Why Winter is Perth’s Premium Paddling Season (& How You Can Get Amongst It)

Lisa set out to discover exactly what Perth paddlers get up to in winter when East Coast Explorers swap their paddles for ski poles. Turns out most are busy training for the iconic Avon Descent, while others are heading out for breakfast or paddling for pineapples.

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Noongar people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

Perth waterways are gorgeous, with secluded bays and sandy beaches, meandering river trails, and in winter, whitewater rapids. You’ll encounter Swan River dolphins, endemic to the estuarine waters all year round.

The Derbarl Yerrigan/Swan River and the Djarlgarro Beeliar/Canning River are the two major rivers that flow through Boorloo/Perth. The water is mostly saline and accessible to paddle craft all year round. Here are some reasons paddling through winter in the west is best.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

1. Perth is Less Likely to Blow in Winter

Perth is a very windy city. You won’t meet too many West Australians who can’t hold a convo about wind direction and when it’s the best time to go paddling or hit the surf. If it’s onshore, it’s time to hit the pub, right? Here’s a breakdown:

December to March – the Noongar seasons of Birak and Bunuru

• Strong morning easterlies batter Perth followed by cooling afternoon sea breezes (‘The Fremantle Doctor’, to the locals)
• The waterways are busy, and no one minds taking a dip when it’s hot
• Mornings are for ocean paddling and afternoons for kite surfing and down-winding

April to July – the Noongar seasons of Djeren and Makuru

• The weather gets colder, but the winds shift and there are many days where the waters are still. Compared to the East Coast of Australia, Perth winters are fairly tame
• Water levels rise and if there’s been a decent amount of rain, the current increases in the tributary rivers. Hello rapids and perfect paddling conditions!

August to November – the Noongar seasons of Djilba and Kambarang

• The winds pick up and it’s down-winding season again!

2. Winter Paddlers Usually Have the River to Themselves

With less boat backwash in winter, stand up paddlers, kayakers, skiers, and rowers have the vast river system to themselves. Once you get past the cold feet, winter paddling on glassy waters sans wind and pleasure crafts is what it’s all about!

3. White Water Action Actually Happens in Winter

This might state the bleeding obvious, but Perth is NOT the white-water capital of Australia. Rapids don’t exist during the warmer months, so when the Gugulja/Avon River gets up in winter, the adventurous get on it.  

The Gugulja/Avon River is a tributary of the Derbarl Yerrigan/Swan River extending 240km from the Wheat Belt basin to Walyunga National Park. One of the best-known spots for hitting the current is Bells Rapids, 45km from Perth city.

4. Winter Paddling Events Abound

I’m a year-round paddler who has tried my hand (paddle?) at rowing, kayaking, and stand-up paddle boarding (SUP). Heck, I even like to float around on an airbed if there’s water about.

I caught up with some winter paddlers last weekend to see why they choose cold wet feet over warm shoes and a gym membership. Turns out, some are simply paddling to breakfast while others are training for one of the biggest water sports events on the Perth calendar – The Avon Descent! Let’s start with breakfast.

Paddle to Breakfast on Saturdays

On Saturday morning at 7am, I joined a group of SUPers blowing steam into the cool air at Maylands Yacht Club, ten minutes from the CBD, to paddle a couple of kilometres to a cafe in Claisebrook Cove, East Perth. It was a perfect winter’s day.

Water you can see your face in means less chance of tipping over, and let’s face it, most paddlers who brave the winter waters make it their sole mission not to fall in. We parked our boards at Claisebrook Cove, smashed some smashed avo, and returned the way we came. 

En route, we crossed some kayakers and rowers as they glided silently and effortlessly through the water.  

Paddle for Pineapples on Sunday

The next morning, I joined Stand Up Paddle WA (SUPWA) for their monthly paddle loop in the upper reaches of the Derbarl Yerrigan/Swan River at the Ascot Kayak Club. This is a year-round activity, but winter usually guarantees a quicker time.

A paddle loop is a time trial of sorts where paddlers nominate their time for a 2km or 4km course, and the paddler closest to their own time wins a pineapple! I can’t remember why a pineapple. A symbol of the Hawaiian Shaka and they taste delicious?

It’s lots of fun and is probably the only race where being an Olympic champion doesn’t automatically mean you will win!

Speaking of Olympic champions, I caught up and paddled with ex-Olympic canoe sprint paddler Ferenc Szekszardi who’s just returned to Perth from Europe and is now turning his skills to SUP. Ferenc anticipates that SUP will be included in the 2028 Olympics and despite recently moving from Hungary claims, ‘I’m loving stand up paddling, but not the weather (in Perth), so much’. You can’t please everyone it seems!

Despite this, Ferenc finds winter on the water in Perth restorative.

Ferenc represented Australia in Rio in 2016 in the C2 1000m alongside Martin Maranov. The pair finished second in the B-final after finishing fifth in their semi-final. Ferenc has also coached the national Japanese and Chinese canoe teams. Now he paddles for pineapples in Perth. Go figure.

Ferenc isn’t a morning person, but concedes that Perth’s waters in winter are a treat. And let it be known that I won the pineapple and Ferenc came second.   

We also caught up with Darren Pratt, last year’s Avon Descent flat water SUP winner. He trains in the dark most mornings, so winter waters suit him well. These two legends join hundreds of paddlers and power dinghy pilots training for the Avon Descent on the 10-11th August 2024.  

The Avon Descent

The Avon Descent is more than just a race, it’s a gnarly adventure. The multi-sport race is a combination of custom-built power dinghies with flat bottoms, kayakers, single and double skis, stand up paddle boarders, and other recreational paddle craft. 

The full course is a 124km across two days from Northam to Bayswater in Perth, taking in wild rapids, rocks, and cold conditions. It’s an event like no other, and not just for the competitors. The spectators and support crew surrounding the race create a real buzz as they line the riverbanks.

Fun fact! In 2022, the field increased markedly when organisers included a flat-water leg. The ‘Bond to Bayswater Belter’ 13km is ideal for dragon boats, surf boats, SUP, outriggers, and any recreational paddle craft!

Avon Descent History

In 1973, 49 intrepid competitors raced the first Avon Descent with no rules, no officials, no checkpoints, and few spectators. Since then, over 35,000 competitors have taken part in this family-friendly event, open to everyone from novice to Olympic competitors.  

Held in high and low water conditions, the Avon Descent has only ever been cancelled once because of the pandemic. Through hell or high water, competitors haul their craft over rocks when the waters are low and ride the rapids when it’s high. Spectators and support crew follow the race from Northam to Bayswater in Perth.  

The Avon Descent Course

Day 1 – Northam to Cobbler Pool

Distance: 52km

Starting in the Avon River basin (known as Gogulgar by the Ballardong Noongar people) the course heads downriver through Toodyay. Paddlers and supporters spend the first chilly night at Cobblers Pool, 20km east of Toodyay. 

Day 2 – Cobbler Pool to Bayswater

Distance: 72km

Participants tackle the valley with major whitewater obstacles and challenges, including Supershoot, Emu Falls, Championship Rapids, and Bells Rapids. Once past the obstacles, participants have 30km of flat water to the finish line in Bayswater. 

Happening This Weekend

The Avon Descent is an annual event and is happening this week on the 10th and 11th of August. Anyone who paddles right now is hoping for a major downpour so they can get themselves some rapids! With multiple viewpoints and festivals up and down the river, the race is one of Perth’s great spectator sports.

As for the fair-weather paddlers of Perth, who disappear until the temperatures rise, you really don’t know what you’re missing – Perth is the place to paddle in winter! See you on the water.

FAQs Winter Paddling Perth

Is it safe to kayak in the Swan River?

Kayaking and paddling other watercraft on Perth’s Swan River is safe, just be sure to watch out for other boats and stay out of their way. If you’re unsure, it’s possible to book a guided tour instead.

Can you stand up paddleboard on the Swan River?

Absolutely! Stand up paddleboarding is a fantastic way to see the river and Perth from a new perspective. If you don’t have your own board, there are different SUP tour and hire companies available.