Blackdown Tableland National Parks is One of Queensland’s Best Kept Secrets

When Eva and Adam stumbled upon Blackdown Tableland National Park in central Queensland during their Troopy trip around Aus, it was like walking into an oasis.

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Ghungalu people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Quick Overview

Blackdown Tableland National Park is found in Queensland’s Central Highlands and is a bush oasis with freshwater swimming holes, a 4WDing ciruit, lush bush campground on the lands of the Ghungalu people.

About Blackland Tableland National Park

When you think of central Queensland it’s probably not waterfalls and lush forest that comes to mind. But Blackdown Tableland National Park is worlds apart from the grassy farmland that surrounds it. As you make your way up the windy access road, it’s clear this place is special.

From the very first sign at Yaddamen Dhina lookout, visitors are encouraged to ‘look deeper than the views’ and appreciate the significance of the place to the local Ghungalu people. And it’s true. The top of the tableland is not only dotted with panoramic views, but rich Indigenous cultural sites, waterholes to soak in and a spectacular abundance of native Australian wildlife.

It’s the perfect playground to escape, relax and take in the Australian bush. 

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Where to Stay in Blackdown Tableland National Park

Munall Campground is more than just a basecamp. It’s what you imagine when you think ‘bush oasis’. Surrounded by trees, next to a bubbling creek, goannas and kookaburras roam the sites. Even if you just came here to camp and do nothing else you’d have a bloody great time. String up a hammock, bring a good book, and you’re set!

There are about 15 sites which are really spread out so there’s plenty of privacy. We got site 8, which was the perfect spot for our Troopy – nice and flat with a decent fire pit, close to the walking tracks and the little creek.

There’s a drop toilet but no other facilities, so you’ll just have to shower in the waterfall or creek! Make sure you bring your own firewood as it’s a national park and collecting firewood is prohibited. You also have to book this ahead as it fills up in advance especially on weekends. 

Skill Level

Beginner-Intermediate

There is a variety of walks available in the national park that range from wheelchair accessible, to Grade 4. For those keen on 4WDing, the 19km loop road requires some previous experience, but isn’t overly tough.

How to Get to Blackdown Tableland National Park

The turnoff to the park is located 110km east of Emerald or 160km south-west of Rockhampton on the Capricorn Highway. Travel up Charlevue Road for 30km to reach the campground and another 10km to the start of the Gudda Gumoo/Rainbow Falls walking track.

From Brisbane, it’s a 9 hour and 20 minute drive to the national park.

Essential Gear

• Swimmers
• Good walking shoes
• Camera
• Water (no drinking water in the park)
• Tent and sleeping gear
• Camp chairs
• Firewood 
• Marshmallows for the fire
• First aid kit and 4WD recovery gear

Read more: Comparing Different Methods of Treating and Purifying Water on the Trail

What It’s Like Visiting Blackdown Tableland National Park

Wild Swimming at Gudda Gumoo/Rainbow Falls

Get ready for an epic wild swimming experience you won’t forget at Gudda Gumoo/Rainbow Falls. The hike to the water is about 2km downhill with some steep stairs towards the end. At the bottom you’ll find a clear, sandy-bottomed pool with the falls trickling into it. In the right light, you can see a rainbow reflected in the mist.

Read more: Staying Safe Around Swimming Holes and Waterfalls

This swimming hole is permanent, so you can enjoy a dip even when it hasn’t rained recently. Be warned, it’s cold, but it’s so worth it. Besides, you’ll need to cool off before hiking back up to the car park. I’ve heard it can get busy in summer or on weekends but we had it nearly all to ourselves. Take lunch and a good book and perch up on the flat rocks in the sun for the afternoon. 

Once you get back to camp you can cool off once more in the deep creek holes behind camp. When we were there the creek wasn’t really flowing but there was still enough water for a swim in the deep spots. This creek is rain-fed, so if you want it to be flowing for your afternoon dip, it’s best to visit after a bit of wet weather.

Hiking the Mook Mook Walk and Goon Goon Dhina Trail

As you’re already at the top of the tableland, none of the hikes in the park are overly strenuous (with the exception of the hike back up from the bottom of Gudda Gumoo). 

The Mook Mook walk leaves from Munall Campground and is best done at sunrise. It’s only 1.2km to the lookout so you don’t need to get up ridiculously early to catch it. As the morning dawns, the far side of the tableland lights up orange and you can watch the mist slowly disappear from the valley below. It’s a truly stunning way to start the day. 

The Goon Goon Dhina Cultural Trail also starts from the Munall Campground. This 2.5km loop takes you through the tableland and has loads of signs along the way explaining different plants and animals and how the Traditional Owners use them as part of life on the tablelands. At the far end of the loop there’s an overhang with rock art handprints and a place to stop, rest, and contemplate. 

Keep your eyes peeled on all of the trails for goannas roaming in the trees and around the bush. There’s also a huge abundance of wildflowers including one type of wattle that’s endemic to the tableland and only flowers during the winter months, which is a great time to visit. 

4WDing for Beginners

We’ve only just begun to dip our toe into the world of 4WDing so the 19km beginner track that loops the park was perfect for us. It features a few sandy and rocky sections plus a big rocky hill at the end to crawl down.

The track starts just off the main access road halfway between the campground and the Gudda Gumoo car park, and takes you around the edge of the tableland and back near the information point at the park entrance. There’s a little bit of sand, a few rocky sections and small washouts plus one big rocky hill you go down right at the end. You should definitely allow at least 1.5 hours to do the whole track, although we took a bit longer as we stopped at the Mitha Boongulla Lookout to soak in the view with some lunch and a cuppa. 

Tips for Visiting Blackdown Tableland National Park

Make sure you have some knowledge about 4WD techniques or go with a pro if you’ve never done any before. Our main tips for newbies are;

• If in doubt, get out and have a look at the track before driving through a section. Things often look really different from the ground or from different angles
• Slow is fast, fast is broken! Take it easy and go slow through the obstacles
• Make sure you have all the right safety and recovery gear and know how to use it before you go!

Read more: How To 4WD For Beginners

FAQs Blackdown Tableland National Park

Do you need a 4WD to get to Blackdown Tableland National Park?

No you don’t need a 4WD to access most of Blackdown Tableland, however as it says in the name, you do need a 4WD for the 19km 4WD Loop Road.

Is Blackdown Tablelands worth visiting?

Absolutely! With stunning freshwater ways to swim in, scenic views across the tablelands and valleys, and a lush bush campground, it’s definitely worth a trip.

Where to camp in Blackdown Tablelands?

The only campground in the national park is Munall Campground. Tent and camper trailer camping is permitted here, but unfortunately not caravan camping. There are fire pits and toilets available and it’s a wheelchair accessible campground.

Can I take a caravan to Blackdown Tablelands?

Unfortunately, there’s no caravan camping available in Blackdown Tablelands National Park, so caravaners will have to camp elsewhere and visit as a day trip in their car.

Explore More of Central Queensland

• Entering the Void From the Roof Top of Queensland – The Carnarvon Great Walk
• Gemini Mountains: Exploring Central Queensland’s Twin Peaks
• Road Tripping the Central Queensland Highlands
• All the Adventures We Unearthed on a Trip to Queensland Country