Entering the Void From the Roof Top of Queensland – The Carnarvon Great Walk

Far out west, where the wildflowers grow, there can be found one of Australia’s most serene and magical oases. A hidden gem of lush watering holes and a bountiful ecosystem nestled amongst the most awe-inspiring Indigenous artwork.

I feel extremely honoured to have walked, explored, and journeyed throughout the lands of Karingbal and Bidjara peoples. Witnessing their artwork which is still so very clearly displayed on caves was an experience of deep reverence and awe. I thank the First Nations peoples of this land for their care of the waters, the lands, and the environment surrounding. I pay my utmost respects to the Traditional Custodians and deepest thanks for being able to explore their lands, with full recognition that sovereignty was never ceded. 

Quick Overview

The Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk is a stunning hiking adventure that takes place in the Carnarvon National Park, Queensland, about an eight-hour drive directly west of Brisbane.

This 87km hike is a loop that can either be trekked from Big Bend Campground (inside the gorge) to Cabbage Tree Campground or ‘backwards,’ which I highly recommend as it means that your hike will finish in the gorge.

Carnarvon Great Walk Facts

Distance: 87km (not including side explorations)
Duration: 5-7 nights (depending how long you wish to stay in the gorge before and after)
Max elevation: 1228m
Min elevation: 410m
Total climbing: 3257m
Total descent: -3258m
Nearest town: Rolleston is the closest town to Carnarvon National Park
Closest capital: Brisbane (722km)
Weather (best time to go): September/October – 12 degrees at night, around 20-25 degrees during the day

About Carnarvon Great Walk

The Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk is one of the most incredible hikes I’ve ever done. What makes it so fascinating is the micro-climate within the gorge that’s abundant with waterways and wildlife, found amongst an environment in Outback Queensland, which is otherwise arid, dusty, and dry.

There are two ways to undertake this walk, the main choice being, to start or end in the gorge? Ending in the gorge makes for a much more enjoyable hike as you won’t need to climb the intensity of Battleship Spur, and by ending in the gorge, you can spend days exploring all the incredible off-shoots of the gorge (without a heavy pack!).

Carnarvon Gorge History

Indigenously, Carnarvon Gorge is one of the most powerful places in Australia. The peoples of the Bidjara, Karingbal, and Kara Kara didn’t actually live here, as they believed it to be too powerful and deeply spiritual, and so it was only visited for trading and ceremonies.

The artwork that’s on the cave walls within the gorge dates back 40,000 years and is some of the most pristine rock art to exist in Australia.

Due to vandalism, the artwork here is kept somewhat of a mystery with no information displayed about it in public places.

The Carnarvon Gorge was ‘discovered’ in colonial times by Thomas Mitchell in 1844, who named it after Henry Herbert, 3rd Earl of Carnarvon.

How to Get to Carnarvon Great Walk

The best way to get to Carnarvon National Park is by car, and there really isn’t another way.

It’s located 720 Km north-west from Brisbane, which will take you about nine hours drive. The turnoff is halfway between Injure and Rolleston.

It’s essential to get a park pass to display when you leave your car in the Visitor Centre car park for the duration of your hike. It’s possible for all cars to access the park.

Please note! There’s no fuel after leaving Rolleston or Injune.

Skill Level for Carnarvon Great Walk

Intermediate – though an advanced level of fitness is required

Probably best to do this if you’ve had previous experience with multi-day hikes (if this isn’t for you, it’s possible to walk into the gorge as a day-walker and still experience all the sights of the gorge).

Be prepared to carry a heavy pack and walk 10-20km each day. Comparing it to a lot of hiking I have done throughout Australia (and the world) I’d say that it’s very possible to do. But with the heat, and how remote it is, I recommend it for a more skilled hiker.

Read more: How to Stay Safe in the Bush: The Ultimate Hiking Safety Guide

Essential Gear for Carnarvon Great Walk

• Hiking tent – I use Nature Hike Cloud Up 2
• Hiking sleeping mat – I recommend Sea to Summit Ether Light
• Sleeping bag – at least down to one degree
• Enough food/ snacks for six nights (there were six of us, so each of us was in charge of dinner for one night)
• Torch
• Phone/camera
• First aid kit
• PLB – the path is quite secluded. In our week there we only saw one other group and there’s no reception
• Container to carry 4L of water, plus whatever you use for water purifying – I recommend a steri-pen
• Thermals – the nights get cold
• Hiking clothes – including a hat and clothes that cover to prevent burning!
• Good hiking boots
• Toilet paper and a good shovel for properly burying what you need to – I prefer burning toilet paper or using water instead because I don’t like to leave ANYTHING behind
• Bag for rubbish and food scraps
• Portable cooker plus lightweight cooking equipment
• Gas bottles
• Lighter (and spare!)
• Raincoat

Read more: Remember to leave no trace!

What It’s Like to Hike Carnarvon Great Walk

I couldn’t have been happier, when along with five other woman we packed our hiking bags, loaded into my car, and drove directly eight hours inland from Brisbane. How dramatically the landscape changed, and with it, the towns and the people. I’m forever fascinated by the variety of ways people live on this land, and especially the harsh climates of the Outback.

A part of Australia that few ever explore in their lifetime. My girlfriends and I were off to hike, over the course of the next week, the Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk.

The full circuit walk is 87km, and usually begins in the stunning oasis of the great gorge itself. We opted to do it ‘backwards’ so we would end our week long hike, inside the gorge. When beginning, we didn’t know the treat we were in for at the end, and was it definitely the best way to complete it.

Day 1: Carnarvon Gorge Visitor Area to Cabbage Tree

Distance: 15.3km
Duration: 5-6 hours

We began our day at the Visitor Centre, where you’re able to leave your car parked for the duration of your hike. This day was the hardest because it was mainly uphill, however it was a gradual incline and also meant we had the hardest part done first.

The trail begins with a steady incline through a spotted gum woodland and some stunning sandstone ‘mini’ gorges along the way. By climbing it this way, the first place we walked to was Boolimba Bluff Lookout.

This amazing lookout allowed us to have an understanding of just how high we were and really made us feel as if we were on the rooftop of Queensland. After we reached the plateau, the climbing was easier, and through some stunning dense forest landscapes, including a deep cool swimming hole, which we bathed in during our lunch break.

The campground on the first night had no facilities, except a fire pit which we were so happy to light.

Day 2: Cabbage Tree to Consuelo

Distance: 13.8km
Duration: 3-4 hours

This day was certainly easier than the first day, as there wasn’t too much ascending. We walked through tall, open forest, carpeted with bracken fern and acacias.

We also walked through grass trees and a casuarina forest.

That night we slept amongst the blue gums and rough-barked apple trees. As we’d climbed up Boolimba Bluff the day before, we were now walking on the ridgeline and on top of the plateau. Again, at this campsite there were no facilities except water pumps.

Day 3: Consuelo Camping to West Branch Walkers Camp

Distance: 17.3km
Duration: 6-7 hours

This day is the longest of the hike and also passes the highest point of the hike (and one of the highest points in Queensland!).

We began the day by walking through a tall open forest which was full mainly of silver top string barks. This section of the trail is known as the Mahogany Forest. As we’d started the walk ‘backwards’ this day was mainly downhill so even though it was long, it was an easy walk.

There were stunning views across the tablelands during this day, and the climate was cooler as this whole area is covered in basalt soil. At the end of the day you cross a suspension bridge over the Maranoa River. Both water and toilets are provided at this campsite.

Day 4: West Branch Walkers Camp to Gadds Walkers Camp

Distance: 15.8km
Duration: 5-6 hours

The day begins by crossing a suspension bridge over the Maranoa River – a river that the trail follows for some time. In places, the river has eroded away, exposing layers of sandstone. There are views of Mount Moffatt throughout the day, and a bit of a climb up the ridgeline, then following Maranoa River for around 6km.

The trail then descends to the campsite for the night – Gadds Walkers Camp.

Day 5: Gadds Walkers Camp to Big Bend Walkers Camp

Distance: 14.8km
Duration: 6-7 hours

This was by far my favourite day, and definitely felt the most mystical, as we descended into the gorge. I felt it was so special to do the hike like this, because we got the reward of the gorge as a massive treat at the end, and got to climb down, into the depths of it instead of a hectic steep uphill walk/rock scramble.

We got to see the incredible views of Battleship Spur this day, as the trail meandered through grassy plateaus. It was amazing to see the views and how high we were, before we descended down.

We walked on the (very steep) ridgeline and then declined around 600m over a 4km distance. We walked through narrow ridges and windy paths, before we got to the Boowinda Gorge, which after slipping and sliding over rocks was a gentle relief to be on a flat, sandy floor. It was deep and dark and so much cooler.

After we walked through the gorge, we came out at some clear and stunning waterways which then led us through to Big Bend. We were all in awe of the surrounds and the oasis we’d found ourselves in.

We set up camp for the next two nights and spent the days exploring all there was to see within the gorge. Big Bend is definitely the most equipped campground, with tables, toilets, and water. There are limited spots at this campground so make sure to book.

Day 6: Big Bend Walkers Camp to Visitors Centre

Distance: 9.7km
Duration: (hard to say!) depends if you’re walking straight out, or visiting all the sights within the gorge on the way out

A very easy day, mostly because our packs were empty of food, and the walk is flat and easy to navigate. Walking is along or over a creek some of the way. Surrounded by ancient cycads, flowering shrubs (it was spring!), and gum trees.

This walk was so beautiful, with towering cliffs, and an abundance of bird life flocking throughout. There was really a certain resonant beauty and serenity to this part of the hike.

Short Walks Within Carnarvon Gorge

If you don’t feel inclined to undertake a massive hike, it’s still possible to walk to Carnarvon Gorge along the main gorge track from the Visitors Centre (9.7km) and stay a few nights here, to explore the gorge.

All the distances for the following sights are the distance and times it takes from the Visitor Centre, not from Big Bend Campground. It’s possible to see them all on your way out, walking back to your car, but we opted to do them as little day adventures as the walking is easy (especially if you’re not carrying everything!)

Moss Garden

Distance: 2.8km
Duration: 2 hours (approx.) there and back

Branching off from the main gorge walk, is the damp, serene, and magical moss garden. Ferny and mossy, it really feels like a place where fairies live. There’s a beautiful small cascading waterfall, and luscious giant fern trees. It feels like a dream oasis, within the gorge – another micro-climate full of abundant plant and animal life.

Amphitheatre

Distance: 3.7km
Duration: 3 hours (approx.) there and back

This was one of my favourite places to visit within the gorge. Probably due to being with one of best friends/ hiking buddies, who after the hike was going to sing Nick Cave at a wedding. She practised within these incredible walls and the sounds proved it’s exactly that, a natural amphitheatre.

Walkers climb down a ladder and walk through a narrow crevice revealing an amazing sandstone chasm, with a natural skylight opening at the top. Again it was like another mini ecosystem with teeming and alive ferns, palms, and a mossy floor.

Wards Canyon

Distance: 5.9km
Duration: 4 hours (approx.) there and back

Again another dazzling micro-climate awaits when you enter this canyon. An abundant stream flows over, smoothing the rocks that are vivid and startling in their colours, juxtaposed with the colour-wheel of greens. Abundant with King ferns (the largest fern), this space really makes you feel like you’ve stepped back into the Gondwana era. Best visited in silence!

Art Gallery

Distance: 5.1km
Duration: Allow a few hours for walking, and a few hours for soaking in the atmosphere of these art spaces

These rock stencils and engravings are the most clear and concise drawings I’ve ever sighted within rock walls in Australia. There’s a deep feeling of spiritual resonance witnessing these artworks and a feeling that you really are experiencing something that holds such a deep power, wisdom, and connection to the land. There are over 2000 works here, including stencils and free hand drawings, all from ochre on the sandstone walls, as well as engravings. The wall is around 60m long and all covered in art.

Cathedral Cave

Distance: 9.1km
Duration: 5 hours (approx.) there and back

Again, an amazing array and collection of Indigenous cave paintings. A true reflection of the First Nations ties to this land, and the connection our First Nation peoples had to this gorge. Some of the artwork goes as far back as 20,000 years, some 200 years. My favourite part of the art in the whole gorge is found here – an incredible engraved wall full of vulvas.

Boowinda Gorge Walk

Distance: 9.2km
Duration: 6 hours (approx.) there and back

The Boowinda Gorge is part of the Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk, whichever way you decide to do it, you’ll walk through this gorge. If you’re not doing the great walk, then it’s possible to visit here as a day walk from the Visitors Centre.

Shaped by water over thousands of years, the walls are exceptionally smooth, and being deep in this gorge makes you feel like you’re in a world within a world. Walking over a sandy floor and at times totally covered in smashed rocks, adds to this unique walk. It’s cool in here, so bring a jumper, if you get the right time of the day, the sun will shine through, making for an even more mystical experience.

Tips for Hiking Carnarvon Great Walk

• Descending into the gorge requires a lot of concentration and rock scrambling/ climbing. The rocks are slippery and very steep so be mindful of these areas. There are other sections throughout the hike that require ropes, ladders, and rock scrambling, but it all felt very possible to do
• The Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk is closed from the start of November to the end of February
• Although tempting, swimming in the gorge itself is prohibited
• All of the campgrounds we stayed at had water pumps that came from bores under the ground. Totally fine to drink, if you have a way of purifying the water. A few of the campgrounds have toilets, but a lot of the time, its bush poos all the way
• To complete this walk you must pre-book all the campsites as well as buy a car pass, to be able to leave your car at the Visitor Centre. All bookings can be made on the Queensland Parks booking website
• Lastly, the gorge is a deeply spiritual place, and has been used for ceremonies and gatherings by our First Nation people for thousands of years. I recommend visiting all the gorge sights in silence, for optimal experience. There’s such a mystical, magical, and deeply spiritual feeling throughout this whole gorge, and one must enter with deep reverence and respect for the land

FAQS Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk

How long is the Carnarvon Great Walk?

The Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk is 87km long, however there are multiple side trips you can take along the way which can add up to an extra 35km if you wish!

How difficult are the walks at Carnarvon Gorge?

Walks in Carnarvon Gorge range from the 1.5km Grade 3 Nature Trail to the 87km multi-day Carnarvon Great Walk. There are plenty of trails of different lengths in between, however there are no Grade 1 or 2 hikes in Carnarvon Gorge, so some prior hiking experience is recommended.

Where to see platypus at Carnarvon Gorge?

The best chance of seeing a platypus in Carnarvon Gorge is along the Rock Pool Trail, a 3.6km return trail that begins at the visitor centre. There’s a platypus viewing area along the way where you may spot the curious creatures in a pool of Carnarvon Creek.

Why can’t you swim at Carnarvon Gorge?

There’s only one place in Carnarvon Gorge where you can go swimming, and it’s at the Rock Pool, along the 3.6km Rock Pool trail. Swimming isn’t allowed anywhere else in the gorge in order to protect the creek’s fragile aquatic ecology. Please don’t wear sunscreen or insect repellent when entering the water at Rock Pool and refrain from jumping or diving in.

How many days do you need at Carnarvon Gorge?

If you’re hiking the Carnarvon Great Walk, you’ll need at least six days to complete this. If you’re walking shorter day hikes instead, around three days are recommended to explore all of the trails and enjoy camping in the gorge.

Do I need a permit to visit Carnarvon Gorge?

While you don’t need a permit to visit Carnarvon Gorge for the day, you do need a permit to camp overnight or to walk the Carnarvon Great Walk and fees apply. You’ll need to book and pay for these ahead of time. A camping tag with your booking number must be displayed at your campsite. Self-registration isn’t available. You can book both camping and the Carnarvon Great Walk through the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service.