Over four days, Dunc and his partner Zoe experienced the premier Milford Track in Fiordland, Aotearoa New Zealand – a bookable Great Walk, with comfortable huts, a challenging alpine pass, dramatic valleys, perfect rivers, and waterfalls forever.

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Quick Overview

The Milford Track is a 53.5km one-way, intermediate hike located in Fiordland National Park, between Lake Te Anau and Milford Sound, in the Southland region of South Island, New Zealand. The hike takes four days to complete during the Great Walks season (November-April) and must be completed south-north.

Tackling the Milford Track outside the Great Walks season places it in the advanced category and it should only be attempted by those with alpine, river crossing, and navigation skills, while carrying an ice axe and crampons.

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

Milford Track Facts

Distance: 53.5km
Duration: 4 days during Great Walks season, potentially faster in non-bookable shoulder season, but other risks apply
Elevation gain: 1,755m
Nearest town: Te Anau and Milford Sound Village

About Milford Track

Fiordland National Park, part of Te Wāhipounamu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the wilderness capital of New Zealand. A true adventurer’s playground in the far southwest of the South Island, it comprises the southern ranges of the Southern Alps and 14 fjords.

Milford Track hikers travel from the northern tip of Lake Te Anau overland through steep glacial valleys, past rushing waterfalls, punctuated by epic mountainscapes, to reach Piopiotahi-Milford Sound – which isn’t a sound, but one of those many fjords.

During the Great Walk season, bookings are limited in numbers and must be in a south-north direction over three nights, four days, heading up the Clinton Valley to Omanui-McKinnon Pass, before heading down the Arthur River to be collected by boat at Sandfly Point.

 

Milford Track History

It’s believed various routes to Piopiotahi have been known and used by Māori for over 1000 years, including the route over Omanui, which would later be named McKinnon Pass. Māori people would travel from inland, past Te Ana-au, to Milford Sound to collect tangiwai pounamu – a type of greenstone unique to this fjord.

Europeans arrived and, in 1888, Quintin McKinnon and Ernest Mitchell were commissioned to search for a pass that’d allow tourist access to Milford Sound. About 11 years earlier, Scotsman Donald Sutherland had become Milford Sound’s first permanent resident, and had set about clearing a track from Sandfly Point right up the Arthur Valley to the gigantic Sutherland Falls (guess who they’re named after). Known in Māori as Te Tau-tea ka tu, these 580m high waterfalls are New Zealand’s tallest.

McKinnon and Mitchell spent months cutting a track from Lake Te Anau up the Clinton Valley. During one scouting mission, they crossed a pass and happened upon Sutherland’s track. The full route quickly became established and tourists flocked to it, encouraged by a 1908 London Spectator article labelling it the ‘finest walk in the world’.

 

How to Get to the Milford Track

By Transfer and Bus

The Milford Track trailhead is reached by a one-hour boat ride from Te Anau Downs, which in turn requires a bus journey from Te Anau town. Since the track finishes on the shores of the fjord, a water taxi is also required to get to Milford Sound. Booking a transfer package out of and back to Te Anau is the easiest way to get on and off the track.

We booked our transfer with Tracknet, which offers a variety of packages, some of which include a cruise on Milford Sound on arrival (why go all that way and not see the Tasman Sea??). This season’s prices are $255NZD per adult for transfers to/from Te Anau or $394NZD per adult for transfers and a cruise. Be aware that there’s a difference between Te Anau and Te Anau Downs (some people like to leave a vehicle by the lake at Te Anau Downs to return to).

There are also transfers available from Queenstown to the track, however we caught the InterCity bus, which took around 2.5 hours from Queenstown to Te Anau and costs $75 each way.

By Foot

The only marked way to access the track on foot is over Dore Pass, following an eight-hour expert route from the Milford Highway over the Earl Mountains. The avalanche risk depends on the time of year and how far along the snowmelt process is. Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre in Te Anau can assist with this. Remember, you’ll still need a water taxi and return shuttle to Te Anau at the end.

Where to Stay Along the Milford Track

There are no campsites on the Milford Track, so accommodation is the bookable Great Walk huts. In order, these are Clinton Hut, Mintaro Hut, and Dumpling Hut.

Ultimate Hikes also offers guided trips and its own luxury accommodation, which ‘free hikers’ may look at in envy as they pass.

Skill Level

Intermediate-Advanced

The majority of the Milford Track follows wide and well-graded clear paths, with the occasional steep incline, that most fitness levels will be more than capable of conquering. Decent outdoor footwear, clothing, gear, and some experience and sense in the wild is enough.

The third day traverse of Omanui-McKinnon Pass is the more advanced section. The track from Mintaro Hut is noticeably steeper, formed with jagged rocks. The pass itself is susceptible to quickly-shifting alpine conditions year-round, so greater care is required.

Day four requires an 18km hike to meet the scheduled water taxi on time. The Department of Conservation doesn’t recommend walkers under 10 years old attempt the hike. There’s no reception on the track, so take a PLB or inReach.

Essential Gear

  • Stove – in season, the huts all have gas cookers, but bring your own if you want a hot drink at one of the many shelters
  • Hat and gloves – the climate on the pass is different to the valleys
  • Map or navigation device – the track’s very well marked, but it’s always possible to get lost. I carry a downloaded NZ Topo map on my phone to monitor our location and points of interest
  • PLB
  • First aid kit
  • Generous-sized water bladder or filter – sample that waterfall goodness!
  • Water resistant camera – if you intend to approach the spray clouds of Sutherland Falls
  • Swimmers and towel
  • Ear plugs – for those nights in the shared bunkrooms
  • Hand sanitiser – you’re piling into crowded huts every night: don’t get what the others have
  • Insect repellent and bite soothe – this is one of the most sandfly-crammed parts of NZ’s most sandfly-crammed island and the hike literally finishes at a place called Sandfly Point. If itching wrecks your soul, take a tube of antihistamine cream

What It’s Like to Hike the Milford Track

Day 1 – Glade Wharf to Clinton Hut

Distance: 5km
Duration: 1-1.5 hours
Navigation: GPX file

I spent the boat ride fretting about crowd-overload and treading one of the country’s most worn paths. However, as our watercraft came to a rest at Glade Wharf, I took a long look to the south west and realised this place is as wild as anywhere. Pangs of excitement took over as I stepped off the ferry and we eased into our four day trek.

The walk from Glade Wharf to Clinton Hut won’t challenge most. It begins with a brief and flat stroll through the forest, offering occasional glimpses of the emerald-coloured lake, before arriving at a large clearing below Dore Pass. Here sits Glade House, the first luxury accommodation for those taking a guided hike.

‘Can you sell me a coffee?’ I enquired through an open door, clearly brimming with hope. I was only one brew in – a consequence of getting away early to catch the bus.

‘Sorry, we can only serve our customer’, replied the well-dressed waiter. Fair enough.

Immediately after the lodge, the track crosses the Clinton River and there’s no denying it’s spectacular. Crystal clear water, tinged with turquoise drains below the swing bridge.

 

 

The flat track winds its way upstream, with occasional breaks in the trees offering hints of the scenes to come. Near-vertical valley sides sweep upwards, the foliage of the lower slopes eventually giving way to browns and greys up high. Even on our overcast day, it was clear this is some magical country.

After a leisurely two hour wander, we arrived at Clinton Hut. A bunch of other hikers had arrived before us, but there was still another boat or two due at Glade Wharf. We made our lunch, as others drifted in, slowly filling the place to its capacity of 40.

Evening came and the warden stopped by to check everyone in, before giving an informative guided walk on the types of trees around the hut and pointing us down the track to the local glowworms.

Day 2 – Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut

Distance: 17.5km
Duration: 6 hours
Navigation: GPX file

From Clinton Hut the track continues on the true right of the Clinton River. An early highlight for us was the spectacle of two Kea – the world’s only alpine parrot – fighting each other on a long tree branch.

The river bed is wide and pebbly, offering plenty of opportunities to step off the track and catch full glimpses of the increasingly dramatic scenes, without the forest canopy obscuring. Multiple streams of water tumble down the extreme hillsides, appearing to froth white in colour, resembling veins of the landscape.

 

 

We arrived at Hirere Shelter just in time for our first rain shower – what timing. It was a heavy one and lasted, so we enjoyed the dry and ate an early lunch.

The forest opens up after the shelter, allowing the views to move into 360º waterfall viewing mode. We took the side track to Hidden Lake and caught a glimpse of a kōwhiowhio blue duck happily swimming far away on the other side.

Back in the beech forest, the track climbs steadily for the final push towards the new Mintaro Hut, which opened in 2021. The old site was abandoned due to rockfall risk, but is still visible on some Topo map versions, so you might need to prepare for an extra 20 minute push.

Day 3 – Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut

Distance: 13km
Duration: 6-7 hours
Navigation: GPX file

Straight out of Mintaro Hut, the track soon ascends the switchbacks en route to the 1156m Omanui-McKinnon Pass. It’s not super steep, but this is the track’s main climb and the elevation rises rapidly as we tramped carefully up the jagged rock path.

Our day was cloudy, limiting visibility and leaving my beard with an unending supply of water droplets. We paused for a short break at the pass, soaking up the scenes of other hikers posing for pics in this colour-washed reality, but  it was too cold to just sit around, so we pressed on to McKinnon Pass Shelter and made a cuppa. It was bustling with other hikers, all familiar faces from the previous two nights.

The wind had an advantage over the cloud on the other side of the pass, treating us to sunny spells as we descended between the snow-covered mountains. The main track sweeps to the east, below Jervois Glacier, however this was closed and we had to take the steeper ‘Emergency Track’ directly down to Roaming Burn. A series of rushing waterfalls greeted us, which the track follows closely thanks to a series of wooden steps and platforms.

Roaming Burn flows into the Arthur River and once at the valley floor, we found Ultimate Hikes’ Quintin Lodge, alongside a day shelter for us ‘free hikers’. It had a hot water urn with tea and coffee, all provided by the guide company. This day was turning into a real hot drink fest.

Black coffee sunk, we left our packs at the shelter and took on the 90 minute return side quest to see Sutherland Falls. This track culminates with a long, straight approach, the falls occasionally visible, while the rushing sound of water gradually increases volume. We emerged from the trees to the sight of the epic falls crashing down into the small pool, spray drifting everywhere, soaking anything and everything that got in its way.

 

 

The water quickly flows from the pool down a section of rapids, where we saw a pair of kōwhiowhio. Beaks in the water to feed, they rock-hopped up the rapids towards the main pool, undeterred by the tonnes of water crashing down. These birds are rarer than kiwi birds, easily making their sighting the highlight of this hike.

Packs back on, we trundled, satisfied, down the Arthur Valley to Dumpling Hut, named not after the menu on offer, but a dumpling-shaped hill sat on the opposite river bank.

Day 4 – Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point

Distance: 18km
Duration: 5.5-6 hours
Navigation: GPX file

The hurdle of the final day on the Milford Track is the battle between the desire to extend this incredible experience as much as possible, while still making your water taxi on time. We set off at 7:30am and took a leisurely six hours to reach the pick-up point, giving us a 30 minute buffer before our 2pm boat. Be aware: Sandfly Point is aptly named, so you might like to trim that wait time down!

Despite being the finale, there’s still heaps left to witness on the way out. Boatshed Shelter is the first stop, a site used by prisoners working on the track in its early days and place where boats were stored for ferrying people across the Arthur River. These days, hikers cross using a swingbridge – a touch less exciting than the thought of having a ferryman cross you.

 

 

Once on the true left of the Arthur River, we found the picturesque Mackay Falls, made home by another kōwhiowhio on a white water adventure. Despite heading towards sea level, there are still occasional small climbs to make, particularly around the shores of Lake Ada, which the river flows through.

By now, the high pressure had set in and we tramped around the lakeside to a bluebird day, our eyes greedily feasting on the mint scenes before us: snow-capped mountains, steep rocky cliffs, marked with occasional waterfalls, and dark green vegetation eagerly growing up the sides. Welcome to Piopiotahi Milford Sound, it’s one heck of a fjord.

 

Tips For Hiking the Milford Track

  • In Fiordland, rain is measured in metres, so definitely expect it to rain
  • During the Great Walks season, the huts must be booked in advance and there’s no flexibility on the number of nights you may book – one out, one in!
  • When you book a full transfer package, ensure you get the last available pick-up time from Milford Sound back to Te Anau, if you want to go on a fjord cruise
  • To see the glowworms, head out of Clinton Hut back to the main track, swing a left and walk down a few minutes to find them at an embankment on the track’s left
  • Read the hut books. The country’s hut books are full of interesting, enlightening, and fascinating nuggets of trail wisdom

Read more: 7 Tips for Rainy Day Hiking

 

Milford Track FAQs

How long does it take to walk the Milford Track?

Most hikers take four days to walk the Milford Track.

Is the Milford Track difficult?

The Milford Track is an intermediate to advanced track, a lot of which is due to the changing weather conditions. Parts of the track are wide, open, and easy to navigate, while others are rocky, jagged, and steep.

How much does the Milford Track cost?

The cost of walking the Milford Track varies depending on your age, where you live, and what season you’re walking in.

For New Zealanders walking in peak season (end of October to end of April, adults cost $106 per night, children (5-17) cost $53, while infants under 5 years old are free.

For international walkers during peak season, adults cost $152 per night, children cost $76, and infants are free.

Outside of peak season, all adult walkers pay $30 per night and children cost $15 per night.

Can you do Milford Track in a day?

Some expert hikers will physically be able to walk the Milford Track in a single day, however, it’s not recommended to traverse the trail this way.

What is the best month to do the Milford Track?

The Milford Track hiking season is between the end of October and the end of April. However January and February are most likely to guarantee warmer weather and have longer twilight hours too.

South Island New Zealand is a Multi-Day Walk Haven

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