Climbers Australia-wide are making the pilgrimage to Tonsai, Thailand, for the dreamy combo of limestone cliffs above clear ocean waters, topped off with a sandside coconut. Explorer Gabi drops the knowledge on this tropical climbing Mecca with 700+ climbs.

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About Tonsai

Tonsai has been a premier climbing destination for decades, making it an easy, accessible, and reasonably cost-effective trip for Aussie climbers. If you’re psyched on limestone and well-adapted to humid conditions, beachside beers, and mosquitoes, then you’re guaranteed a good time.

They say it’s polished from years of sandy rubber and sea air, but a jug is still a jug (a large hold you can get your hand around), and climbing in a tropical Thai paradise is hard to beat. Old-hands and regulars also say it’s changed, with a big resort taking over much of the beach frontage and pushing the village’s restaurants, shops, and bungalows further into the jungle. In my experience, that just adds to the charm.

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A two-week trip offers plenty of time to become accustomed to the Tonsai lifestyle, although there are enough routes to entertain climbers up to grade 29 for months on end. Climbing aside, there’s also plenty to do on rest days with several picturesque beaches, caves to explore, and just over the headland, the bustling shops, bars, and restaurants of Railay.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

 

History of Tonsai

While Thailand’s glorious beaches have been drawing international visitors since the 50s, Tonsai was discovered by climbers in the late 80s and early 90s when much of the initial bolting began.

While Tonsai has since managed to avoid becoming the full-blown Thailand mega-tourism experience you’ll find in Ao Nang or Railay, it has grown into a Mecca for Explorers, luring climbers, base jumpers, and high liners from all over the world.

Climbing in Tonsai and Railay is almost entirely made up of bolted sport routes, the majority of which had to be re-bolted from their original form after it was discovered that the unique combination of elements in Southern Thailand corroded everything but titanium bolts and anchors. A huge effort by the ThaiTanium Project has ensured that climbing can continue safely in the region, though some old stainless steel bolts remain. Check TheCrag or recent guidebooks for updated information.

 

How to Get to Tonsai

From major airports in Australia, you can fly to either Krabi or Phuket. While there are some direct flights to Phuket, heading to Krabi will typically require a stopover in Bangkok or Singapore.

From Phuket, a ferry or speedboat will get you to Ao Nang in just over an hour. From Krabi airport, it’s 40 minutes by car. There are plenty of tourist buses that go from Krabi Airport to Ao Nang, but a private Grab (Southeast Asia’s Uber) will cost around $15 AUD.

While Tonsai isn’t an island, the only way to get there is by boat. From Ao Nang, head down to the main pier and jump on one of the longtail boats constantly roaring between Ao Nang, Tonsai, Railay, and the surrounding islands. The trip only takes 15 minutes and is usually 200 baht per person (around $10 AUD).

 

Must-do Moderate Climbs in Tonsai

Climb: The Groove Tube
Grade: 6a/18 ★★★
Location: Fire Wall, Tonsai

A spectacular rock formation and a beautiful climb. It’s smooth and straightforward for the grade with plenty of stances, making it a perfect first lead. And yes, you must go up through the tube.

 

 

Climb: Humanality
Grade: 6b+/21 ★★★

I’m sneaking in a multi-pitch here because Humanality is an absolute must-do. It’s five pitches straight up the main Tonsai wall and overlooks the entirety of the beautiful bay. Plus, what’s better than rapping onto the roof of the Freedom Bar for a post-send beer?

 

 

 

Climb: No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
Grade: 6b+/21 ★★★
Location: Wee’s Present Wall, Railay

One of the best of this grade I’ve ever done. Persevere through the awkward, overhung start, and you’re rewarded with perfect vertical moves in a spectacularly exposed location.

 

Climb: Babo Does Thailand
Grade: 6c/22 ★★★
Location: The Keep

There’s no point including the stars here, as practically every climb at The Keep has three. The approach is a mission in and of itself, requiring you to walk over to East Railay at low tide, scramble up a canyon and down a 10m rappel, but this is one of the best crags in the area.

 

Climb: Dozer Days
Grade: 6c/22 ★★★
Location: The Nest

This is one of my favourite climbs in Tonsai. It’s long, varied, and features some of the best knee bars I’ve discovered outside the gym. Keep an eye out for a huge thread to wrap your whole leg around for a no-hands rest.

 

Climb: Straight Outta Tonsai
Grade: 7a/23 ★★★
Location: The Gibbon Roof, Tonsai

Bring your mosquito coils, deet, long clothes, hiking boots, lighter, and a mosquito-repelling Thermacell for this one. The Gibbon Roof is a horizontal 15m cave hidden along the dirt back track between Tonsai and Railay. It’s mosquito city, but this climb is worth copping a light dose of malaria for.

 

Climb: Burnt Offerings
Grade: 7a+/24 ★★★
Location: Fire Wall, Tonsai

A practically horizontal rail through a cave high on the cliff and the perfect photo op for your Tonsai trip.

 

 

Climb: Cafe Andaman
Grade: 7b/25
Location: The Beach, Tonsai

It’s popular, and for good reason. A short, pumpy endeavour, with a couple of long moves thrown in and heel and toe hooks abound.

 

What To Do on a Rest Day in Tonsai

Visit Phra Nang Beach

With its tufa-laden cliffs, white sand, and calm, clear water, Phra Nang Beach is the most beautiful beach in the area. It’s a 25-minute walk from Tonsai through Railay and out the other side and is best visited as early in the morning as possible. By 9am, there’s no more relaxation to be had, as the beach becomes jam-packed with people jostling to get the perfect paradise Instagram pic. Escape back to the calm of Tonsai or stick around and enjoy the show.

Read more: How to Stay Safe at the Beach

 

 

Get a Traditional Thai massage

There are several places for Thai massage in both Tonsai and Railay, which are usually around 300-500 baht ($15-$25 AUD) for one hour. The backstreet parlour in Tonsai offers a unique experience in a dark, dusty shack run by Thai women who’ve been massaging pumped forearm muscles for time immemorial. They aren’t afraid of Tiger Balm or inflicting pain and will assume you have the flexibility of Alex Megos. You’ve been warned.

Explore the Bat Cave

At the end of Phra Nang Beach, you can walk up into the Bat Cave and out through the other side to overlook Railay West. There’s an optional rappel down to avoid taking the long way back around.

Stroll Through the Shops in Railay

Staying in Tonsai feels pretty far removed from the tourist trail, but it can be nice every now and then to join in the hustle and bustle of Railay. Taking the back jungle path that joins both beaches can add a bit more time and adventure to your day.

The Full Tonsai Experience

Coming around the headland to Tonsai Bay feels like entering a new and perfect realm. You leave Ao Nang’s overpriced cafes, bursting racks of string bikinis, and days-old sunburnt backs behind and enter a world of soaring, karst mountains and warm, azure waters.

Beyond the natural beauty, there’s something special about the people who inhabit the bay. It’s a truly international climbing community of friendly Thai locals, yuppie holiday makers, gym crushers, backpackers, adventure extremists, and climbing lifers. As the sun dips towards the horizon each day, they come together at the Freedom Bar, sipping coconuts and Singhas while they cheer for the hopefuls trying Tidal Wave and tilt their heads to see the base jumpers leap from the top of Tonsai Main Wall.

 

 

Within a week or so, you feel yourself becoming one of them, making plans for the day over coffee at Time To Chill, strolling through the village saying hi to the shop owners, swapping beta and belays in the shade of the roof, and soothing your broken body in the Andaman Sea.

While it’s a very well-worn climbing destination, I find myself wanting to go back again and again, feeling like I belong somewhere halfway up a cliff between the hot, sticky jungle and the sand.

Best Places to Stay in Tonsai

While there’s no camping in the bay, resourceful climbers have also been known to utilise the area’s many caves for a free night’s stay.

If you’re not that much of a dirtbag, Tonsai Bay Resort is the best for a shorter holiday, balancing convenience and comfort. A double ensuite room will cost anywhere from $60 to $100 a night (or more), depending on the time of year, which is almost justified by all-day access to air-con. It’s right on the beach, the staff are lovely, and they offer deals that include a decent breakfast spread.

 

 

If you’re on a budget or flying solo, Chill Out Bar and Bungalows offers a range of backpacker-style dorms and private rooms. There’s no air-con and the electricity only runs at night, but it’s a great place to meet climbing partners and is kind on the bank account.

Some people also choose to stay in Railay, which tends to be expensive but offers more of the resort-style accommodation you typically see throughout Thailand, although I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re a fan of mass tourism.

Best Places to Eat in Tonsai

Mama’s Chicken is a crowd favourite, serving delicious fried chicken burgers. If you want a healthier alternative, there’s a great barbecue chicken leg with morning glory and rice.

For pad Thai or pad see ew, head to Legacy on the Fire Wall side of the bay. They also do fresh fruit and protein smoothies, perfect if you need a lunch that’s softer on the stomach.

For something a little more up-market, the restaurant at Tonsai Bay Resort does practically every Thai dish you can think of, plus a weekly seafood barbecue.

If you need a change from Thai, you can get a range of cuisines by making the 20-minute trek to Railay.

As an Aussie, good coffee is hard to come by. Thankfully, Railay has a couple of nice coffee shops, including Café LÉ Inguz, but if you just need a quick fix or don’t mind bitter, black rocket fuel, Time To Chill coffee house in Tonsai always has a percolator on the go and a cast of friendly characters serving up cuppas.

For a casual beer or a fresh coconut, there’s no better place than Freedom Bar.

Essential Gear List for Climbing in Tonsai

  • Water bottle – You can’t drink the tap water in Thailand, but it’s hot and you’re going to need a lot. Many of the shops around Tonsai sell water in bulky 5L bottles, so you can keep one in your room and fill up your own water bottle for the crag, or even better, bring a Lifestraw
  • 60 metre rope – This will be enough for most routes in Tonsai, although there are some longer routes, so either take the extra weight of a 70m rope or double-check the guidebook if in doubt
  • 12 quickdraws – Again, 12 draws will get you up the majority of routes. Climbs are typically well bolted, but some of the multi-pitches can wander. A couple of long slings won’t go astray
  • Helmet
  • First aid kit – Complete with all manner of antidiarrheals for your inevitable bout of Tonsai tummy

 

 

  • Mosquito coils – You can buy these in Tonsai, but I recommend bringing them from home. You’re likely going to be breathing them in all day, every day, and I suspect Thai safety standards are a little more lax than Australia’s
  • Sun hoodie – If you’re planning to do multi-pitches, the sun can be a killer. Think Far North Queensland in terms of both heat and humidity
  • Rope mat – Climbing on the beach means your rope is constantly in the sand, no matter how hard you try. Most climbers also buy a ‘Tonsai mat’, a colourful straw beach mat to serve as a combined rope mat, gear island, and sun lounger

Helpful Tips For Planning Your Tonsai Trip

  • Don’t miss out on climbing in Ao Nang. The North Wall area encompasses five small crags, heaps of unique 3D routes, and hold shapes you never thought you’d see outside the gym

 

 

  • Beware the tides. Climbing on the beach and other sea cliff crags in both Tonsai and Railay can be very tide-dependent. Plan accordingly to avoid dipping your rope, body, or belayer in the Andaman Sea
  • If you’ve been to Tonsai already but can’t shake the need for more limestone in your life, check out Green Climber’s Home in Laos or the lesser-known Huu Lung Valley in Vietnam

FAQs Climbing in Tonsai

When to climb Tonsai?

Tonsai, Thailand is best climbed during the country’s dry season, which is between December and March. Temps and humidity are lower, making for slightly easier climbing, but crowds are greater.

How do I get to Tonsai?

From Australia, it’s best to fly into either Krabi or Phuket, and take a taxi or boat, respectively, to Ao Nang. From Ao Nang, you need to take a boat to Tonsai, as it’s the only way to reach the small beach town.

Can I climb in Tonsai?

Absolutely! The towering limestone cliffs are ideal for climbing in a stunning location. Previous climbing experience is necessary as well as the climbing gear. There’s also the opportunity to have a boat take you out to other islands to do deep water soloing!

Discover More of Thailand While You’re There

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