I Snorkelled the Great Barrier Reef on the Only First Nations-Led Tour

Explorer Benedict didn’t just snorkel the Great Barrier Reef; he explored Sea Country on a unique First Nations-led tour. He came for the coral, but it was the stories shared that left the biggest impression.

We acknowledge that these adventures are located on the traditional Country of the Djabugay, Yirrganydji, Buluwai, Gimuy Walubara Yidinji, Mandingalbay Yidinji, Gunggandji, Dulabed and Malanbara Yidinji, Bundabarra and Wadjanbarra Yidinji, Wanyurr Majay, Mamu and NgadjonJii peoples who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

As I travel Australia, I’m constantly seeking out First Nations-led nature experiences to build my knowledge of this great land from the people who know it best. Perhaps then you can imagine my surprise when I visited Cairns and found out there’s only one First Nations-led tour of the Great Barrier Reef.

I was able to book a spot on the reef snorkelling tour for my sister and me just three days before the tour. It left the Cairns Marlin Marina at 9am amongst a throng of other tourist boats heading out for a day on Sea Country.

What to Expect on the Dreamtime Snorkel

For $225*, the Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel Cruise includes two outer reef snorkel sites, several cultural and scientific presentations, buffet lunch, snacks, and gear hire, including a Lycra stinger suit that makes you feel a little like Cathy Freeman.

*Off-season price current at time of publication.

For an extra $90, the onboard marine biologist will take you to a separate reef during the second dive to experience a bounty of unique coral and their flickering floating tenants. The Guided Snorkel Safari Tour involves a long return trip and is recommended only for strong swimmers. Having spent a lot of money on prawns the night before, I didn’t do this optional add-on.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Learning the Dreamtime Lore

Seated inside at almost full capacity on our cruise towards the reef, marine biologist Jen Quinn delivered a presentation sharing how the reef was created 9,500 years ago, making it among the youngest reefs in the world.

According to local mobs, this timeframe isn’t an estimate, but a fact — their oral histories include accounts of land that once existed but is now submerged beneath the reef.

Photo by Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel

Fascinatingly, this was followed by cultural teacher Jaman sharing the local Dreamtime stories for how the reef was created. Different mobs have different variations on this story, but it always boils down to, man took fish that wasn’t meant for him, and the God/s punished him by turning his land into ocean.

Life on Sea Country became the duty of the first conservationists of the reef, descendants of whom might very well be on your boat.

Read more: Here’s Where You Can Find Aboriginal Cultural Tours in Australia

Under the Sea We Go

An hour on the first site, Norman Reef in Yirrganydji Sea Country, provided me with plenty of time to do a loop of the whole reef.

Before diving in, the sun full in the sky, action camera in hand, I could already see the coral shimmering in pinks and oranges beneath the surface.

Diving in for a closer look, I saw the Parrot fish were equally resplendent as they swish, flecked with gold.

Unfortunately, my camera caught none of it as it died the moment it hit the water. Immediately, I was back on deck trying to fix it, but it was old, and apparently its time was done. I spent my lunch making friends with everyone who had a functional camera so I was able to get photos of my experience.

I was first off the boat (trying to spot the shy animals before they scattered) at our second dive at Thetford Reef in Gunggandji Sea Country.

Obviously, losing my camera was annoying, but floating free amongst the glittering coral – full of tunnels, highways, and cathedrals for those species distinct enough to call these sunken, shimmering islands home – was a sight fit to paint glimmering memories of this heavenly day on Ocean Country. It was more than spectacular enough to make me forget my tech woes.

Read more: Snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef Off of Townsville Blew All My Expectations

Wandering sturgeons and schools of Angel fish sailed past us in our marine kaleidoscope. Some divers on board were disappointed not to spot a ray, turtle, or shark, but I was happy with a cheeky moray eel, both for their adorably curious faces and ability to shred us out of existence.

The depth of the two sites varied between 4-10 metres. Those wanting to freedive will need to bring their own weights or pay extra for the full SCUBA experience.

How authentic is the Dreamtime snorkel?

Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel isn’t First Nations-owned, but First Nations-led, and is owned by Experience Co Limited, which runs many tourist boats out of Cairns.

While obviously this was disappointing, in speaking to the staff, I learned Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel was started with the authority of local elders and First Nations leaders. The logo represents the totems of these four mobs (jellyfish, turtle, Sea hawk, and stingray) who continue to share their knowledge to make this snorkel tour unique and authentic.

Any changes made to the business must first be approved by the elders, who also have final say in the traditions taught on board.

Interestingly, the website shows the deck alive with First Nations dancing and musical instruments, but no such event happened on my cruise.

If you really want to sink your teeth into the culture, I recommend asking one of the onboard cultural guides (the lovely Reggie and Jaman on my trip) if they have time to yarn on the cruise back. Remembering me from earlier, guide Reggie, who has been with Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel since day one, sat with my sister and I on the return trip.

Sharing her family’s oral history, Reggie explained the deeper understanding of the local Dreamtime stories, Sea Country initiations, and landmarks such as the hidden crocodile in the mountains surrounding Cairns.

Read more: Great Barrier Reef Drive – The Road Trip From Cairns That Has It All

Is it worth it?

Unequivocally yes. For the rest of the day, my sister and I were beaming, continuing to share details of our adventure (sans photographs) for weeks afterwards.

As a non-Aboriginal person occupying stolen land and waters, experiencing a bucket list piece of awe-inspiring ocean paradise was made all the richer with the unique understanding of the First Nations science, culture, and customs of this stretch of Sea Country.

Read more: Snorkelling, Science & Sustainability in One Day on the Great Barrier Reef

Essential Gear For the Dreamtime Snorkel Tour

• Water bottle
• Hat
• Sunglasses
• Towel
• A camera that won’t die
• Reef-safe sunscreen
• Dry change of clothes
• Confidence swimming in open water (or willingness to try!)

Read more: Complete Guide To Reef & Ocean Safe Sunscreen

FAQs Snorkelling in the Great Barrier Reef

What is the only First Nations-led snorkelling tour on the Great Barrier Reef?

Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel is the only First Nations-led tour of the Great Barrier Reef, offering cultural insight, reef exploration, and storytelling from Traditional Custodians.

What should I do if I want a deeper cultural experience during the tour?

Chat with the onboard cultural educators like Reggie or Jaman, they often share extra stories and yarns on the return cruise if you ask respectfully.

What gear do I need to bring for a snorkelling tour on the reef?

Bring a water bottle, towel, dry clothes, reef-safe sunscreen, and a reliable camera. Lycra suits and snorkel gear are included in the tour.

What makes this snorkelling tour different from others?

Unlike other tours, this one weaves together reef science with Dreamtime stories and First Nations perspectives on Sea Country, offering a holistic view of reef life, traditions, and culture.

Is Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel First Nations-owned?

No, it’s not First Nations-owned, but it operates with the approval and guidance of local Elders, who oversee the cultural elements of the tour.

Feature photo thanks to Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel