Wangapeka Track, New Zealand – Untamed, Uninhabited, and Unbelievable

The Wangapeka Track, less than two hours drive from Nelson, is a formidable challenge across Kahurangi National Park on New Zealand’s South Island. A 59km hike from the gold-laden valleys of Tasman District, through the mountains, and onto the untamed shores of the West Coast.

Quick Overview

Wangapeka Track is a 59km one-way, part-advanced tramping track, part-expert route, located in Kahurangi National Park, between the Tasman District and West Coast Region of New Zealand. The hike takes 4-6 days to complete.

Guaranteed beauty at every corner

Wangapeka Track Facts

Distance: 59km
Duration: 4-6 days
Elevation gain: 2037m
Nearest town: Tapawera/Tasman to the east, Karamea/West Coast to the west

About the Wangapeka Track

The Wangapeka Track is less than two hours’ drive from Nelson and offers a formidable challenge, following crystal clear rivers and crossing two mountain saddles in Kahurangi National Park. It links an inland valley in the Tasman District to the wild and picturesque West Coast.

Follow in the footsteps of tangata whenua – the people of this land – and the intrepid migrants who cut this track for the gold trade.

The clear blue waters of the Wangapeka River

See man-made relics blend with native bush and mountainous scenes, all to the soundtrack of rushing water. There’s even a chance you’ll spot Whio – native blue duck – which are rarer than some kiwi!

This 59km one-way hike takes around four days. The plethora of huts and shelters on the track don’t need booking, so you can take more time and enjoy this unique part of the national park. I tackled it during the summer school holidays and saw just five people.

Wangapeka Track History

After news of a gold find in the Wangapeka Valley spread to the already busy workings of the West Coast, a route between the two mining centres was sought. Jonathan Brough was placed in charge of construction, as unemployed miners worked cutting the track.

In 1898, Brough built a small A-frame hut at a viewpoint above the Taipō-Karamea confluence. According to Department of Conservation (DOC) signage, it survived into the 1960s, where it was often used by deer hunters. Today, a wooden monument stands in its place.

Brough’s Tabernacle sign

Just five minutes after Kings Creek Hut sits miner Cecil King’s original 1935 hut. Although its exterior screams ‘rat infestation’, the interior has been lovingly restored and offers a unique spot to bed down for the night. The price of such luxury? Free.

How to Get to Wangapeka Track

Wangapeka Track is a one-way route, so you’ll have to car shuffle or book transport. If you have time and the weather, there’s an alternative return, via Kākāpō Hut, Trevor Carter Hut, Biggs Tops, Mount Luna, and the southern Wharepapa/Arthur Range.

Some like to combine it with the Heaphy Track, although the eastern trailheads still require transport between them.

By Car

The eastern trailhead is at Rolling River Junction, a few minutes’ walk from Siberia Flat Campsite. Both are located on Wangapeka River Road.

Tapawera, 54km from Nelson, is the nearest township. From there, head west on Tadmor Valley Road for 8.7km and turn right at Tadmor Bushend Road, which wiggles up over a hill and straight down the other side.

Go straight on as the road turns to gravel and stay on it, bearing left at the next two junctions, until the road becomes Wangapeka River Road.

After 7km the road crosses the Dart River via a concrete ford, which can become impassable after heavy rain. Refer to the DOC website for more information and if in doubt, don’t cross.

7km after the ford lies Prices Clearing, with an information kiosk and intentions book. Rolling River Junction car park is 1km after that, on the right hand side.

Where to Stay and Camp on Wangapeka Track

There’s no shortage of huts and shelters on Wangapeka, meaning you can divide up the track and walk it how you like. It’s worth noting the shelters at Stag Flat and Little Wanganui Gorge have just two bunks each.

The rest sleep plenty and it’d take something extraordinary to leave you bedless.

You’ll find four bunk beds in the historic Cecil King’s Hut

That said, a small inflatable mattress in your pack is an easy fix should you find a full hut.

Camping is allowed beside the huts and there are many suitable wild campsites en route. Obviously, leave no trace principles apply.

I carried a tent for my adventure, but didn’t use it. The huts were too conveniently placed and empty. Bookings aren’t required, but you’ll need either a DOC Backcountry Hut Pass or hut tickets.

Skill Level

Advanced

Wangapeka Track is an advanced tramping track and route, so groups attempting it should have the necessary skills and experience. The rivers and creeks rise rapidly, so be sensible after rain.

In the warmer months, the saddles should be free of snow and ice, but are still alpine environments where conditions can change rapidly.

The track’s centrepiece is Little Wanganui Saddle

All hikers should carry appropriate clothing and be prepared to change plans for the safety of the group.

DOC’s Wangapeka guide warns hikers of a giant slip zone, approximately 90 minutes into the hike. Hazards include the potential for falling rocks and for the dam left behind by the slip to suddenly pack up and leave, with you on it.

Essential Gear for Wangapeka Track

• PLB or InReach – pretty much par for the course in Aotearoa, always take it and check the battery regularly
• Map or navigation device – the track and route sections are both marked, but it’s still possible to lose your way. I carry a downloaded NZ Topo map on my smartphone
• Sleeping gear – if staying in huts, you’ll only need a sleeping bag and pillow
• Hiking boots and poles – I wore approach shoes and took two trekking poles, hoping to grab a speed advantage, but with so many roots and rocks underfoot, I didn’t see any gain! I’ll take my boots next time
• Waterproof jacket and enough clothes – you’re hiking towards the West Coast, so rain can come fast, heavy, and suddenly. You don’t want to be in wet clothes up on that windy saddle
• Swimming togs – this hike is beside four beautiful rivers, so bathing holes pop up all the time. Don’t miss out!
• Insect repellent and bite sooth – somehow, there are some sandfly-free sections of this hike. And there are some where they’re rampant! If you’re susceptible to itches ruining your life, take a tube of antihistamine cream
• Stove – unlike the Great Walks, the huts in these parts don’t come with cookers, so if you want hot food in your belly, you’re going to need a stove

Read more: Remember to leave no trace!

Reason why you need to bring togs

What It’s Like to Hike Wangapeka Track

Wangapeka Track is one of the South Island’s few marked routes over the Main Divide. Hiking this rugged crossing takes your imagination back to a time when detailed maps were limited and exploration was done by word of mouth.

Natural features, brought about by earthquakes and giant slips, scar the otherwise immaculate landscapes. The noise and devastation in that single moment would have been terrific. The rocky clearings left behind provide a dramatic glimpse of the towering mountain slopes.

Who knew earthquakes could create such beauty

Notes scrawled in the hut books claim lots of Whio sightings, so listen out for the fear-inducing screech of the female. NZ’s blue ducks spend their lives paddling in raging white water.

I was also frequently greeted by South Island robins and Black fantails. Uber-tame and apparently fearless, these unique birds liked to hop around up close whenever I stopped for a rest.

Day 1 – Rolling River Junction to Stone Hut

Distance: 20km
Duration: 5-6 hours

Fill out the intentions book in the shelter at Prices Clearing and make your way to Rolling River car park.

Follow the wide pack track up the true right of the Wangapeka, as it passes deep blue swimming holes and leads through several clearings, thick with wild grass and blackberry bushes.

Some of these may be boggy and require concentration not to slip.

After a scramble up some rocks, you’ll emerge from the bushes onto the boulder field left behind by a monster landslide in 2012. A lake sits upstream, littered with tree carcasses, while the river noisily rushes through a reduced channel. The track then climbs the bank, leaving the river’s side.

About 30 minutes after crossing the Wangapeka, a large clearing reveals Kings Creek Hut. It has a toilet, but if you need a nicer rest stop, continue for five minutes to the historic Cecil Kings Hut. This ageing shack is a far more interesting place to make a brew.

Cecil himself claimed he built this himself from a single red beech in 1935

Two more hours on foot bring you to Stone Hut. A small creek runs close by, while the upper Wangapeka runs past the edge of the grassy flat, where there’s a small dipping hole to soak those worn legs.

Day 2 – Stone Hut to Taipō Hut

Distance: 21km
Duration: 6-7 hours

Soon after leaving the hut, the track works its way through a major slip zone – the small river runs gently through a paddock of rocks, while the lack of vegetation allows an honest view of the harsh mountain slopes above.

You can’t escape the climb to Wangapeka Saddle, but enjoy the fact it’s only about 350m gain from Stone Hut. The track is decent too, winding its way up through the woods, beside the river as it shrinks underground.

There’s a signpost marking the saddle. There’s no view, and a diversion around a slip afterwards takes you to a higher altitude anyway, so it’s barely more than a route marker.

The route then descends gently through the trees to the Karamea River, which it follows for a couple of hours to Helicopter Flat Hut.

Karamea River at Helicopter Flat Hut

I found the hut a great place to stop for lunch. The sun was bouncing off the lush green valley and there was a distinct lack of sandflies, though I might have just got lucky.

The route then gradually climbs up to the Tabernacle Lookout – the site of Brough’s hut – before descending to a swing bridge over the Taipō River. You’ll then enter a mossy and enchanting forest for several kilometres, eventually reaching Taipō Hut.

The Allen Range high above Taipō Hut

Day 3 – Taipō Hut to Belltown Manunui Hut

Distance: 11km
Duration: 5-6 hours

Again, the big saddle ascent begins soon after leaving the hut. This time the target is the track’s centrepiece – Little Wanganui Saddle. Your first stop is Stag Flat, with its small shelter, then the real climb begins. It’s steep, but thankfully short, and the view brings the payoff.

The surrounding mountains give way to the Little Wanganui Valley, itself winding to the coast and revealing the blue ocean at its end. Enjoy laying eyes on your end goal.

The descent from the saddle is mean. Take care with every footstep as some rocks are loose and there are a lot of hidden tree roots. After approximately 2.5km, a swing bridge crosses the river and signals you’re on the valley floor.

Enjoy some ferny fairy land

The route from there to Belltown-Manunui Hut is a mixture of well-graded, easy track, and huge, steep diversions due to tree falls and slips. Be aware! The hut has moved 1km to the west and some maps still show its original location.

Day 4 – Belltown Manunui Hut to Wangapeka Road End

Distance: 10km
Duration: 3-4 hours

I recommend packing inside the hut, slipping your shoes on as you slide out the door and getting moving as you tighten your pack straps – the sandflies can be relentless here. Fortunately, they’re easy to lose and when I stopped soon after for a snack, none found me.

Apart from a few diversions due to slips and fallen trees, the exit to the road end provides a relaxing last day. Once you arrive at Gilmor Clearing, the hard work is done and you might like a break in the long grass by the river. The track leaves the river shortly after and only returns briefly for a series of creek crossings, as it nears the road end.

Congratulations! Time to celebrate with a drink. The Little Wanganui Hotel is only 8km from the finish…

Tips for Hiking Wangapeka Track

• Plan to stop over in Little Wanganui or Karamea. Accommodation options range from camping to luxurious lodges. Resupplying needs to be done in Karamea, as that’s where the supermarket is.
• Hitchhiking. Although there’s always a risk, I hitchhiked from Little Wanganui to Karamea and spent two nights at the campground. A campervanner then drove me back for my return tramp.
• No sandflies? Take a swim! The sandflies on the Wangapeka are either cloud-thick or non-existent. If you find a spot that the namu haven’t, get in the river.
• Cell service at Little Wanganui Saddle. If you’re walking east-west and getting picked up, the service at Little Wanganui Saddle means you can give someone a day’s notice of your planned finish.

FAQs for Wangapeka Track

Is the Wangapeka Track suitable for beginners?

As long as someone in your party is experienced and capable, there’s no reason why a beginner with a high level of fitness can’t join. However, it might take a day longer, so build this into the planning.

How do I get back after completing it?

Heaphy Track shuttle companies can be used for the Wangapeka too. Contact the Whakatū/Nelson DOC Visitors’ Centre for the current operators.

Can I walk it the other way?

You certainly can! There’s no set direction, so simply reverse this guidance and expect the climbs/descents to be different. Have fun!

Is it doable after heavy rain?

The water levels on the Dart River may make the road impassable. After that, there are a few crossings that may be unsafe after big deluges. Some have walkwires or alternative routes, but there are a couple that could become silly in bad conditions.