The Bundian Way is an Aboriginal route that traverses from Targangal/Mt Kosciuszko to Bilgalera/Twofold Bay in Eden. 274km of ancient pathway that Yuin people had travelled seasonally in the South Coast of NSW. Georgia and her brother tackled the route on bike.

 

We acknowledge that this adventure is located on the traditional Countries of the Yuin, Ngarigo, Jaitmathang, Bidawal people who have occupied and cared for these lands and waters for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Highlights

  • Snowy River swims and dips
  • Nalbaugh Waterfalls
  • Quaint towns Dalgety, Delegate, Bombala, Towamba, Eden
  • Re-growth of nature after the bushfires 
  • Bondi State Forest and Nalbaugh State Forest
  • South East Forest National Park and Kosciusko National Park

The Bundian Way

What better way to reconnect two siblings separated by border closures and make up for lost time than to take on this exploratory journey mixed with rich cultural heritage? An antidote to a year on Zoom.

We had the notes, maps, and short synopsis from surveyor John Blay to reconstruct our own bikepacking trip along the Bundian Way. The route was used for Aboriginal people for trading, ceremonies, family gathering, and caring for country for thousands of years.

 

 

When European settlement arrived, the Yuin people showed settlers the best places for their stations and cattle and the best navigable route through the wild country to the Monaro Plains, essentially Australia’s biggest spur line. 

The land, campsites, and track are part of a songline, freshwater to saltwater, coast to mountains, the ancestors singing and keeping us safe on our journey. 

Read more: What I Learnt on my First Overnight Bikepacking Trip

 

Day 1 – Jindabyne to Dalgety

Distance: 80km
Duration: 8 hours

Our journey began in the high country of Targangal/Mt Kosciuszko, as we attempted to cross the flooding Snowy River, using all means of transport whether it be by foot or swimming with our bikes. Unfortunately, we had to modify our route. 

We headed back into Jindabyne to begin our journey with the purpose to cross the Snowy River via a bridge. With the purchase of a pair of last-minute riding gloves to ease the sideways rain, we took off fully loaded from rubber to head. 

 

 

We spent the time undulating gravel roads, dodging cow patties, passing tin sheds and talking to the sheep that curiously gazed at our bizarre steel horses. We planned to attempt to cross a smaller section of the Snowy River.

A decent 40km ride in, nearly at our crossing, we were told by a passing farmer it was not crossable, he boasted, ‘Definitely not since 1993 when I had to cross chest high on horseback’. If it weren’t for the Tuscany-like scenery of gentle rolling hills and granite-dotted farmhouses distracting us from the uphill pain, we would’ve been more disappointed to turn around.

We journeyed back to the closest town on the map, quaint little Dalgety. We pitched our tarp at the small-town caravan park and devoured scrumptious pub meals, elbowing one another for another celebratory road soda.  

Read more: Remember to leave no trace!

Day 2 – Dalgety to Nalbaugh Falls

Distance: 99km
Duration: 9 hours

The next day’s riding involved views of painted shades of green, rolling ups and downs, sections of hooting and hollering with some long slow burns uphill. We navigated past ruined old churches, dairy farms, freshly shod sheep, and cowardly cows who weren’t phased by passing trucks but spooked at the sight and sound of two bikepackers. At a lonely bus shelter scroggin stop, we watched an echidna dine on its own trail mix. 

 

 

For two cobbers not highly skilled in the art of long-distance bikepacking, we sure gave it a red-hot crack. Plumbing clamps, re-purposed camera bags, dry bags, zip ties, and every strap imaginable, this was ad-hoc bikingpacking at its best.

The journey led us in and out of state forestry, ready for oncoming trucks as we fanged down the undulating highways and off beaten dusty road tracks, with swarms of expert cyclists amping us novice riders on as they overtook us. 

In the afternoon we reviewed the maps, sections of the survey and story to retrace over the next day’s journey. Stopping for a lunch break along the river’s edge, drinking from streams, swimming, and re-fuelling, I think the Yuin people would have enjoyed these simple pleasures. 

We set up camp by Nalbaugh Falls after riding from Bombala.

Read more: How To Poo in The Bush

 

Day 3 – Nalbaugh Falls to Towamba

Distance: 60km
Duration: 6 hours

We spent the better half of this section riding turbo down rocky roads, taking in tree-lined views surrounding Balawan/Mt Imlay and South East Forest National Park. The bush around us had turned to dry schlerophyll dominated by Stringybark gum, which had been recently burnt in the 2019/20 bushfires.

We hooned down the forestry roads, a little nervous of the oncoming logging trucks, our senses kept sharp dodging kangaroos as they hopped powerfully alongside us, a little fearful they’d bounce straight into our bikes.

 

 

We stopped for a lunch break along the river’s edge, taking a much-needed dip and food fuel stop. We took overgrown roads attempting to get some air on the artificial humps, but quickly realised the weight of our gear, so opted for a couple of kindergarten skids instead.

We cycled through winding dusty roads, taking in glimpses of views of the surrounding mountain region, amazed at the environment discreetly changing from dry schlerophyll, to cleared urban land for farming, and the weather warming as we neared the coastline. 

There were not enough sore buttocks or tight, stiff knees to hinder our enthusiastic spirits on our last downhill section into Towamba, a quaint little town for the nearby agriculture community. We couldn’t resist an icy cold dip in the Towamba River to soothe our heavy limbs and rejuvenate our dusty bodies. 

Day 4 – Towamba to Twofold Bay, Eden

Distance: 35km
Duration: 3-4 hours

Remote bush dwellings of hideaway hermits started appearing, farmland, and finally suburbia. As the weather warmed we could feel the sea breeze and smell the salt of Twofold Bay. 

 

 

We glided down our last section into Quarantine Bay, a White-bellied sea eagle showing us the way. From Quarantine Bay through to Rotaract Park there’s an official Bundian Way track fitted with interpretive signs that give hints to the Yuin people’s lives, their experiences of European settlement and the Bundian Dreaming songline.  

We were humbled reading their story and reminisced on our attempt to recreate the trail as we rode with gratitude and a new layer of connection to this country. Our trip ended with a cold dip in the ocean of Twofold Bay and we thanked the ancestors that led us safely along the journey.

We both carried in our rain jackets a snow gum leaf from the start of Targangal and gave this leaf back to the sea, a symbol of the interconnectedness of these vastly different ecological, spiritual, and cultural places.

 

Essential Gear

  • Maps
  • Bikepack gear; saddle bag, bike frame bag, handlebar bag, fork bag, clamps/cage/straps
  • Extra gear; mini hand pump, spare tubes, puncture repair kit, multi tool
  • First aid kit
  • PLB
  • Mountain bike
  • Tarp
  • Sleeping bag
  • Helmet
  • Riding gloves
  • Dry bags
  • Rear bicycle light
  • Luci light
  • Waterproof jacket
  • Water bladder
  • Sleeping mat 
  • Stove & pots

Skill Level

Intermediate 

Some bikepacking experience needed and lightweight packing capabilities.

How To Get There

We completed a car swap by keeping one car in Eden and one in the Snowy Mountains. From Eden, you can follow Imlay Road west until the Monaro Highway, this will turn left onto The Snowy River Way, then left onto the Alpine Way. Around 2.5 hours of driving. 

Parking on the streets or out the front of a caravan park is ideal, just let the owners know your planned date to come pick the car up.

Distance / Elevation Gained / Duration

274km / 915m / 4 days

 

For more information follow John Blay’s Bundian Way Survey Report.

Photos thanks to Georgia and Sam Doherty