Eva and Adam are on a long, cruisey lap of Australia in their Troopy. As part of their trip, they challenged themselves to drive across the Simpson Desert. Here’s how it turned out.

 

We acknowledge that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Wangkangurru Yarluyandi people who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

 

Please note! Munga-Thirri National Park in the Simpson Desert is currently closed due to flooding of all things. The expected reopening is 30th of June 2023, but please check the national parks website for up-to-date info.

When our ‘Big Lap’ of Aus took a wild and unexpected turn away from the busy East Coast surfing towns, we decided to set our sights on the desert instead and dragged my Dad along for the adventure of a lifetime. And boy am I glad we did because this adventure was the highlight of our year by far. 

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of knowing you’re totally alone in the wild, two-day’s drive from the nearest town. It makes you feel small and insignificant and in complete awe of the natural world. It’s worth the heat and the wind and the flies just to get that feeling of being truly alone in the wild.

 

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Quick Overview

A 4WD crossing of the Simpson Desert, from NT to QLD, is around a 3-4 day adventure. The drive is tough and involves being totally self-sufficient and requires previous 4WDing experience and knowledge.

About the Simpson Desert Crossing

If you look at a satellite map of Australia you’ll notice a big red splodge almost smack bang in the centre. That’s the Simpson Desert – a wild, harsh and beautiful place. It’s about as remote as you can get – there’s no food or water for hundreds of kilometres and temperatures regularly cruise well above 40 degrees even in the cooler months.

It seems totally inaccessible, so naturally, crossing the Simpson Desert is at the top of the ‘To Do’ list for any 4WD adventure enthusiast worth their salt.  

Read more: Remember to leave no trace

 

How to Get to the Simpson Desert Crossing

You can begin the Simpson Desert crossing from either the east (Birdsville, QLD) or the west (Mount Dare, SA). You’ll obviously need to drive to these points, which can be multiple additional days of travel depending on where you’re coming from.

Where to Stay Along the Simpson Desert Crossing

There are no designated campgrounds in the Simpson Desert, you can just pick a good looking spot between two sand dunes and pitch up there!

However camping is only permitted within 100 metres of the track you’re following (whether the QAA or WAA line) so don’t stray too far afield.

Skill Level

Advanced

You’ll need plenty of previous 4WDing experience, as well as the skills and knowledge needed to get your car out of tough situations.

The Simpson Desert crossing is incredibly remote, without reception, water sources, or food, so you’ll need to be self-sufficient.

Read more: How To 4WD For Beginners

Distance / Duration of a Simpson Desert Crossing

For our entire trip: 1075km / 6 days / 5-7 hours driving each day

Just the Simpson Desert Crossing: approx 400km / 4 days

Essential Gear for a Simpson Desert Crossing

  • Extra fuel – A long range fuel tank or spare jerry cans are critical. On this trip you’ll travel 500km between fuel stops (Mount Dare to Birdsville) and driving in low range on soft sand will use more fuel than normal. A conservative way to estimate how much fuel you’ll need is to figure out how many litres of fuel your car uses per 100km, then double that. We used 20L per 100km while driving through the Simpson
  • Extra water – Allow for 10L of water per person per day. You probably won’t use all that but at least if something goes wrong and you get stuck an extra day or two you’ll be fine
  • 4WD experience– It goes without saying that crossing the Simpson is a fairly advanced 4WD trip that you shouldn’t take on lightly. Having said that, you don’t need to be a complete pro to do it, especially if you take someone else experienced with you. If you’re new to 4WDing you could up your experience beforehand by taking a 4WD course or trying your hand at some soft sand beach driving as a test run. As always, the most important trick with driving in soft sand is to let your tyre pressure right down and drive in low gear while keeping your revs high
  • Recovery gear – It’s a legal requirement to have a safety flag in the Simpson Desert for visibility while driving up and down steep dunes. Other essential recovery gear includes recovery boards and a long-handled shovel for digging your tyres out of sand bogs, and a winch and snatch straps in case you need to be assisted by another car
  • Desert Parks Pass – You can buy your Desert Parks Pass at the Mount Dare Hotel at the start of the trip or order it in advance online. Your pass covers all camping in the park and maps of the tracks and essential info so I recommend ordering it in advance to help you plan
  • Communication – There’s no reception in the desert so it’s worth hiring a satellite phone in case you get into trouble. You can get them at Mount Dare for $40 per day and drop it off at the Birdsville Info Centre.

And of course

– Two-way radio
– A compressor and tire pressure gauge to lower and pump up tyres
– Fly nets (I can not stress this enough, these are a must have!)
– Shovel and toilet paper
– Gas stove and cooking gear
– Firewood
– Tent/sleeping gear
– Camera and drone

Read more: Outback Driving Survival Guide

What it’s Like to Drive Across the Simpson Desert

Day 1 – Alice Springs to Kulgera

Distance: 275km
Duration: 2 hours 50 mins

This is the most relaxed day of driving, so enjoy it because the next five are going to be BIG. 

Before you leave Alice Springs, fill your water tanks, stock up on at least a week of food and check everything in, on, and around your car because the next mechanic and supplies are in Birdsville!

If you’ve got time for some sightseeing on the way, take the 20km track to Rainbow Valley and check out the stunning multicoloured cliffs. Camp at the Kulgera Roadhouse. They have grassy spots under trees, allow fires, and have a lovely little pool to cool off in!

 

Day 2 – Kulgera to Dalhousie Springs

Distance: 370km
Duration: around 4 hours 45 mins

Once you leave Kulgera you won’t be seeing any phone service or bitumen roads until you reach Birdsville on the other side of the desert! There are 300km of shuddering corrugated road between Kulgera and Mount Dare. On the way take a detour into the ‘official’ centre of Australia, because really, when are you likely to ever be there again?

 

 

Mount Dare will be your last stop for water and fuel before the desert. Here you’ll pick up a Desert Parks Pass which allows access to Witjira National Park, Simpson Desert Conservation Area, and Munga-Thirri National Park – all of which you’ll cross between here and Birdsville.  

It’s also totally worth indulging in a burger and a beer on the shady lawn and hiring a satellite phone for the trip, just in case of emergencies. 

Camp for the night another 70km down the road at Dalhousie Springs Campground. Right next to camp is a blissful hot spring to soak in and soothe your body after the long drive. 

Read more: Staying Safe Around Swimming Holes

 

Days 3-5 – Dalhousie to Northern Territory Border

Distance: approx. 330km

Have one final soak before hitting the road into official desert territory! There are a few different tracks you can take across. The French Line is the most direct and popular route but this means it also gets the most traffic meaning the track can become quite rough and chopped up

We opted to take the slightly longer route via the WAA Line. You get a more varied scenery than just sand dune after sand dune (you’ll be sick of them by the end trust me) and the added bonus was that we went entire days without seeing another single soul. 

 

 

Most people drive the desert in three days but we had time on our hands and took an extra day to soak it all in. After all, what’s the point in driving to the most remote, stunning, arid, captivating place in Australia and not having time to appreciate it?

As you get further from Dalhousie, the rocky, moon-like plains fade into gradually bigger dunes and the sand beneath you reddens. At the top of each dune, you catch a glimpse of the empty single lane desert track stretching to the horizon before dipping back down to start the next climb.

We drove through the heat of the day (us with aircon, Dad sadly, without) and stopped to set up camp between dunes each night. 

 

 

With the extra day up our sleeve, we had time to cook delicious slow-cooked stews on the campfire, roam the dunes in search of animal tracks, witness a flock of hundreds of green budgies zoom past our camp, stand in awe of a spectacular pink sunset and a full moonrise, marvel at the colourful desert flowers in full bloom, and stop to leap around at the top of the reddest, sandiest dunes we could find. 

 

Day 6 – The Triumphant Arrival in Birdsville!

Distance: approx. 100km

On our last day of driving the sand dunes got bigger and further apart and in places gave way to huge crusted salt flats.

 

 

The very last sand dune was the biggest and even had its own name – ‘Big Red’. We arrived at Big Red, in the early afternoon on our last day. It took a few test runs but eventually, all three of us managed to drive our way up and over the enormous 40-metre-high dune. 

 

 

From the other side of Big Red it’s 35km to Birdsville where a well deserved hot shower, cold beer, and delicious pub meal awaits! 

 

Tips for a Simpson Desert Crossing

  • The Simpson Desert is closed to cars between December 1 and March 15 due to the extremely high temperatures. We crossed in early October and the most comfortable time to travel is between May and October
  • You’ll need to take at least a two car convoy to cross the Simpson Desert in order to help pull a car out if it becomes stuck

Simpson Desert Crossing FAQs

How long does it take to cross the Simpson Desert?

A Simpson Desert crossing generally takes at least 3-4 full days, but you should factor in a few days of preparation beforehand as well as driving to the start of the desert.

Do you need a 4WD for Simpson Desert crossing?

Absolutely. Unless you plan on riding over the desert on a fat bike instead, a high-clearance 4WD is essential. Do not attempt this drive in a 2WD or AWD.

Where is the Simpson Desert located?

The Simpson Desert is in the south-east corner of the Northern Territory and crosses the border in Queensland and South Australia.

How do you get to the Simpson Desert?

The best way to reach the Simpson Desert is by starting in either Birdsville, QLD or Mount Dare, SA.

When is the Simpson Desert crossing open?

The Simpson Desert is closed to cars between December 1 and March 15 due to the extremely high temperatures.

Do I need to book my visit to the Simpson Desert?

You’ll need to buy your Desert Parks Pass before heading into the desert. This gives you access and permission to camp in the Simpson Desert.

When is the best time of year to visit the Simpson Desert?

We crossed in early October and the most comfortable time to travel is between May and October

How many days should I spend on the Simpson Desert Crossing?

The crossing of the Simpson Desert will take around 3-4 days, but account for a few additional days in case of unforeseen misadventures!

Is the Simpson Desert crossing good for beginners?

Nope! You definitely need previous 4WDing experience to tackle the Simpson Desert crossing.

Can you swim at the Simpson Desert?

Surprisingly, yes! At the start of the Simpson Desert crossing you’ll find Dalhousie Springs, a naturally occurring spring thanks to the Great Artesian Basin. Apart from that, it’ll be sand on sand on sand.

Is the Simpson Desert crossing open?

Not completely! Munga-Thirri National Park is currently closed due to flooding of all things. The expected reopening is 30th of June 2023.

Is the Simpson Desert crossing free?

Nope, you’ll need to purchase a Desert Parks Pass before you enter Munga-Thirri National Park.