Hunt for the Wilderpeople in Auckland’s Waitakere Ranges

If you’re heading to the North Island of New Zealand, the Waitākere Ranges should definitely be on your list. With trails through the forest and incredible beaches, you’ll feel miles from anywhere in a region that’s actually very accessible from the country’s most populous city.

Quick Overview

Only a 40-minute drive west from Auckland’s city centre, the Waitākere Ranges Regional Park encompasses 16,000 hectares of native rainforest and coastline, with over 250km of walking tracks.

About the Waitākere Ranges

In the Waitākere Ranges, ancient-looking forests and rugged coastlines combine to create film-worthy scenery. In fact, more than one movie has been filmed in this region, and for once, I’m not talking about The Lord of the Rings trilogy.

Taika Waititi’s Hunt for the Wilderpeople is a heartwarming film that showcases beautiful regions as teenager Ricky Baker and his ‘Uncle Hec’ escape into the New Zealand bush. Looking out across the landscape, the two characters argue about whether ‘majestical’ is a word, and when Ricky insists that the correct word is ‘majestic’, Uncle Hec retorts, ‘That doesn’t sound very special. Majestical’s way better’.

And I think that’s the only way to describe many of the views you’ll come across in the Waitākere Ranges. Majestic simply doesn’t cut it. Uncle Hec was right; the views are majestical.

If you don’t get your fill of filmic scenery while hunting through the rainforests of the ranges, then you can always head down to the black volcanic sands of Karekare Beach, where scenes from Jane Campion’s The Piano were filmed.

History of the Waitākere Ranges

The history of the Waitākere Ranges is rich and ancient, yet much of it is still very much alive and active today.

The region is home to the magnificent kauri trees, which are both ancient as a species (around 20 million years old) and as individuals (kauri trees can live for more than 1,000 years). They’re significant to the Māori people and considered to represent the general well-being of the ngahere/forest and the people. They were traditionally used to make waka/canoes and were logged extensively following European settlement.

The Arataki Visitor Centre is a great place to start if you want to learn more about the history of the Waitākere Ranges, its ecology, and its people, while the Auckland Museum will give you greater insight into the history of the region as a whole.

How to Get to the Waitākere Ranges

It’ll take you around 30-40 minutes to drive to the Waitākere Ranges from the Auckland CBD.

If you’re wondering how to get to the Waitākere Ranges by bus, then public transport is out, but you can look into a local tour or shuttle bus if you’d rather not hire a car or drive out there on your own.

Where to Stay in the Waitākere Ranges

With its proximity to Auckland, you’ll be spoilt for choice when looking for places to stay near the Waitākere Ranges.

The VR Queen Street is reasonably priced for a hotel in the Auckland CBD. You can get rooms with a kitchenette to prepare meals to fuel all your adventures, and you’ll have Myers Park directly behind you for an early morning run or a stretch (Tai Chi seems to be a popular option).

If you want to stay in the ranges themselves, then the Huia Lodge is a converted schoolhouse that can accommodate large groups, while Dusk and Dawn is a more intimate glamping option for two in Waiatarua.

For something a little more luxurious, the Waitakere Resort and Spa is a hotel, restaurant, day spa, and wellness retreat nestled amongst the trees of Waitākere.

Where to Eat in the Waitākere Ranges

If you’re staying at the Waitakere Resort and Spa (or decide to drop in) then you’ll have your pick of breakfast, lunch, dinner, or high tea.

In the coastal town of Piha, you’ll find a small cluster of eateries, including Surfside Bites and Brew at the Piha Surf Life Saving Club.

I’m afraid I can’t personally recommend any of these places (although the photos of their menus online look top-notch), but if you’ve brought your own lunch for a hike in the region, and that hike has turned rainy, then I can tell you with firsthand experience, that underneath the balcony of the Arataki Visitor Centre is an excellent place to dry off while consuming your soggy sandwich.

Things to Do in the Waitākere Ranges

• Go surfing at Piha Beach
• Take a hike
• Join a canyoning tour
• Hunt for film locations
• Go chasing waterfalls

Essential Gear for the Waitākere Ranges

This’ll depend on your activities and the time of year, but I’d definitely start with the following.

• Good walking shoes
• Rain jacket
• A water bottle and snacks
• Bathers/togs/cossie/swimmers/wetsuit
• Camera

Read more: What to Pack in Your Hiking First Aid Kit

What It’s Like to Visit the Waitākere Ranges

I visited the Waitākere Ranges in May, and the temperatures were perfect for hiking. There was a lot of rain (with nearby regions experiencing flooding) but in the ranges it meant the waterfalls were flowing and the rainbows were frequent.

If you start your visit to the region at the Arataki Visitor Centre, then you’ll gain useful information on hiking trails and track closures, and learn more about the area in a beautiful setting. The centre’s also the starting point for many of the region’s trails.

Some tracks in the area remain closed to protect the region’s kauri trees, and visitors are encouraged to clean their shoes and bikes at the stations designed to prevent the further spread of a fungus-like organism that’s causing kauri dieback.

Read more: Remember to Leave No Trace

Winding through the narrow, hilly roads of the Waitākere Ranges reminds me of the Dandenong Ranges in Victoria. Then again, the lush rainforest landscape running down to the coastline has a lot in common with Sydney’s Northern Beaches. But the Waitākere Ranges are their own special place, and that’s really why we seek out new places, isn’t it?

With only a limited time on the North Island, I opted for a day trip to the ranges that included walking a loop track from the visitor centre, a drive down to Karekare Falls, and a meander along the black sand beaches nearby.

After arriving at the Arataki Visitor Centre, and waiting without luck for the rain to clear, I set out on the Slip, Pipeline, and Beveridge Track Loop. At just over 6km in length, with 210m of elevation gain, the loop took around 2-2.5 hours to complete.

The downhill sections took me towards quietly babbling creeks, and the uphills usually resulted in some incredible outlooks. Overall the loop walk was very relaxing, as I brushed past tree ferns, shaded by the towering canopy, listening to birdsong, and rarely passing another human.

Parts of the walk were decidedly less majestical though, with sections along maintenance tracks with an industrial pipeline running alongside it (I guess it’s in the name). Reception and trail markers become scarcer the further I got from the visitor centre, so it pays to know where you’re headed.

The end of the walk took me back onto dirt roads as I climbed towards the visitor centre. This is where the track was the busiest, as I started to pass other hikers, mountain bikers, and locals.

If you’re looking for something more accessible, then it’s still worth a trip to the Arataki Visitor Centre, where you’ll find ramps up to the balcony where you can look out over the ranges and nearby reservoir. Of course, if you’re searching for something more challenging, then there are plenty of longer and more difficult trails in the area as well.

After completing the loop track, it was time to drive down to Karekare.

The Karekare Beach car park is just off small and winding Karekare Road, and is a good starting point for a few short detours. Leaving the car park, a 500m walk up the non-existent shoulder of Lone Kauri Road took me to the Karekare Falls track. I could see the waterfall from the road, but it was well worth taking the detour to get a closer look. It’d make a great spot for a paddle on a hot day, especially as the neighbouring beach is better suited to surfers.

Read more: Staying Safe Around Swimming Holes and Waterfalls

The walk from the car park to Karekare Beach took me alongside a stream and past the surf club. It wasn’t long before I was on the beach itself, with the black volcanic sand providing a dramatic contrast to the crashing white-capped waves of the Tasman Sea.

Read more: How to Stay Safe at the Beach

With the sun doing another disappearing act and the wind whipping the beach into a nice, exfoliating sand scrub, I wasn’t too keen on swimming, but there are miles of beach to explore along this coastline, even if you’re not getting in the water.

On a day trip from Auckland it’s possible to see a lot of the area, and I highly recommend adding the Waitākere Ranges to your destination list if you’re already in the city. But if you have time for a longer stay in the region itself, then you’ll have no shortage of majestical wilderness and coastline to explore.

FAQs Waitākere Ranges

Is Waitākere Ranges worth visiting?

Absolutely! The ranges are less than an hour’s drive from Auckland, making them perfectly placed for a day trip, or a weekend if you’ve got the time. There are stunning rainforest vistas, waterfalls, and black sand beaches to witness.

Where is the Waitākere Ranges located?

The ranges are around 30km south-west of Auckland, and only take around 30-40 minutes to reach from the CBD.

Are there Kaka in the Waitākere Ranges?

Yes, the large, forest-dwelling parrot known as the New Zealand Kaka is found in the ranges.

How many walks are in the Waitākere Ranges?

There are over 250km of walking tracks in the Waitākere Ranges Regional Park.