaphy Hut make it clear we’ve now arrived on the West Coast. The vegetation has changed and we’re running through massive ferns and nīkau palms as we follow the Heaphy River to the coast. 

 

Admiring the towering nīkau palms

 

Heaphy Hut is in a stunning location, next to the river and looking out to the coast. I wish we were staying the night, both to enjoy this beautiful location but also because that would mean we didn’t have to run any further. We’ve been going for 30km and have another 16km to go, so after an extended break we drag ourselves back on the trail.  

 

The crisp West Coast

Luckily, the next stretch is very scenic, which helps us to keep going. Rather than going uphill or downhill, the track now undulates and our legs are struggling with the short, sharp inclines. We alternate walking with running and have several stops to enjoy the views while resting our weary muscles. 

 

Enjoying the view (but actually just having a rest from running)

 

Finally, we make it to Kohaihai Bluff, the last big hill before the trailhead. As we reach the top of the hill, we can see the carpark below us. We run the last kilometer, cross the final swingbridge and finish off an amazing running adventure on the Heaphy Track. 

 

Never been this happy to see the carpark | @rocketronnie_nz

 

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