Road trippin across Australia’s longest, straightest road, Margie’s plan was to get across the Nullarbor Plain ASAP. But with her husband and two young kids in tow, the journey quickly became the destination as she realised there’s more to this iconic road than first meets the eye.

 

We Are Explorers acknowledges that this adventure is located on the traditional Country of the Mirning People who have occupied and cared for the lands, waters, and their inhabitants for thousands of years. We pay our respects to them as the Traditional Custodians and recognise that sovereignty was never ceded.

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Quick Overview

The Eyre Highway, or Nullarbor Plain as it’s also known, is an iconic drive that covers 1,201km from Ceduna, eight hours northwest of Adelaide, to Norseman in Western Australia.

Read more: 50 Lessons From a Road Trip Across Australia

The Nullarbor Plain Facts

Distance: 1201km
Duration: 6 days
Route: From Ceduna to Norseman

About the Nullarbor Plain

Crossing a whopping 1,201km over vast stretches of both South Australia and Western Australia, the Eyre Highway is an iconic drive featuring the longest straight road in the Southern Hemisphere. The drive also consists of the longest golf course, perfect viewing locations for migrating whales, and wide open spaces.

 

Quintessential selfie with the sign

 

Travellers and road train drivers routinely use this road to traverse the continent of Australia, and when the Eyre Highway is driven slowly, some remarkable locations are discovered. Some require 4WD access, while others are just off the main blacktop. Either way, a keen sense of adventure is all that’s necessary to discover some untouched spectacular locations.

Read more: 9 Things to Think About Before Your First 4WD Trip

The Nullarbor Plain History

Originally home to the Mirning People, the Nullarbor Plain remained untouched by Europeans until the 1800s. Edward John Eyre and Wylie, a local man, became the first to cross the plain in 1841. In 1865, it became the ‘Nullarbor’ Plain, named by Edmund Delisser, which translates as ‘no trees’ in Latin.

Later, in 1941, construction began on what is now the modern highway, which was sealed during the 1970s.

It officially stretches from Port Augusta to Norseman, a journey of 1,675km, although most travellers consider Ceduna to Norseman as ‘The Nullarbor Crossing’ due to its limited services on this section of the road.

 

Red dirt meets the sea

 

The dark history of the Nullarbor Plain started when the British used the vastness of the land for nuclear testing in the 1950s. This resulted in the devastating removal of local First Nations families to the Yalata Mission. The first tests took place in September 1956.

In more recent years, interesting myths have emerged. In the 1970s, it was reported that a half-naked lady was sighted living with kangaroos near Eucla, known as the Nullarbor Nymph.

Many tourists flocked to the area in search, but it turned out to be a publicity stunt that’s still being used today. Nullarbor Nymph coolers and hats can be purchased from nearby stores.

Read more: 4 Best Indigenous Tours in WA’s South West

How to Get to the Nullarbor Plain

The best way to the Eyre Highway is by car, starting either in Ceduna, eight hours northwest of Adelaide, or from Norseman if travelling from the west. Some transport buses carry travellers between significant towns. However, few tour operators make the Nullarbor Plain a destination for sightseeing.

Where to Stay Along the Nullarbor Plain

The Nullarbor Plain is best experienced by camping, although some motels appear sporadically along the highway, and a few caravan parks with cabins make for other alternatives. Camping is frequently found along the road from Ceduna to Norseman, with most campgrounds found on popular camping apps, although with a keen eye, many can be sighted from the road.

 

Here’s us clifftop camping

 

The campgrounds we stayed at include:

  • Bush Camp
  • Head of the Bight
  • Wind Break Camp
  • ‘On Top of the Ridge’, Madura
  • Hazzos Camp Spot

However, one place you must plan to stay is on top of the Bunda Cliffs. Just be wary of camping here with children; while the view is amazing, the unfenced cliff could make for a stressful time!

Where to Eat on the Nullarbor Plain

Taking your own food is highly recommended, not only from a safety point of view but also because of the lack of shops on this stretch of road. Fill up with food at the Ceduna IGA, but be warned of the border crossing from SA to WA, where fresh fruit, veggies, and other food items aren’t allowed in. In saying this, there are a few places to stop for a coffee or a cheeky beer to help the isolated communities.

The roadhouse at Eucla nearing the border crossing does the best homemade sausage rolls!

 

Get ready for awesome sauso rolls and a big whale at Eucla

 

Plenty of water is also highly recommended as it’s isolated, and in the case of a breakdown, temperatures can get very hot over the summer months. Take plenty of spare water with you. You can fill up containers at a water fill-up point on the western side of Ceduna for a small fee.

Things to Do on the Nullarbor Plain

Skill Level

Beginner-Intermediate

If you’re staying on the bitumen, this itinerary can be experienced by anyone who’s a competent driver. Due to its long, isolated expanses, common sense needs to prevail, and you should only travel the distance you’re comfortable with. Avoid driving in the early morning, dusk or night due to the risk of hitting kangaroos.

If travelling off-road, the skill level increases to intermediate as 4WDriving experience is necessary. Tell someone of your plan and the next check-in time. There’s limited or no phone reception on the road and even less as you get away from the highway.

Read more: What Should You Carry In Your 4WD Rescue & Repair Kit?

 

Our 4WD allowed us to camp in some pretty speccy spots

Essential Gear for Crossing the Nullarbor Plain

  • Extra water
  • Extra food (in case of breakdown or the trip takes longer than expected)
  • First aid kit including a snake bite kit
  • Camping gear
  • Hats/sunscreen for summer
  • Cold weather gear for winter
  • UHF (not essential, but highly recommended)
  • PLB/sat phone (not essential, but at least have a UHF to talk to passing motorists if needed; remember there’s no phone reception for much of the drive)

Read more: Remember to leave no trace!

What It’s Like to Drive the Nullarbor Plain

In my opinion, this is a highly underrated road. Many travellers plan to reach Norseman as quickly as possible, missing much of the amazing countryside.

The road itself is an easy, straight drive with wide roads. It’s a good idea to carry a UHF tuned to channel 40 as it’s a busy highway route with large road trains frequenting the area. This is especially important if you travel slower than the speed limit due to towing a caravan.

 

As you can tell, we were super stoked

 

While you can get to many magical sights with a 2WD car, if you really want to experience all that the Nullarbor Plain has to offer, a 4WD is highly recommended. Fuel is always a common question due to the large expanses without glimpses of civilisation.

The solution to this is simply to fill up every chance you get. The most extensive stretch between fuel stations is around 200km. Ring ahead or follow Facebook groups to confirm if it’s a critical fuel stop.

Occasionally, the road can flood, making passing impossible. Check each state’s emergency websites for details. Phone coverage is none-to-limited along large stretches of the road.

Day 1 – Ceduna to Bush Camp

Distance: 5km
Time: 5 minutes

This was our first ‘official’ stop on the Eyre Highway. Yes, it was only 5km out of Ceduna, but after a day travelling to Ceduna and stopping for supplies with two kids in tow, we decided to ease into the drive and start the longer distances well-rested.

The Bush Camp, and many more along this journey, were sourced from popular camping apps, although with a keen eye, many can be sighted from the road.

Day 2 – Bush Camp to Nullarbor/Great Australian Bight

Distance: 314km
Time: 3 hours 25 minutes

After an early start, the first stop was a fantastic windmill museum at Penong. Never before have we seen so many well-restored windmills in such close proximity. Stop and take some photos.

 

Speaks for itself really

 

From there, head south from the Eyre Highway for 20km to view the pink lakes at Point Sinclair. Depending on the time of year, they can be bright pink thanks to the salt.

Back on the highway, our next campsite was on the spectacular cliff tops at the Head of the Bight. A 4WD is needed, and remember to air down the tyres as the corrugations get rough. Take it slow, and you’ll be rewarded with the most different campsites you’ll find.

Get the camera out and look at the edge of Australia! While this place was amazing, we kept the kids inside our caravan and watched from the safety behind windows!

 

Very pretty yet very anxiety-inducing

 

Being on the top of a cliff, it was very windy, so don’t plan on having a campfire unless you get lucky with the wind (and it’s outside of fire ban season).

Day 3 – Nullarbor/Great Australian Bight to Wind Break Camp

Distance: 167km
Time: 1 hour 55 minutes

This day was a short drive, but you can’t drive the Nullarbor Plain without stopping at the many lookouts right over the cliff tops. The views are simply spectacular!

A little further down the road, we found our next camp spot down a lovely but tight 4WD track that meandered towards the beach.

 

Sounded just as peaceful as it looks too!

 

We chose a spot that overlooked the ocean while also next to a small sand dune to block some of the breeze. This could easily be a place to stay for a few days.

Day 4 – Wind Break Camp to ‘On the Top of the Ridge’, Madura

Distance: 209km
Time: 2 hours 20 minutes

Back on the bitumen, we continued towards Norseman. Only 10km down the road, we crossed the border at Border Village. Fruit, veggies, and some other products aren’t allowed to cross with biosecurity risks, and hefty fines are issued if anything gets missed.

Check the government website for precisely what you can and can’t take. Once into WA, a stop at Eucla and a homemade sausage roll is recommended! The road then follows a small ridgeline, ironically filled with trees, until we found a camp at Madura on the Ridge.

 

Camping at Madura (you won’t find any tea here)

Day 5 – Madura to Hazzos Camp Spot

Distance: 343km
Time: 3 hours 30 minutes

The first stop on day five was Cocklebiddy, a quaint little roadhouse with all kinds of Nullarbor Plain memorabilia – plus coffee for us and chips for the kids! Not long after, we stopped at Caiguna for the must-do tourist photo before the start of the longest, straightest section of road in the Southern Hemisphere. 90 miles later, we made a slight turn, passing Balladonia and onto our last camp on the Nullarbor Plain.

Although nothing special, it was a nice large area surrounded by trees and the hum of passing road trains.

 

Day 6 – Hazzos Camp Spot to Norseman

Distance: 187km
Time: 1 hour, 55 minutes

The home stretch showcased more trees and wide open spaces, leading us to a welcoming sign at Norseman.

We stopped for three nights at the RV transit site, a wonderful incentive the council provides that allows travellers to look around the sites at Norseman. Make sure you drop into the bakery or pub and spend money to help the locals.

Tips for Driving the Nullarbor Plain

  • Campsites are everywhere along the road. No bookings are needed; just go off the reviews of popular camping apps or the general feel. All roadside campsites are free
  • Fuel is scarce compared to city driving, but with some planning, most cars won’t have an issue
  • Take plenty of water/food as supplies are limited
  • Check WA/SA emergency apps for any road closures
  • A UHF makes it easier for road trains to pass
  • Make more stops than you originally planned to admire the views and soak it all in

 

We were very good at the last tip

FAQs of the Nullarbor Plain

Can I drive on the Nullarbor Plain at night?

Due to its remote, desolate location, we recommend only driving during the day. Wildlife such as dingoes, kangaroos, and wombats can be more active at dusk, dawn, and nighttime – pretty much when they’re the hardest to see – which means driving at those times can be dangerous for both us and them.

When is the best month to travel across the Nullarbor Plain?

Autumn/winter months could be more a comfortable time to travel the Nullarbor, as summer can reach temperatures of 40°C+! If travelling in summer make sure to take extra water.

What happens if you break down on the Nullarbor Plain?

Before you leave, make sure your car is in tip-top shape to handle long drives. Mechanics are few and far between and reception is patchy. But you’ll rarely be totally in a serious spot of trouble, there are roadhouses and service stations dotted along the route which may be able to help you out – plus it’s a pretty popular route! A fellow road-tripper won’t be hard to come across.

What is the longest distance between fuel stops on the Nullarbor Plain?

The 190km+ stretch between Balladonia BP and the town of Norseman seems to be the longest distance between fuel on the Nullarbor Plain.

This piece was brought to you by a real living human who felt the wind in their hair and described their adventure in their own words. This is because we rate authenticity and the sharing of great experiences in the natural world – it’s all part of our ethos here at We Are Explorers. You can read more about it in our Editorial Standards.